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YOOX and Vogue Italia launch sustainable, responsible fashion programme with €50,000 top prize

Filed by Lucire staff/February 23, 2020/1.09




Jacopo M. Raule

YOOX and Vogue Italia celebrated the launch of their mentoring programme, the Vogue YOOX Challenge—the Future of Responsible Fashion, at the San Paolo Converso church in Milano yesterday, during the city’s fashion week.
   The programme aims to support and mentor designers, creatives and start-ups who are investing in social responsibility and sustainability.
   The Challenge culminates in September when 10 finalists are selected by a group of sustainability experts. An international jury then evaluates the projects during the Milano moda donna for spring–summer 2020 in September. The winner is then announced, and their project is celebrated in February 2021, at the autumn–winter 2021–22 collections. In addition to the support, mentoring, communications and distribution, the winner will receive a cash prize of €50,000 to realize their project.
   The international jury includes Federico Marchetti, chairman and CEO of Yoox Net-à-Porter Group; Emanuele Farneti, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and L’Uomo; Sara Sozzani Maino, deputy editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and head of Vogue Talents; Liya Kebede, model and women’s rights’ activist; Amber Valletta, model and actress; Lisa Armstrong, head of fashion at The Telegraph; Alice Ben Arous, chief of staff of Richemont’s fashion and accessories’ division and a member of its CSR committee; Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (Italian Chamber of Fashion), Rosario Dawson, actress and co-founder of Studio 189; Orsolo de Castro, founder of Fashion Revolution; Tonne Goodman, sustainability editor of Vogue; Eva Herzigová, model and editor-at-large of Vogue CS; Suzy Menkes, international Vogue editor; Clare Press, presenter of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast; Dilys Williams, director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion.
   The sustainability experts are Alex McIntosh, founder and creative director of Create Sustain; Giorgia Roversi, director of sustainability and inclusion at of Yoox Net-à-Porter Group; Francesco Perrini, ordinary professor of the Department of Management and Technology of Bocconi University; Francesca Romana Rinaldi, director of the Master in Brand & Business Management and New Sustainable Fashion at the Milan Fashion Institute (an inter-university consortium composed of Bocconi University, Università Cattolica di Milano and Politecnico di Milano); Elisa Pervinca Bellini, sustainability and talent editor of Vogue Italia and a member of the Condé Nast Global Employee Council on Sustainability.
   Guests at the event welcomed by Marchetti, Farneti, Valletta and Kenede included Karolína Kurková, Coco Rocha, Bianca Balti, Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes, Carla Sozzani, Giuseppe Zanotti, Walter Chiapponi, Maurizio Cattelan, Francesco Vezzoli, Aya and Ami Suzuki, Nataly Osmann, Miriam Leone, Greta Ferro, Arthur Arbesser, Sara Battaglia, Linda Tol, Stella Jean, Ekaterina Darma, Ilenia Durazzi, Ferdinando Verderi, Nina Yashar, Matteo Ward, Paula Cademartori, Gabrielle Caunesil, Andrea della Valle, Vogue Russia’s Masha Fedorova, Helen Nonini, Massimiliano Locatelli, Kris Ruhs, W’s Stefano Tonchi, Candela Pelizza, Vogue Japan’s Anna dello Russo, Andrea Incontri, Abrima Erwiah, and former Miss Italia Miriam Leone.
   Wines were provided by Masi Agricola.

Jacopo M. Raule

 


Instagram won’t replace the fashion magazine

Filed by Jack Yan/January 31, 2020/12.14


Lindsay Adler

Above: The cover from Lucire KSA, January 2020, modelled by Camille Hyde with fur by House of Fluff. Photographed by Lindsay Adler Photography, styled by Cannon/the Only Agency, hair by Linh Nguyen, and make-up by Joanne Gair using Danessa Myricks Beauty.

A few weeks ago, I got out of the habit of Instagramming. Since 2012, I did it initially out of fun, then as a way of keeping up with hobbies and a few friends, but when some personal changes happened, the habit left. Facebook I had departed for any personal updates in 2017, after some well documented problems—before Christopher Wylie voiced his concerns to The Observer, incidentally—while Twitter has revealed that its data-gathering doesn’t stop even when you’ve opted out of personalized advertising. Facebook does the same, and it’s public knowledge that it’s quite happy to sell these data to others.
   I thought it was a massive mistake for Facebook to remind us that it owned Instagram and Whatsapp through its latest branding efforts, because surely the parent company and its flagship product are tainted by now? It’s been further tainted by the stench of politics, the tribalism that they exhibit, and the outright lies its bosses tell.
   At some point, some government will develop the cohones to say monopoly power is bad and stifles innovation, changing Big Tech significantly. Perhaps some agency will have the guts to point out that regular deceptive comments to the public do have consequences. But till then, this first year of the decade won’t look too different from the last year of the last in terms of how the majority of people consume media, old and new.
   None of these fleeting media give you much depth, and Instagram is arguably the least tainted by politicking and negativity, showing pretty pictures (for the most part) that you can either like or scroll past.
   I was, therefore, surprised that in the last few years, I read one proclamation that the days were numbered for fashion magazines since there was Instagram. I beg to differ, and it’s not just out of a personal bias, but out of keen observations of the ebbs and flows of social media. Yes, I may have got out of the habit of Facebooking and Instagramming, but millions of others haven’t. But to say fashion magazines were a thing of the past? It’s hard to fathom.
   Instagram does give a few obvious benefits. Immediacy, for one. Users can then link the item to a smartphone-optimized shopping site. As a retail aid, it’s clever. It has video, where brand stories can be told. But, like any new medium, at best this complements what already exists. Instagram doesn’t replace long-form journalism told by an objective observer.
   At home we have a 34-year-old copy of The Australian Women’s Weekly. It’s the Christmas issue, and it’s packed with articles that entertain, with barely any sensationalism. The magazines of this era, buoyed by healthy advertising prices and editors who arguably enjoyed educating as much as entertaining, aren’t, to me, relics. Lucire has always strived to be a decent read, more so in our print editions, and while our presentation is more contemporary, our values haven’t changed. We moved past offering a magazine that was based around today’s news, with retail specials for the following month, long ago. We could see that wasn’t relevant in a digital age. But we repositioned and kept what did work. World-class photography. Interesting articles, properly subbed. You deserve a good read, where you pick up a copy and gain something from it. We also wanted to reflect (perhaps even preempt) your values about the environment and our place in this world. I think that’s why Lucire, in particular our original edition; our newest edition, Lucire KSA; and the former Twinpalms Lucire in Thailand, have reader appeal. It should last you for more than a single sitting. That December 1985 issue of The Australian Women’s Weekly could even last beyond the date the February 1986 issue went on sale.


Aleksandr Mavrin


Hilde Osland, via Instagram

Top: Like travel editor Stanley Moss, Russian model Viki Odintcova headed to Canggu, Bali, and shared this image from Wapa di Ume Sidemen photographed by Aleksandr Mavrin on her Instagram. Above: Hilde Osland models Fashionnova, not far from Lucire’s HQ in Wellington, New Zealand.

   Social media have only really replaced any medium that was fleeting and shallow. You could potentially get more insight into your favourite reality TV stars on their personal ’Grams than in a gossip magazine. Glamour models and certain celebrities—Viki Odintcova of Russia, and Norwegian-born, Australian-based model and singer Hilde Osland for two—may show more on their accounts than in lads’ magazines. Cellphone cameras can rival some professional ones in resolution, and while there’s no substitute for the professionally shot photos, those surfing social media and its small, rectangular, black-mirror format of all of seven inches are quite happy with “near enough”. And, indeed, for those professional images, especially editorials, a beautifully printed page has a totally different effect to something seen on screen.
   Digital is here to stay—and being one of the earliest proponents of that, we should know. Social will also stay, maybe offered by other firms, but we won’t break our addictions easily. Admittedly, as a company, we never expected social to play as big a part as it ultimately did. But print, and the long-form articles that appear in it, are going to stick around for a long time to come, too.—Jack Yan, Publisher

 


Genius in a bottle

Filed by Jody Miller/November 13, 2019/23.28

While a hope and a prayer never hurts, the best anti-ageing secrets are much easier to come by than magic lamps and polysyllabic passwords. Autumn is a time of harvest for much of the world, and we had the opportunity to discover what’s cropping up in the worlds of skin care and CBD wellness.








Jody Miller

   Global skin care brand Algenist, whose Liquid Collagen Serum is an international best seller, joined forces with nail care brand Orly for an evening of manicures, custom colouring, and getting a sneaky-peek at Algenist’s upcoming 2020 product launch. Held at Orly Color Lab in West Hollywood, the guest list of bloggers and influencers created their own Orly lacquer with nail-colour mixologists. After getting their mani, guests received an exclusive gift bag from featuring Algenist favourites and the soon-to-be-released Genius Collagen Calming Relief.
   Just a few blocks north at the élite and oh-so-private Soho House, lauded Canadian naturopath Dr Andrew Kerklaan introduced his line of premium CBD wellness. Renowned for his natural and non-invasive therapies and cutting-edge research, Dr Kerklaan Therapeutics goes far beyond your now run-of-the-mill CBD and hemp products. Dr Kerklaan spoke about the now wildly expanding CBD wellness industry and enlightened attendees that while there are great benefits to CBD’s newfound accessibility, he also warned about the numerous subpar manufacturers and misleading labels. Dr Kerklaan Therapeutics are formulated with only the highest-grade cannabinoids and plant extract with an unprecedented amount of pure hemp-derived CBD extract.




Jody Miller

   Speaking of misleading labels, chef Pam Bailey and photographer Darren Tieste got sick and tired of beauty brands that claimed to be organic, but upon closer inspection of the ingredients, were far from it. Both passionate about health and clean living, they handcrafted their own oils at home before launching Mizz Bloom Organics. Vegan, cruelty-free, and non-GMO, with toxin-free ingredients, Mizz Bloom is one of the few brands that is USDA-certified organic.
   In honour of the brand, Mizz Bloom Organics hosted a poolside launch party at the boutique Avalon Hotel in Beverly Hills. The cast and crew of upcoming reality show Men of West Hollywood were spotted sipping cocktails and sampling product as they filmed a future episode. Brand founders Darren and Pam were on site along with VIP media. Everyone left with a big smile and gift bag of Mizz Bloom to take home.—Jody Miller, Correspondent

 


Megyn Kelly’s new channel gets into the Zeitgeist, interviewing former news producer wrongly accused of Robach leak

Filed by Lucire staff/November 9, 2019/0.10

On her new YouTube channel, former lawyer and Fox News anchor Megyn Kelly interviews Ashley Bianco, a former ABC News producer who was fired by her new employers, CBS News, over the leaking of a clip featuring journalist Amy Robach talking off-air but with a “hot mic” about the Jeffrey Epstein case.
   Epstein was a convicted pædophile who had connections with politicians and royalty, including HRH the Duke of York, and died while in custody after being charged with sex trafficking offences. He had served a light sentence in the late 2000s after a plea deal with prosecutors. The story ventured back into the limelight after a major investigative piece by the Miami Herald.
   The controversial clip shows Robach being frustrated that, despite having had the Epstein story for three years and an interview with one of his victims, Virginia Roberts, ‘we would not put it on the air.’ She added, ‘We were so afraid we wouldn’t be able to interview Kate or Will, I think that also squashed the story … And I freaking had on all of it. I’m so pissed right now like every day I get more and more pissed. Because I’m just like, “Oh my God, what what we had was unreal.” Other women backing it up … Brad Edwards the attorney, three years ago, saying like there will come a day where we will realize Jeffrey Epstein was the most prolific pædophile this country has ever known. I had it all three years ago.’
   Robach later clarified with a statement: ‘As a journalist, as the Epstein story continued to unfold last summer, I was caught in a private moment of frustration. I was upset that an important interview I had conducted with Virginia Roberts didn’t air because we could not obtain sufficient corroborating evidence to meet ABC’s editorial standards about her allegations.’
   Bianco made the clip—as well as many others—as part of her job at ABC News, but ensured it stayed within the network. She had never leaked it, a claim that has been confirmed by James O’Keefe of Project Veritas, which published the clip last week.
   O’Keefe’s source inside ABC News has also gone public, confirming that it was not Bianco.
   Nevertheless, under New York’s laws, Bianco could be fired “at will” and without reason. ABC News had tipped off CBS News, which had hired Robach, saying she had accessed the clip. That led to her dismissal after four days.
   Bianco says the clip was well known inside ABC News and numerous people could have accessed it.
   She was interviewed by Kelly to give her side of the story.

 


Diamond Langi wins Miss Universe New Zealand 2019

Filed by Lucire staff/August 17, 2019/12.24




Alan Raga

Above, from top: Diamond Langi is crowned by 2018 titleholder Estelle Curd. Diamond Langi gives her first wave after being crowned Miss Universe New Zealand 2019. Runners-up Charissa Rehu, Jayda Ormsby-Northcott, Hannah McCabe and Lydia Smit flank the new titleholder.

In the most tightly fought Miss Universe New Zealand competitions in years, 27-year-old Auckland stylist Diamond Langi was crowned the 2019 titleholder, with Blenheim police officer Hannah McCabe as runner-up. Wellington-based administrator Jayda Ormsby-Northcott placed third.
   The competition was so close that the five judges had to deliberate away from the audience several times during the show, which was live-streamed globally via the Miss Universe New Zealand website.
   Langi is of Tongan heritage and holds a master’s degree in styling, and is studying for a bachelor’s in acting and performing arts. She is also a talented musician.
   The judging panel comprised of Talent Tree founder and former Miss Universe New Zealand director Evana Corric as the key judge, Miss Universe New Zealand 2016 Tania Dawson, proprietor of the Shakespeare Hotel and businessman Sunny Kaushal, Essential Talent managing director Shaun O’Neill, and choreographer Jane Strickland.
   Performances tonight included songs from Eden Kavanagh, fresh from her appearances on The Voice UK and the gala fund-raiser This Is Who We Are earlier this year, and Variety Gold Heart scholarship recipient Verity Howells.
   Couturier Sidney Eculla returned to design the finalists’ gowns, as well as the one worn by co-MC Holly Pollock, from TV3’s The Café.
   Miss Universe New Zealand CEO Nigel Godfrey wore an extra hat tonight by MCing the event with Ms Pollock.
   During the year, the finalists had visited Phuket, Thailand. They also learned first-hand about the issues at Ihumātao, by visiting the site on Wednesday, covered by TVNZ 1 News and Stuff.
   Langi succeeds Auckland-based CRM and HR manager Estelle Curd, who appeared on stage with the hosts with a farewell interview.
   A touching haka was performed for Ormsby-Northcott by whānau in the audience at the end of the show.
   Lydia Smit, a 22-year-old student, and Charissa Rehu, a 24-year-old former flight attendant, placed fourth and fifth respectively.
   Miss Universe New Zealand is decided 50 per cent by public vote, and 50 per cent by the judges.
   Langi heads into a shoot on Sunday with photographer Alan Raga as her first duty as the new titleholder, and will represent Aotearoa New Zealand at Miss Universe later this year.

 


Demasking the torture of Julian Assange

Filed by Lucire staff/June 26, 2019/19.38


David G. Silvers/Wikimedia Commons


Above: The author, Prof Nils Melzer

I know, you may think I am deluded. How could life in an embassy with a cat and a skateboard ever amount to torture? That’s exactly what I thought, too, when Assange first appealed to my office for protection. Like most of the public, I had been subconsciously poisoned by the relentless smear campaign, which had been disseminated over the years. So it took a second knock on my door to get my reluctant attention. But once I looked into the facts of this case, what I found filled me with repulsion and disbelief.
   Surely, I thought, Assange must be a rapist! But what I found is that he has never been charged with a sexual offence. True, soon after the US had encouraged allies to find reasons to prosecute Assange, Swedish prosecution informed the tabloid press that he was suspected of having raped two women. Strangely, however, the women themselves never claimed to have been raped, nor did they intend to report a criminal offence. Go figure. Moreover, the forensic examination of a condom submitted as evidence, supposedly worn and torn during intercourse with Assange, revealed no DNA whatsoever—neither his, nor hers, nor anybody else’s. Go figure again. One woman even texted that she only wanted Assange to take an HIV test, but that the police were ‘keen on getting their hands on him’. Go figure, once more. Ever since, both Sweden and Britain have done everything to prevent Assange from confronting these allegations without simultaneously having to expose himself to US extradition and, thus, to a show trial followed by life in jail. His last refuge had been the Ecuadorian embassy.
   All right, I thought, but surely Assange must be a hacker! But what I found is that all his disclosures had been freely leaked to him, and that no one accuses him of having hacked a single computer. In fact, the only arguable hacking-charge against him relates to his alleged unsuccessful attempt to help breaking a password which, had it been successful, might have helped his source to cover her tracks. In short, a rather isolated, speculative, and inconsequential chain of events; a bit like trying to prosecute a driver who unsuccessfully attempted to exceed the speed-limit, but failed because their car was too weak.
   Well then, I thought, at least we know for sure that Assange is a Russian spy, has interfered with US elections, and negligently caused people’s deaths! But all I found is that he consistently published true information of inherent public interest without any breach of trust, duty or allegiance. Yes, he exposed war crimes, corruption and abuse, but let’s not confuse national security with governmental impunity. Yes, the facts he disclosed empowered US voters to take more informed decisions, but isn’t that simply democracy? Yes, there are ethical discussions to be had regarding the legitimacy of unredacted disclosures. But if actual harm had really been caused, how come neither Assange nor Wikileaks ever faced related criminal charges or civil lawsuits for just compensation?
   But surely, I found myself pleading, Assange must be a selfish narcissist, skateboarding through the Ecuadorian embassy and smearing fæces on the walls? Well, all I heard from embassy staff is that the inevitable inconveniences of his accommodation at their offices were handled with mutual respect and consideration. This changed only after the election of President Moreno, when they were suddenly instructed to find smears against Assange and, when they didn’t, they were soon replaced. The President even took it upon himself to bless the world with his gossip, and to personally strip Assange of his asylum and citizenship without any due process of law.
   In the end it finally dawned on me that I had been blinded by propaganda, and that Assange had been systematically slandered to divert attention from the crimes he exposed. Once he had been dehumanized through isolation, ridicule and shame, just like the witches we used to burn at the stake, it was easy to deprive him of his most fundamental rights without provoking public outrage worldwide. And thus, a legal precedent is being set, through the backdoor of our own complacency, which in the future can and will be applied just as well to disclosures by The Guardian, The New York Times and ABC News.
   Very well, you may say, but what does slander have to do with torture? Well, this is a slippery slope. What may look like mere “mudslinging” in public debate, quickly becomes “mobbing” when used against the defenceless, and even “persecution” once the state is involved. Now just add purposefulness and severe suffering, and what you get is full-fledged psychological torture.
   Yes, living in an embassy with a cat and a skateboard may seem like a sweet deal when you believe the rest of the lies. But when no one remembers the reason for the hate you endure, when no one even wants to hear the truth, when neither the courts nor the media hold the powerful to account, then your refuge really is but a rubber boat in a shark-pool, and neither your cat nor your skateboard will save your life.
   Even so, you may say, why spend so much breath on Assange, when countless others are tortured worldwide? Because this is not only about protecting Assange, but about preventing a precedent likely to seal the fate of western democracy. For once telling the truth has become a crime, while the powerful enjoy impunity, it will be too late to correct the course. We will have surrendered our voice to censorship and our fate to unrestrained tyranny.—Nils Melzer

 


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