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October 28, 2014

Georgia Alice, Lucy McIntosh, Sly Guild named as ïŹnalists for DHL scholarship

Lucire staff/21.09

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Above A design from the Georgia Alice look-book.

Georgia Alice, Lucy McIntosh and Sly Guild are the three finalists for this year’s DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship.
   Judges Dan Gosling (the inaugural winner, seven years ago, as co-founder of Stolen Girlfriends’ Club), John Kelly (Max Fashions), Paul Blomfield (Fashion Industry New Zealand) and Megan Wildermoth (DHL) will judge, and will announce their decision on November 12.
   The winner will receive NZ$10,000 in international freight, along with coaching in freight and logistics. The second prize is NZ$1,500, and the third valued at NZ$500. All will receive export mentoring and a membership from FINZ. For more information, visit www.dhlfashionscholarship.co.nz.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
October 24, 2014

H&M celebrates 10 years of designer collaborations with new book launching November 6

Lucire staff/13.58

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Time has flown: it has been 10 years since Hennes & Mauritz began its designer collaborations, the first with Karl Lagerfeld.
   The company will release a book, The First Ten Years, coinciding with its Alexander Wang x H&M launch on November 6.
   At the time, Lucire called it a move toward ‘attainable luxury': that even at a budget price, customers deserved to look good. It was a move toward democratization, something that had been seen en masse with technology, extended to fashion.
   The first Karl Lagerfeld for H&M collection prompted the designer to say, ‘Taste and looking chic is no longer a question of money or how you spend, but how you create a unique sense of style.’
   H&M’s collaborators have included Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, Roberto Cavalli, Commes des Garcons, Matthew Williamson, Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin, Versace, Marni, Maison Martin Margiela, Isabel Marant and Alexander Wang.
   The book features imagery from all designers, and will retail for US$34·95, available through select H&M stores in the US. A quarter of the cover price will go to Unicef.
   H&M will begin its celebration with a design retrospective at its flagship 589 Fifth Avenue, New York City store on October 27, with looks from each past designer.
   The store will showcase a new look from the Alexander Wang x H&M collection each day by way of preview.

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October 14, 2014

Peter Copping appointed creative director at Oscar de la Renta

Lucire staff/2.38

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Neil Rasmus/BFANYC.com

Above Oscar de la Renta at the 2013 CFDA Awards, photographed with Sec. Hillary Clinton.

A succession plan appears to be in place at Oscar de la Renta with the appointment of Peter Copping as creative director, a role created for him.
   The company says Copping will report to de la Renta, now 82, and Alex Bolen, its CEO and de la Renta’s stepson-in-law, commencing his role on November 3 and delivering his first collection for autumn–winter 2015 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York in February.
   Copping will handle all product categories at the brand, including bridal and home dĂ©cor.
   Copping, a graduate of Central St Martin’s, was previously at Sonia Rykiel and Christian Lacroix, then studio director under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, and, most recently, artistic director at Nina Ricci.
   De la Renta’s statement indicated that Copping will eventually succeed him. ‘I’m very happy Peter has agreed to join us. He is a great talent and along with our shared design sensibilities, we both have a deep curiosity about the wider world, from music and art to architecture and gardens. Our industry has not always done the best job when it comes to changes in design leadership. My hope is that, in leading this selection, and actively participating in the transition, I can insure the right design future for our company and brand.’
   Copping said, ‘It is an immense pleasure for me to join Oscar de la Renta as Creative Director in November. After a career of 20 years in Paris, this is an important next step for me. Oscar de la Renta has defined American elegance for generations of women, and the opportunity to work with him and help ensure the future of the brand is very exciting.’
   Oscar de la Renta remains privately held, with annual sales of $150 million.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New York
September 14, 2014

DHL launches 2014’s Fashion Export Scholarship competition

Lucire staff/23.06

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Above Jae Mills of Commoners with models in last year’s competition.

DHL has launched its seventh annual DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship, with entries closing October 10.
   The Scholarship has been known for helping boost New Zealand’s best up-and-coming fashion names, including Stolen Girlfriends’ Club, Lonely Hearts, Twenty-Seven Names and I Love Ugly. Last year’s winner was Commoners.
   Fashion Industry New Zealand chairman Paul Blomfield will head the judging panel with DHL national strategic account manager for fashion and textiles Megan Wildermouth.
   The winner will receive NZ$10,000 in international freight, along with coaching in freight and logistics. The second prize is NZ$1,500, and the third valued at NZ$500. All will receive export mentoring and a membership from FINZ.
   Applicants can head to dhlfashionscholarship.co.nz. The winner will be announced on November 11.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
September 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015: more favourites from the ïŹrst ïŹve days

Lucire staff/20.58

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Through Lucire’s history, there have been a select group of labels that get featured thanks to their consistency of design and their integrity. It’s no coincidence that they are among our favourites over days three through five at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York: BCBG Max Azria, Marissa Webb, Carmen Marc Valvo, Venexiana, Custo Barcelona, Vivienne Tam, Nanette Lepore, Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra. We were impressed with Taoray Wang and have included this designer for the first time in our pages. Lola Cristall leads our post-event coverage.
   Remember you can watch our live player on our home page for coverage from New York as it happens.

BCBG Max Azria


Marissa Webb

Carmen Marc Valvo



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Venexiana


Custo Barcelona


Vivienne Tam



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Nanette Lepore


Carolina Herrera



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Taoray Wang



Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Reem Acra



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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August 28, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day three: Hailwood and Kate Sylvester up the standard

Sopheak Seng/15.11

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Lucire’s fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng and photographer Matthew Beveridge look at day three’s mixed bag of shows.

New Generation
   Vibe: Four up-and-coming designers showcasing what they have to offer the fashion world as the voices of the future.
   Clothes: Like a pick-and-mix bag of lollies, there were some dud and then some great pieces. Overall, the collections seemed forced and not polished enough. Construction of the garments left something to be desired, as there were twisted seams and puckering on most trousers and dresses, and a lack of cohesion in ideas, novelty and innovation. Stand-outs, which were few and far between, were Itzme, with their androgynous take on soft tailoring and sportswear. A bright colour palette of fuchsia, purple and orange showed great potential but was let down by shoddy construction and finishing. Nomsa Mabuto showed a good collection of predominately separates of coats, pants and shell tops in a colour palette of varying shades of green.


Trish Peng
   Vibe: Sportswear for ready-to-wear, gowns and party dresses.
   Clothes: Laser-cut bomber jackets and circle skirts with anoraks and ’80s ruffled off-the-shoulder tops and bright multi-coloured striped pieces. The collection then diverged into party dresses in bright pop colours. This was where the collection was let down: poor fabric and construction choices meant that under the glare of the lights, the gowns didn’t feel luxurious enough—and this was viewed between people’s heads in row B. Also the fits of the gowns on some of the models were not great, either. It is the little details that are often overlooked that add to the polish of a collection.
   Look: directed by L’OrĂ©al Professionnel New Zealand ambassador, Michael Beel, who created an origami-inspired criss-cross weave pattern in the models’ hair, then gathered into a low ponytail. Simple and elegant.

Designer Selection
   Vibe: In-season showcase to consumers. Fun, commercial fashion.
   Clothes: All in-season summer pieces from the 30-odd designers that were showing as part of New Zealand Fashion Week. Think bright, fun, commercial pieces that you could buy off the racks the moment you walked out of the show. The middle section of the show was presented by Woman’s Day, who showed a selective range of garments in red and white styled by Lulu Wilcox, featuring models in turbans and carrying red heart-shaped balloons, reminiscent of a Banksy street art piece. Closing the show was Jockey, who set hearts a-flutter with five All Black players, including Victor Vito, showcasing the spring–summer 2014–15 underwear looks for men, and model Nikki Phillips showing the women’s range.

Hailwood
   Vibe: Wearable streetwear with a glamorous edge. Rock concert chic.
   Clothes: Streetwear-oriented, the collection was denim-heavy but moved into Hailwood’s take on his draped velvet gowns that work for every body shape. The dĂ©vorĂ© silks and velvets were great, as were the sequinned jackets and dresses that closed the show. Stand-outs, however, were his denim range and the oversized unicorn motif ponchos. Super-cool, relaxed dressing.
   Look: Dirty, gritty, but pretty. Messy and textural.

Kate Sylvester
   Vibe: Romantic, literary geek chic, celebrating nonchalant luxury and refined classics.
   Clothes: Vintage-inspired with references to menswear and long days in an English countryside, tucked up in your boyfriend’s clothes, his pyjama bottoms or boxers with his robes and shirts. Great masculine-inspired tailoring in regatta stripes and polka dots. Sheer dresses and blouses added a soft romantic air to the collection as did the long Isadora Duncan-style fringe scarves casually draped around the models’ necks. Loved the return of males on the Sylvester runway and stand-outs were the camel trench, open shirt, and striped trousers casually rolled up with brogues. All this romantic vision was helped along by a cascading shower of ripped pages from a book.
   Look: Just rolled out of bed, slightly textural hair with just flushed make-up.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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August 27, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day two: from softly and rosy to Zambesi’s superheroes

Sopheak Seng/16.05

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Fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng, and photographer Matthew Beveridge, cover day two of New Zealand Fashion Week, with Pardon My French, Lucy McIntosh, the NZ Weddings show, Pia, Andrea Moore and I AM, Juliette Hogan and Zambesi.

Pardon My French
   Vibe: ’Sixties beatniks with a touch of glamour.
   Clothes: Skinny leather pants spliced with rose gold zips and ponte, houndstooth composed of flying swallows, turtlenecks, oversized cocoon coats, draped skirts and dresses crafted in shades of beige, white, black and greys, all paired with ballet flats, a floppy beret and chunky hosiery.
   Look: Poker straight hair by Sara Allsop of Dharma for GHD and smoky kohl-rimmed eyes by Samantha Holley for MAC.

Lucy McIntosh
   Vibe: Grungy punk seen through a refined, modern eye.
   Clothes: Androgynous and structured coats and jackets in fine cashmere wools—full-length or blazer, there were different variations with some in the new shape of the double-breasted vest. Mini- and midi-length pleated skirts all worn underneath. Almost an ’80s throwback. The stand-out was the rose-print jacquard that featured on pants and jackets.
   Look: Messy dirty glamour hair with a touch of bronze on the cheeks and nude lips.

NZ Weddings show
   Vibe: Bridal and all things cute and white.
   Clothes: Gowns upon gowns of lace, tulle and sheer. Stand-outs were Hera Bridal with their ĂŒber-cute children’s range of flower-girl dresses; and the Mint lace and tulle dress. The show signalled the death of the strapless gown as well as the princess style, as there were more streamline gowns on show, with cut-out detailing and a focus on the back. Crane Brothers and Barkers both showed great grooms’ attire with Barkers offering up a shorts option for the fashion-brave.
   Look: soft goddess cascading curls with romantic blushing bridal make-up.


Pia
   Vibe: Cruisy summer days at the pier.
   Clothes: Considering she is known for her graphic digital prints, there was not a lot of that on show as the focus was more on garments in solid colours of beige, white chambray, soft mints and blush pinks. The only prints that were featured were strawberries, watermelons and anchors, which all felt derivative. New shapes in tunics and fabrics provided interest as did the Adidas slides with white sport socks.
   Look: Beach–boho hair with a slick of white eyeshadow that looked zinc-like.

Andrea Moore and I AM
   Vibe: Surrealism meets ’70s Charlie’s Angels and a bit of Studio 54; I AM was athletic sport-luxe.
   Clothes: Great coats in a cacophony of colour from emerald, through to beet pink and cobalt blue. Dresses and jumpsuits featured heavily in the collection as did lace and faux fur. Stand-outs were the striped faux fur coat and fur-trimmed bags, and Moore’s new venture into eyewear and jewellery. A great deal of editing wouldn’t go amiss; however, it was good to see the brand expanding into a whole lifestyle idea.
   Look: ’Seventies Farrah Fawcett blow-outs, bouncy hair with bright fuchsia and burgundy lips.

Juliette Hogan
   Vibe: Juliette Hogan goes dark grunge.
   Clothes: Typical Juliette Hogan with a focus on all things feminine: pleated skirts and moody florals featured throughout the collection. However, it was the final pieces in the collection that really stood out: a floor-length sequinned maxi-skirt with casual T-shirt paired with white New Balance sneakers as well as the full floor-length gown in the same fabric. They gave us something new to the Hogan brand we have all come to know and love. Heavy on the black. A live band also gave something unique. Having to wait for over an hour for the start wore thin, but this was a show which lightened the mood of the weary guests.
   Look: Clean, fresh-faced beauties, chic New Yorker.

Zambesi
   Vibe: Futuristic superheroes, Flash Gordon song on repeat with strobes of blue and bright white lights and Zambesi decal on the runway.
   Clothes: No sequins or sheer in sight: the focus was on soft tailoring as well as structured suiting and casually cool clothes. Palette of black, cerulean blue, grey, khaki, olive, and touches of mauve and lilac. Stand-outs were the dressing gown-style coats in the softest of wools, the oversized knitwear, the cerulean blue boots, the tone-on-tone suits as well as the giant XXXV logo (commemorating Zambesi’s 35 years in business) blankets that were worn as capes, superhero-style, by the models.
   Look: Faux hawk fins that ran down the centre of the females, as well as the clip-in extensions for the male models, it was all about texture and grit. Fresh-faced.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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May 21, 2014

Honouring tomorrow’s designers at The Spirit of Otis Fashion

Lola Cristall/12.48

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Kai He

Top Christina Kim and Natalie Salvador. Above Johnny Was.

According to Coco Chanel, ‘Fashion is architecture. It is a matter of proportions.’
   Otis College of Art and Design, founded in 1918, takes its students toward a path of art and ingenuity. It hosts an unforgettable annual black-tie gala where young designers, mentored by renowned names in the industry, take centre-stage.
   On May 3, Otis College of Art and Design hosted its 32nd annual scholarship benefit and fashion show, The Spirit of Otis Fashion, at the Beverly Hilton, raising US$1 million in support of rising talent in the field of art and design. Approximately 1,000 guests came to celebrate fashion. Students dominated the runway with their visions of contemporary appeal, working side by side with well known designers, including AmĂ© Austin Max of Max Studio, Christina Kim of DOSA, David Meister, Isabel and Ruben Toledo of Lane Bryant, Biya Ramar of Eli Levite’s Johnny Was, Jarrett Reynolds and Adrian Nyman of Nike, Robert Tuggle of Eddie Bauer, Todd Oldham, Rod Beattie of Bleu with Erika Kane for Mattel Barbie, Bobbi Garland of Western Costume, and Manu Aldea of Under Armour. Mentors provided each student with a particular assignment that would inspire and spark their originality. The student collections featured sportswear, formal and casual looks for women, men and juniors. Student winners included Natalie Salvador for Ruben and Isabel Toledo and DOSA, Michelle Song for Todd Oldham, Hye Mi Kim for MaxStudio, Adrian Correa for Eddie Bauer, Anissa Irving for Johnny Was, June Lee for Under Armour, Rachel Lee for Nike, Hyun Jun Cho for Barbie, and Arthur Thammavong for David Meister. Thammavong was also announced as the winner of the Designer of the Year award.
   This year’s honorees included the president and CEO of Eddie Bauer, Michael Egeck (presented with the Creative Vision Award), the designer and founder of Max Studio, Leon Max (presented with the Design Legend Award), and creative New York-based duo, Isabel and Ruben Toledo (presented with the Design Innovation Award).—Lola Cristall, Paris editor





Kai He

From top, left to right David Meister and Arthur Thammavong. David Meister. Two designs from DOSA. Johnny Was. The final two, from Max Studios.

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