Lucire: News


October 1, 2015

Ikea extends itself into fashion: you read it here first last year

Lucire staff/23.16

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September 29’s Ikea Fashion Show at Moda di Milano (hashtagged both #IKEAfashion and #IKEAtemporary) showcased work from two designers who collaborated with the Swedish-founded furniture conglomerate.
   ‘With a number of new collections that have been developed in collaboration with fashion designers, Ikea is stepping into new territory—one from which we can learn a lot,’ according to the company.
   Giltig by Katie Eary and Svärtan by Martin Bergström will see their collections retailed in 2016, but they received a boost in profile thanks to their appearance at one of the top fashion weeks in the world.
   For us, the first thing that came to mind when seeing Ikea fashion was Stefan Engeseth’s (below right) prediction, published in Lucire first last year, and later in, the Daily Mail, The Guardian and Flare, plus a number of newspapers and news websites: that fashion should be Ikea’s next industry.
   At the time, Ikea had no such plans officially, but it isn’t surprising to see another one of Engeseth’s predictions come true. He came up with the idea of Coca-Cola being served through taps at home before Coke itself actually trialled that idea, plus another, over 15 years ago, on how cellphones could connect two strangers, albeit not through an app.
   We wrote: ‘Engeseth says that Ikea’s expertise lends itself easily to the world of apparel …
   ‘He believes that fashion is in a repetitive cycle, stuck in history and needing renewal.
   ‘Ikea could offer both complete apparel items and composite parts that customers could assemble themselves, says Mr Engeseth. The parts could be “tailored” at home in inventive ways without the need for complex sewing.’
   Last year, Lucire publisher Jack Yan added, ‘This taps in to its existing fan base, and just as importantly, Ikea can make full use of its channels, outmanœuvring many existing fashion labels. Ikea has an international retail base and it has distribution down to a fine art.’
   When we asked him about the Ikea show in Milano yesterday, he had his reservations about some of the designs, but stated, ‘It’s good that Ikea takes its first step into fashion, and rewarding to see them developing the concept more now.’
   He was also buoyed by seeing that, after the show, Ikea’s official Twitter account went back to his blog post late last year about Ikea fashion, and “favourited” a Tweet about it. Engeseth even preempted the hashtag used back in 2014.
   There’s no sign that Ikea fashion will be in a composite format, ready for its customers to assemble, but Engeseth appears to have been right that the brand would extend itself into the new segment.

September 17, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring-summer 2016, Day 7 videos: Hugo Boss, Michael Kors, Anna Sui

Alex Barrow/12.24

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With Jason Wu as the creative director of Hugo Boss womenswear, his creative flair was evident in this season’s New York Fashion Week. Using long sleek garments to accentuate and celebrate the female form, the collection was made up of fairly plain garments, each with its own sense of ambiance. These included feathered skirts, eye-catching prints, various necklines and an array of fabrics. Crisp colours allowed for the creative features to shine through, accentuating the beauty of subtlety in fashion.
   The packed audience at Michael Kors’s show indicates how celebrated and anticipated this collection was this season. A noticeable feature resonating throughout his pieces were red and blue poppies, featuring either on prints or as physical sewn-on features. Another common style was the box pleat, presented in flaps on both skirts and dresses. Kors’s inspiration drew from ‘earthly elegance’, clothes that have a down-to-earth appeal while still maintaining a classy presence.
   Anna Sui’s collection drew heavily from a tropical Hawaiian theme this year, captured in both the clothes and the elaborate set. However, she incorporated various undertones, most surprisingly a radical punk sub-theme with harsh black tones, tattoo-style sleeves, pin-up patches on bomber jackets and sequinned tassels. The collection altered dramatically and unpredictably throughout the show, yet it maintained the Hawaiian essence.
   Also on the official calendar for day seven were Suno, Thomas Wylde, Stella Nolasco, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, J. Crew, Greg Lauren and Demoo Parkchoonmoo.—Alex Barrow

Hugo Boss Women’s

Michael Kors

Anna Sui


Thomas Wylde

Naeem Khan

Bibhu Mohapatra

Greg Lauren

Filed under: Lucire
September 15, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 6 videos: Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Diesel Black Gold

Alex Barrow/22.22

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Not one to shy away from obscure designs, Vera Wang experiments with lingerie paired with heavy overcoats to open her collection this year. Bandeau-style bras are a recurring feature, teamed with various high-waist garments. Wang uses mostly heavy black for each garment; however, in various outfits a burst of glitter features, breaking up the heaviness of the collection. As the show develops blush coral contrasts starkly with the previous pieces; these pieces are a welcome adjustment. Wang’s inspiration is drawn from the sensual Belle du Jour, which can be seen in the independent, strongly feminine styles of the garments
   The Diesel Black Gold collection was essentially inspired by the heavy rock–biker style with black-and-white cottons vamped up with various radical features. Heavy leathers, silver studs, cut-outs and crisp square cuts were refashioned time and time again throughout the show. Diesel used these iconic rocker staples and made them their own—an impressive feat considering the popularity these styles have had over the last few years.
   With the upcoming first anniversary of the passing of the label’s cherished namesake, the designers of Oscar de la Renta had a lot to prove with their first New York Fashion Week show without the founder’s expert oversight. However, they went over and above with the spring–summer 2016 collection. Drawing inspiration from classical Sicilian elegance, the floral and feminine collection radiates with an air of class and creative originality, a trait made the company’s own by de la Renta.
   Also showing on day six were Badgley Mischka, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Carmen Marc Valvo, and the Art Institutes, among others.—Alex Barrow

Vera Wang

Diesel Black Gold

Oscar de la Renta

Badgley Mischka

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Carmen Marc Valvo

The Art Institutes

September 14, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 5 videos: Tommy Hilfiger, Jeremy Scott, 3·1 Phillip Lim

Alex Barrow/23.15

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Jeremy Scott’s collection was brilliantly designed to transport the audience to the fast-lane fashion lifestyles of ’60s mods. With puffy curled hair dos, bright radical colours and prints, popping make-up, shapeless mini-dresses, and Latex- and sequin-saturated dresses, Scott no doubt achieved the essence of the blast from the past. The collection is a colourful combination of pop art and the fun and flirty free love of the ’sixties, demonstrating the quirky creativity Jeremy Scott’s designs have become notorious for.
   Phillip Lim’s show grabbed attention with the stage layout. With a large square catwalk interrupted by mountainous dirt pyramids seemingly placed arbitrarily, Lim is clearly looking to portray a wholly æsthetic appeal. With both soft and deep khakis resonating throughout the 3·1 Phillip Lim spring–summer 2016 collection’s designs, the adventurous tone is further accentuated by his safari-style wide trousers and shorts, heavy coats and fluid leather jackets, paired with long head ribbons. The set and the designs are perfectly compatible, setting the scene for Lim’s inspiration.
   Tommy Hilfiger’s collection, based on beachy Carribean themes, became an all-encompassing event with the set design depicting a fiery sunset and a water expanse inset in the catwalk. This collection presented mostly colourful swimwear and garments boasting bold tropical prints. Long bohemian maxi dresses were common, as well as colourful stripes typical of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear.
   Also on the day five calendar were Lela Rose, Taoray Wang, Reem Acra, Libertine and Vivienne Tam. Lola Cristall will have her detailed wrap-up from New York Fashion Week later.—Alex Barrow

Jeremy Scott

3·1 Phillip Lim

Tommy Hilfiger

Lela Rose

Taoray Wang

Reem Acra


Vivienne Tam

September 12, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 3 videos: Son Jung Wan, Hervé Léger, Rebecca Minkoff, Monique Lhuillier

Alex Barrow/23.50

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Son Jung Wan’s spring–summer 2016 collection was made up of severely structured pieces with a low-key colour palette. Metallic features stood out in the forms of colour-contrasting footwear, metallic zippers or merely singular stripe features on the garments. As the show developed, the initial crisp white of the clothing developed in colour, using tones of bubble-gum pink, dusky rose and grape, while still maintaining the stark structures of the garments.
   With a nautical theme in this season’s NYFW collection, Lacoste used red white and blue in their sporty style designs. With a resonating urban theme evident in their oversized shirts, sailor shorts and visa caps, the target audience indicated a youthful sailor style.
   Celebrating the feminine figure, the Hervé Léger collection is filled with short, form-fitting dresses which are defined with extensive pattern work over a typically white palette. Patterns include floral grids, metallic work and beading, all used to flatter the female figure.
   Other notable designers which presented their collections on Day 3 were Noon by Noor, Rebecca Minkoff, Mara Hoffman, Francesca Liberatore, Monique Lhuillier, Misha Nonoo, Banana Republic and Alexander Wang, as well as several others.—Alex Barrow

Son Jung Wan


Hervé Léger

Noon by Noor

Rebecca Minkoff

Mara Hoffman

Francesca Liberatore

Monique Lhuillier

September 11, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 2 videos: Givenchy, Jason Wu, Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller, Zang Toi

Alex Barrow/23.14

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Givenchy captures the trademark flair that has been evident through previous years of work. At this year’s spring–summer 2016 fashion show, inspiration for the collection was drawn from the delicate mystery of nightwear. Black and white silks with laced camisole-like features were teamed with heavy thick robes to capture the essence of the evening. As the collection developed, the styles took a radical turn towards elaborate, exotic pieces teamed with equally exaggerated headdresses, typical of Givenchy models. In menswear, heavy suits were contrasted with unusual cropped cutout shirts. Throughout the show the black and white them resonated.
   Jason Wu’s collection seems to lack any direct channel of inspiration with different fabrics and styles in his spring–summer 2016 collection. With a noticeable colour palette of red and teal, Wu’s collection experiments with chiffon, lace, tulle, knits, silks and leathers to create a wide appealing æsthetic collection. With the occasional collaboration of contrasting fabrics in one outfit, Wu’s abilities are no doubt in good form for this year’s fashion week.
   Betsey Johnson’s collection is in a complete league of its own, with its kooky carnival meets punks meets rainbow radical appeal. Elaborate tulle dresses with colour-popping accessories and contrasting patterns make up the collection. Johnson’s vision is clearly one of playing with fashion and testing the boundaries.
   Other designers which showed their collections on Day 2 included Zimmerman, Wes Gordon, Kate Spade, Custo Barcelona, Yigal Azrouël, Pamella Roland, Nicole Miller, CG, Zang Toi, Idan Cohen, Karigam, and Kye.—Alex Barrow


Jason Wu

Betsey Johnson

Idan Cohen



Nicole Miller

Zang Toi

September 10, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 1 videos: BCBG, Erin Fetherston, Tadashi Shoji

Alex Barrow/23.16

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BCBG Max Azria presented their collection on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week with a hippy flair of contrasting textures, colours, and prints. With a trending theme of bucket hats and chunky leg warmers, teamed with clashing layers of various clothes, the disheveled look was surprisingly effective.
   Erin Fetherston’s collection encompassed the epitome of romance and femininity. With floaty fabrics and pastel hues, as well as downplayed bohemian patterns, the collection played with the romance of ’40s fashion and the flower power of the ’60s and ’70s. The overarching tone however suggested innocence, playfulness and romance.
   Tadashi Shoji’s designs, too, place heavy emphasis on the beauty of floaty fabric. This collection focuses on the fabrics rather than necessarily on the shape of those wearing them. Embroidered silks, textured fabrics and long floral feature gowns are dominant in the collection. Romantic long pastel pieces tend to be a focus point, made ever more beautiful by the minimal styled hair and natural make-up of the models.
   Other designers which presented their collections on Day 1 were Tome, Desigual, Nicholas K, Ohne Titel and Kids Rock.—Alex Barrow


Erin Fetherston

Tadashi Shoji



Nicholas K

Ohne Titel

Kids Rock

May 19, 2015

News in brief: Taylor Swift’s Tiger ring; Otis College’s 33rd fashion show; Swiss retails limited-edition Partime watch

Lola Cristall/14.03

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Jason Merritt

One of our favourite items from Carrera y Carrera, the Tiger ring, appeared on the finger of Taylor Swift at the Billboard Music Awards at the weekend. The Madrid-based jewellery company noted that Swift, presenting her new music video for ‘Bad Blood’, wore the ring in white gold, smoky quartz and diamonds from the Bestiario collection with her white cut-out jumpsuit. Madonna, Jennifer López, and Olivia Palermo have chosen the Tiger ring in the past.
   Otis College of Art and Design’s 33rd annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show at the Beverly Hilton Hotel was a lavish escape, revolving around the theme, A Celebration of Water. This year’s honorees include Carlos Alberini, the chief executive of Lucky Brand, designer Trina Turk, and Gary Schoenfeld, the president and CEO of PacSun. Mentors included: Bob Mackie, Trina Turk, Zaid Affas, Joe McCarty for Lane Bryant, Liliana Casabal for Morgane Le Fay, Mary Jo Bruno, Anne Cole, Isobella & Chloe, Heather Brown for PacSun, Ryan Keenan for Quiksilver, Alan Hardy for DC, Kesha Pomeroy for Roxy, and Urban Outfitters. Year after year, the event reflects the students’ hard work and approach to the fashion industry while being guided by a number of professional designers. Student Jessica Choi was recognized as Designer of the Year. Guests gathered to watch 100 ensembles take centre-stage.
   Finally, Swiss International Airlines is retailing a special Partime watch from June as part of its duty-free range this summer. Available only on board Swiss flights, the Partime watch is a limited edition, joining the 11 other models already offered. The complete collection will also be shown at the China Watch & Clock Fair in Shenzhen from June 25 to 28. (A video of the Partime’s movement can be seen at the bottom of this article.)—Lola Cristall, Paris editor, and Lucire staff

Kai He; courtesy Otis College of Art and Design

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