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September 9, 2014

Jaguar launches XE in London, with David Gandy, Stella McCartney, Eva Herzigova, Laura Whitmore

Lucire staff/1.28

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Jaguar has launched its most important car in years with the brand-new XE, a saloon that sees the Indian-owned company tackle a segment dominated by the BMW 3er and Audi A4. The XE also marks a new generation of Jaguars powered by the company’s new series of Ingenium engines, and features a first-in-segment aluminium-intensive monocoque structure for lightness and strength.
   Jaguar Land Rover, which has seen its profits soar in recent years, spared no expense with the XE’s launch in London, bringing celebrities including Stella McCartney, David Gandy, Eva Herzigova, Sir Stirling Moss, JosĂ© Mourinho, Laura Whitmore, Damian Lewis, Ruben Cortada, David Blakeley, Sam Riley, Sienna Guillory, Steve Redgrave, Brian Johnson and Gary Lineker together at an event that saw Emeli SandĂ©, the Kaiser Chiefs, Eliza Doolittle, the Royal Ballet, Max Milner (The Voice), and members of the London Philharmonic Orchestra perform, and John Hannah narrating.
   While many saw the helicopter delivery of the red XE into London on Monday, Jaguar formally kicked off the launch event that evening at Earls Court with its VIP audience, with the performances evoking models from the company’s past, including the SS100 of 1935.
   SandĂ© composed a ‘Feels Like’ track for the event that had been inspired by the public via social media and the hashtag #FeelXE. The song received its premiĂšre live on a floating stage on the Thames in a 45-minute set later in the evening, with the London Eye and County Hall as a backdrop.
   The performance was complemented with a projection-mapping show on London’s County Hall, showing the public’s messages that inspired the composition. Red flares lit up the London skyline in red to match the hero colour of the new car.
   McCartney will reveal her Parisian Feel XE experience later this month, while Idris Elba will reveal his Feel XE project afterwards.
   Earlier in the day, employees at Jaguar’s Solihull plant—where 1,700 jobs are expected to be created—formed an XE shape as the Red Arrows flew past, and the car was airlifted by helicopter toward London. It was placed on a high-speed landing craft on the Thames to Chelsea Harbour.
   In another nod to its past, Jaguar then had the new XE escorted by two 1960s Mk II police cars from Battersea Bridge to Earls Court.
   The “delivery” was intentional: Jaguar wanted to signal that the XE is the spiritual successor to the Mk II, still considered by many fans to be the quintessential Jaguar close-coupled sporting saloon, and the car that arguably pioneered the segment in which the new model now competes.
   One car from Jaguar’s past that was not mentioned was the X-type, the company’s turn-of-the-century attempt to tap into the compact executive market. Younger buyers rejected that model partly because of its unadventurous styling, overseen by Jaguar’s then-parent company Ford. The X-type was also hampered by its front-wheel-drive transmission on cheaper models, something that Jaguar has avoided repeating by giving the XE rear-wheel drive. It is also the most aerodynamic Jaguar made, with a drag coefficient of 0,26.
   The cab-backward fastback look of the XE takes styling themes established by the XJ and XF, and features a short front overhang and a low driving position. The car looks more aggressive and taut than the larger models, which should appeal to buyers in the segment.
   â€˜Our mission was to create an exciting and dynamic design clearly reflecting the XE’s positioning as a serious driver’s car. The cab-rearward proportions and tight packaging achieve that and give the XE the appearance of movement even when it’s standing still. It bears a strong family resemblance to the F-type and will stand apart in the crowd,’ says Jaguar’s director of design, Ian Callum.
   The aluminium components also mean more effective recycling, and in a world first for cars, Jaguar has specified RC5754, an aluminium alloy made from recycled material.
   The high-tech features extend to Jaguar’s new electric power steering, which is more efficient than a traditional hydraulic system, and what the company calls All Surface Progress Control (ASPC), which works as a low-speed cruise control that can control the brake system and powertrain for the best traction in slippery conditions. The XE also features a laser head-up display, nearly a third lighter than existing systems. Jaguar also dĂ©buts a new InControl infotainment system, which is claimed to be more intuitive, especially with a pioneering plain-speech voice control. The car is also a wifi hotspot for internet-enabled devices, and both Apple Iphone and Android users can control various functions remotely.
   Full details of the XE range will be released at the Salon de Paris on October 2. The range will be topped by a supercharged V6 delivering 340 PS, while the two-litre Ingenium diesel is claimed to deliver 75 mpg (Imperial) with carbon dioxide emissions of 99 g/km. Prices are set to begin at ÂŁ27,000.















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June 30, 2014

BeyoncĂ© and Jay Z don custom-made Givenchy outïŹts for On the Run tour

Lucire staff/23.23

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Beyoncé wears costumes by Givenchy haute couture by Riccardo Tisci while her husband Jay Z wears Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci in their On the Run tour.
   The tour kicked off on June 25 at Sun Life Stadium, Miami Gardens, Fla. BeyoncĂ© wears three costumes especially designed for her by Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci.
   BeyoncĂ© wears a black leather short jumpsuit, with the embroidered inscription ‘BBB 17’, with chunky zipper details and hand-embroidered bra and panties as her first Givenchy haute couture outfit.
   Her second outfit, ‘Single Ladies’, is a reinterpretation of her leotard, in black stretch tulle embroidered with paillettes, 3-D stones and crystals, and a fishnet-on-skin tulle centre part.
   Her third outfit, for the finalĂ© with Jay Z, is a black vinyl and velvet bodysuit with a fishnet catsuit underneath, and a 5 m long American flag shirt-skirt in black and white taffetas with embroidered stars.
   She wears custom-made nappa and patent leather thigh-high boots with each design.
   Jay Z wears a custom-made tuxedo in black grain-de-poudre with a black and white American flag print T-shirt from the upcoming Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci spring–summer 2015 menswear collection, in the opening number (‘03 Bonnie & Clyde’).
   The On the Run: BeyoncĂ© and Jay Z tour will travel through the US before heading to Europe in mid-September, at the Stade de France in Paris on September 12 and 13.
   The tour had already made headlines for showing off hitherto unseen footage from their wedding and of daughter Blue Ivy Carter.
   According to Forbes, the couple was the highest-paid in 2013, with an estimated income of US$95 million.







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June 28, 2014

Brooks Brothers taps Zac Posen for its women’s collection

Lucire staff/1.40

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Steven Pan

Leading US designer Zac Posen, whom Lucire first interviewed not long after he started in the business, has been appointed creative director for Brooks Brothers’ women’s collection and accessories.
   The company says that Posen will direct the design and merchant teams, and have input on brand development for its women’s label.
   â€˜We are thrilled to have Zac join us as creative director of our women’s collection,’ said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and CEO of Brooks Brothers in a release. ‘He is one of the most talented and influential American designers working today.’ Del Vecchio pointed out that Posen understood that the brand needed to modernize its range.
   Posen said, ‘I am truly honored and excited to be embarking on this incredible opportunity to take the Brooks Brothers women’s brand into the future while respecting its deep, rich American heritage as an institutional company.’
   Posen’s first women’s collection will dĂ©but in spring 2016.
   Currently, Posen’s labels include Zac Posen, ZAC Zac Posen and Z Spoke Zac Posen, covering clothing and accessories, with Truly Zac Posen his bridal label in association with David’s Bridal. His eyewear line, in partnership with Kenmark Optical, retails from September. He also judges Project Runway with Heidi Klum and Nina Garcia.
   It is expected that Posen will remain with his own labels while working with Brooks Brothers.
   Brooks Brothers is the US’s longest established apparel brand, and began selling womenswear in 1874. Presently, women’s fashion only represents 20 per cent of its sales.
   Thom Browne will continue to design the Black Fleece line for men and women.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New York
April 14, 2014

Video interview: Alexander Wang on his collaboration with H&M, at the Coachella Music Festival

Lucire staff/22.39

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Above H&M’s Margareta van den Bosch and New York designer Alexander Wang.

Alexander Wang (王性仁) is the next designer to collaborate with Hennes & Mauritz, with the announcement made on Saturday at the Coachella Music Festival in Palm Springs, Calif. Online above is video footage from the event, featuring interviews with Wang, Kate Bosworth and Emmy Rossum, along with highlights from the party.
   Wang is the first American to collaborate with H&M in a series that began in 2004, and has seen team-ups with Karl Lagerfeld, Comme Des Garçons, Sonia Rykiel, Roberto Cavalli. Stella McCartney, and Viktor & Rolf. The collaboration will be called Alexander Wang × H&M.
   A beaming Wang says, ‘It’s such an honour. H&M is a brand with so much creativity and they’ve done something so different with these collaborations, and I am so excited to be a part of it with the 10th year anniversary and also be the first American brand that they have collaborated with. It’s really exciting and we have a lot of stuff that’s going to be new for the collaboration that I’m just really excited to reveal in November.’
   In his release, he notes, ‘I am honoured to be a part of H&M’s designer collaborations. The work with their team is an exciting, fun process. They are very open to push boundaries and to set a platform for creativity. This will be a great way for a wider audience to experience elements of the Alexander Wang brand and lifestyle.’
   Bosworth says, ‘I’m so excited for Alex. I’ve known him for such a long time and been an admirer for just as long, and I just live seeing all the success at the moment. H&M is such an accessible label and there is something so inspirational obviously about Alex, and I’m really excited to see what he brings to the brand.’
   Rossum adds, ‘Because I love Alex and I’ve been waiting for so so long for him to ask me to do anything 
 I was happy that I could do something in advance so I could finally wear something of his. I think it’s awesome [he] is doing something for H&M and making it more accessible.’
   Wang’s label was launched in the 2007 and known for its contrasts. The Alexander Wang × H&M collection will have womenswear and menswear, and the Swedish retailer says he will ‘propose a new take on the lifestyle product offering that goes beyond fashion.’
   Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s creative adviser, says, ‘Alexander Wang is one of the most important voices in fashion today. He understands exactly what people want to wear and does it with an energy and passion that’s infectious. It feels incredible to be collaborating with him this year.’
   The collection will be available in 250 H&M stores worldwide and online, from November 6.

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March 17, 2014

Designer L’Wren Scott, 49, found hanged in apartment—death treated as suicide

Lucire staff/18.03

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Above Mick Jagger and L’Wren Scott pictured last November.

Fashion designer L’Wren Scott, 49, has been found dead in her Manhattan apartment, with her death being treated as suicide by New York police.
   Scott was found hanged by her assistant, whom she had texted earlier in the day to go to the apartment, at 10 a.m. EDT.
   No suicide note was found, according to police, whose investigations continue.
   Her company was in millions of pounds of debt. The firm, LS Fashion Ltd., had a loss of ÂŁ3·5 million, and it had been run at a loss for several years before. Some ÂŁ4·6 million was owed to creditors, with ÂŁ1 million due within a year. LS Fashion Ltd. had ÂŁ1·1 million of assets.
   Scott’s autumn–winter 2014–15 show at London Fashion Week had been cancelled. Late last year, Scott launched a line in collaboration with Banana Republic.
   She was born Luanna Bambrough in Utah. Having reached 6 ft in height by age 12, she learned to make her own clothes as she struggled to find anything that fitted her. She modelled in Paris before heading to Los Angeles to become a stylist and costume designer. Her label started in 2006.
   Her designs were a favourite of this publication, and US First Lady Michelle Obama, and celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Amy Adams, PenĂ©lope Cruz and Christina Hendricks were among her fans.
   A spokesman for the British Fashion Council said, ‘We are deeply saddened at the news of L’Wren Scott’s tragic death.
   â€˜She was an iconic woman who inspired so many, and a designer whose contributions to the fashion industry were both extraordinary and unique.
   â€˜She will leave behind an exceptional legacy, however we are so incredibly proud to have had her in our midst.’
   She was the long-term girlfriend of the Rolling Stones’ Sir Mick Jagger. They had been together for nearly 13 years and Jagger had spoken about her fashion collections in the past.
   Jagger had arrived in Australia for the Rolling Stones’ tour there, which may be cancelled.
   Bianca Jagger, Sir Mick’s ex-wife, led tributes, saying, ‘Heartbroken to learn of the loss of the lovely and talented L’Wren Scott. My thoughts and prayers are with her family. May she rest in peace.’
   Supermodel Naomi Campbell wrote on WhoSay: ‘I am deeply shocked and devastated by the news. L’Wren was someone I knew since I was 17. We travelled the world together many times. L’Wren was someone I always loved. She was the epitome of elegance and femininity yet still had a girlish quality. I will miss her honesty and I will miss her friendship. My heart goes out to Mick and all who loved her and were loved by her. May she Rest in Peace.’
   Actress Nicole Kidman issued a statement, reading, ‘Nicole and L’Wren were close friends for 25 years. She is heartbroken and in shock right now, and unable to say anything.’

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February 3, 2014

Horsing around with Sue Wong for New Year in LA

Elyse Glickman/4.31

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Elyse Glickman

Sue Wong not only has it all, but can certainly share her good fortune with great gusto. She usually opens the Cedars, her 1920s-era Hollywood mansion, to serve as a backdrop for informal fashion shows. However, on this auspicious New Year’s Eve, her home (which itself had many lives, from the home of early film director Marcel Tourneur and wife Norma Talmadge, to a set for the movie Sunset Boulevard, to rock-and-roll haven for Jimi Hendrix, Dennis Hopper and other ’60s figures) was a stage for her to channel Coco Chanel and Auntie Mame (the 1958 version with Rosalind Russell), put out a fine banquet (because life is, after all, a banquet), serve cocktails and put on a show featuring traditional Chinese performances, pop music, opera and folk music.
   Sue Wong was the consummate master of ceremonies, and her guests were a colourful assortment of artists, actors, writers, socialites and musicians. It was a collection of people Mame Dennis herself would be proud of.
   While LA Fashion Week is a few weeks off, and we’re sure fashion and lifestyle empress Sue Wong has another great collection ahead of her for fall–winter 2014–15, a few hours in her stunning, jewel-toned home is one of the best representations of Old and New Hollywood coming together visually.
   Celebrities on hand included Jane Seymour, Miss Hong Kong 2014 Erin Tjoe, Carly Craig, K. D. Aubert, Kimberly Kates, legendary LA publicist Ed Lozzi, Joyce Giraud and Michael Ohoven.—Elyse Glickman, US West Coast Editor




Elyse Glickman

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January 8, 2014

YSL, ïŹrst of two bio-pics on Yves Saint Laurent, opens today amid controversy

Lucire staff/7.48

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Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

Top Pierre Niney as Yves Saint Laurent and Guillaume Gallienne as Pierre Bergé in YSL. Above Pierre Niney as Yves Saint Laurent and Charlotte Le Bon as Victoire Doutreleau.

The first of two bio-pics on fashion design legend Yves Saint Laurent opens today in France.
   YSL, directed by Jalil Lespert, stars Pierre Niney, whose make-up is so convincing that Saint Laurent’s last surviving dog reportedly mistook him for his master. Saint Laurent’s former partner and business manager, Pierre BergĂ©, has also called Niney’s performance convincing.
   Women’s Wear Daily noted that Niney studied footage of Saint Laurent and took sewing and drawing classes to prepare for his role.
   BergĂ© has endorsed Lespert’s film, which covers the period between 1957 and 1976, and provided the producers with access to the Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent foundation archive.
   Even from the trailer, there is a sense of visual verisimilitude, and the film has already received acclaim from Paris Match and Elle.
   BergĂ© has said, ‘The film does not take sides, but tells the truth. All men have a dark and a light side. My life with Yves Saint Laurent was not a fairy tale, but I would not change anything.’
   However, critics of Lespert’s film claim that it glosses over Saint Laurent’s genius. Thomas Bidegain, scriptwriter for the rival bio-pic, told The Daily Telegraph that YSL was ‘simply recounted by BergĂ©, like Mozart recounted by Salieri.’
   One can see the origins of Bidegain’s claim. In a positive review in L’Express, Mathilde Laurelli notes that YSL recounts a ‘pygmalion du couturier,’ and that it could be more objective.
   However, she and other reviewers tended to praise the film for exploring Saint Laurent’s inner demons, and the clothes from the archive.
   The rival film, which also claims “official” status, has the blessing of François Pinault, the owner of the Yves Saint Laurent brand. Saint Laurent, to be released in May, is directed by Bertrand Bonello, and stars Gaspard Ulliel as the designer. LĂ©a Seydoux plays Loulou de la Falaise and JĂ©rĂ©mie Renier portrays BergĂ©.
   Yves Saint Laurent started at Dior in the mid-1950s and succeeded the designer on his death in 1957. He was drafted in 1960 to fight in the Algerian War of Independence. On his return, BergĂ©, an art dealer who had met Saint Laurent while he was in a military hospital, tried to have Saint Laurent reinstated at Dior, but the house refused. They successfully sued for breach of contract. They went on to start the Yves Saint Laurent label along with some of the Dior staff. Saint Laurent was appointed Chevalier de la LĂ©gion d’honneur in 1985. The following year, the company took control of its fragrance business and floated on the stock exchange. In December 2007, President Nicolas Sarkozy appointed Saint Laurent OfïŹcier of the LĂ©gion d’honneur. Saint Laurent died in 2008.


Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

Top Charlotte Le Bon plays Victoire, Dior’s muse, later at Saint Laurent. Above Yves Saint Laurent and Victoire Doutreleau in 1962.







Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

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January 7, 2014

Original 1960s Karl Lagerfeld sketches for Tiziani to be auctioned

Lucire staff/12.55

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Above Lots 173 and 174: an original Karl Lagerfeld sketch, and the corresponding Tiziani coral gown with feathered cape.

Fashion sketchbooks and drawings by Karl Lagerfeld will be auctioned on January 11 by Palm Beach Modern Auctions in West Palm Beach, Fla.
   The drawings were done for Tiziani, which was set up by American designer Evan ‘Buddy’ Richards in Roma in 1963, catering to celebrities and royalty. Lagerfeld freelanced for the house and the drawings illustrate how haute couture made the leap to designer ready-to-wear.
   Rico Baca, auctioneer at Palm Beach Modern Auctions, notes that the collection is unique. Even though Lagerfeld was in the habit of throwing out old work, Richards meticulously held on to the sketches produced for him by the young designer. The collection was maintained in full by subsequent estates.
   He also says that the drawings showed the shift from haute couture to prĂȘt-Ă -porter: ‘Evan Richards and his brilliant designer Karl Lagerfeld were right at the forefront. Richards had grown weary of his couture designs being purchased, taken apart and copied line for line by New York department stores. Eventually he thought, “Why shouldn’t we be the ones selling our designs as ready-to-wear?” That was the beginning of it all.’
   Baca says, ‘It contains Lagerfeld sketchbooks—some showing entire ready-to-wear lines for a season—hundreds of individual sketches by Lagerfeld and other Tiziani designers, hundreds of photos of couture shows, and several signed photos and personal notes from Elizabeth Taylor to Tiziani.’
   Tiziani designed for Princess Marcella Borghese, Doris Duke and Gina Lollobrigida, and was a favourite of Elizabeth Taylor. Tiziani designed for Taylor for several films, and some of the drawings are marked for ‘Elizabeth Taylor Burton’.
   The auction includes a Tiziani coral gown with feathered cape, matched to Lagerfeld’s original pre-production sketch. There are also four other pieces of Tiziani couture—three dresses and a beaded top—plus four Mary McFadden couture garments and a mod-style Kiki Hart pantsuit, according to the auction house.
   The 400-lot archive will be auctioned on January 11 at 12 p.m. EST, at 417 Bunker Road, West Palm Beach, Fla. 33405. Internet bids will be taken via LiveAuctioneers.com. The online catalogue can be viewed at LiveAuctioneers.com. A cocktail party preview benefiting the Ann Norton Sculpture Gardens will be held at Palm Beach Modern Auctions on January 9 at 5 p.m.


Above Lots 95 and 3: original sketches by Karl Lagerfeld for Tiziani. The one on the right bears a note that it is for ‘Elizabeth Taylor Burton’.

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