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December 11, 2014

Unbridled creativity at Raffles College of Design’s Perspective graduate show

Lucire staff/13.36

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The 2014 graduate show from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce, titled Perspective, took place in the big top of the iconic Luna Park in Sydney on December 9.
   The location could not have been more idyllic, and the weather, which has been very stormy of late, held, allowing all guests and designers to make their way to the show.
   It is almost impossible to make comment about all 30 graduates but having an eye for trend, I can say that there was a yearning felt through a sizeable portion of the work presented to embrace all things Mother Nature, in all her textures and colours: escapism, easier living, freedom and expressionism. There were 30 capsule collections consisting of six looks each.
   The show was opened by Queency Yustiawan, inspired by the work of Russian painter Kazimir Malevich. A dramatic black-and-white dress coat was the pièce de résistance and reminded me of a bicolour paper plane. I was impressed with the tailoring of the piece.

Below Queency Yustiawan.


   Good tailoring has been spotted across much of the collections showed, which speaks volumes about the college they are graduating from. What I thought was a dying skill, cherished by very few nowadays, has hope.
   My total stand-out was the capsule by Ashleigh Kwong, which displayed pared-back elegance, fresh and interesting prints and shapes, and wearability. There was a little white trapeze dress with a blue print that I would happily wear any time.

Below The stand-out for Lucire’s Viviana Pannell was the capsule collection by Ashleigh Kwong.


   In the glamour department, Shannon Gambino was a shining star, and so was Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van, with her royal blue obsession. Her inspiration reminded me slightly of Toni Maticevski and my favourite piece was a little single-shoulder cocktail dress featuring delicate, layered ruffles. Also notable in this department was Lily Purkiss, who presented a capsule of delicate sheers covering shorter layers: utter purity and elegance. Hailing all the way from Italy, Daniela Monica Da Rui presented a capsule inspired by German expressionism, femmes fatales and film noir. She captured her brief very well as one of the pieces, an elegant black dress appliquéd with sculptural black twigs, made me think of a fairy tale with the iconic Marlene Dietrich playing the lead. Christine Milanja, with her elegant and demurely sexy capsule, also deserves a mention.

Below Shannon Gambino.


Below A royal blue obsession from Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van.
Below Lily Purkiss.
Below Italian designer, Daniela Monica da Rui.
Below Christine Milanja.
   High on wearability were Molly Ya Jung Wu with her pared-down capsule exhibiting very interesting cuts. Rishella Lisha Liang presented a capsule of more wearable menswear and resort-like womenswear featuring appliqués.
   The best menswear, to my mind, was presented by Noal Yam Gurung. Xtra Senquan Ruan presented an interesting combination of interlocking shapes and draping.

Below Molly Ya Jung Wu.


Below Rishella Lisha Liang, featuring wearable menswear.
Below Noal Yam Gurung created the best menswear of the show.
Below Xtra Senquan Ruan.
   It was a beautiful show and I expect to see much more from these graduates. I just love to see unbridled creativity not yet contaminated by commercial realities and the utter need to push prices down in today’s world. Good things are worth paying a nice sum for and are treasured forever. Some of what I saw could be produced and placed into stores tomorrow.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend
December 1, 2014

Video from British Fashion Awards 2014: Erdem, J. W. Anderson take top honours; Emma Watson tops vote

Lucire staff/23.42

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Dan Sims

Above, from top Poppy Delevingne, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Cara Delevingne, Model of the Year. Victoria Beckham, winning Brand of the Year. Emma Watson, who won the British Style Award.

Before an audience of 2,070 at the London Coliseum, the 2014 British Fashion Awards have seen Erdem and J. W. Anderson take out the coveted prizes of Womenswear Designer of the Year and Menswear Designer of the Year respectively. Anya Hindmarch was named the Accessories’ Designer of the Year.
   Actress Michelle Dockery, racing driver Lewis Hamilton, and models Karolína Kurková and Eva Herzigová, presented the much-awaited top three awards of the night.
   Actress Emma Watson won the British Style Award in a public vote (based on 3,000 participants), as the individual who best embodies the spirit of British fashion and is an international ambassador for London as a fashion capital. Harry Styles presented her award.
   Celebrity presenters on the night included Kylie Minogue, Naomie Harris, Anna Kendrick and Jeremy Irvine, Liya Kebede, John Galliano, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Naomi Campbell, Suzy Menkes, OBE, Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls and Poppy Delevingne, Kate Moss, and Rita Ora and Nick Grimshaw.
   Victoria Beckham was named the best brand, recognizing her work in distribution, retail, campaigns and ecommerce.
   Cara Delevingne became the Model of the Year, while the Alexander McQueen brand took home the Red Carpet Designer award for creating global awareness of its designs in the media. Sarah Burton collected the award for the Alexander McQueen label from supermodel Moss.
   Preen was the awarded Establishment Designer of the Year with her work in global retail and ecommerce, while Simone Rocha was named the New Establishment Designer, for her impact on the industry.
   Of the awards named earlier, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, OBE, was given the Outstanding Achievement Award for her contribution to the industry. W fashion and style director Edward Enninful won the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and Chris Moore won the Special Recognition Award for his six-decade-long career and contribution to the industry.
   Names to look out for are Marques’Almeida, which won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award, Craig Green, the Emerging Menswear Designer winner, and Prism, the Emerging Accessory Designer winner.
   Nicolas Ghesquière, for Louis Vuitton, was recognized as the non-British designer who helped shape the fashion industry in the past year both in the UK and internationally, with the International Designer award.
   Louis Vuitton was recognized for its advertising in 2014 with the Creative Campaign award.
   The late Prof Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins was also honoured in a special tribute, with looks by designers she had taught, including Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou.
   There were 63 nominees in total for the various categories, with 400 industry members worldwide casting their vote.
   Sponsors for the British Fashion Awards 2014 are Swarovski as principal partner; Canon, MAC, Toni & Guy and Vodafone as presenting sponsors; and American Express, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes-Benz, Penhaligon’s and Rightster. The British Fashion Council also recognizes Fashion Monitor and Harrogate Spa.



Dan Sims

Above, from top Michelle Dockery, and Womenswear Designer of the Year Erdem Moralioglu. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, winner of the Outstanding Achievement Award.

Red carpet highlights

Highlights

Prism: Emerging Accessory Designer

Anya Hindmarch: Accessory Designer of the Year

Marques’Almeida: Emerging Womenswear Designer

Cara Delevingne: Model of the Year

J. W. Anderson: Menswear Designer of the Year

Edward Enninful: Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator

Victoria Beckham: Brand of the Year

Emma Watson: British Style Award

Louis Vuitton: Creative Campaign Award

Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton: International Designer

Alexander McQueen: Red Carpet Designer

Erdem: Womenswear Designer of the Year

Chris Moore: British Fashion Council Special Recognition Award


Doug Rimington/Detune Photography

Above Marques’Almeida is the name to look out for in British fashion, as the label won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards 2014 tonight.


Above This campaign helped net Louis Vuitton the Creative Campaign Award at the British Fashion Awards tonight.

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October 28, 2014

Georgia Alice, Lucy McIntosh, Sly Guild named as finalists for DHL scholarship

Lucire staff/21.09

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Above A design from the Georgia Alice look-book.

Georgia Alice, Lucy McIntosh and Sly Guild are the three finalists for this year’s DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship.
   Judges Dan Gosling (the inaugural winner, seven years ago, as co-founder of Stolen Girlfriends’ Club), John Kelly (Max Fashions), Paul Blomfield (Fashion Industry New Zealand) and Megan Wildermoth (DHL) will judge, and will announce their decision on November 12.
   The winner will receive NZ$10,000 in international freight, along with coaching in freight and logistics. The second prize is NZ$1,500, and the third valued at NZ$500. All will receive export mentoring and a membership from FINZ. For more information, visit www.dhlfashionscholarship.co.nz.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
October 24, 2014

H&M celebrates 10 years of designer collaborations with new book launching November 6

Lucire staff/13.58

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Time has flown: it has been 10 years since Hennes & Mauritz began its designer collaborations, the first with Karl Lagerfeld.
   The company will release a book, The First Ten Years, coinciding with its Alexander Wang x H&M launch on November 6.
   At the time, Lucire called it a move toward ‘attainable luxury': that even at a budget price, customers deserved to look good. It was a move toward democratization, something that had been seen en masse with technology, extended to fashion.
   The first Karl Lagerfeld for H&M collection prompted the designer to say, ‘Taste and looking chic is no longer a question of money or how you spend, but how you create a unique sense of style.’
   H&M’s collaborators have included Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Viktor & Rolf, Roberto Cavalli, Commes des Garcons, Matthew Williamson, Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Lanvin, Versace, Marni, Maison Martin Margiela, Isabel Marant and Alexander Wang.
   The book features imagery from all designers, and will retail for US$34·95, available through select H&M stores in the US. A quarter of the cover price will go to Unicef.
   H&M will begin its celebration with a design retrospective at its flagship 589 Fifth Avenue, New York City store on October 27, with looks from each past designer.
   The store will showcase a new look from the Alexander Wang x H&M collection each day by way of preview.

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October 14, 2014

Peter Copping appointed creative director at Oscar de la Renta

Lucire staff/2.38

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Neil Rasmus/BFANYC.com

Above Oscar de la Renta at the 2013 CFDA Awards, photographed with Sec. Hillary Clinton.

A succession plan appears to be in place at Oscar de la Renta with the appointment of Peter Copping as creative director, a role created for him.
   The company says Copping will report to de la Renta, now 82, and Alex Bolen, its CEO and de la Renta’s stepson-in-law, commencing his role on November 3 and delivering his first collection for autumn–winter 2015 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York in February.
   Copping will handle all product categories at the brand, including bridal and home décor.
   Copping, a graduate of Central St Martin’s, was previously at Sonia Rykiel and Christian Lacroix, then studio director under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, and, most recently, artistic director at Nina Ricci.
   De la Renta’s statement indicated that Copping will eventually succeed him. ‘I’m very happy Peter has agreed to join us. He is a great talent and along with our shared design sensibilities, we both have a deep curiosity about the wider world, from music and art to architecture and gardens. Our industry has not always done the best job when it comes to changes in design leadership. My hope is that, in leading this selection, and actively participating in the transition, I can insure the right design future for our company and brand.’
   Copping said, ‘It is an immense pleasure for me to join Oscar de la Renta as Creative Director in November. After a career of 20 years in Paris, this is an important next step for me. Oscar de la Renta has defined American elegance for generations of women, and the opportunity to work with him and help ensure the future of the brand is very exciting.’
   Oscar de la Renta remains privately held, with annual sales of $150 million.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New York
September 14, 2014

DHL launches 2014’s Fashion Export Scholarship competition

Lucire staff/23.06

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Above Jae Mills of Commoners with models in last year’s competition.

DHL has launched its seventh annual DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship, with entries closing October 10.
   The Scholarship has been known for helping boost New Zealand’s best up-and-coming fashion names, including Stolen Girlfriends’ Club, Lonely Hearts, Twenty-Seven Names and I Love Ugly. Last year’s winner was Commoners.
   Fashion Industry New Zealand chairman Paul Blomfield will head the judging panel with DHL national strategic account manager for fashion and textiles Megan Wildermouth.
   The winner will receive NZ$10,000 in international freight, along with coaching in freight and logistics. The second prize is NZ$1,500, and the third valued at NZ$500. All will receive export mentoring and a membership from FINZ.
   Applicants can head to dhlfashionscholarship.co.nz. The winner will be announced on November 11.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, New Zealand
September 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015: more favourites from the first five days

Lucire staff/20.58

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Through Lucire’s history, there have been a select group of labels that get featured thanks to their consistency of design and their integrity. It’s no coincidence that they are among our favourites over days three through five at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York: BCBG Max Azria, Marissa Webb, Carmen Marc Valvo, Venexiana, Custo Barcelona, Vivienne Tam, Nanette Lepore, Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra. We were impressed with Taoray Wang and have included this designer for the first time in our pages. Lola Cristall leads our post-event coverage.
   Remember you can watch our live player on our home page for coverage from New York as it happens.

BCBG Max Azria


Marissa Webb

Carmen Marc Valvo



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Venexiana


Custo Barcelona


Vivienne Tam



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Nanette Lepore


Carolina Herrera



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Taoray Wang



Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Reem Acra



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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August 28, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day three: Hailwood and Kate Sylvester up the standard

Sopheak Seng/15.11

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Lucire’s fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng and photographer Matthew Beveridge look at day three’s mixed bag of shows.

New Generation
   Vibe: Four up-and-coming designers showcasing what they have to offer the fashion world as the voices of the future.
   Clothes: Like a pick-and-mix bag of lollies, there were some dud and then some great pieces. Overall, the collections seemed forced and not polished enough. Construction of the garments left something to be desired, as there were twisted seams and puckering on most trousers and dresses, and a lack of cohesion in ideas, novelty and innovation. Stand-outs, which were few and far between, were Itzme, with their androgynous take on soft tailoring and sportswear. A bright colour palette of fuchsia, purple and orange showed great potential but was let down by shoddy construction and finishing. Nomsa Mabuto showed a good collection of predominately separates of coats, pants and shell tops in a colour palette of varying shades of green.


Trish Peng
   Vibe: Sportswear for ready-to-wear, gowns and party dresses.
   Clothes: Laser-cut bomber jackets and circle skirts with anoraks and ’80s ruffled off-the-shoulder tops and bright multi-coloured striped pieces. The collection then diverged into party dresses in bright pop colours. This was where the collection was let down: poor fabric and construction choices meant that under the glare of the lights, the gowns didn’t feel luxurious enough—and this was viewed between people’s heads in row B. Also the fits of the gowns on some of the models were not great, either. It is the little details that are often overlooked that add to the polish of a collection.
   Look: directed by L’Oréal Professionnel New Zealand ambassador, Michael Beel, who created an origami-inspired criss-cross weave pattern in the models’ hair, then gathered into a low ponytail. Simple and elegant.

Designer Selection
   Vibe: In-season showcase to consumers. Fun, commercial fashion.
   Clothes: All in-season summer pieces from the 30-odd designers that were showing as part of New Zealand Fashion Week. Think bright, fun, commercial pieces that you could buy off the racks the moment you walked out of the show. The middle section of the show was presented by Woman’s Day, who showed a selective range of garments in red and white styled by Lulu Wilcox, featuring models in turbans and carrying red heart-shaped balloons, reminiscent of a Banksy street art piece. Closing the show was Jockey, who set hearts a-flutter with five All Black players, including Victor Vito, showcasing the spring–summer 2014–15 underwear looks for men, and model Nikki Phillips showing the women’s range.

Hailwood
   Vibe: Wearable streetwear with a glamorous edge. Rock concert chic.
   Clothes: Streetwear-oriented, the collection was denim-heavy but moved into Hailwood’s take on his draped velvet gowns that work for every body shape. The dévoré silks and velvets were great, as were the sequinned jackets and dresses that closed the show. Stand-outs, however, were his denim range and the oversized unicorn motif ponchos. Super-cool, relaxed dressing.
   Look: Dirty, gritty, but pretty. Messy and textural.

Kate Sylvester
   Vibe: Romantic, literary geek chic, celebrating nonchalant luxury and refined classics.
   Clothes: Vintage-inspired with references to menswear and long days in an English countryside, tucked up in your boyfriend’s clothes, his pyjama bottoms or boxers with his robes and shirts. Great masculine-inspired tailoring in regatta stripes and polka dots. Sheer dresses and blouses added a soft romantic air to the collection as did the long Isadora Duncan-style fringe scarves casually draped around the models’ necks. Loved the return of males on the Sylvester runway and stand-outs were the camel trench, open shirt, and striped trousers casually rolled up with brogues. All this romantic vision was helped along by a cascading shower of ripped pages from a book.
   Look: Just rolled out of bed, slightly textural hair with just flushed make-up.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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