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February 24, 2015

The wonderment of Flow

Tamara Madison/12.46

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There’s nothing like a carefully plated delicious meal that will get conversation started at the dinner table. Food generally brings families and friends together, and like food, fashion tends to gather hungry crowds just the same. A room full of thirsty appetites, whether desiring a glass of shiraz or craving a fresh take on classic silhouettes is all digested best with a dose of sustenance.
   Flow, a burgeoning fashion label founded by two sisters, Victoria and Veronika, understands how to design in harmony. Their Belgian–Ukrainian label, not to be confused with the Malaysia-based clothing retailer of the same name, embodies the art of creating just the right amount of what the Swedes call lagom, and it shows throughout their collections.
   Pieces are not overly designed. Instead, garments are braised predominantly in pure silk and cotton, then enriched by colour or finishing shape. The sisters experiment with volume, whilst using the unconventional as an undercurrent in designing. The result is a pensive (spring–summer 2015) collection full of playful prints with child-like embraces, Japanese-inspired shapes, and a modern perspective on sportswear.
   The designing pair has managed to produce a smörgĂĄsbord of distinct and charming garments to satiate fashion palates, especially if it favours edgy, artful, and quirky styles. Nonetheless, the pleasant appeal of a Flow garment might also be the fact that it can be worn by diverse women. ‘The most essential is to have that “special something” inside of you. That feminine, sensitive and elegant, yet kindly ironic thing that is very Flow. It is more about chemistry and common wit,’ the designers said, regarding the Flow woman.
   So, what’s the secret to the flourishing brand? Well, their approach to design is much like a gourmet recipe, using key ingredients to craft a tasty and well balanced dish to savour. Their main course is just also served with a side of passion, meticulousness, and confidence. And, like your grandmother’s recipe secrets, when it comes to the artful process, they prefer to keep it close to home.
   In fact, the sisters are involved in all aspects of the design process. However, having just under a dozen people in their design team certainly helps. ‘When we seek new co-workers, we primarily seek professionals who can become new members of the family. Creation of a collection is a group process and mutual understanding has great influence on the result,’ the designers confessed.
   In their spring–summer 2015 collection, you will see a palette of red, white, and blue with accented colours that look as vivid as a fresh floral bouquet. Pieces like the pyjama-esque silk garment with kookaburra bird drawings are eye-catching. The line is full of sprightly, sophisticated sportswear with a contemporary gracefulness that’s hard to ignore. But, that’s mostly because of the designer’s underlining influence, including the Ĺ“uvres of Niko Pirosmani and Ivan Semesyuk. ‘The spirit [of the line] is childish and patrician at the same time,’ the designers said.
   Flow’s offerings come in a range of styles, with pieces that can easily be translated into workwear, or casual elegance for the avant-garde art enthusiast. There are silhouettes for the classic fashion darling, as well as separates that exemplify opulence at its very core. The designers have fused a nourishing concoction of culture and art, creating a smart fashion paella, all which seems to give them a discerning compound of depth and simplicity.
   The young brand’s maturity in execution and outlook is well seasoned. And, with only a handful of collections under their belt, there’s much that they have already learned from having a fashion business. ‘It requires lots of time and enormous sources of energy … true fashion is always about the dream, the feeling, and the humanly approach,’ Flow said.
   You may view Flow’s upcoming autumn-winter collection at the BeNext showroom during this Paris fashion week, and at the TranoĂŻ exhibition shown in Milano.
   For more information, visit www.flowthelabel.com.—Tamara Madison



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February 20, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 6 and 7: glamour and soft palettes

Lucire staff/23.16

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Dan Lecca

Above Lie Sangbong’s autumn–winter 2015–16 looks, which also feature in Lola Cristall’s forthcoming New York report.

Our final clips before Lola Cristall’s Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week report for the fall–winter 2015–16 collections are below, with videos from Michael Kors, Jenny Packham, Zang Toi, Lupe Gajardo, the Art Institutes, Bibhu Mohapatra, Lie Sangbong, Francesca Liberatore, Leanne Marshall, Thomas Wylde, Anna Sui, Erin Fetherston, Iijin, Malan Breton, Tokyo Runway, Sergio Davila, Dorin Negrau and AmFAR.
   Our London Fashion Week live player is currently on our home page. On the main part of the site, NYC beauty editor Jamie Dorman has her picks for skin-like foundations, while publisher Jack Yan samples the Peugeot 308 Allure Blue HDi in our ‘Living’ section.

Michael Kors

Jenny Packham

Zang Toi

Lupe Gajardo

The Art Institutes

Bibhu Mohapatra

Lie Sangbong

Francesca Liberatore

Leanne Marshall

Thomas Wylde

Anna Sui

Erin Fetherston

Iijin

Malan Breton

Tokyo Runway

Sergio Davila

Dorin Negrau

AmFAR

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February 18, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, day 5: from romantic silks to Taoray Wang’s dramatic style

Lucire staff/1.58

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Above Vivienne Tam’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection paid respect not only to Tam’s Chinese culture but the occidental interpretation of it in chinoiserie. (Courtesy Vivienne Tam; photographed by Dan Lecca.)

Day five of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was the biggest day of the week, as we showcase videos from the fall–winter 2015–16 collections below from Parkchoonmoo, Carolina Herrera, La Petite Robe, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Prabal Gurung, Vivienne Tam, Libertine, Badgley Mischka, J. Crew, Lela Rose, Naeem Khan, Michael Costello, and Skingraft. Taoray Wang, Oudifu and Georgine appear on our pages for the first time.
   Carolina Herrera showed an aquatic-themed collection with wool and organza, with blues and greys. Chiara Boni’s La Petite Robe got us into the Italian mood with classic songs played as the audience arrived, and through the show itself, with ‘VolarĂ©’ and ‘’O Sole Mio’, displaying a creative use of stretch jersey and sheer fabrics. Reem Acra went romantic with embellishments, layers and lace, with blacks, reds and golds; Vivienne Tam also used lace to good effect with her collection, along with rich, floral patterns evoking chinoiserie and Victorian costume.
   Taoray Wang, helming a label that first appeared for the spring–summer 2015 catwalks, was a pleasant surprise, with her sense of drama and volume: statement coats, big collars, turtle necks, dotted prints and angular shapes made us sit up and notice, and we believe she’s a label to watch out for. This was a classic winter collection that we believe will hit the mark well when autumn hits the US. Georgine used plenty of metallic, shimmering fabrics as it took us back to the second half of the 1970s.
   A more comprehensive report led by Paris editor Lola Cristall will appear in an upcoming issue of Lucire.

Parkchoonmoo

Carolina Herrera

La Petite Robe

Taoray Wang

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Pamella Roland

Reem Acra

Prabal Gurung

Vivienne Tam

Libertine

Oudifu

Badgley Mischka

Georgine

J. Crew

Lela Rose

Naeem Khan

Michael Costello

Skingraft

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February 15, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 3 and 4: vibrant and embellished

Eleanor Wright/23.19

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Above Custo Barcelona’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York (courtesy the designer and Getty Images).

Noon by Noor’s fall–winter 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York delivered a stunning display of clean forms and exquisitely shaped silhouettes. Composed in a dark palette featuring monochromatic textures and materials with delicate pops of gold, silver, purple and sparkling embellishments, this latest line is a testament to creativity and coherence.
   Son Jung Wan divulges into a realm of purple, blue, grey, gold and red to deliver a spectacular range of looks featuring glistening gowns, fur-embellished sleeves, treated metallic fabrics and skilfully structured jackets. Each piece makes a statement that dares to be different and each look perpetuates an individuality stemming from thematic inspiration.
   David Tlale’s collection for New York Fashion Week is absolutely mesmerizing with soft forms and earthy tones. The palette resonates with deep grey, light browns, soft creams and gold in contrast with the sultry flow of the fabrics and the fluid compositions of the designs.
   Ranfan demonstrates that orange is definitely the new black with a vibrant collection of rich orange, yellow, red and pinks offset with cool hues of grey, blue, white and black compositions. Geometric floral prints, fur and shimmering fabrics are featured throughout this eclectic line conveying a strong ethereal presence in each look.
   The Custo Barcelona collection, Shake Before Use, composed a myriad of their signature intricate detailing through designs, patterns, forms and textures across their collection. A carefully articulated blend of plaid, tweed, fur, metallic, geometric graphics and many more styles clash together in effortless unity.—Eleanor Wright

Nicole Miller

Monique Lhuillier

Lacoste

Noon by Noor

Son Jung Wan

Hervé Léger

Mara Hoffman

Venexiana

Vivienne Hu

Ranfan

David Tlale

Carmen Marc Valvo

Custo Barcelona

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February 13, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, fall–winter 2015–16, days 1 and 2: from elegance to fringes

Eleanor Wright/18.59

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Above Rebecca Minkoff, fall–winter 2015–16, at New York Fashion Week.

Paris editor Lola Cristall will lead our Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York coverage for fall–winter 2015–16. In the meantime, here is a selection of videos from the first two days of the event.
   Our expandable live player can be found on our home page, and below.
   The words divine, graceful and dream-like do not begin to describe the glamorous wonderland that Tadashi Shoji’s collection belong in. From everyday pieces to evening gowns every look emerges with timeless tranquility and ethereal elegance. In black and white, purple and green, tulle or silk, embellished or translucent each piece expresses a unity between art and femininity through minimalist detail and flawless silhouettes.
   BCBG Max Azria, always a favourite of ours each New York Fashion Week, showed a collection with wonderful statement patchwork coats, along with romantic dresses, with details (including the leather trim) and prints inspired by beading and handcrafts.
   Rebecca Minkoff channelled a 1970s vibe with a collection inspired by Patti Smith, with fringe (of all lengths), leather, suede, wool, and knee-high boots, all while managing to look light, thanks to the mixture of fabrics and decent styling. We loved the jackets and vests, neatly layered, as well as the long Sherpa coats. Blacks, whites and browns all made appearances, the last colour reminding us how in that decade, brown could be made to look fashionable—and Minkoff did just that with her boho chic fall collection.—Eleanor Wright, with Lucire staff

Live player

Nicholas K

Tadashi Shoji

Desigual

BCBG Max Azria

Todd Snyder

Mark & Estel

Rebecca Minkoff

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January 16, 2015

February’s Spark Lab gives Kiwis direct access to fashion industry names

Lucire staff/2.21

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Spark, having rebranded from Telecom New Zealand, is giving itself a fresh start in 2015 by connecting to the world of fashion. Spark Lab will host 14 free events from the fashion industry in Britomart, Auckland, hosted by the likes of Zambesi, Levi’s, Juliette Hogan, Huffer, Crane Brothers, I Love Ugly, MAC, AUT and Showroom 22.
   Spark Lab’s intent is to share creative ideas with all New Zealanders, providing them with first-hand access to mentors.
   It is open to non-customers and follows on with its Music Month from November 2014. RSVPs are open now, and the full timetable can be seen at www.spark.co.nz/sparklab.

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December 11, 2014

Unbridled creativity at Raffles College of Design’s Perspective graduate show

Lucire staff/13.36

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The 2014 graduate show from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce, titled Perspective, took place in the big top of the iconic Luna Park in Sydney on December 9.
   The location could not have been more idyllic, and the weather, which has been very stormy of late, held, allowing all guests and designers to make their way to the show.
   It is almost impossible to make comment about all 30 graduates but having an eye for trend, I can say that there was a yearning felt through a sizeable portion of the work presented to embrace all things Mother Nature, in all her textures and colours: escapism, easier living, freedom and expressionism. There were 30 capsule collections consisting of six looks each.
   The show was opened by Queency Yustiawan, inspired by the work of Russian painter Kazimir Malevich. A dramatic black-and-white dress coat was the pièce de rĂ©sistance and reminded me of a bicolour paper plane. I was impressed with the tailoring of the piece.

Below Queency Yustiawan.


   Good tailoring has been spotted across much of the collections showed, which speaks volumes about the college they are graduating from. What I thought was a dying skill, cherished by very few nowadays, has hope.
   My total stand-out was the capsule by Ashleigh Kwong, which displayed pared-back elegance, fresh and interesting prints and shapes, and wearability. There was a little white trapeze dress with a blue print that I would happily wear any time.

Below The stand-out for Lucire’s Viviana Pannell was the capsule collection by Ashleigh Kwong.


   In the glamour department, Shannon Gambino was a shining star, and so was Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van, with her royal blue obsession. Her inspiration reminded me slightly of Toni Maticevski and my favourite piece was a little single-shoulder cocktail dress featuring delicate, layered ruffles. Also notable in this department was Lily Purkiss, who presented a capsule of delicate sheers covering shorter layers: utter purity and elegance. Hailing all the way from Italy, Daniela Monica Da Rui presented a capsule inspired by German expressionism, femmes fatales and film noir. She captured her brief very well as one of the pieces, an elegant black dress appliquĂ©d with sculptural black twigs, made me think of a fairy tale with the iconic Marlene Dietrich playing the lead. Christine Milanja, with her elegant and demurely sexy capsule, also deserves a mention.

Below Shannon Gambino.


Below A royal blue obsession from Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van.
Below Lily Purkiss.
Below Italian designer, Daniela Monica da Rui.
Below Christine Milanja.
   High on wearability were Molly Ya Jung Wu with her pared-down capsule exhibiting very interesting cuts. Rishella Lisha Liang presented a capsule of more wearable menswear and resort-like womenswear featuring appliquĂ©s.
   The best menswear, to my mind, was presented by Noal Yam Gurung. Xtra Senquan Ruan presented an interesting combination of interlocking shapes and draping.

Below Molly Ya Jung Wu.


Below Rishella Lisha Liang, featuring wearable menswear.
Below Noal Yam Gurung created the best menswear of the show.
Below Xtra Senquan Ruan.
   It was a beautiful show and I expect to see much more from these graduates. I just love to see unbridled creativity not yet contaminated by commercial realities and the utter need to push prices down in today’s world. Good things are worth paying a nice sum for and are treasured forever. Some of what I saw could be produced and placed into stores tomorrow.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend
December 1, 2014

Video from British Fashion Awards 2014: Erdem, J. W. Anderson take top honours; Emma Watson tops vote

Lucire staff/23.42

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Dan Sims

Above, from top Poppy Delevingne, Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Cara Delevingne, Model of the Year. Victoria Beckham, winning Brand of the Year. Emma Watson, who won the British Style Award.

Before an audience of 2,070 at the London Coliseum, the 2014 British Fashion Awards have seen Erdem and J. W. Anderson take out the coveted prizes of Womenswear Designer of the Year and Menswear Designer of the Year respectively. Anya Hindmarch was named the Accessories’ Designer of the Year.
   Actress Michelle Dockery, racing driver Lewis Hamilton, and models KarolĂ­na Kurková and Eva Herzigová, presented the much-awaited top three awards of the night.
   Actress Emma Watson won the British Style Award in a public vote (based on 3,000 participants), as the individual who best embodies the spirit of British fashion and is an international ambassador for London as a fashion capital. Harry Styles presented her award.
   Celebrity presenters on the night included Kylie Minogue, Naomie Harris, Anna Kendrick and Jeremy Irvine, Liya Kebede, John Galliano, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Naomi Campbell, Suzy Menkes, OBE, Karlie Kloss, Joan Smalls and Poppy Delevingne, Kate Moss, and Rita Ora and Nick Grimshaw.
   Victoria Beckham was named the best brand, recognizing her work in distribution, retail, campaigns and ecommerce.
   Cara Delevingne became the Model of the Year, while the Alexander McQueen brand took home the Red Carpet Designer award for creating global awareness of its designs in the media. Sarah Burton collected the award for the Alexander McQueen label from supermodel Moss.
   Preen was the awarded Establishment Designer of the Year with her work in global retail and ecommerce, while Simone Rocha was named the New Establishment Designer, for her impact on the industry.
   Of the awards named earlier, Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, OBE, was given the Outstanding Achievement Award for her contribution to the industry. W fashion and style director Edward Enninful won the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and Chris Moore won the Special Recognition Award for his six-decade-long career and contribution to the industry.
   Names to look out for are Marques’Almeida, which won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award, Craig Green, the Emerging Menswear Designer winner, and Prism, the Emerging Accessory Designer winner.
   Nicolas Ghesquière, for Louis Vuitton, was recognized as the non-British designer who helped shape the fashion industry in the past year both in the UK and internationally, with the International Designer award.
   Louis Vuitton was recognized for its advertising in 2014 with the Creative Campaign award.
   The late Prof Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins was also honoured in a special tribute, with looks by designers she had taught, including Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou.
   There were 63 nominees in total for the various categories, with 400 industry members worldwide casting their vote.
   Sponsors for the British Fashion Awards 2014 are Swarovski as principal partner; Canon, MAC, Toni & Guy and Vodafone as presenting sponsors; and American Express, Marks & Spencer, Mercedes-Benz, Penhaligon’s and Rightster. The British Fashion Council also recognizes Fashion Monitor and Harrogate Spa.



Dan Sims

Above, from top Michelle Dockery, and Womenswear Designer of the Year Erdem Moralioglu. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, winner of the Outstanding Achievement Award.

Red carpet highlights

Highlights

Prism: Emerging Accessory Designer

Anya Hindmarch: Accessory Designer of the Year

Marques’Almeida: Emerging Womenswear Designer

Cara Delevingne: Model of the Year

J. W. Anderson: Menswear Designer of the Year

Edward Enninful: Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator

Victoria Beckham: Brand of the Year

Emma Watson: British Style Award

Louis Vuitton: Creative Campaign Award

Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton: International Designer

Alexander McQueen: Red Carpet Designer

Erdem: Womenswear Designer of the Year

Chris Moore: British Fashion Council Special Recognition Award


Doug Rimington/Detune Photography

Above Marques’Almeida is the name to look out for in British fashion, as the label won the Emerging Womenswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards 2014 tonight.


Above This campaign helped net Louis Vuitton the Creative Campaign Award at the British Fashion Awards tonight.

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