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September 30, 2014

H&M to launch Design Award winner Eddy Anemian’s capsule collection on October 23

Lucire staff/13.05

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Hennes & Mauritz has shown the capsule collection created by la Cambre fashion graduate and winner of the H&M Design Award, Eddy Anemian (left), ahead of its on-sale date of October 23.
   Anemian worked with the H&M design team and was impressed at how faithfully his work was translated into reality, including his ‘couture cutting and sewing techniques.’
   Anemian’s winning H&M Design Award collection was inspired by Tilda Swinton’s character in I Am Love and the neoclassical French painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. He cut floral upholstery fabric into strips, then reconstructed them.
   The H&M capsule collection takes the same idea, and can be seen in a blue floral jacket with strips spreading out from the neckline, then curve back in over the hips, while a yellow floral skirt is constructed from vertical strips. Other items highlighted by the label include a white skirt with ruffles replicating marble patterns, and a white jumpsuit with floral sleeves.
   Anemian hopes to start his own label in the future. His collection will be available on- and offline at selected stores.




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September 9, 2014

Jaguar launches XE in London, with David Gandy, Stella McCartney, Eva Herzigova, Laura Whitmore

Lucire staff/1.28

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Jaguar has launched its most important car in years with the brand-new XE, a saloon that sees the Indian-owned company tackle a segment dominated by the BMW 3er and Audi A4. The XE also marks a new generation of Jaguars powered by the company’s new series of Ingenium engines, and features a first-in-segment aluminium-intensive monocoque structure for lightness and strength.
   Jaguar Land Rover, which has seen its profits soar in recent years, spared no expense with the XE’s launch in London, bringing celebrities including Stella McCartney, David Gandy, Eva Herzigova, Sir Stirling Moss, JosĂ© Mourinho, Laura Whitmore, Damian Lewis, Ruben Cortada, David Blakeley, Sam Riley, Sienna Guillory, Steve Redgrave, Brian Johnson and Gary Lineker together at an event that saw Emeli SandĂ©, the Kaiser Chiefs, Eliza Doolittle, the Royal Ballet, Max Milner (The Voice), and members of the London Philharmonic Orchestra perform, and John Hannah narrating.
   While many saw the helicopter delivery of the red XE into London on Monday, Jaguar formally kicked off the launch event that evening at Earls Court with its VIP audience, with the performances evoking models from the company’s past, including the SS100 of 1935.
   SandĂ© composed a ‘Feels Like’ track for the event that had been inspired by the public via social media and the hashtag #FeelXE. The song received its premiĂšre live on a floating stage on the Thames in a 45-minute set later in the evening, with the London Eye and County Hall as a backdrop.
   The performance was complemented with a projection-mapping show on London’s County Hall, showing the public’s messages that inspired the composition. Red flares lit up the London skyline in red to match the hero colour of the new car.
   McCartney will reveal her Parisian Feel XE experience later this month, while Idris Elba will reveal his Feel XE project afterwards.
   Earlier in the day, employees at Jaguar’s Solihull plant—where 1,700 jobs are expected to be created—formed an XE shape as the Red Arrows flew past, and the car was airlifted by helicopter toward London. It was placed on a high-speed landing craft on the Thames to Chelsea Harbour.
   In another nod to its past, Jaguar then had the new XE escorted by two 1960s Mk II police cars from Battersea Bridge to Earls Court.
   The “delivery” was intentional: Jaguar wanted to signal that the XE is the spiritual successor to the Mk II, still considered by many fans to be the quintessential Jaguar close-coupled sporting saloon, and the car that arguably pioneered the segment in which the new model now competes.
   One car from Jaguar’s past that was not mentioned was the X-type, the company’s turn-of-the-century attempt to tap into the compact executive market. Younger buyers rejected that model partly because of its unadventurous styling, overseen by Jaguar’s then-parent company Ford. The X-type was also hampered by its front-wheel-drive transmission on cheaper models, something that Jaguar has avoided repeating by giving the XE rear-wheel drive. It is also the most aerodynamic Jaguar made, with a drag coefficient of 0,26.
   The cab-backward fastback look of the XE takes styling themes established by the XJ and XF, and features a short front overhang and a low driving position. The car looks more aggressive and taut than the larger models, which should appeal to buyers in the segment.
   â€˜Our mission was to create an exciting and dynamic design clearly reflecting the XE’s positioning as a serious driver’s car. The cab-rearward proportions and tight packaging achieve that and give the XE the appearance of movement even when it’s standing still. It bears a strong family resemblance to the F-type and will stand apart in the crowd,’ says Jaguar’s director of design, Ian Callum.
   The aluminium components also mean more effective recycling, and in a world first for cars, Jaguar has specified RC5754, an aluminium alloy made from recycled material.
   The high-tech features extend to Jaguar’s new electric power steering, which is more efficient than a traditional hydraulic system, and what the company calls All Surface Progress Control (ASPC), which works as a low-speed cruise control that can control the brake system and powertrain for the best traction in slippery conditions. The XE also features a laser head-up display, nearly a third lighter than existing systems. Jaguar also dĂ©buts a new InControl infotainment system, which is claimed to be more intuitive, especially with a pioneering plain-speech voice control. The car is also a wifi hotspot for internet-enabled devices, and both Apple Iphone and Android users can control various functions remotely.
   Full details of the XE range will be released at the Salon de Paris on October 2. The range will be topped by a supercharged V6 delivering 340 PS, while the two-litre Ingenium diesel is claimed to deliver 75 mpg (Imperial) with carbon dioxide emissions of 99 g/km. Prices are set to begin at ÂŁ27,000.















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September 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015: more favourites from the ïŹrst ïŹve days

Lucire staff/20.58

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Through Lucire’s history, there have been a select group of labels that get featured thanks to their consistency of design and their integrity. It’s no coincidence that they are among our favourites over days three through five at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York: BCBG Max Azria, Marissa Webb, Carmen Marc Valvo, Venexiana, Custo Barcelona, Vivienne Tam, Nanette Lepore, Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra. We were impressed with Taoray Wang and have included this designer for the first time in our pages. Lola Cristall leads our post-event coverage.
   Remember you can watch our live player on our home page for coverage from New York as it happens.

BCBG Max Azria


Marissa Webb

Carmen Marc Valvo



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Venexiana


Custo Barcelona


Vivienne Tam



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Nanette Lepore


Carolina Herrera



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Taoray Wang



Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Reem Acra



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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September 6, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, spring–summer 2015, days 1 and 2: the global traveller advances

Sopheak Seng/20.06

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Lola Cristall and Maitland Waters will file their end-of-week report from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, but, in the meantime, fashion editor Sopheak Seng has spotted his favourites from the first two days of the spring–summer 2015 shows.

Nicole Miller


   Vibe: Summer holidays in Rio.
   Clothes: Fresh floral tropical prints in sharp cut-out dresses and pants, graphic black-and-white wave print on coats and jackets, as well as skirts. Flounces on hems of dresses and skirts recalled the South American vibe that Miller drew upon for her collection. What stood out was the opening outfit, the cross-front dress with the tight fit silhouette and its flounce hem: the playful nature carried the collection as well as the final pieces which had flowers and fruits embroidered in sequins.
   Look: Beachy waves, sun-kissed faces, holiday glamour.

Zimmermann

   Vibe: 1970s hippie tarot readers meets modern day beach glamour.
   Clothes: Soft, floaty and ethereal was the call of the day, with ruffles and flounces a-plenty at the Zimmermann show. The opening was a beautiful wisteria-coloured lace gown with tiered gathers and asymmetric neckline; the collection then moved to masculine and feminine juxtaposition playing throughout the collection with floaty dresses paired with military-style parkas, with cargo pockets or pinstripe vests and tailored suit jackets. Stand-outs were the swimsuits, particularly the black one-piece halter with giant bow detailing, the opening dress as well as the peachy coral-coloured pant suit with cascading asymmetric ruffle blouse.
   Look: Centre-parted gypsy folk hair with sleek ponytails and flushed coral cheeks.


Tome


   Vibe: Uptown girl meets Indian maharanis.
   Clothes: Glamorous clothes infused with a touch of India in the sari-style asymmetric crop tops and ties. The sleeveless trench-style coats with the duo colour lapels, gorgeous pleated skirts in shades of saffron, rose and black. The Rajastani men’s-style shirts with waist sashes, the Madame GrĂšs-inspired pleated gowns that finished the show, and the floral embellished shell tops were all stand-outs.
   Look: Simple, elegant chic fish braids with orchids.

Tadashi Shoji


   Vibe: Elegance and beauty in Venezia.
   Clothes: Inspired by the famous golden palace in Venezia, the Ca’ d’Oro, and its reflections, there was a lightness and glow in this collection. The restrained beauty of the collection started from the first look of the white lace trench dress. The collection featured, heavily, lace, tulle, organza and lots and lots of pleats. All of this did not feel forced as it would have been in anyone else’s hands. The collection of caped gowns should make for some very stand-out red carpet moments come awards’ season. The beautiful collared shirts and shirt dresses crafted in lace and organza were stand-outs as well as the use of mesh piecing in some of the dresses felt fresh.
   Look: Elegant chignons and fresh-faced beauties.

Nicholas K


   Vibe: Urban nomadic warrior.
   Clothes: Nomadic draped sportswear, inspired by a road trip to Morocco. The brother–sister designer duo gave great sport luxe separates that are made for living and travelling in. Fatigue-style jackets and trousers were the order of the day as were draped and fringed skirts and dresses designed for the urban nomad. Standouts were the draped hooded jackets and knicker-boxers in silk as were the leather jackets. Accessorized with horsehair jewellery by Victoria Simes and lace-up heels by Kiyoon Baek, these collaborations added a sophisticated edge to the collection.
   Look: Sun-kissed skin and sleek nomadic hair.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

Street style in New York

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August 28, 2014

Sponsored video: how to make it with a cowboy, with Sauza

Lucire staff/23.48

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A Lucire special promotion

Plenty of brands tap in to the spirit of the US cowboy, most notably the Marlboro Man. The imagery is enviable: the romantic notion of freedom, the wide open spaces, and a carefree nature that is a welcome break from the stresses of urban life.
   You don’t necessarily expect a Mexican tequila brand like Sauza to tap into the same spirit, since its heritage is found in the dons of MĂ©xico. Don Cenobio Sauza made tequila—he was the first to give it the name—at la Perservancia in 1873. However, the US connection does date from the 19th century when Don Cenobio exported the drink north of the border. For three generations, the dons were still making Sauza.
   While Sauza did not originate in the United States, the brand certainly has a long connection with the country. Now owned by Suntory of Japan, which has usually preserved the national origins of each brand, Sauza has expanded from its tequila roots to a new line of sparkling margaritas.
   Its latest spot is introduced by an American cowboy, targeting women who want the feeling of the great outdoors in a drink. He pledges to bring the Sauza sparkling margaritas—a drink whose fizz conveys the calming, refreshing sense of a countryside river.
   It’s a subtle sell with a rugged, Caucasian American male—and being a southern gentleman with a ten-gallon hat is a step up from another soda brand whose delivery man takes off his shirt in front of an office block.
   The website, meanwhile, has the cowboy making margaritas, but with a twist, as well as crafts, all involving Sauza’s latest addition. You will need to sign in to YouTube to watch them, but they take you right to the heart of the campaign for that perfect, sophisticated ladies’ night.


Post sponsored by Sauza

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Filed under: living, TV
August 6, 2014

Retrospectives: great moments in Parisian fashion history, with YSL, McQueen, Galliano, Gaultier

Lucire staff/14.05

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What are some of the great fashion moments in recent history? You’ll have seen these videos run on Lucire TV, and we’ve singled them out for an additional focus. In French and English.

1. The departure of Yves Saint Laurent
In January 2001, Yves Saint Laurent retired from the house that bears his name, with the brand’s final haute couture show and retrospective at the Hotel Inter-continental in Paris. Two thousand people were invited to the Centre Pompidou to see Saint Laurent’s 300 greatest classics, and models included Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, Jerry Hall, and Naomi Campbell. In the finalĂ©, 40 tuxedos paraded to a song performed by Laetitia Casta. Catherine Deneuve, a long-time friend of the designer, was in tears. Saint Laurent died in 2008.
   Saint Laurent says, ‘I tried to prove that Paris was still the city of light and of haute couture, and haute couture made like this was necessary for people’s imaginations. I like seeing my models evolve and seeing how the public react and actually in that moment I feel really close to the public. I still get nervous in this profession. I’m still not used to it after 42 years. I’ve tried again to perfect this style that has now become really important in fashion, this style that I created and to which I remain loyal, as fashions pass but style stays. It’s a part of me, it’s my life. I wouldn’t know what to do; I wouldn’t be able to live if I didn’t make dresses.’

2. The shows of Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen was known for his extravagant shows, and had come to most people’s attention after he succeeded John Galliano at Givenchy in 1996. He was later hired by the Gucci Group, joining the group in 2000. Gucci had bought a controlling stake in McQueen’s own label. An extraordinary creator, McQueen was depressed after the death of his mother, and committed suicide in 2010. The video looks at some of his greatest hits.
   Said McQueen: ‘After I left college I went to Paris to look for work, like every student does, and I went to see Martin but he couldn’t afford to pay me, and then I went to Gaultier and then there was some nasty queen on the front door to Gaultier. And I thought f*** this. I was supposed to be there for five days I was back in five hours, because there was no one else I wanted to work for apart from Margiela and Gaultier 

   â€˜I call myself very schizophrenic; I have so many different, you know, personalities.’
   Katy England notes in the video below, ‘He’s just got a very clever mind, and he doesn’t follow fashion, he’s not that interested in the trends. He just suddenly thinks of something that’s really really imaginative, he might be inspired by art or 
 he just has a very strange vision of things which suddenly comes to life. He’ll explain an image and you’ll think wow, that’s very very strong, and that will then in turn inspire a collection. I’ve never met someone else who thinks of these things, it’s just exciting really.’

3. John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002
One of John Galliano’s most controversial haute couture collections was for spring–summer 2002, where he showed one inspired by the homeless, paying tribute to the ‘ingenuity shown by the underprivileged in the way they dress,’ with unstitched dresses, jacket arms held on by pegs, the layering of trousers and torn effects. Galliano said, ‘There’s the new cut but it’s also to show the work, the delicacy of the Dior atelier’s work, and also to show that this house is a laboratory of ideas where you can thrive off the rest of the house, the ready-to-wear fashion, the collection and the accessories 
 that’s why I’m there, to inspire the house. I cut it up a bit, a little bit crazily and expressively 
 They took the dress upstairs and they made the whole patronage and everything and they came back down with the same expressive cutting which blew me away, me and Stephen [Jones] couldn’t tell the difference.’

4. Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier
Madonna, who had been friends with Jean Paul Gaultier since 1989 when he made the costumes for her Blonde Ambition tour, went to Paris in September 1994 to model the designer’s spring–summer 1995 collection. The show was memorable for both Madonna and Gaultier, for a body corset with a conical bra.
   Looking back, Gaultier says, ‘That exact date in 1989. I knew her from that, professionally because I made the costumes for the Blonde Ambition tour, so that was really fun, it was one of my most beautiful experiences I have to say. An then obviously she modelled for me. First, she modelled in a charity show in LA in support of Aids, and the second time she modelled, you recorded her, at the MusĂ©e des Arts Forains, that must have been around ’96. There you go!
   Marie-Christiane Marek summarizes the influence: ‘Madonna produced a visual shock, leaving a mark on her era and captivating a fascinated public from the end of the ’80s. She presented corseted silhouettes with conical bras, or more Jean Paul Gaultier men’s suits. Madonna, therefore, embodied the Parisian designer’s success, heralding a new feminine era with a stamp of sex appeal.’

Le dĂ©part d’Yves Saint Laurent (version française)

The departure of Yves Saint Laurent (English dub)

The shows of Alexander McQueen

John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002

Madonna défile chez Jean-Paul Gaultier (version française)

Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier (English dub)

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Advertorial and editorial: at Lucire, you can always tell the difference

Jack Yan/4.40

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John Oliver is absolutely right in a recent piece on Last Week Tonight: websites have to pay the bills, and it can get very tricky when the pay isn’t great. We’ve seen other titles run advertorials and mark them very, very subtly, something which we don’t do ourselves. We make it obvious.
   Throughout our history, advertorial has been marked ‘A Lucire special promotion,’ in print and online. There have been rare exceptions in print, but the last time that happened was five years ago. In fact, in some cases on this website, we’ll even make it very clear in the headline (‘Sponsored video’), in the first line (‘A Lucire special promotion’) and in the footer (‘Post sponsored by 
’). So there is no doubt when a story is being paid for. Instead of burying when advertorial is running, we’ve progressively made it more obvious over the years.
   Interestingly, our advertorial for L’OrĂ©al Paris last week was popular with readers, and our Chocolate Heaven story was viewed a lot on social media, even more than some recent regular articles, so we know some readers enjoy the odd piece. In some cases, we don’t even share our advertorials on social media unless the client specifically asks us to.
   We believe that our readers are smart—however, we don’t believe we gain loyalty by fooling you. If you don’t want to read an advertorial, you have the option not to click on it when you see it linked—because it’s clear when it is paid for.
   We aim to be careful with readers with these ads—you’ll never be confused when there’s advertorial, and in 17 years it’s always been very clear online, to the point where it is now our policy on- and offline.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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Filed under: Lucire, publishing, TV
August 5, 2014

Miss Universe New Zealand 2014 finalists fulfil their diplomatic mission

Lucire staff/5.51

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Alan Raga

Other than the early 5.30 a.m. call to get ready for a live TV appearance on Channel 5 to 10 million viewers in Thailand, Monday saw the Miss Universe New Zealand 2014 finalists fulfil part of their diplomatic role, visiting the Ministry of Foreign Affairs for an official function hosted by Sihasak Phuangketkeow, Permanent Secretary for Foreign Affairs. The Thai Ambassador to New Zealand, HE Noppadon Theppitak, was also in attendance, amidst substantial local media interest.
   It was also a day for the New Zealand national anthem, broadcast both on television in the morning and sung at the Ministry in the evening.
   They met the top place holders from Miss Universe Thailand, including Pimbongkod Chankaew, who will represent Thailand at the international competition later this year.
   At the ministerial event, Miss Universe New Zealand executive director Nigel Godfrey presented his opposite number at Miss Universe Thailand, Surang Prempree, a framed invitation for her titleholder to come to New Zealand later in 2014.
   In addition, four contestants had a very early morning shoot with Alan Raga, again wearing Surface Too Deep and Honey & Co. swimwear, completed before 8 a.m.
   Channel 5 has since uploaded its clip to YouTube, embedded below.
   Godfrey notes in his interview with Channel 5, as the Thai people are justifiably concerned about their perception in international media, ‘We have seen nothing but safety 
 For us we could not feel safer, and that certainly is something we will be telling people in New Zealand when we go back.’
   In the afternoon, the top 25 went to Central Embassy, a shopping centre in Bangkok, to try their hand at cooking traditional Thai cuisine at the Issaya Cooking Studio. Their experience has already hit the Thai press, appearing in Thairath, one of the biggest newspapers in the country.
   The Miss Universe New Zealand 2014 grand final takes place at Sky City Theatre, Auckland, on September 18. The public will have a hand in deciding the winner, through text voting and through the electronic i-vote. See nextmissnz.com/top25.shtml for voting details. Further updates of the competition are on the Miss Universe New Zealand Facebook and Instagram, with hashtags #missuniversenz and #munz14.










Alan Raga

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