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In brief: Living Nature, Akin receive more accolades; Van Cleef & Arpels releases a woody scent

Filed by Lucire staff/March 5, 2021/11.44

More praise
Living Nature has scored another accolade for its Glamorous Natural Lipstick no. 16: an Editor’s Choice award in the Beauty Shortlist Awards 2021 in the UK. The lipstick had already been highly commended in the UK’s Pure Beauty London Awards 2020.
   Glamorous Lipstick no. 16 has a rich red shade, along with natural waxes, butters and oils, including certified organic shea butter and jojoba oil. It retails for NZ$33, at participating pharmacies, health stores and at livingnature.com.

Top rated

A’kin’s Replenishing Hand Cream has recently been voted by Beauty Heaven’s members in Australia as the best natural beauty product for hands and feet, and it’s not hard to see why. It’s a combination of its lightness, its natural composition, and its scent. It absorbs quickly into the skin, getting to work with its jojoba, organic lavender and shea butter. Users found it effective and keeps hands soft and moisturized. More at akin.com.au.

Out of the woods
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Bois d’Amande eau de parfum is a woody scent whose notes come from the vegan cedar tree found on the eastern side of North America. The scent is reminiscent of an almond tree in bloom, and is prolonged upon contact with the skin with musk and vanilla bean. Retail price in France is €145 for 75 ml.

 


Dreaming of Saint-Tropez and Sardegna

Filed by Lucire staff/February 28, 2021/17.30




Above, from top: Airelle’s newly-renovated 103-room Château de la Messardière overlooks San Tropez from a wooded hilltop. The inside swimming pool at the spa. The outside terrace.

Like our faithful readers, Lucire’s luxury travel writers look forward to the imminent relaxation of COVID-19 travel restrictions as the warm summer months approach. It’s been a long eighteen months of self-isolation, with much time for self-reflection. We’ve asked ourselves what is really important, and reconsidered our priorities. In the future we will travel less, but travel better. Three exceptional new Mediterranean destinations call out to us.
   We’re big fans of La Bastide in Gordes, France, a much beloved five-star from the Airelles collection. We’ve reported previously on Val d’Isère’s Mademoiselle from the same group.
   Airelles has two fresh surprises for us. Château de la Messardière, a majestic five-star palace hotel perched atop a landscaped hill on the outskirts of Saint-Tropez has undergone extensive renovation over the last two years and is due to open for the summer season on July 1, 2021. The hotel reduced its room count to 103 rooms and suites, each with their own private terrace, created two signatures suites, and now includes exceptional dining and wellness options. Down on the shore, Pan Deï Palais, a historic boutique hotel with only ten guest rooms and two suites is also available for exclusive private hire. Decorated in honour of a famous love story between an Indian princess and a French army general, the Pan Deï Palais is more like an intimate and luxurious family home with all the exotic charms of an Indian palace. It’s home to Dolceva restaurant, one of St Tropez’s most sought-after dining spots. A hidden gem away from the crowds, Dolceva celebrates la dolce vita in a typically Mediterranean setting with chef Marco Garfanini reimagining transalpine classics. Both of these premium grade properties sit at the top end of the market in price, comfort, culinary and wellness offerings.
   The always-superlative Baglioni Group reimagines post-pandemic luxury with the brand new Baglioni Resort Sardinia in Puntaldìa, offered under the umbrella of the Leading Hotels of the World. Slated to open on June 1, 2021, the 76-suite property is set on Sardegna’s northeast coast, within the Tavolara marine reserve, near Lu Impostu, one of the island’s most beautiful beaches. Includes fabulous views across the crystalline bay, spacious and modern rooms, large pool, sun terrace and a kids’ club. A new gourmet restaurant, Gusto by Claudio Sadler promises outstanding fruits of the sea. The 4 ha. private estate sweeping down to the ocean is a remarkable private address for your return to the comforts of discreet getaway destinations.—Stanley Moss, Travel Editor




Above, from top: Airelles’ Pan Deï Palais is a discreet 10-suite palace set within the city limits of St-Tropez. It features Dolceva, a celebrated on-site fine dining gourmet restaurant.


Baglioni’s brand new Baglioni Resort Sardinia in Puntaldìa is set on a 4 ha. site fronting a pristine bay with fabulous views.

 


Pierre Cardin, visionary designer, dies aged 98

Filed by Lucire staff/December 29, 2020/13.43


Claude Iverné/Creative Commons 3·0

Top: Pierre Cardin’s official portrait in 1992. Above: The cover of the book accompanying Pierre Cardin’s 60th anniversary retrospectives in 2010.

Legendary fashion designer Pierre Cardin died December 29 aged 98, according to the Académie des Beaux-Arts, of which he had been a member since 1992.
   Born Pietro Costante Cardin in Treviso, Italy to a working-class family, he would find himself in France in his youth. His parents, along with their 11 children, headed to St Etienne, France, and he became a tailor’s apprentice as a teenager.
   Although fascinated by architecture, he stuck with the clothing trade, joining Paquin, the couturier, in Paris in 1944. At Paquin, he helped cut and sew the costumes and designed masks for Jean Cocteau’s film La Belle et la Bête along with Christian Berard. He also apprenticed with Elsa Schiaparelli.
   Cocteau introduced him to Christian Dior, where he was appointed the head cutter for coats and suits for the designer’s New Look collection, which appeared in February 1947. Branching out on his own, with the new company located at 10 rue Richepanse, Cardin began designing masks and costumes for the theatre, and attracted a clientèle that included Rita Hayworth and Eva Perón. The commissions allowed him to take over the rest of the premises.
   In 1951, André Oliver joined the firm and became Cardin’s friend and right hand, and who created the haute couture with him.
   By 1953, Cardin, now at premises on the rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, showed his first proper collection, and in 1954, he eschewed the feminine form and tradition by showing the “bubble” dress.
   He became a member of the Chambre Syndicale but left soon after, finding its rules cumbersome, and in 1959 he showed his first prêt-à-porter show at Printemps. This expanded his brand’s reach, but at the time it was unprecedented: couturiers did not take themselves downmarket. The same year, Cardin travelled to Japan and recognized the potential of Asia.
   The following year, he showed his first men’s collection, Cylindre, and established a men’s prêt-à-porter and accessories’ department. Eventually, supporters included Gregory Peck and the Beatles, who wore Cardin’s collarless suits.
   Cardin understood the relationship between haute couture and prêt-à-porter all too well, arguably before many others: the former would grab the headlines and could act as a loss leader, while the latter was where money could be made thanks to economies of scale. By 1963 he had launched a women’s prêt-à-porter department. The same year he met actress Jeanne Moreau when he was commissioned to design the costumes for her film La baie des anges. The two had a relationship for some five years, which additionally helped Cardin’s profile. However, Cardin identified as gay and Oliver was, with the exception of this period, his partner in life as well as in his work, until Oliver’s death in 1993.
   In the ’60s, Cardin, along with André Courrèges and Paco Rabanne, created what were regarded as futuristic, space-age designs, inspired by the decade’s forays into the space by the Soviet Union and the US. He even developed a synthetic fabric, Cardine, which Lauren Bacall wore. Another celebrity connection was the menswear for Patrick Macnee’s John Steed in the British TV series The Avengers.
   In 1970, Cardin took over the Théâtre des Ambassadeurs, turning it into the Espace Pierre Cardin, which celebrated the arts. Cardin was impressed by Jean Paul Gaultier’s sketches and gave the 17-year-old his break into the industry. During this decade, his business expanded massively to some 100,000 outlets.
   From a business perspective, he was known for licensing his brand name to a wide variety of products, many outside fashion (inter alia, cigarettes, frying pans and soaps), and claimed to have been involved in their creation. With a mistrust of bankers and lawyers, Cardin did the licensing deals himself. In 1972, Cardin launched his first men’s fragrance, Pour Monsieur.
   While still firm in the grips of communism, Cardin showed in mainland China in the late 1970s, believing the country would eventually open up and become a major economic force. In 1981 he opened a boutique in Russia, then still part of the Soviet Union. Cardin was one of the designers who showed power suits in the 1980s.
   Cardin spent his wealth on properties as well as purchasing Maxim’s restaurant in 1981, which he also grew, with additional branches, and here, too, he licensed the name beyond its original scope. Also in 1981, he launched a women’s fragrance, Choc. In 1983, he was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour and decorated as Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.
   In 1991, Cardin held a fashion show in Moskva’s Red Square to an live audience of 200,000, the first time such an event took place in Russia. He was promoted to Officer of the Legion of Honour and became an honorary UNESCO ambassador; in 1997 he was promoted again to Commander of the Legion of Honour. By 2001, no longer doing regular collections, he bought the Marquis de Sade’s castle, Lacoste, in Provence.
   He remained active well into his 90s, with even Lady Gaga donning Pierre Cardin at one stage. He continued to mentor younger designers and visit his Paris office.

 


IMM’s sustainable shoes: designed by immigrants, made by immigrants

Filed by Lucire staff/December 23, 2020/7.57


It is an empirical fact in most countries that immigrants contribute positively to the economies of their host countries and to job creation, and IMM, a footwear brand produced by immigrants using sustainable methods, seeks to build on that.
   Using surplus materials, including high-quality leathers, from luxury brands, IMM’s ‘home shoes’ are made by immigrants in Spain, while designed by immigrants in Paris.
   The company trains its staff and aims to give them hope. It believes everyone has the right to a home.
   Co-founder Joanne Tsai said, ‘Our motto is simple, the more shoes we sell and the larger we grow, the more positive impact we create for immigrants.’
   IMM’s other co-founder, Belén H. Sánchez, added, ‘With multiple crises that lead millions of people losing their homes, finding alternative ways to help is the core of our brand.
   ‘We start by nurturing and offering jobs to skilled immigrants. The goal is that through economic empowerment, they can rebuild their homes, improve their lives, and contribute to the economic growth in their host countries.’


 


A trio of fragrance débuts from Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Carolina Herrera

Filed by Lucire staff/December 22, 2020/7.58

Versace Eros eau de parfum hits counters in New Zealand on January 7, priced at NZ$165 for 100 ml.
   A woody, oriental scent, it has head notes of Italian lemon and mandarin, mint oil and candied apple, a heart featuring geranium, sage and Ambermax, and end notes of cedarwood, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla.
   This masculine scent is said to embody excess and power, as envisaged by Donatella Versace. Retailers include Farmers, Life Pharmacy, Smith & Caughey, Ballantyne’s, H. & J. Smith and select David Jones stores.


   Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male Pride sees the well known fragrance in a limited-edition can, on shelves in New Zealand in February, retailing at NZ$158 for the 125 ml eau de toilette at Farmers, Life Pharmacy, Smith & Caughey, Ballantyne’s and H. & J. Smith.
   With the unexpected notes of mint and vanilla, the scent celebrates tolerance and our differences. Both the bottle and can bear a rainbow flag.

   Also débuting in February—on the 7th—is Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl eau de parfum légère, an oriental fragrance with a softer jasmine, namely the jasmine sambac imperial, and tonka. Recommended prices begin at NZ$115 for the 30 ml, rising to NZ$168 for the 50 ml, and NZ$218 for the 80 ml, at Farmers, Life Pharmacy, Smith & Caughey, Ballantyne’s and H. & J. Smith.

 


Charlotte Casiraghi named Chanel’s latest ambassador

Filed by Lucire staff/December 21, 2020/23.13

JY&A Consulting: branding backed by real research


Charlotte Casiraghi, the granddaughter of the late HSH Princess Grace of Monaco, and the daughter of Caroline, Princess of Hanover, has been named Chanel’s newest ambassador.
   Casiraghi is no stranger to modelling, having worn Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent professionally. Additionally, she is no stranger to the press, having worked in journalism and publishing. In 2012, Karl Lagerfeld photographed her for the book The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited, by Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld. She holds a degree in philosophy and is the president of the Rencontres philosophies de Monaco, which she founded, with the aim of celebrating and promoting philosophy. She is also an accomplished equestrienne.
   With the announcement by Chanel, she will appear in the house’s spring–summer 2021 ready-to-wear collection by Virginie Viard, and photographed in Monaco by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The campaign will be shown on January 1.
   Chanel says that the house, along with Viard and Casiraghi, will unveil a project called Les Rendevous littéraires rue Cambon, which will bring together female writers and actresses, to share their perspectives on their own work or those of other literary figures, during 2021.
   The first event will be held on January 26 at 31, rue Cambon.

 


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