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December 10, 2014

News in brief: Chanel’s Paris–Salzburg collection; Lady Gaga, Eva Longoria in NYC; Anja Rubik launches perfume

Lucire staff/10.59

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Karl Lagerfeld has unveiled the 13th Chanel MĂ©tiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria, recognizing its historical connection with Gabrielle Chanel (she got the inspiration for the Chanel jacket there, at the Hotel Schloss Mittersill, then owned by Baron Hubert von Pantz, with whom she had a fling). Lagerfeld discusses his collection in the video clip below, which showcases the Paris–Salzburg collection, featuring Cara Delevingne, who not only closed the show, but is the face of the collection itself.
   The presentation, at the Leopoldskron chĂąteau, showcased the fine work of the feather-workers, milliners, tuckers and bootmakers. Lagerfeld took inspiration from traditional Austrian clothing, revisiting the dirndls and lederhosen, using loden, tweed, felt, leather and satin cashmere mix, taffeta and lace. Evening dresses featured pin-tucked fronts, frills, pleats and voluminous sleeves.
   â€˜You can take inspiration from the apron, from the sleeves, from all the little details, but you have to forget it all and we do it in a new way,’ said Lagerfeld. ‘The star of Salzburg is about the jacket, but what I like is the craftsmanship, the embroidery with all the feathers. There is an unbelievable craftsmanship in all those clothes: most of the embroidery includes stones and many feathers, it’s like fur, it’s like flying fur. If you look at them closely, it’s quite unbelievable; when you see them or you touch them. So I tried, with beautiful fake pearls, to make interesting pearl jewellery that looks like embroidery. It’s the updated version of what I think it should be, could be, and had to be today.’
   In New York celebrity sightings, Lady Gaga has been spotted wearing the Blake wide-brim hat in oyster felt with pearl trim from Eugenia Kim’s fall 2014 collection last week, while Eva Longoria wore a Ralph & Russo spring–summer 2014 white silk crĂȘpe cap sleeve embellished jacket with structured peplum, pencil skirt and black alligator belt to the ninth annual L’OrĂ©al Women of Worth event.
   L’OrĂ©al Paris notes that Longoria’s look uses True Match liquid foundation in C2 Rose Vanilla, the Volume Million Lashes Excess in Extra Black, Color Riche Le Kajal in 501 Oriental Black, the Super Liner Brow Artist Plumper in medium to dark, and the Elnett Volume Excess hairspray. Blake Lively, very much this year’s L’OrĂ©al Paris celebrity with all the attention she garnered at Cannes, was also at Women of Worth, her look accomplished with True Match in N3 Creamy Beige, the Glam Bronze Powder Duo in 101 Blonde, the Flash Lash Butterfly in Intenza, Txt Wave Creating Spray, and the Nude Rose Color Riche La Palette.

   Polish model Anja Rubik, 31, meanwhile, has released her new perfume, Original. At Colette in Paris, she discusses some of her beauty tips from her career, including using eyelash curlers and moisturizing your skin. Rubik also reveals that Brigitte Bardot is her ‘ultimate beauty’, and rates Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patty Smyth highly.
   The perfume scents are those that have followed her over the years, namely white lilies and green tea, while the black-and-white imagery was inspired by her love of black-and-white photography and the work of Robert Mapplethorpe.
   Carrera y Carrera is going from strength to strength: the Madrid-based luxury jewellery brand has opened a boutique in Macau, as a first beach-head into China. Manuel Carrera, a fourth-generation descendant of the Carrera family who founded the brand, was on hand with CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
   Finally, in the main part of our site, travel editor Stanley Moss fits museums and great food into 48 hours in Torino, while publisher Jack Yan tests the BMW X1 Sdrive18d—readers might like the title.


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December 7, 2014

Paris editor’s diary: events with Ji Wenbo, Pandora and Wacoal

Lola Cristall/12.43

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The FĂ©dĂ©ration française de la couture, du prĂȘt-Ă -porter des couturiers et des crĂ©ateurs de mode, l’Institut français de la mode, the China Garment Association and the China Fashion Association came together to celebrate half a century of unity. Following the China–France fashion summit, Ji Wenbo (left) presented his most recent collection at the prestigious HĂŽtel d’Evreux at la Place VendĂŽme. Ji, who is also director of the China Fashion Designers’ Association of Fashion and Art Committee, is known as the ‘king of fashion’ in China. He is head designer of Li Lang, a famous menswear brand. His outlook on the western fashion world incorporates a stunning, vivacious colour palette and original, effervescent styles. Imperial and bold shades came to life on the green and gold catwalk, with delicate prints on bold fabric.
   Pandora and brand ambassador Kellie Pickler, along with lifestyle expert Tai Beauchamp, hosted the Hearts of Today Awards at the Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills. Pandora is more than just a fine jewellery company: it also serves to support good causes. The concept was launched in July and serves to honour and celebrate females who work to improve the lives of women and children. The eight chosen honorees, out of 700 nominations, are each provided with $25,000 that would help them continue to reach their desired goal in ameliorating lives.
   Wacoal Europe invited guests to an intimate evening at the Salon Paul Ricard. The venue featured a number of Wacoal collections, from vibrant shades to neutral colours that attracted onlookers as they touched, felt and admired. Premier by Dead Sea, a brand founded in 1990 specializing in body, skin and hair rejuvenation for men and women, presented guests with natural products that revitalize hands and nails. Lillet featured their distinctive, delicate and sweet French aperitif wines, reviving one’s taste buds. In order to indulge in light-tasting guilty pleasures, Yohan Kim—once JoĂ«l Robuchon’s pastry chef—introduced a number of delicate French pastries from financiers with green tea to madeleine and pĂąte de fruits, exploding with bursts of fruity delight. Throughout the evening, numerous illustrations by Eudoxie were projected on the wall for the audience to enjoy.—Lola Cristall, Paris editor


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December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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December 1, 2014

Video from British Fashion Awards 2014: Erdem, J. W. Anderson take top honours; Emma Watson tops vote

Lucire staff/23.42

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Dan Sims

Above, from top Poppy Delevingne, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Cara Delevingne, Model of the Year. Victoria Beckham, winning Brand of the Year. Emma Watson, who won the British Style Award.

Before an audience of 2,070 at the London Coliseum, the 2014 British Fashion Awards have seen Erdem and J. W. Anderson take out the coveted prizes of Womenswear Designer of the Year and Menswear Designer of the Year respectively. Anya Hindmarch was named the Accessories’ Designer of the Year.
   Actress Michelle Dockery, racing driver Lewis Hamilton, and models KarolĂ­na KurkovĂĄ and Eva HerzigovĂĄ, presented the much-awaited top three awards of the night.
   Actress Emma Watson won the British Style Award in a public vote (based on 3,000 participants), as the individual who best embodies the spirit of British fashion and is an international ambassador for London as a fashion capital. Harry Styles presented her award.
   Celebrity presenters on the night included Kylie Minogue, Naomie Harris, Anna Kendrick and Jeremy Irvine, Liya Kebede, John Galliano, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Naomi Campbell, Suzy Menkes, OBE, Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls and Poppy Delevingne, Kate Moss, and Rita Ora and Nick Grimshaw.
   Victoria Beckham was named the best brand, recognizing her work in distribution, retail, campaigns and ecommerce.
   Cara Delevingne became the Model of the Year, while the Alexander McQueen brand took home the Red Carpet Designer award for creating global awareness of its designs in the media. Sarah Burton collected the award for the Alexander McQueen label from supermodel Moss.
   Preen was the awarded Establishment Designer of the Year with her work in global retail and ecommerce, while Simone Rocha was named the New Establishment Designer, for her impact on the industry.
   Of the awards named earlier, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, OBE, was given the Outstanding Achievement Award for her contribution to the industry. W fashion and style director Edward Enninful won the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and Chris Moore won the Special Recognition Award for his six-decade-long career and contribution to the industry.
   Names to look out for are Marques’Almeida, which won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award, Craig Green, the Emerging Menswear Designer winner, and Prism, the Emerging Accessory Designer winner.
   Nicolas GhesquiĂšre, for Louis Vuitton, was recognized as the non-British designer who helped shape the fashion industry in the past year both in the UK and internationally, with the International Designer award.
   Louis Vuitton was recognized for its advertising in 2014 with the Creative Campaign award.
   The late Prof Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins was also honoured in a special tribute, with looks by designers she had taught, including Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou.
   There were 63 nominees in total for the various categories, with 400 industry members worldwide casting their vote.
   Sponsors for the British Fashion Awards 2014 are Swarovski as principal partner; Canon, MAC, Toni & Guy and Vodafone as presenting sponsors; and American Express, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes-Benz, Penhaligon’s and Rightster. The British Fashion Council also recognizes Fashion Monitor and Harrogate Spa.



Dan Sims

Above, from top Michelle Dockery, and Womenswear Designer of the Year Erdem Moralioglu. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, winner of the Outstanding Achievement Award.

Red carpet highlights

Highlights

Prism: Emerging Accessory Designer

Anya Hindmarch: Accessory Designer of the Year

Marques’Almeida: Emerging Womenswear Designer

Cara Delevingne: Model of the Year

J. W. Anderson: Menswear Designer of the Year

Edward Enninful: Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator

Victoria Beckham: Brand of the Year

Emma Watson: British Style Award

Louis Vuitton: Creative Campaign Award

Nicolas GhesquiĂšre for Louis Vuitton: International Designer

Alexander McQueen: Red Carpet Designer

Erdem: Womenswear Designer of the Year

Chris Moore: British Fashion Council Special Recognition Award


Doug Rimington/Detune Photography

Above Marques’Almeida is the name to look out for in British fashion, as the label won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards 2014 tonight.


Above This campaign helped net Louis Vuitton the Creative Campaign Award at the British Fashion Awards tonight.

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November 13, 2014

Fadwa Baruni celebrates UAE National Day with new collection

Lucire staff/21.23

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Designer Fadwa Baruni has launched a UAE National Day-themed collection in association with Professionelle Boutique in Dubai Mall, available from November to the day itself on December 2.
   The dress design features the colours of the country’s flag, using silk and other high-quality fabrics. It features red, black and white, with a deep shade of green.
   Iraqi actress Alaa Shaker will promote the dress, while photographer Mohammed Al Marzouqi and Poupa Salon & Nail Spa have contributed to the promotion.
   Professionelle Boutique is on level 1 of the Dubai Mall, facing Shakespeare & Co.

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Filed under: celebrity, Dubai, fashion, Lucire
November 12, 2014

Georgia Alice wins 2014 DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship

Lucire staff/9.27

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Sam Lee

Top Megan Wildermoth (DHL), Georgia Currie (Georgia Alice), and Dan Gosling (Stolen Girlfriends’ Club). Centre Garments from Georgia Alice during the judging session. Above Georgia Currie explains her collection to the judges.

Georgia Alice has won the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship for 2014, taking home the NZ$10,000 prize in international freight, along with coaching in freight and logistics. Sly Guild and Lucy McIntosh were first and second runners-up, with prizes of NZ$1,500 and NZ$500 respectively.
   Georgia Currie, the winning label’s designer, has been operating her label from Christchurch since 2012, after a stint in the development programme at David Jones and training at Christchurch Polytechnic. Georgia Alice is carried at 24 retailers worldwide, including ones in New York and Los Angeles, and has featured in Vogue Australia, Elle Australia, Russh and Oyster.
   Currie said in a release, ‘I am beyond thrilled to have been awarded the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship. Georgia Alice currently has stockists throughout Australasia and North America, and over the next 12 months with the amazing additional support from DHL, Georgia Alice will be able to confidently continue to export and maintain growth internationally. I am overwhelmed that my brand has been selected and so excited for the future. A huge thank-you to the judges who saw the potential in my brand, and of course to every girl out there wearing Georgia Alice.’
   Dan Gosling of Stolen Girlfriends’ Club, one of the judges and the inaugural winner of the DHL scholarship in 2008, said, ‘The momentum Georgia’s receiving reminds me of what it was like at the beginning with Stolen Girlfriends’ Club. She’s definitely at the tipping-point in terms of her brand. But at the heart of it her collections are strong—you can tell if a garment is a Georgia Alice piece. I could see her being the next Karen Walker.’


Sam Lee

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
November 10, 2014

Nanette Lepore for Origins launches limited-edition holiday collection in NYC

Lucire staff/13.08

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This past Wednesday I attended the Nanette Lepore for Origins launch of their limited holiday collection at Lepore’s showroom in New York City. This collection was inspired by Lepore’s travels, from Morocco to India to Venezia, and coincides perfectly with Origins’ earth-sourced approach to beauty.
   Nanette’s showroom was the perfect place for the event, showcasing her line’s ĂŠsthetic alongside cult-classic products from Origins such as the Clear Improvement charcoal mask and the Ginger SoufflĂ© body cream. I was also introduced to products from the hair line, Ojon, such as the Rare Blend Tamer, a flyaway fixing hair mascara perfect to keep in your purse for humid nights. All the products went into the Nanette Lepore-designed make-up bag that is also great for transitioning your look from day to night as a clutch. The print is colourful and clearly travel-inspired and made of 100 per cent recycled cotton.
   Along with all the products, there was a photo booth and a product styling photo op where you can style the contents of your bag with your own items and supplied common purse items. I added my NYC Metro card, headphones, compass, and lip balm to the Origins and Ojon items I received and the assortment of items they had to choose from. I’m quite proud of my first product styling experience and would love to see other Lucire readers style a #WhatsInMyBag photo. Let me know if you do and tag @Lucire (on Twitter and Instagram). I can’t wait to see what you create!—Jamie Dorman, New York Beauty Editor

Availability: Origins retail stores and Origins.com
Price: Exclusive limited edition cosmetic bag plus a travel size Drink Up hydrating lip balm with any US$65 purchase



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October 21, 2014

Fashion design legend Oscar de la Renta passes away

Lucire staff/17.18

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Above The image of Oscar de la Renta used by his company today to signal his passing.

Oscar de la Renta has passed away at his home in Kent, Conn., aged 82 after a six-year battle with cancer, his family has confirmed.
   De la Renta had only appointed his successor, Peter Copping, earlier this month, with little public sign of his long fight with his condition.
   De la Renta was born in the Dominican Republic, which has announced that it will hold a day of mourning in his honour on Wednesday.
   He went to Madrid to study art but wound up in fashion, working first as an apprentice with CristĂłbal Balenciaga, and joined Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby, before setting up his own label in New York in 1965. Between 1993 and 2002, he designed Balmain’s haute couture collections.
   His designs showed a classic, feminine sensibility, and was a mainstay of New York Fashion Week for decades. He had dressed US first ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy to Michelle Obama, and, most recently, Amal Alamuddin for her wedding to George Clooney. Former US first daughter Jenna Bush wore Oscar de la Renta on her wedding day.
   De la Renta, in this publication’s experience, never played favourites, and provided access to fashion magazines based on merit rather than circulation numbers.
   He had served as president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America from 1973 to 1976, then from 1986 to 1988, and received the Gold Medal of Bellas Artes and La Gran Cruz de la Orden del MĂ©rito Civil from Spain and the LĂ©gion d’honneur from France.
   He is survived by his wife Annette.

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