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Riccardo Tisci leaves Givenchy; autumn–winter 2017–18 prêt-à-porter format unknown


NEWS  by Lucire staff/February 2, 2017/6.31


Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Biener

Above: From Givenchy’s spring–summer 2017 haute couture collection, which, along with its menswear shown in January, was Riccardo Tisci’s last for the brand.

Women’s Wear Daily has broken the news that Riccardo Tisci has left Givenchy.
   Tisci’s last collections for the brand were his menswear and haute couture ones, shown in Paris in January. He departed at the end of the month amicably, according to the trade newspaper.
   His final designs for Givenchy will be red-carpet ones for the Grammy Awards and the Oscars.
   WWD speculates that Tisci could be heading to Versace.
   As a result of his departure, Givenchy will not have a runway show at Paris Fashion Week, and the autumn–winter 2017–18 collection will be designed by the studio.
   No successor has been named.
   Bernard Arnault, CEO of Givenchy parent company LVMH, stated, ‘The chapter Riccardo Tisci has written with the house of Givenchy over the last 12 years represents an incredible vision to sustain its continuous success, and I would like to warmly thank him for his core contribution to the house’s development.’
   Tisci said, ‘I want to thank the LVMH group and M. Bernard Arnault for giving me the platform to express my creativity over the years. I now wish to focus on my personal interests and passions.’

Filed under: fashion, Lucire, Paris

Documentary series coinciding with Christian Dior’s 70th anniversary starting February 9 on More4


NEWS  by Lucire staff/February 1, 2017/21.50



Top: Maria Grazia Chiuri takes a bow after her first collection. Above: From the archives, Christian Dior himself measuring a model.

With Christian Dior celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, with a feature appearing in an upcoming Lucire and an exhibition at the NGV, it’s the perfect time to take a look back at one of France’s (and fashion’s) most storied names.
   More4 will broadcast a two-part series in the lead-up to London Fashion Week, called Inside Dior, an observational documentary airing on Thursday, February 9 at 9 p.m., and the following week on February 16 at 9 p.m.
   From a house that began with one head designer, and his pioneering New Look, to a billion-dollar brand, the series examines Dior’s past and present.
   The first episode begins with a star-studded party at Christian Dior’s restored summer mansion, La Colle Noire, outside Grasse in the south of France, hosted by Charlize Theron. The Dior cruise 2017 show at Blenheim Palace and a haute couture show form the core of the episode, with behind-the-scenes footage of Dior staff getting ready for the shows, and clients who are entertained at opulent, formal dinners in Paris. It also deals with the company’s search for a new creative director to replace Raf Simons.
   The second episode follows Dior’s first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, preparing for her first collection at Paris Fashion Week (noted in Lucire issue 36). It also looks at Christian Dior’s beauty business, examining François Demachy, the company’s nose, on creating a Dior perfume, and Peter Philips, its make-up director, on creating a catwalk look. The episode ends as celebrities Kate Moss, Rihanna, and Natalie Portman arrive along with the world’s press at Chiuri’s first Dior spring 2017 catwalk show.


Above: Bella Hadid and other models walk at the conclusion of the Dior cruise 2017 show.

H&M Studio teases spring–summer 2017 women’s and men’s ahead of Paris Fashion Week début


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 27, 2017/5.58

As in previous years (click here for 2014, and here for 2016), H&M Studio will show a collection during the autumn–winter prêt-à-porter shows at Paris Fashion Week, but this time, it’ll be for spring–summer 2017—and it’ll go on sale the next day.
   Hennes & Mauritz has teased the men’s and women’s collections ahead of their public début on March 1.
   The collections show a muted colour palette of black and white, punctuated with items in a bright fuchsia–pink shade. H&M is looking forward to a relaxed spring, with sheer fabrics as well as leather. One women’s print features the word ‘Love’ in small white letters on black stripes; dresses are full and voluminous, and ruffles give a bohemian look. The men’s looks are androgynous, including headbands, sheer sleeves and hoods, long coats, thin collars, and, for the man who dares have colour in his life, the same pink tone is available. (See Lucire Men for a preview of the men’s designs.)
   The Swedish retailer will also launch H&M Studio Kids. Images of that collection go live on February 7.

Chanel shows off spring–summer 2017 haute couture, with Lily-Rose Depp as the bride


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/January 25, 2017/0.37

On January 24, Chanel released its spring–summer 2017 haute couture collection. House ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Anna Mouglalis, Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, G-Dragon and Shin Hye Park, singer Cécile Cassel, English actresses Lucy Boynton and Ellie Bamber, Chinese model Liu Wen, as well as French actresses Diane Rouxel, Laura Smet, Olga Kurylenko, Sigrid Bouaziz, Anamaria Vartolomei, Céline Sallette, Anne Berest and Karidja Touré were all present at the Grand Palais.
   The collection’s look was all about a crazy femininity: structured shoulders, straight or tubular lines, defined and slightly raised waists. Alongside major hues of white, silver and grey, the palette moved from beige, pink, yellow, blue and pastel green through to black and navy.
   The show began with crisp tweed suits with clean couture lines, pleated and belted in toned-down but vibrant colours. Some of the suits had elegant tied bows around the neck in bold. From there, the show continued with a scene of silver silhouettes, adorned with feathers, sequins and glitter.
   The last segment of the show continued with slimmer dresses and skirts, many of which were polished by light pink and silver ostrich feathers on their linings. Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2017 couture show grand finalé was Lily-Rose Depp, the face of Chanel No. 5, in a pink bridal gown with ruffled sleeves and skirt that left everyone in awe.—Nathalia Archila

Filed under: Lucire

In brief: Belstaff shows autumn–winter 2017–18; Chanel previews spring ’17 advertising


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 10, 2017/19.25




Belstaff

Belstaff has shown its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection in London, for both men and women. The Jolly Roger collection, inspired by World War II Royal Navy uniforms, even has vintage wax treatments on some designs to give them a worn look. Belstaff notes that the pea and duffle coats have been re-created, while the parka is based on a Belstaff design created for the British military in 1960. Creative Director Delphine Ninous said, ‘The formal naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks. This sense of temporary escapism is reflected in edgier elements such as naval tattoo designs and the Jolly Roger flag, giving a sense of rebellion and individuality.’ Tones are red, brown, blue and military green; base colours are charcoal grey, black and navy, with highlights in spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.



Belstaff

   Meanwhile, Chanel has previewed its advertising campaign for its spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter collection. The campaign itself has been overseen by Karl Lagerfeld, with contrast at its core. A pop Lolita metamorphoses into a cyberpunk; a tweed jacket has an electronic circuit board as a motif; an off-white silk and lace coat covers a black babydoll. There’s a startling modernity to the images, tying in to the Data Center Chanel catwalk show in Paris last October, which saw high-tech meet the 1990s.









Chanel

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne in Chanel bag campaign


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 5, 2017/10.06

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne will appear in Chanel’s new campaign for its Gabrielle bag. The new advertisements break April 3.
   All four have links to Chanel, either as campaign faces over the years, or, in the case of de Maigret, having a friendship with Karl Lagerfeld.
   The Gabrielle bag was first shown at the house’s spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter catwalk show. The bag has a thermo-formed base, a light calfskin body, and a double chain in leather with golden and silver metal. The look was inspired by the shape of augmented reality glasses, and by the binocular cases seen at racecourses.
   In creating the Gabrielle, Lagerfeld pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s 1955 original handbag.

Alicia Aylies, Miss Guyane, wins Miss France 2017


NEWS  by Lucire staff/December 17, 2016/23.20


TF1/SIPA Press/Bertrand Noël


Via Alicia Aylies/Twitter

Alicia Aylies, Miss Guyane, has been crowned Miss France 2017. She is 18 years old, and a first-year law student.
   Vaea Ferrand, Miss Tahiti, was runner-up, with Morgane Thérésine, Miss Guadeloupe, second-runner-up. Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine) came fourth.
   The competition was held at the Montpellier exhibition centre, as the jury and the public found a successor for Miss France 2016 Iris Mittenaere, with live coverage on TF1. Jean-Pierre Foucault hosted the ceremony for the 22nd time.
   Thirty regional winners were selected during the past year to compete for the title of Miss France 2017. Twelve had been preselected by the jury, this year chaired by actress Arielle Dombasle, who replaces Jean Paul Gaultier.
   These 12 were Meggy Pyaneeandee (Miss ÃŽle-de-France), Ambre Nguyen (Miss Réunion), Esther Houdement (Miss Normandie), Axelle Bonnemaison (Miss Aquitaine), Alicia Aylies (Miss Guyane), Aurore Kichenin (Miss Languedoc-Roussillon), Morgane Thérésine (Miss Guadeloupe), Claire Godard (Miss Alsace), Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine), Maurane Bouazza (Miss Bretagne), Myrtille Cauchefer (Miss Picardie), and Vaea Ferrand (Miss Tahiti). The public were then invited to select the top five.
   Miss ÃŽle-de-France had topped the general knowledge quiz in an earlier session, while Miss Languedoc-Roussillon had probably the greatest amount of applause when the top 12 were announced.
   The top five—all brunettes—were Alicia Aylies (Miss Guyane), Aurore Kichenin (Miss Languedoc-Roussillon), Vaea Ferrand (Miss Tahiti), Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine), and Morgane Thérésine (Miss Guadeloupe).
   Other jury members were actress Ingrid Chauvin, comedienne Michèle Bernier, Miss France 2010 Malika Ménard, musician Amir, filmmaker Christophe Barratier and Olympic gold medallist Tony Yoka.
   Through the evening, the contestants paraded in costumes recalling The Nutcracker, tuxedo dresses in a penguin-themed sequence, Christmas-themed swimwear, Frozen cosplay dresses, Christmas outfits, outfits with giant Christmas decorations seemingly inspired by the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, white ball gowns, and, sticking to the past earlier in the evening, bikinis.
   There had been one incident during the night, reports Paris Match: Miss Mayotte, Naïma Madi Mahadali, was hospitalized due to a fall after the penguin-themed parade, and appeared with a bandaged right foot when the top 12 were announced.
   Traditionally, 40 per cent of the viewing audience watches the live telecast on TF1. Former Miss France (2002) Sylvie Tellier remains the president of the competition.

NGV and Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture exhibition, starting August ’17


NEWS  by Lucire staff/December 10, 2016/1.57



Wayne Taylor

Top: National Gallery of Victoria and House of Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture at NGV International, opening August 2017. At the media announcement on Friday, Sandra Sundelin, Alejandra Zuluaga, Ella Bond, Maddison Lukes, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel model various Dior designs. Above: Ella Bond models the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection, Maddison Lukes wears the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel the Abandon dress from the autumn–winter 1948–9 collection.

The National Gallery of Victoria kept media in suspense as it led up to its unveiling of its major exhibition for 2017, The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture.
   Beginning August 27, 2017, and running through November 7, the exhibition is a collaboration between the NGV and the House of Dior, and will feature over 140 garments from the company.
   The exhibition covers everything from Dior’s New Look spring 1947 collection to contemporary designs from its first female head designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri (see Lucire issue 36). Iconic designs from the intervening years will also be shown, including work by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, and Raf Simons. It will also feature original sketches, photographs, toiles, archival material, and multimedia displays, says the Gallery.
   The Christian Dior spring 1948 fashion parade at David Jones Sydney, which featured house models in 50 designs, is also explored. David Jones serves as the exhibition’s principal partner.
   â€˜It is a great pleasure and honour for the House of Dior to be celebrating its anniversary in 2017 in Melbourne. This exhibition will be the biggest Dior retrospective ever held in Australia. It will cover 70 years of creation, presenting the emblematic work of Christian Dior and his successors, including Maria Grazia Chiuri, who arrived last July and is the first woman at the head of the couture house,’ said Sidney Toledano, president and CEO of Christian Dior Couture.
   A black-tie gala will take place on August 26, 2017, with proceeds supporting the NGV fashion and textiles’ collection.
   Tickets for the exhibition are now available from the NGV online, retailing at A$26 for adults, concession A$23·50, A$10 for children aged 5 to 15, and families (two adults and three children) for A$65.

Interview clips

With subtitles

Promotional video

The Christian Dior story (archival video)


Copyright ©1954 Mark Shaw/mptvimages.com


Christian Dior





Wayne Taylor

Above, from top: Christian Dior adjusts the accessories to the Zaire dress, on his star model Victoire, during rehearsal for the autumn–winter 1954–5 haute couture show. Christian Dior and model, c. 1950. From the media announcement, Ella Bond in the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection. Sandra Sundelin models the Dior Embuscade suit from the autumn–winter 1950–1 haute couture collection and Alejandra Zuluaga the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection. Alejandra Zuluaga in the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection and Maddison Lukes in the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection. Maddison Lukes wears Dior’s Francis Poulenc dress from his spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection.

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