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January 10, 2017

In brief: Belstaff shows autumn–winter 2017–18; Chanel previews spring ’17 advertising

Lucire staff/19.25




Belstaff

Belstaff has shown its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection in London, for both men and women. The Jolly Roger collection, inspired by World War II Royal Navy uniforms, even has vintage wax treatments on some designs to give them a worn look. Belstaff notes that the pea and duffle coats have been re-created, while the parka is based on a Belstaff design created for the British military in 1960. Creative Director Delphine Ninous said, ‘The formal naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks. This sense of temporary escapism is reflected in edgier elements such as naval tattoo designs and the Jolly Roger flag, giving a sense of rebellion and individuality.’ Tones are red, brown, blue and military green; base colours are charcoal grey, black and navy, with highlights in spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.



Belstaff

   Meanwhile, Chanel has previewed its advertising campaign for its spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter collection. The campaign itself has been overseen by Karl Lagerfeld, with contrast at its core. A pop Lolita metamorphoses into a cyberpunk; a tweed jacket has an electronic circuit board as a motif; an off-white silk and lace coat covers a black babydoll. There’s a startling modernity to the images, tying in to the Data Center Chanel catwalk show in Paris last October, which saw high-tech meet the 1990s.









Chanel

January 5, 2017

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne in Chanel bag campaign

Lucire staff/10.06

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne will appear in Chanel’s new campaign for its Gabrielle bag. The new advertisements break April 3.
   All four have links to Chanel, either as campaign faces over the years, or, in the case of de Maigret, having a friendship with Karl Lagerfeld.
   The Gabrielle bag was first shown at the house’s spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter catwalk show. The bag has a thermo-formed base, a light calfskin body, and a double chain in leather with golden and silver metal. The look was inspired by the shape of augmented reality glasses, and by the binocular cases seen at racecourses.
   In creating the Gabrielle, Lagerfeld pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s 1955 original handbag.

December 17, 2016

Alicia Aylies, Miss Guyane, wins Miss France 2017

Lucire staff/23.20


TF1/SIPA Press/Bertrand Noël


Via Alicia Aylies/Twitter

Alicia Aylies, Miss Guyane, has been crowned Miss France 2017. She is 18 years old, and a first-year law student.
   Vaea Ferrand, Miss Tahiti, was runner-up, with Morgane Thérésine, Miss Guadeloupe, second-runner-up. Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine) came fourth.
   The competition was held at the Montpellier exhibition centre, as the jury and the public found a successor for Miss France 2016 Iris Mittenaere, with live coverage on TF1. Jean-Pierre Foucault hosted the ceremony for the 22nd time.
   Thirty regional winners were selected during the past year to compete for the title of Miss France 2017. Twelve had been preselected by the jury, this year chaired by actress Arielle Dombasle, who replaces Jean Paul Gaultier.
   These 12 were Meggy Pyaneeandee (Miss ÃŽle-de-France), Ambre Nguyen (Miss Réunion), Esther Houdement (Miss Normandie), Axelle Bonnemaison (Miss Aquitaine), Alicia Aylies (Miss Guyane), Aurore Kichenin (Miss Languedoc-Roussillon), Morgane Thérésine (Miss Guadeloupe), Claire Godard (Miss Alsace), Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine), Maurane Bouazza (Miss Bretagne), Myrtille Cauchefer (Miss Picardie), and Vaea Ferrand (Miss Tahiti). The public were then invited to select the top five.
   Miss ÃŽle-de-France had topped the general knowledge quiz in an earlier session, while Miss Languedoc-Roussillon had probably the greatest amount of applause when the top 12 were announced.
   The top five—all brunettes—were Alicia Aylies (Miss Guyane), Aurore Kichenin (Miss Languedoc-Roussillon), Vaea Ferrand (Miss Tahiti), Justine Kamara (Miss Lorraine), and Morgane Thérésine (Miss Guadeloupe).
   Other jury members were actress Ingrid Chauvin, comedienne Michèle Bernier, Miss France 2010 Malika Ménard, musician Amir, filmmaker Christophe Barratier and Olympic gold medallist Tony Yoka.
   Through the evening, the contestants paraded in costumes recalling The Nutcracker, tuxedo dresses in a penguin-themed sequence, Christmas-themed swimwear, Frozen cosplay dresses, Christmas outfits, outfits with giant Christmas decorations seemingly inspired by the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, white ball gowns, and, sticking to the past earlier in the evening, bikinis.
   There had been one incident during the night, reports Paris Match: Miss Mayotte, Naïma Madi Mahadali, was hospitalized due to a fall after the penguin-themed parade, and appeared with a bandaged right foot when the top 12 were announced.
   Traditionally, 40 per cent of the viewing audience watches the live telecast on TF1. Former Miss France (2002) Sylvie Tellier remains the president of the competition.

December 10, 2016

NGV and Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture exhibition, starting August ’17

Lucire staff/1.57



Wayne Taylor

Top: National Gallery of Victoria and House of Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture at NGV International, opening August 2017. At the media announcement on Friday, Sandra Sundelin, Alejandra Zuluaga, Ella Bond, Maddison Lukes, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel model various Dior designs. Above: Ella Bond models the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection, Maddison Lukes wears the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel the Abandon dress from the autumn–winter 1948–9 collection.

The National Gallery of Victoria kept media in suspense as it led up to its unveiling of its major exhibition for 2017, The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture.
   Beginning August 27, 2017, and running through November 7, the exhibition is a collaboration between the NGV and the House of Dior, and will feature over 140 garments from the company.
   The exhibition covers everything from Dior’s New Look spring 1947 collection to contemporary designs from its first female head designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri (see Lucire issue 36). Iconic designs from the intervening years will also be shown, including work by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, and Raf Simons. It will also feature original sketches, photographs, toiles, archival material, and multimedia displays, says the Gallery.
   The Christian Dior spring 1948 fashion parade at David Jones Sydney, which featured house models in 50 designs, is also explored. David Jones serves as the exhibition’s principal partner.
   â€˜It is a great pleasure and honour for the House of Dior to be celebrating its anniversary in 2017 in Melbourne. This exhibition will be the biggest Dior retrospective ever held in Australia. It will cover 70 years of creation, presenting the emblematic work of Christian Dior and his successors, including Maria Grazia Chiuri, who arrived last July and is the first woman at the head of the couture house,’ said Sidney Toledano, president and CEO of Christian Dior Couture.
   A black-tie gala will take place on August 26, 2017, with proceeds supporting the NGV fashion and textiles’ collection.
   Tickets for the exhibition are now available from the NGV online, retailing at A$26 for adults, concession A$23·50, A$10 for children aged 5 to 15, and families (two adults and three children) for A$65.

Interview clips

With subtitles

Promotional video

The Christian Dior story (archival video)


Copyright ©1954 Mark Shaw/mptvimages.com


Christian Dior





Wayne Taylor

Above, from top: Christian Dior adjusts the accessories to the Zaire dress, on his star model Victoire, during rehearsal for the autumn–winter 1954–5 haute couture show. Christian Dior and model, c. 1950. From the media announcement, Ella Bond in the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection. Sandra Sundelin models the Dior Embuscade suit from the autumn–winter 1950–1 haute couture collection and Alejandra Zuluaga the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection. Alejandra Zuluaga in the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection and Maddison Lukes in the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection. Maddison Lukes wears Dior’s Francis Poulenc dress from his spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection.

December 7, 2016

Chanel opens new boutique at national heritage site in le Marais

Cecilia Xu/21.34



Opened December 3, like a walk through history and Parisian elegance, the new Chanel boutique in the Hôtel Amelot de Bisseuil, also known as the Hôtel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande, is one of the most beautiful showcases of the prestigious brand yet.
   Careful to retain all historical detail, wear and time, the space encompasses two ephemeral boutiques. The first, an untouched 127 m² space, showcases the ready-to-wear collection and accessories within an interior of bare and exposed stone walls adorned by transparent glass, and a floor made of resin but has the likeness of Corten steel.
   The second boutique, at only 37 m², showcases Chanel shoes in the style of a great artists’ studio. With the most minimal setting of black clothes-rails and wooden tables peeping through, the space is an adoration of history, archæological preservation and the Hotel’s pride in history. The interiors are left exactly as is in this national heritage site, with no changes or adornment.—Cecilia Xu



December 2, 2016

Jessie J and Make Up For Ever team up for #Iamanartist; video shot by Rankin

Cecilia Xu/19.20

Make Up For Ever has announced an artistic collaboration with iconic superstar and artist Jessie J, to advocate and celebrate self-expression through make-up.
   â€˜Life is a stage’ is what Make Up For Ever believes in: that people are the artists of their own lives, and this was the driving force behind the #Iamanartist campaign with Jessie J.
   â€˜I enjoy revealing different parts of my personality in my look which makes Make Up For Ever such a great partner,’ said Jessie J. ‘The core of the brand is what I am about: creating characters to showcase who you are, exploring and expressing yourself in the way you want through make-up, colours and energy. I definitely feel that my make-up reflects how I feel whether you want to do just a lip or a full-blown smoky eye, your mood can be reflected in your make-up and this is why “Life is a stage”!’
   The collaboration is introduced with Jessie J covering Frankie Valli’s original song ‘Can’t Take My Eyes off You’ in a new video directed by Rankin. Sammy Mourabit has created her make-up in upcoming visuals and videos.
   The campaign’s purpose is to ignite the artistic spirit, inviting make-up enthusiasts to get creative, and express themselves throughout the year with the hashtag #Iamanartist, uniting them in a community of inspired individuals.
   Founded in 1984 by make-up artist Dany Sanz, Make Up Forever offers a wide collection of vivid colours, face and body foundations, and expert artisan formulas.—Cecilia Xu

November 18, 2016

Rock, Gold and Romance with the Body Shop

Cecilia Xu/0.17




Above: Our pick among the Body Shop’s Jungle Bell Rocks make-up: the Go for Gold look.

The Body Shop never fails to conjure an exciting collection suitable for the festive season. This time, with make-up to amp up your holiday and party spirit, the Body Shop brings you Jungle Bell Rocks, a wild-for-Christmas colour campaign featuring three vibrant make-up collections: Rock the Night, Go for Gold, and a True Romance. Each with their own personality and character in differing colour combos, there will sure be one that fits your party mood.
   These limited-edition looks are carefully crafted to each include nail polish, shimmering eye colour sticks, an eye-shadow quad and the on-trend matte liquid lipstick. Get a completely different look with each set, or mix and match to create your own. My personal favourite is the Go for Gold, a neutral brown-gold eye with a matte, dark plum lip that has been so popular this year. This may be best for the party.
   A True Romance, as the name suggests, is perfect for the evening date: a flirty amethyst-plum eye-shadow palette with light sugar-sweet lips. Rock the Night is the statement look for a girl’s night out: with fierce gal-about-town matching red nails and lips, topped off with gleaming black and metallic eyes, this look sure speaks of a lively night out in loud celebration.
   The Gold Leaf nail polish in the Gold collection is great and extremely appealing, while the colours in the Rock the Night shadow palette have the most dramatic and daring flair, not for the faint-hearted. The début release of their Matte Liquid Lipstick is a great success I believe—the colours are fabulous and fun, and made to last as long as your night.
   Eye quads (with Community Trade sesame and babassu oils) retail at NZ$49·95; the matte lip liquid at NZ$19·95; eye colour sticks (with Community Trade babassu oil and beeswax) at NZ$25·95; and the Colour Crush matte lipsticks (with Community Trade beeswax, Brazil nut, argan oil and organic coconut oil) at NZ$29·95. The products are 100 per cent vegetarian, with no gluten, carmine, petrolatum or mineral oil.—Cecilia Xu

November 10, 2016

In brief: Lily-Rose Depp at Planetarium première; Bruce Weber to be honoured at British Fashion Awards; H&M in Vietnam

Cecilia Xu/10.42


Pascal Le Segretain

Chanel is heavily promoting its new No. 5 L’Eau spokeswoman, Lily-Rose Depp, decking her out fully in fashion, accessories and make-up from the brand. On Tuesday, she was at the screening of Planetarium in Paris, a film by Rebecca Zlotowski in which she co-stars as Natalie Portman’s younger sister. She wore a Chanel black cotton jacket from the cruise 2016–17 collection, and the Coco Crush ring in 18 ct yellow gold. As a rising star, and the daughter of two major celebrities, Depp is attracting plenty of attention as her own acting career takes off.
   After opening in New Zealand, Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), the international fashion brand known for offering fashion and quality at the best price in a sustainable way, has signed for its first store openings in Vietnam during 2017. More information will follow, says the company. In 2017, H&M will also open in Colombia, Iceland, Kazakhstan and Georgia.
   Finally, the British Fashion Council announced earlier this week that photographer Bruce Weber, famed for his black-and-white portraits will receive its Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at the British Fashion Awards 2016. Weber will be honoured at this year’s ceremony at the Royal Albert Hall. Weber’s work has appeared in Vogue, Elle, Interview, Rolling Stone, Vanity Fair, and other publications, and rose to prominence with the 1982 Calvin Klein campaign featuring Tom Hintnaus in Greece.—Cecilia Xu, with Lucire staff


Bruce Weber/Calvin Klein Advertising Archive

Above: Tom Hinthaus, photographed by Bruce Weber for Calvin Klein, 1982.

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