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August 6, 2014

Retrospectives: great moments in Parisian fashion history, with YSL, McQueen, Galliano, Gaultier

Lucire staff/14.05

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What are some of the great fashion moments in recent history? You’ll have seen these videos run on Lucire TV, and we’ve singled them out for an additional focus. In French and English.

1. The departure of Yves Saint Laurent
In January 2001, Yves Saint Laurent retired from the house that bears his name, with the brand’s final haute couture show and retrospective at the Hotel Inter-continental in Paris. Two thousand people were invited to the Centre Pompidou to see Saint Laurent’s 300 greatest classics, and models included Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, Jerry Hall, and Naomi Campbell. In the finalé, 40 tuxedos paraded to a song performed by Laetitia Casta. Catherine Deneuve, a long-time friend of the designer, was in tears. Saint Laurent died in 2008.
   Saint Laurent says, ‘I tried to prove that Paris was still the city of light and of haute couture, and haute couture made like this was necessary for people’s imaginations. I like seeing my models evolve and seeing how the public react and actually in that moment I feel really close to the public. I still get nervous in this profession. I’m still not used to it after 42 years. I’ve tried again to perfect this style that has now become really important in fashion, this style that I created and to which I remain loyal, as fashions pass but style stays. It’s a part of me, it’s my life. I wouldn’t know what to do; I wouldn’t be able to live if I didn’t make dresses.’

2. The shows of Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen was known for his extravagant shows, and had come to most people’s attention after he succeeded John Galliano at Givenchy in 1996. He was later hired by the Gucci Group, joining the group in 2000. Gucci had bought a controlling stake in McQueen’s own label. An extraordinary creator, McQueen was depressed after the death of his mother, and committed suicide in 2010. The video looks at some of his greatest hits.
   Said McQueen: ‘After I left college I went to Paris to look for work, like every student does, and I went to see Martin but he couldn’t afford to pay me, and then I went to Gaultier and then there was some nasty queen on the front door to Gaultier. And I thought f*** this. I was supposed to be there for five days I was back in five hours, because there was no one else I wanted to work for apart from Margiela and Gaultier …
   ‘I call myself very schizophrenic; I have so many different, you know, personalities.’
   Katy England notes in the video below, ‘He’s just got a very clever mind, and he doesn’t follow fashion, he’s not that interested in the trends. He just suddenly thinks of something that’s really really imaginative, he might be inspired by art or … he just has a very strange vision of things which suddenly comes to life. He’ll explain an image and you’ll think wow, that’s very very strong, and that will then in turn inspire a collection. I’ve never met someone else who thinks of these things, it’s just exciting really.’

3. John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002
One of John Galliano’s most controversial haute couture collections was for spring–summer 2002, where he showed one inspired by the homeless, paying tribute to the ‘ingenuity shown by the underprivileged in the way they dress,’ with unstitched dresses, jacket arms held on by pegs, the layering of trousers and torn effects. Galliano said, ‘There’s the new cut but it’s also to show the work, the delicacy of the Dior atelier’s work, and also to show that this house is a laboratory of ideas where you can thrive off the rest of the house, the ready-to-wear fashion, the collection and the accessories … that’s why I’m there, to inspire the house. I cut it up a bit, a little bit crazily and expressively … They took the dress upstairs and they made the whole patronage and everything and they came back down with the same expressive cutting which blew me away, me and Stephen [Jones] couldn’t tell the difference.’

4. Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier
Madonna, who had been friends with Jean Paul Gaultier since 1989 when he made the costumes for her Blonde Ambition tour, went to Paris in September 1994 to model the designer’s spring–summer 1995 collection. The show was memorable for both Madonna and Gaultier, for a body corset with a conical bra.
   Looking back, Gaultier says, ‘That exact date in 1989. I knew her from that, professionally because I made the costumes for the Blonde Ambition tour, so that was really fun, it was one of my most beautiful experiences I have to say. An then obviously she modelled for me. First, she modelled in a charity show in LA in support of Aids, and the second time she modelled, you recorded her, at the Musée des Arts Forains, that must have been around ’96. There you go!
   Marie-Christiane Marek summarizes the influence: ‘Madonna produced a visual shock, leaving a mark on her era and captivating a fascinated public from the end of the ’80s. She presented corseted silhouettes with conical bras, or more Jean Paul Gaultier men’s suits. Madonna, therefore, embodied the Parisian designer’s success, heralding a new feminine era with a stamp of sex appeal.’

Le départ d’Yves Saint Laurent (version française)

The departure of Yves Saint Laurent (English dub)

The shows of Alexander McQueen

John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002

Madonna défile chez Jean-Paul Gaultier (version française)

Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier (English dub)

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July 26, 2014

Bambi Northwood-Blyth named face of Ba&Sh for autumn–winter 2014–15 fashion campaign

Lucire staff/13.46

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Quentin de Briey

Bambi Northwood-Blyth, who was one of Lucire’s news-makers of 2013, has now been named the face of the international press campaign for French label Ba&Sh.
   The autumn–winter 2014–15 collection will feature Northwood-Blyth in a shoot in Barcelona by Belgian photographer Quentin de Briey. The label says that the Australian model was chosen for her ‘glamorous freshness, and her bohemian-chic allure.’
   The designers, Barbara and Sharon, said in a release, ‘We were completely seduced by Bambi, her charisma, energy and boldness.’
   The collection contrasts between ‘intensity and lightness, nobility and bestality,’ says Ba&Sh, and is meant to convey pluralism.
   The campaign’s idea centres around femininity, ‘a woman wildly in love, deliberately free and outgoing, with multiple facets,’ or what it dubs ‘ultra-femininity’.
   The campaign breaks in France and internationally from August 2014, on displays, in print and web media. Ba&Sh’s web site can be found at www.ba-sh.com.

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July 23, 2014

News round-up: Dilmah hosts high teas in New Zealand; Trish Peng searches for new face

Lucire staff/22.50

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Dilmah Tea New Zealand

Dilmah Tea hosted a series of high teas around New Zealand, promoting its socially responsible message along with the rising interest in tea mixology.
   Its Wellington stop on Tuesday, hosted by Dilmah founder Merrill J. Fernando and his son, Dilhan C. Fernando, the company’s chief marketing officer, and in the presence of Her Excellency Zodwa Lallie, South African High Commissioner, was a particular treat, with a menu designed by Dilmah Real High Tea Gold Medallist Laurent Loudeac, executive chef of the Museum Art Hotel.
   Held at the hotel’s famed Hippopotamus restaurant, guests were treated to everything from ora king salmon sashimi—which we would label as our favourite of the afternoon—to lap sang souchong yoghurt panna cotta and a lychee-infused jasmine tea and rosewater caviar, complemented by various Dilmah teas.
   The selection included Dilmah’s Ran Watte Single Region Ceylon tea, its green tea with jasmine flowers, and its rose tea with French vanilla.
   The highlight was the address given my Merrill J. Fernando, after a video looking back through the history of Dilmah and how his famed catchphrase, ‘Do try it,’ was created by a New Zealand agency.
   He spoke of how Dilmah goes beyond the requirements of Fair Trade with its ethically made tea, because those who grow the tea share in the equity. The value-added components of Dilmah are not done by international traders, but by Sri Lankans, and the company constantly puts money back into the community, funding education, health care, cultural and even business activities.
   Some rivals force down the prices that tea farmers can sell at, keeping them poor, while profiting from the value-added components in the marketing and production chain.
   Mr Fernando also stressed that Ceylon tea is the finest, and that Dilmah, to preserve that integrity, does not mix its teas with those from other countries.
   Through a Trade Me auction, the Merrill J. Fernando Charitable Foundation is also raising money for a culinary centre in Sri Lanka which will train people living with disabilities or have been disadvantaged, so that they can find employment to support themselves.
   They can be found on Trade Me, with the auctions closing on July 27. Items include Parawa Estate Ingalalla Grand Reserve 2007 wine, valued at over NZ$1,250; an individually numbered caddy of a very rare tea, FBOP 1, from the Dilmah Opapa Estate in Sri Lanka; a night for two at the Langham Hotel in Auckland; and two nights for two at the Museum Art Hotel in Wellington.
   In other New Zealand news, new label Trish Peng is running a Fresh Face modelling competition as part of her New Zealand Fashion Week début next month, with the help of L’Oréal Professionnel and Vanity Walk.
   New Zealand women are invited to enter via the Trish Peng Facebook page. Peng and Vanity Walk, a modelling agency, will judge from the uploaded photo and details.
   Entries close August 2. The winner becomes the face of the next Trish Peng campaign, opens Peng’s fashion week show, receives a modelling contract with Vanity Walk, and wins a year’s supply of L’Oréal Professionnel products.—Jack Yan, Publisher, with Lucire staff


Felicity Anderson/Trio Communications



Dilmah

Top Dilmah founder Merrill J. Fernando with Lucire publisher Jack Yan. Centre Dilmah chief marketing officer Dilhan C. Fernando and South African High Commissioner, HE Zodwa Lallie. Above Museum Art Hotel proprietor Chris Parkin with HE Zodwa Lallie.

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July 17, 2014

A number of firsts for Lucire, with issue 33 on sale today

Jack Yan/10.00

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Lucire issue 33, on sale today, marks a number of firsts and is one of the best we’ve had.
   We’ve always been very fair on who makes the cover. Sopheak Seng, our fashion and beauty editor, and I choose from all the images we have, and these include ones that he has produced as creative director or stylist. And in the years we’ve worked together, he’s opted not to put his ones ahead of others’. We’ve both gone for what is best for Lucire. Some shoots that have appeared on the cover he has worked on in a supervisory role, but others have come from our brilliant network of creatives worldwide.
   Issue 33 sees his first cover that he has directed, and it’s one we’re both exceptionally proud of. Photographed by Dave Richards, and with the A-team of Michael Beel on hair and Hil Cook on make-up, assisted by Jaye Morgan, Natalie Henderson and Andy Alsop, and modelled by Chloé Graham, it’s the first time in 17 years that we’ve cropped the Lucire logo behind the model’s head.
   We realize this technique is commonplace and it’s probably a surprise to anyone reading the above that that hasn’t happened before. And we’ve had many great images—only the best get selected for the coveted spot. But for some reason, when it came to the crunch, we opted to keep the logo complete, as have always done on the website. This time, the image was so striking that we felt it was time to take the scalpel to the logo, thanks to head designer Tanya Sooksombatisatian.
   It is Dave’s first shoot with us, so to score a cover on your first go is very impressive, though it has happened a few other times—Courtney Dailey with Laura Vandervoort in issue 29, for instance.
   I have a feeling, too, that Chloé is the first Scot to be on our cover. While a New Zealander, she hails from Glasgow, and this is rather timely with the Commonwealth Games about to commence.
   I congratulate my good friend and colleague, Sopheak, and I think this is going to be one of those memorable Lucire covers that will be cited in years to come.
   There’s plenty more inside, and you can get a taste of the articles in our issue 33 preview.
   I’m very proud of one shoot by Jon Moe in there, with our California A-team of Jamie Dorman (now in New York, but who was our pointwoman on the shoot), Lei Phillips and Carina Tafalu, and starring two former Miss Universe New Zealands, Laural Barrett and Samantha Lochhead, each in their second appearances in Lucire. Jon lovingly shot this at Riviera 31 at the Sofitel Los Angeles, and I acknowledge our US west coast editor, Elyse Glickman, for her connections with Pivotal Public Relations in getting us the location.
   It’s not the only cover that we can talk about: some of you will have seen Dorit Thies’s and Olga Fonda’s announcement of their cover for Lucire Arabia. (The story is in issue 33, too, but it was strongly felt that Dorit’s shot was the best to début our title there. When you see the pages, you’ll also notice why this is an incredible shoot with the Vampire Diaries star.) We’ll have more on that officially soon, but, for now, you can get your issue 33 through the Lucire website, in print, for tablets (Ipad and Android), and as a downloadable PDF.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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July 13, 2014

Riley Keough’s de Grisogono shoot images from Cannes released

Lucire staff/14.25

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Emanuele Scorcelletti

Photographs of actress Riley Keough modelling for de Grisogono at the Grand Hyatt Hôtel Martinez, where she was based during the Festival de Cannes in May 2014, have been released.
   Using one of the suites, Keough modelled wearing various de Grisogono jewellery items, including the latest Allegra line (in Lucire issue 33), as well as designs from the Gocce and Gypsy collections.
   Paris-based Italian photographer Emanuele Scorcelletti, well known for his portraits and his work with luxury brands, photographed Keough.
   The Allegra collection is ‘Dedicated to a new generation of women, who dare to express their radiance, and explore different shapes and jewelled expressions of their individuality,’ says de Grisogono.
   Keough, who is the granddaughter of Elvis Presley and Priscilla Presley, began her modelling career in her teens, and first appeared on an international runway for Dolce & Gabbana.
   Her acting début was in The Runaways (2010), and she soon landed the female lead in The Good Doctor (2011) opposite Orlando Bloom. She has recently completed filming on Mad Max: Fury Road, alongside Charlize Theron, Tom Hardy, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.



Emanuele Scorcelletti

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July 12, 2014

Georgia May Jagger, Eva Padberg, Franziska Knuppe, Anna Julia Kapfelsperger party with Reserved

Lucire staff/4.37

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Andreas Rentz

Georgia May Jagger was guest of honour at Reserved’s German launch at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Jagger, who also serves as the new label’s face for autumn–winter 2014–15 and walked the catwalk on the night, was among numerous celebrities, including Franziska Knuppe, Daniel Brühl, Jasmin Gerat, Elyas M’Barek, Eva Padberg, Anna-Maria Mühe, Anna Julia Kapfelsperger and Anastasia Zampounidis. Reserved’s ‘Let’s Fashion’ party at Alte Münze Berlin was anything but reserved, with its 1,200 guests.
   DJs Beck To Beck, Terranova, Oskar Melzer, Adam Port and Rampa, and Niki Pauls performed, as well as indie band Oh Land.
   The launch, which showed the autumn–winter 2014–15 line, rather than the spring–summer 2015 one, marks the expansion of LPP SA’s brand into the German market. Reserved already has 500 stores in eastern and central Europe, and this month it will open its online store for German customers. Real-world shops will appear in the autumn at Recklinghausen, Stuttgart, Bremen and Hannover, with further stores planned in every main centre, as well as London and Paris, and in Croatia and Qatar.
   Polish-based LPP’s other brands are Cropp, Mohito, House and Sinsay. The company has revenues of over €1,000 million.






















Andreas Rentz

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July 11, 2014

Bar Refaeli, Sylvie Meis, Hilary Swank, Marcia Cross, Franziska Knuppe on the front rows at Berlin

Lucire staff/3.56

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Franziska Krug

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin’s spring–summer 2015 collections saw celebrity front rows at two of the first shows: Marc Cain and Laurèl.
   Marc Cain presented a collection at the Erika Hess Ice Stadium with a circus theme, and drew in an international crowd, including former WAG and model Sylvie Meis, Hilary Swank, Marcia Cross (who had made the journey especially for the Marc Cain show), Motsi Mabuse, Franziska Knuppe, and Nina Eichinger.
   His collection showed a return to pastel tones, with stripes, polka dots, flowers and animal prints.
   Marc Cain founder and chairman Helmut Schlotterer says that the label manages to reinvent itself every season and looks forward to strong sales.
   Laurèl, meanwhile, started its show with airline announcements for ‘Laurèl Airways flight LL 1978 to Berlin’ and ‘On behalf of the Laurèl crew, we wish you a very pleasant flight to our Bohemian Summer Islands. Thank you for choosing Laurèl Airways. Bon voyage!’
   The “dream destination” theme wasn’t a case of Caribbean brightness. Laurèl showed plant prints, frills and flowing pants as its take on a summer holiday: yellow, green and blue were the main colours here with only a few in fiery red and black. ‘Bohemian’ was accurate, but the spring–summer 2015 wearer could also be described as independent and confident.
   Guests included model Bar Refaeli and her brother Dor, tattooist Scott Campbell, Nikolai Kinski with Ina Paule Klink, Franziska Knuppe, Wolke Hegenbarth, Heino and Marie Jeanette Ferch, Barbara Becker and Noah Becker, Jana Pallaske, Vicky Krieps, Pegah Ferydoni, Dominic Raacke with Alexandra Rohleder, Fritzi Haberlandt, Jette Joop, Viktoria Lauterbach, Judith Milberg, Giovanni Zarella, Mirja DuMont, Minu Barati-Fischer, Mariella Ahrens with her daughter Isabella, Martin Krug and Julia Trainer, Jennifer Ulrich, Maria Ehrich, Aino Laberenz and director Bora Dagtekin.

Marc Cain














Laurèl























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July 10, 2014

Eva Green previews her Campari 2015 calendar appearance: video and photos

Lucire staff/14.13

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Francesco Pizzo

French actress Eva Green is the face of the 2015 Campari calendar, entitled Mythology Mixology. Campari is teasing the calendar with behind-the-scenes images and a video, featuring Green, announcing the project.
   This 16th edition has been photographed by Julia Fullerton-Batten, an acclaimed fine art photographer, and the first female who has shot a Campari calendar.
   The 12 months celebrate Campari’s history and its best loved classic cocktails. Each month tells the story behind the cocktail, with anecdotes and trivia.
   Campari believes that there has been a classic trend over the last decade, and an interest in history, which the calendar attempts to tap into.
   While some may dispute the presence of a classic trend, Campari has been on the pulse in recent years with its calendars. Notably, in 2008, Jessica Alba appeared in its 10th anniversary edition. Other calendar stars include Salma Hayek, Eva Mendes, Milla Jovovich, Penélope Cruz and Uma Thurman.
   Green, whose Penny Dreadful series is currently netting her headlines in the lead role of Vanessa Ives, came to prominence in Bertolucci’s The Dreamers (2002), and as Bond girl Vesper Lynd in Casino Royale (2006), for which she won a BAFTA. She has recently been seen in 300: Rise of an Empire and will soon be seen in Sin City: a Dame to Kill for.
   ‘To work with an iconic worldwide brand such as Campari is an honour and a privilege. There is something very special about this year’s theme as it strikes a compelling and almost magical balance between the classic and the contemporary. At the root of each image is this rich sense of history behind each of Campari’s best-loved cocktails but they are presented in a way that is ultra-modern, exuding imagination and style. It’s a thing of incredible beauty and clearly shows that whilst some of these recipes are over 100 years old, they are still relevant to and adored in today’s world,’ said Green in a release.
   Fullerton-Benton is known for her series, Teenage Stories (2005), which followed the transition of a teenage girl into womanhood. Campari says that the photos will carry her hallmarks of creative settings, unusual locations and cinematic lighting.
   ‘Campari has always had an inherent ability to recreate itself and keep the brand image fresh, inspiring and imaginative—a goal I constantly strive towards in my own work, too. This year’s theme was an interesting challenge, as there was an important job to do in terms of taking historical anecdotes and invigorating them with a modern edge. I’m confident we managed to strike that delicate balance with this year’s imagery,’ says Fullerton-Batten.
   Bob Kunze-Concewitz, CEO of Gruppo Campari says, ‘Though there has always been a sense of timelessness around our classic cocktails, we’ve been hearing reports from bartenders all over the world that there has been a surging popularity for classic recipes like the Negroni and the Americano. This year’s Campari Calendar is designed to celebrate those enduring recipes and the heritage behind them, so we’re very much looking forward to unveiling it later in the year.’








Francesco Pizzo

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