Lucire: News


May 5, 2015

Chanel shows cruise 2015–16 in Seoul, with GisĂšle BĂŒndchen, Kristen Stewart, Razane Jammal, Park Shin Hye, CL, Alma Jodorowsky

Lucire staff/8.27

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Olivier Saillant

Aldo Castoldi

Chanel’s cruise 2015–16 collection has a stylistic link from what we saw at the ready-to-wear shows earlier this year, with Karl Lagerfeld confident with endowing the French label with plenty of colour and differing textures, though this time, he has looked to the orient for his inspiration.
   Showing on Monday at the Dongdaemum Design Plaza (DDP) in Seoul in the presence of an audience that included GisĂšle BĂŒndchen, Kristen Stewart, Razane Jammal, Tilda Swinton, Gaspard Ulliel, Alma Jodorowsky, Isabelle Huppert, Rinko Kikuchi, G-Dragon, Taeyang, Ko Ah-Sung, Jung Ryeo-won, Park Shin Hye, Choi Siwon, Sandro Kopp, Gwei Lun Mei, Han Ye Seul, Namie Amuro, Lee Jong Suk, Yoona Lim, and CL, the cruise collection has what Chanel dubs a structured, avant-garde silhouette.
   Gone was the houndstooth of the autumn–winter 2015–16 collection, replaced by highly colourful tweeds and cottons, which injected more pizazz into the silhouette. Lagerfeld also used shantung, linen, tulle and lace. He pulled off patchwork with more elegance than most designers can muster, while stripes and embroideries provided further texture to each look. Instead of the Parisian inspiration from his previous collection, Chanel took the Korean hanbok and moulded it into jackets with rounded shoulders; the collars were also slightly rounded and full, avoiding sharp lines. Skirts are pencil- and straight-cut, while trousers are wide. The sense of volume really came from the textures and layers used, more than the cuts themselves.
   The post-show event saw a performance by DJ Mademoiselle Yulia, followed by a private concert by Cerrone and a further performance by DJ Tim Sweeney.


Aldo Castoldi

Show highlights


April 17, 2015

John Varvatos opens in Detroit with black-carpet party, with Alice Cooper rocking his best

Lucire staff/13.00

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Loreen Sarkis

Tasos Katopodis

Detroit is undergoing a renaissance, at least in terms of its reputation across the US. A few years ago, Eminem promoted Chrysler as being proudly from Detroit, a city that has been through it all, and John Varvatos now celebrates the place with a new store, opening with a VIP party featuring a live performance by Alice Cooper.
   It’s no surprise, then, to learn that Chrysler had a hand in this party, too, and both Varvatos and Cooper are Detroit natives, proud that their city is emerging out of some of its toughest years.
   The 600-strong ‘black carpet’ party, at which Cooper belted out ‘Nice Guy’, ‘Wheels’, ‘Billion Dollar Babies’, ‘Be My Lover’, ‘Lost in America’, ‘Dirty Diamond’, ‘Bite Your Face Off’, ‘Brown Sugar’, ‘Break on Thru’, ‘Foxy’, ‘My Generation’, ‘18’, ‘Poison’, and ‘School’s Out’, was hosted in association with Dan Gilbert and Bedrock Real Estate.
   Other VIPs included model Kate Upton, Justin Verlander (Detroit Tigers), Michael Bolton, Nicole Curtis, Eric Ebron (Detroit Lions), Chris Chelios (NHL Hall of Famer), R&B and soul singer Dwele, Fiat–Chrysler top brass such as Al Gardner and Olivier François, Nate Forbes, Jim Ketai, Dan Mullen, Devin Gardner (NFL prospect) and Mojo in the Morning hosts Thomas ‘Mojo’ Carballo, Shannon Murphy, and Spike.
   Varvatos introduced the evening in his home town, saying, ‘For me, this is more than a store opening celebration. It’s a kick-off celebration of things to come to the city of Detroit. The future is bright and it’s just the beginning!’
   Cooper noted afterwards, ‘It’s great to be back in Detroit rocking out with John Varvatos.’
   Gardner said in a release, ‘The Chrysler brand has a long-standing partnership with John Varvatos that has evolved over the years, so when he asked us to be a part of this event taking place in our own backyard, we immediately said, “Yes.”’ Chrysler showed off its rebodied 300 on the black carpet, helping cement its position as a Detroit icon.
   Gilbert said, ‘The immeasurable energy felt in the store solidified that the arrival of J. V.’s iconic fashion and rock ’n’ roll brand in downtown Detroit is truly destined for success. With construction well underway for the M-1 Rail along the Woodward Corridor, combined with the rapid growth of retail, restaurants and tech companies opening in downtown Detroit, a grand celebration such as this one is the first of many more to come to Detroiters.’
   The new 4,600 ftÂČ, two-storey store is located at a brownstone at 1500 Woodward Avenue, and is owned and managed by Bedrock Real Estate Services. John Varvatos’ full line of menswear is represented, including John Varvatos Collection, John Varvatos Star USA and Converse by John Varvatos.

Loreen Sarkis

Tasos Katopodis

Loreen Sarkis

Duane Prokop

Loreen Sarkis

Tasos Katopodis

March 31, 2015

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition opens at Grand Palais in Paris

Lucire staff/10.44

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Top Andreja Pejić in a design from the Confession of a Child of the Century haute couture collection, autumn–winter 2012–13. Photograph copyright Alix Malka. Centre Barbarella body-corset from the Les actrices haute couture collection, autumn–winter 2009–10. Photograph copyright Patrice Stable for Jean Paul Gaultier. Above Kylie Minogue in the Immaculata gown, a net lace dress with large patterned embroidery and white linen cut-outs from the spring–summer 2007 Virgins (or Madonnas) collection. Photograph copyright William Baker.

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: from the Sidewalk to the Catwalk opens tomorrow in Paris at the Grand Palais, running till August 3.
   It features 300 pieces from both his couture and prĂȘt-Ă -porter collections between 1976 and 2013, as well as designs, sketches, film clips, music videos, television broadcasts, audiovisual installations, animated mannequins and wigs. Even his old teddy bear is on display.
   Earlier work, from the time when Gaultier was hired by Pierre Cardin in 1970, is also included.
   Gaultier’s best known design was his cone bra for Madonna for her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour.
   At a press conference yesterday, Gaultier insisted that the exhibition is not a retrospective, but a new work.
   The exhibition is an initiative of the MusĂ©e des beaux-arts de MontrĂ©al (MontrĂ©al Museum of Fine Arts), under the direction of its curator Nathalie Bondil and exhibition curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot, in collaboration with the Grand Palais and the Jean Paul Gaultier house. It had previously been displayed in MontrĂ©al, New York, London, San Francisco, and Melbourne.
   Air Canada serves as the exhibition’s official carrier, and Kusmi Tea, Roche Bobois and Swarovski sponsor.

January 28, 2015

Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis, Alice Dellal at Chanel couture; announced as models for new campaign

Lucire staff/11.35

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Frédéric David/Chanel

Olivier Saillant/Chanel

Paris editor Lola Cristall will have her report from the Paris haute couture shows shortly in Lucire. Among them, Chanel showed its spring–summer 2015 collection beneath the dome at the Grand Palais, in one of the most memorable.
   By way of preview of Lucire’s upcoming piece, here are glimpses of a very delicate, light and airy collection from Karl Lagerfeld, shown in front of a celebrity audience that included Chanel ambassadors Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis and Alice Dellal (who have all been chosen to be the faces of the Chanel handbags’ campaign to be released in April), Anna Mouglalis, Gaspard Ulliel, Clotilde Hesme, Alma Jodorowsky, Anne Berest, G-Dragon, Dylan Penn and Stacy Martin.
   The greenhouse setting was intentional as a bouquet appeared, with orange, red, pink, blue, yellow and green as Chanel’s colours for spring. Short tops, jackets and blouses, long coats, dropped waists, both full and pencil-cut skirts, wide brimmed hats and tweed jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves contribute to the vintage garden look. Embroidered flowers, tulle and sequins sparkle for the evening.

Olivier Saillant/Chanel

January 22, 2015

Spark to help one Kiwi hopeful into the fashion industry

Lucire staff/13.10

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Above The home page of the Spark My Potential website.

Following on from its Spark Lab Fashion Month announcement, the New Zealand telco will support one New Zealander who wishes to start in the fashion industry.
   The successful applicant, to be announced on February 27 as Fashion Month concludes, will be supported through the crowd-funding initiative, Spark My Potential. They will receive access to coaching, publicity and top-up funding through the Spark Foundation, says the company.
   New Zealanders are invited to apply by emailing before February 20, 2015, detailing the project, goal, funding target and timeline.
   â€˜Whether you want to create your own fashion line, you need help entering this year’s Fashion Week, or you want to do something completely outside the square, we’d like to hear from you,’ said Spark GM for Home, Mobile and Business Jason Paris in a release.

Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
January 12, 2015

Paris shows solidarity in Sunday’s March for Unity

Lola Cristall/5.08

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Lola Cristall

The March for Unity that took place today in Paris was announced as the largest demonstration in the history of France, with an estimated 1·5 million to 2 million on the capital’s streets. The interior ministry believes that there had not been so many since the liberation of Paris in August 1944. A number of people from around the world, politicians and celebrities walked the streets throughout the afternoon.
   Lucire’s Paris editor Lola Cristall took these photographs as she joined others to commemorate and celebrate the victims of Paris’s terror attacks last week.
   The deaths included staff at the satirical Charlie Hebdo, where cartoonists Charb, Cabu, Tignous et Wolinski (the pen names for StĂ©phane Charbonnier, who was also editor, Jean Cabut, Bernard Verlhac and Georges Wolinski) and police officers Franck Brinsolaro and Ahmed Merabat were slain in a massacre on Wednesday. Police officer Clarissa Jean-Philippe was killed the following day in a related attack, and four civilians were killed in a siege on Friday.
   â€˜While my domain is predominantly the luxury and entertainment sector, the pictures might be of interest to some people to see how so many came together in the city to support the innocent journalists, artists and victims,’ said Cristall.
   â€˜The city is coming together as one. They were phenomenal artists,’ she added.
   Those in the march chanted, ‘On est tous Charlie’ (‘We are all Charlie’) and ‘Charlie Charlie Charlie,’ holding up banners and placards, reading everything from ‘Je suis Charlie’ (‘I am Charlie’), which began trending on the day of the massacre on Tumblr and other social media, and ‘Nous sommes Charlie’ (‘We are Charlie’) to ‘Je suis Muslim’ (‘I am Muslim’). French flags, hearts and Charlie Hebdo covers were also seen in the march.
   World leaders also participated in the march, including French president François Hollande, HM Queen Rania of Jordan, German chancellor Angela Merkel, Spanish prime minister Mariano Rajoy, Palestinian president Mahmoud Abbas, Israeli prime minister Binyamin Netanyahu, British prime minister David Cameron, Malian president Ibrahim Boubacar KĂ«ita, Polish prime minister Ewa Kopacz, Turkish prime minister Ahmet Davutoglu, and Ukrainian president Petro Poroshenko. Russian foreign minister Sergei Lavrov, Egyptian foreign minister Sameh Shoukry, US attorney-general Eric Holder, European Council president Donald Tusk, and UK opposition leader Ed Miliband were also present.
   Reporters sans frontiĂšres were critical of the presence of Davutoglu and Shoukry, as their countries had restricted press freedoms.
   Public transport was free in Paris to discourage private car use for the march.
   Earlier in the week, Jean Paul Gaultier and his staff posed for a photograph where they held up ‘Je suis Charlie’ print-outs, showing unity with the fallen journalists.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Above Jean Paul Gaultier and his staff with ‘Je suis Charlie’ banners, showing solidarity with the fallen at the massacre at Charlie Hebdo. Below More scenes from Paris on Friday and during the March for Unity on Sunday.

Lola Cristall

December 10, 2014

News in brief: Chanel’s Paris–Salzburg collection; Lady Gaga, Eva Longoria in NYC; Anja Rubik launches perfume

Lucire staff/10.59

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Karl Lagerfeld has unveiled the 13th Chanel MĂ©tiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria, recognizing its historical connection with Gabrielle Chanel (she got the inspiration for the Chanel jacket there, at the Hotel Schloss Mittersill, then owned by Baron Hubert von Pantz, with whom she had a fling). Lagerfeld discusses his collection in the video clip below, which showcases the Paris–Salzburg collection, featuring Cara Delevingne, who not only closed the show, but is the face of the collection itself.
   The presentation, at the Leopoldskron chĂąteau, showcased the fine work of the feather-workers, milliners, tuckers and bootmakers. Lagerfeld took inspiration from traditional Austrian clothing, revisiting the dirndls and lederhosen, using loden, tweed, felt, leather and satin cashmere mix, taffeta and lace. Evening dresses featured pin-tucked fronts, frills, pleats and voluminous sleeves.
   â€˜You can take inspiration from the apron, from the sleeves, from all the little details, but you have to forget it all and we do it in a new way,’ said Lagerfeld. ‘The star of Salzburg is about the jacket, but what I like is the craftsmanship, the embroidery with all the feathers. There is an unbelievable craftsmanship in all those clothes: most of the embroidery includes stones and many feathers, it’s like fur, it’s like flying fur. If you look at them closely, it’s quite unbelievable; when you see them or you touch them. So I tried, with beautiful fake pearls, to make interesting pearl jewellery that looks like embroidery. It’s the updated version of what I think it should be, could be, and had to be today.’
   In New York celebrity sightings, Lady Gaga has been spotted wearing the Blake wide-brim hat in oyster felt with pearl trim from Eugenia Kim’s fall 2014 collection last week, while Eva Longoria wore a Ralph & Russo spring–summer 2014 white silk crĂȘpe cap sleeve embellished jacket with structured peplum, pencil skirt and black alligator belt to the ninth annual L’OrĂ©al Women of Worth event.
   L’OrĂ©al Paris notes that Longoria’s look uses True Match liquid foundation in C2 Rose Vanilla, the Volume Million Lashes Excess in Extra Black, Color Riche Le Kajal in 501 Oriental Black, the Super Liner Brow Artist Plumper in medium to dark, and the Elnett Volume Excess hairspray. Blake Lively, very much this year’s L’OrĂ©al Paris celebrity with all the attention she garnered at Cannes, was also at Women of Worth, her look accomplished with True Match in N3 Creamy Beige, the Glam Bronze Powder Duo in 101 Blonde, the Flash Lash Butterfly in Intenza, Txt Wave Creating Spray, and the Nude Rose Color Riche La Palette.

   Polish model Anja Rubik, 31, meanwhile, has released her new perfume, Original. At Colette in Paris, she discusses some of her beauty tips from her career, including using eyelash curlers and moisturizing your skin. Rubik also reveals that Brigitte Bardot is her ‘ultimate beauty’, and rates Charlotte Gainsbourg and Patty Smyth highly.
   The perfume scents are those that have followed her over the years, namely white lilies and green tea, while the black-and-white imagery was inspired by her love of black-and-white photography and the work of Robert Mapplethorpe.
   Carrera y Carrera is going from strength to strength: the Madrid-based luxury jewellery brand has opened a boutique in Macau, as a first beach-head into China. Manuel Carrera, a fourth-generation descendant of the Carrera family who founded the brand, was on hand with CEO Svetlana Kupriyanova.
   Finally, in the main part of our site, travel editor Stanley Moss fits museums and great food into 48 hours in Torino, while publisher Jack Yan tests the BMW X1 Sdrive18d—readers might like the title.

December 7, 2014

Paris editor’s diary: events with Ji Wenbo, Pandora and Wacoal

Lola Cristall/12.43

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The FĂ©dĂ©ration française de la couture, du prĂȘt-Ă -porter des couturiers et des crĂ©ateurs de mode, l’Institut français de la mode, the China Garment Association and the China Fashion Association came together to celebrate half a century of unity. Following the China–France fashion summit, Ji Wenbo (left) presented his most recent collection at the prestigious HĂŽtel d’Evreux at la Place VendĂŽme. Ji, who is also director of the China Fashion Designers’ Association of Fashion and Art Committee, is known as the ‘king of fashion’ in China. He is head designer of Li Lang, a famous menswear brand. His outlook on the western fashion world incorporates a stunning, vivacious colour palette and original, effervescent styles. Imperial and bold shades came to life on the green and gold catwalk, with delicate prints on bold fabric.
   Pandora and brand ambassador Kellie Pickler, along with lifestyle expert Tai Beauchamp, hosted the Hearts of Today Awards at the Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills. Pandora is more than just a fine jewellery company: it also serves to support good causes. The concept was launched in July and serves to honour and celebrate females who work to improve the lives of women and children. The eight chosen honorees, out of 700 nominations, are each provided with $25,000 that would help them continue to reach their desired goal in ameliorating lives.
   Wacoal Europe invited guests to an intimate evening at the Salon Paul Ricard. The venue featured a number of Wacoal collections, from vibrant shades to neutral colours that attracted onlookers as they touched, felt and admired. Premier by Dead Sea, a brand founded in 1990 specializing in body, skin and hair rejuvenation for men and women, presented guests with natural products that revitalize hands and nails. Lillet featured their distinctive, delicate and sweet French aperitif wines, reviving one’s taste buds. In order to indulge in light-tasting guilty pleasures, Yohan Kim—once JoĂ«l Robuchon’s pastry chef—introduced a number of delicate French pastries from financiers with green tea to madeleine and pĂąte de fruits, exploding with bursts of fruity delight. Throughout the evening, numerous illustrations by Eudoxie were projected on the wall for the audience to enjoy.—Lola Cristall, Paris editor

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