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January 10, 2017

In brief: Belstaff shows autumn–winter 2017–18; Chanel previews spring ’17 advertising

Lucire staff/19.25




Belstaff

Belstaff has shown its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection in London, for both men and women. The Jolly Roger collection, inspired by World War II Royal Navy uniforms, even has vintage wax treatments on some designs to give them a worn look. Belstaff notes that the pea and duffle coats have been re-created, while the parka is based on a Belstaff design created for the British military in 1960. Creative Director Delphine Ninous said, ‘The formal naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks. This sense of temporary escapism is reflected in edgier elements such as naval tattoo designs and the Jolly Roger flag, giving a sense of rebellion and individuality.’ Tones are red, brown, blue and military green; base colours are charcoal grey, black and navy, with highlights in spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.



Belstaff

   Meanwhile, Chanel has previewed its advertising campaign for its spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter collection. The campaign itself has been overseen by Karl Lagerfeld, with contrast at its core. A pop Lolita metamorphoses into a cyberpunk; a tweed jacket has an electronic circuit board as a motif; an off-white silk and lace coat covers a black babydoll. There’s a startling modernity to the images, tying in to the Data Center Chanel catwalk show in Paris last October, which saw high-tech meet the 1990s.









Chanel

January 5, 2017

Special features to kick off Lucire’s 20th anniversary year

Lucire staff/10.31


Paula Sweet

Above: Stanley Moss heads to Punta Ala in one of his best travel pieces to date. Click here to read it.

Welcome to Lucire’s 20th anniversary year.
   Remember that if you don’t see a news update (which will come with an RSS update), you can go to the main part of the website and check out our features.
   In the last couple of weeks, we’ve had Lola Cristall’s 2017 living guide; an archive interview with Thor director Taika Waititi; one of Stanley Moss’s best travel pieces to date, on five Italian centres, and another on Flemings in London; Elyse Glickman heading to Seoul, and Jack Yan testing the Mazda 3, or Mazda Axela. We’ve also looked at a natural skin care range, Kokulu, and made our picks from the spring–summer 2017 shows from New York Fashion Week.
   And, of course, there’s our print edition: issue 36 features stories on Delikate Rayne and author–filmmaker Leslie Zemeckis, and it’s a particularly strong issue on female power. Never mind the outcome of a certain country’s election: as Bhavana Bhim writes in the opening feature in issue 36, women have been increasing their power throughout the ages.
   Expect to see more of our Golden Globes’ suites coverage with Elyse Glickman this weekend in the news section, and more fashion, beauty, travel and living features through January.

December 23, 2016

The Beauty Therapy Project treats London’s homeless women to makeovers for Christmas

Lucire staff/0.14




Emanuela Di Mulo

Top: The Beauty Therapy Project’s founder, Ebun Ali. Above: Scenes from the special day as 50 professionals gave makeovers to homeless women.

Fifty volunteers in London have pampered homeless women as part of the Beauty Therapy Project.
   A southeast London community centre was transformed into a beauty haven, with drapes, warm lighting and forest greenery, thanks to sponsors Cocospring and Popsy Mag.
   The Beauty Therapy Project raised over £3,000 in under two weeks through Crowdfunder and helped engage women to donate sanitary towels and toiletries. Donations will be distributed to homeless shelters across London.
   The women, accessed through St Mungo’s homeless shelter, were treated to makeovers from 50 professional make-up artists, hairstylists, masseuses and nail technicians. They could access a full wardrobe, including clothes, jewellery, bags and other accessories, all of which they could keep. Each woman could also keep a goody bag containing items from Pink Parcel, Motives Cosmetics, Nails Inc., Fab Little Bags, Sanitary Owl, Yogaleggs, Sugar Tables, Emily Crisps, Seascape, Joe’s Tea, Clarity Magazine, Popchips, Vitacoco, Mallow and Marsh, Pip & Nut, Organyc, Kokomelt and Cinnamon Tree Bakery. The evening concluded with a long-table banquet dinner.
   Director of the Beauty Therapy Project, Ebun Ali, said, ‘It was a surreal experience—it was humbling and very emotional for everyone involved. Seeing these women transformed was one of the most beautiful things we could have ever witnessed and we are all so honoured to have been a part of this.’
   Supporters Martha Silcott (the inventor of Fab Little Bags) and Robina Brennan (partnership manager at Smart Works charity) are looking to provide longer-term solutions.
   Other partner organizations were Heartbeat Community Centre, Everyone Active Leisure Centre, Southwark Council, the Salvation Army, Loveworks, Woosh Washrooms, Smart Works and Camberwell Market.





Emanuela Di Mulo

December 16, 2016

UK modelling agencies fined £1·5 million; Models 1, Premier and Storm to appeal decision

Lucire staff/17.08


Above: Models 1 is one of three agencies appealing a decision by the UK Competition and Markets Authority.

The UK Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) has fined five modelling agencies a total of £1,533,500 for collusion, driving prices up for modelling services. The five agencies named were FM Models, Models 1, Premier, Storm and Viva, and their trade association, the Association of Model Agents (AMA).
   Models 1, Premier and Storm have stated that they would appeal the decision, calling the CMA’s findings ‘wholly mistaken’ and that the fines were disproportionate, outside the Authority’s own guidance.
   John Horner, managing director of Models 1, said, ‘We reached our decision to appeal the CMA’s findings without hesitation. It is clear that even after a 20-month investigation the CMA has failed to understand our complex industry.’ The agencies have said that the CMA has not stated any evidence that their activities have had a discernible effect on competition in the UK.
   â€˜The CMA is penalizing modelling agencies for seeking to maintain professional standards within the industry whilst also protecting the interests of young and vulnerable people,’ added Horner. ‘They are not improving the competitive environment but are damaging a small but important UK industry which is recognized as successful internationally.’
   The three agencies said their activities protected models’ interests and ensured a sustainable market that benefited consumers, the economy and society.
   In fact, they argue that competition is intense, with 10,000 models and 58 modelling agencies operating in the UK, and buyer power can be far stronger than that of agencies. They also point to falling revenue from modelling fees, which have dropped by 10 per cent since 2011.
   The CMA alleges that the price-fixing took place between April 2013 and March 2015 at the minimum, over a variety of assignments, from fashion magazine shoots to advertising campaigns. However, the services of top models were not affected by the collusion. This infringed the Competition Act 1998, which deems such anticompetitive behaviour illegal.
   â€˜The parties regularly and systematically exchanged information and discussed prices in the context of negotiations with particular customers. In some cases, the agencies agreed to fix minimum prices or agreed a common approach to pricing,’ said the CMA in a release. The CMA says that the AMA issued email circulars that pressured members to resist prices that were too low.
   The agencies appealing the decision say that the only communication that took place between them dealt with usage and publication rights, not the prices of modelling assignments. Warnings were issued about inappropriate contract terms over image rights, which have become a major issue since online retailing.
   The fines for each agency were: FM Models, £251,000; Models 1, £394,000; Premier, £150,000; Storm, £491,000; and Viva, £245,000. The AMA was fined £2,500.
   Penalties have been announced in France and Italy after investigations into the modelling services’ sector there.
   Yasmin Le Bon, Hannah Cassidy and former British Fashion Council COO Simon Ward have publicly defended the agencies.

December 10, 2016

Supermodel Kate Moss stars in official video for ‘The Wonder of You’, from second Elvis Presley–RPO album

Lucire staff/0.45

Sony’s The Wonder of You by Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, a new album featuring 15 tracks from the King of Rock ’n’ Roll, has a high-profile promoter in the form of supermodel Kate Moss.
   Moss appears in the official video for ‘The Wonder of You’, where she appears in a custom-made black leather suit recalling Presley’s 1968 one in his NBC TV special (later referred to as the Comeback Special), as well as several other outfits inspired by his looks.
   She lip-syncs part of the track in the black-and-white video, which appeared on Presley’s official Vevo channel from Friday, and is embedded below. It is the first in a series to promote the album.
   The video was filmed at Abbey Road Studios, where the new album was recorded. Moxie Pictures’ Vaughan Arnell came up with the concept, after he noticed there was a resemblance between classic Presley images and some of Moss’s fashion shots.
   The new album, produced by Don Reedman and Nick Patrick, is a follow-up to last year’s If I Can Dream: Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, which sold one million units and débuted at number one on the UK album charts. Presley became the biggest solo artist in UK music history with the début of that album, overtaking Madonna.
   A bonus track on The Wonder of You by Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra sees Presley in a duet of ‘Just Pretend’ with German songstress Hélène Fischer. Other tracks on the album are ‘A Big Hunk o’ Love’, ‘I’ve Got a Thing About You Baby’, ‘Suspicious Minds’, ‘Don’t’, ‘I Just Can’t Help Believin”, ‘Just Pretend’, ‘Love Letters’, ‘Amazing Grace’, ‘Starting Today’, ‘Kentucky Rain’, ‘Memories’, ‘Let It Be Me’, ‘Always on My Mind’, and, of course, ‘The Wonder of You’.

December 5, 2016

Video: British Fashion Awards 2016: Gigi Hadid is model of the year, Simone Rocha and Craig Green scoop top designer honours

Cecilia Xu/23.51




British Fashion Council

In a room of 4,000 outstanding individuals, designers, supermodels and stars, the 2016 British Fashion Awards took place in London tonight. With many renowned and iconic designers such as Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Donatella Versace present, as well as the new and upcoming, the show sure was a varietal and multifarious mix.
   Of the top awards of the night, Craig Green won the British Menswear Designer Award, while Simone Rocha won the British Womenswear Designer Award, and Alexander McQueen won the dominant British Brand of the Year award.
   David Beckham presented the Outstanding Achievement Award to Ralph Lauren, a celebratory award to the individual for their significant contribution to the global fashion industry. Gigi Hadid scooped her sister Bella and best friend Kendall Jenner in the International Model of the Year Award, a defining and prestigious award so it was no surprise to see emotions on stage as she accepted the honour.
   Jaden and Willow Smith were surprised with the New Fashion Icon award; with no nomination prior, the award comes as a revelation on the night.
   My personal adoration this year was for Gucci, so it came as no surprise to see Alessandro Michele take home the Accessories’ Designer of the Year award. With such a rich and flamboyant collection for Gucci in 2016, this prestige was well deserved, don’t we all agree? Gucci, all in all, has done extremely well this year as a wrap, as the brand sweeps away two awards, with Marco Bizzarri taking the International Business Leader award.
   Vêtements, an urban and streetwear brand that has been taking Instagram by storm, and the likes of the youth especially in Asia this year, won the award for International Urban Luxury Brand.
   Britain’s Emerging Talent Award was taken by Molly Goddard, Franca Sozzani won the Swarovski Award for Positive Change, Bruce Weber, as announced earlier, was honoured with the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and the International Ready-to-Wear Designer was taken by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. And last but not least, 100 Years of British Vogue took the Special Recognition Award of 2016.
   VIPs attending included David Gandy, Molly Goddard, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Bailey, MBE, Nicole Scherzinger, Derek Blasberg, Adwoa Aboah, David and Victoria Beckham, Jack Whitehall, Karlie Kloss, Lily Donaldson, Vivienne Westwood, Nadja Swarovski, Abbey Clancy, Jourdan Dunn, Olivia Palermo, Eva Herzigová, Winnie Harlow, Anya Hindmarch, Giovanna Engelbert, Laura Bailey, Julien Macdonald, Jordan Kale Barrett, Hamish Bowles, and Lady Gaga. The British Fashion Council’s Dame Natalie Massenet and Caroline Rush looked like stars as they walked the red carpet.—Cecilia Xu








British Fashion Council

Red carpet

Molly Goddard, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Bailey, MBE

Dame Natalie Massenet, Nadia Swarovski, Caroline Rush, CBE

Lady Gaga

Simone Rocha, Derek Blasberg, Adwoa Aboah

Eva Herzigová, Jack Whitehall, Amber Valletta, Winnie Harlow

Anya Hindmarch, Giovanna Engelbert, Laura Bailey

Julien Macdonald, Nicole Scherzinger, Jordan Kale Barrett, Hamish Bowles

Craig Green

100 Years of British Vogue

Simone Rocha

Franca Sozzani

Ralph Lauren

Molly Goddard

Bruce Weber

Vêtements

Marco Bizzarri

Alessandro Michele

Alexander McQueen

Demna Gvasalia

Jean Paul Gaultier reports for Swarovski

November 18, 2016

Rock, Gold and Romance with the Body Shop

Cecilia Xu/0.17




Above: Our pick among the Body Shop’s Jungle Bell Rocks make-up: the Go for Gold look.

The Body Shop never fails to conjure an exciting collection suitable for the festive season. This time, with make-up to amp up your holiday and party spirit, the Body Shop brings you Jungle Bell Rocks, a wild-for-Christmas colour campaign featuring three vibrant make-up collections: Rock the Night, Go for Gold, and a True Romance. Each with their own personality and character in differing colour combos, there will sure be one that fits your party mood.
   These limited-edition looks are carefully crafted to each include nail polish, shimmering eye colour sticks, an eye-shadow quad and the on-trend matte liquid lipstick. Get a completely different look with each set, or mix and match to create your own. My personal favourite is the Go for Gold, a neutral brown-gold eye with a matte, dark plum lip that has been so popular this year. This may be best for the party.
   A True Romance, as the name suggests, is perfect for the evening date: a flirty amethyst-plum eye-shadow palette with light sugar-sweet lips. Rock the Night is the statement look for a girl’s night out: with fierce gal-about-town matching red nails and lips, topped off with gleaming black and metallic eyes, this look sure speaks of a lively night out in loud celebration.
   The Gold Leaf nail polish in the Gold collection is great and extremely appealing, while the colours in the Rock the Night shadow palette have the most dramatic and daring flair, not for the faint-hearted. The début release of their Matte Liquid Lipstick is a great success I believe—the colours are fabulous and fun, and made to last as long as your night.
   Eye quads (with Community Trade sesame and babassu oils) retail at NZ$49·95; the matte lip liquid at NZ$19·95; eye colour sticks (with Community Trade babassu oil and beeswax) at NZ$25·95; and the Colour Crush matte lipsticks (with Community Trade beeswax, Brazil nut, argan oil and organic coconut oil) at NZ$29·95. The products are 100 per cent vegetarian, with no gluten, carmine, petrolatum or mineral oil.—Cecilia Xu

November 17, 2016

Sustainability in brief: Living Nature’s lipstick gift packs; Ãœmran Aysan introduces fashion label

Lucire staff/11.42



Living Nature’s Colour Me Beautiful lipstick gift packs have become a permanent line, featuring three complementary, certified-natural, organic lipsticks in each pack. They are presented in three themes: Colour Me Natural, Colour Me Romantic, and Colour Me Vibrant.
   Living Nature points out that in a lifetime, we can ingest up to 1·7 kg of lipstick, hence choosing ones with natural ingredients is vital. Living Nature’s lipsticks feature coconut extracts, vitamin E, and nourishing waxes, moisturizing the lips. They are allergen-free, have no synthetic chemicals or preservatives, and are safe for use during pregnancy. Retail price is NZ$75, and they are available through Living Nature’s website.
   Meanwhile, Ægean-raised, London-based designer Ãœmran Aysan is contributing to sustainability in fashion.
   As a counter to fast fashion, and with a desire to reintroduce craftsmanship and a respect for local and ethical sourcing, Aysan has launched her eponymous label, featuring pieces for resort 2017 using exquisite, natural fabrics. Look closer and you’ll see delicate needle-craft and other details from local artisans. Positive Luxury has deemed Ãœmran Aysan a ‘Brand to Trust’ for her commitment to sustainability and her support of local communities.

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