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January 12, 2017

Rankin photographs Triumph’s spring 2017 campaign, starring Jessica Hart

Lucire staff/10.42



Triumph has hired top photographer Rankin to shoot its spring–summer 2017 lingerie campaign, with Australian model Jessica Hart its main face for the season.
   Triumph says the season marks a new creative direction, though the message isn’t dissimilar to its previous one: women should be able to find the correct intimate apparel to fit them. The brand has continued to use its Find the One message.
   There is more of an acknowledgement that women have many roles in their lives, and that Triumph can fit every occasion.
   Rankin said of the campaign, ‘The images are modern, accessible and incredibly confident. We’re really pushing the fact that it’s not just for the “perfect” women. Triumph is for every woman and every woman can wear Triumph and feel really confident in it.’
   On Jessica Hart, Rankin said, ‘She is the sort of person I’ve always wanted to photograph. I love empowered women and she’s really empowered.’
   Hart said, ‘It’s a really cool new look and I’m super excited to be part of it—representing this playful side of Triumph that speaks to all women. Triumph understands that women play so many roles in their everyday life—we’re fascinating creatures! A huge part of being yourself is feeling comfortable. One day you might feel more like being cozy and supported, another you might want to feel sexy and strong. The exceptional fit and comfort of Triumph products lets you be whoever you want to be and that’s something I really love.’







December 16, 2016

UK modelling agencies fined £1·5 million; Models 1, Premier and Storm to appeal decision

Lucire staff/17.08


Above: Models 1 is one of three agencies appealing a decision by the UK Competition and Markets Authority.

The UK Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) has fined five modelling agencies a total of £1,533,500 for collusion, driving prices up for modelling services. The five agencies named were FM Models, Models 1, Premier, Storm and Viva, and their trade association, the Association of Model Agents (AMA).
   Models 1, Premier and Storm have stated that they would appeal the decision, calling the CMA’s findings ‘wholly mistaken’ and that the fines were disproportionate, outside the Authority’s own guidance.
   John Horner, managing director of Models 1, said, ‘We reached our decision to appeal the CMA’s findings without hesitation. It is clear that even after a 20-month investigation the CMA has failed to understand our complex industry.’ The agencies have said that the CMA has not stated any evidence that their activities have had a discernible effect on competition in the UK.
   â€˜The CMA is penalizing modelling agencies for seeking to maintain professional standards within the industry whilst also protecting the interests of young and vulnerable people,’ added Horner. ‘They are not improving the competitive environment but are damaging a small but important UK industry which is recognized as successful internationally.’
   The three agencies said their activities protected models’ interests and ensured a sustainable market that benefited consumers, the economy and society.
   In fact, they argue that competition is intense, with 10,000 models and 58 modelling agencies operating in the UK, and buyer power can be far stronger than that of agencies. They also point to falling revenue from modelling fees, which have dropped by 10 per cent since 2011.
   The CMA alleges that the price-fixing took place between April 2013 and March 2015 at the minimum, over a variety of assignments, from fashion magazine shoots to advertising campaigns. However, the services of top models were not affected by the collusion. This infringed the Competition Act 1998, which deems such anticompetitive behaviour illegal.
   â€˜The parties regularly and systematically exchanged information and discussed prices in the context of negotiations with particular customers. In some cases, the agencies agreed to fix minimum prices or agreed a common approach to pricing,’ said the CMA in a release. The CMA says that the AMA issued email circulars that pressured members to resist prices that were too low.
   The agencies appealing the decision say that the only communication that took place between them dealt with usage and publication rights, not the prices of modelling assignments. Warnings were issued about inappropriate contract terms over image rights, which have become a major issue since online retailing.
   The fines for each agency were: FM Models, £251,000; Models 1, £394,000; Premier, £150,000; Storm, £491,000; and Viva, £245,000. The AMA was fined £2,500.
   Penalties have been announced in France and Italy after investigations into the modelling services’ sector there.
   Yasmin Le Bon, Hannah Cassidy and former British Fashion Council COO Simon Ward have publicly defended the agencies.

December 14, 2016

Gigi Hadid poses naked for Stuart Weitzman’s spring 2017 campaign

Lucire staff/11.37



Mario Testino

Gigi Hadid poses naked, save for her Stuart Weitzman metallic satin ankle boots, in the company’s upcoming campaign for spring 2017, photographed by Mario Testino.
   It’s not the first time the model of the moment (or the year, according to the British Fashion Council) has posed nude for the brand: its spring 2016 campaign featured her alongside model colleagues Joan Smalls and Lily Aldridge in a headline-grabbing shot by Mario Testino in December last year.
   The boots are in Stuart Weitzman’s Clinger style.
   A second shot sees Hadid wear a loose white blouse with white trousers, complementing her sparkling, jewelled sneakers.
   The images were released prior to Stuart Weitzman releasing full details of its spring 2017 campaign.
   Hadid has also signed up as a designer for Stuart Weitzman, with her first pair, the Gigi boot, making its first appearance in October.
   Stuart Weitzman has also committed to build three schools, one each in Ghana, Guatemala and Laos, during the autumn 2016 season.

Supermodel Kate Moss to be the face of Dutch label Nikkie from autumn ’17

Lucire staff/10.47

Dutch label Nikkie, founded by Nikkie Plessen in 2011, has scored a coup by securing supermodel Kate Moss as its brand ambassador.
   Moss will make her début for Nikkie for its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection.
   Plessen announced the news during her spring–summer 2017 collection presentation in Amsterdam, attended by Moss.
   In a release, Plessen said, ‘I am incredibly proud of the fact that supermodel Kate is the new face of Nikkie. Kate Moss personifies precisely what I want to express through my fashion label: she is strong and tough but at the same time also feminine and sexy. The fact that she wishes to represent Nikkie as its muse is of course fantastic. For me personally, Kate has also always been the ultimate embodiment of style. Seeing how we immediately got on so well with one other during our first meeting, and knowing that she will now become the face of Nikkie, is a dream come true.’
   Nikkie is represented in 15 of its own stores, and is available at Galeries Lafayette, Takashimaya, Robinsons and Le Marais. The label ‘plugs the gap between high-end and high-street fashion labels,’ in its own words, and has been worn by Natasha Poly, Tyra Banks, Kristina Bazan and Raline Shah.

December 10, 2016

NGV and Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture exhibition, starting August ’17

Lucire staff/1.57



Wayne Taylor

Top: National Gallery of Victoria and House of Dior announce House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture at NGV International, opening August 2017. At the media announcement on Friday, Sandra Sundelin, Alejandra Zuluaga, Ella Bond, Maddison Lukes, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel model various Dior designs. Above: Ella Bond models the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection, Maddison Lukes wears the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection, and Bela Pelacio Hazewinkel the Abandon dress from the autumn–winter 1948–9 collection.

The National Gallery of Victoria kept media in suspense as it led up to its unveiling of its major exhibition for 2017, The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture.
   Beginning August 27, 2017, and running through November 7, the exhibition is a collaboration between the NGV and the House of Dior, and will feature over 140 garments from the company.
   The exhibition covers everything from Dior’s New Look spring 1947 collection to contemporary designs from its first female head designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri (see Lucire issue 36). Iconic designs from the intervening years will also be shown, including work by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, and Raf Simons. It will also feature original sketches, photographs, toiles, archival material, and multimedia displays, says the Gallery.
   The Christian Dior spring 1948 fashion parade at David Jones Sydney, which featured house models in 50 designs, is also explored. David Jones serves as the exhibition’s principal partner.
   â€˜It is a great pleasure and honour for the House of Dior to be celebrating its anniversary in 2017 in Melbourne. This exhibition will be the biggest Dior retrospective ever held in Australia. It will cover 70 years of creation, presenting the emblematic work of Christian Dior and his successors, including Maria Grazia Chiuri, who arrived last July and is the first woman at the head of the couture house,’ said Sidney Toledano, president and CEO of Christian Dior Couture.
   A black-tie gala will take place on August 26, 2017, with proceeds supporting the NGV fashion and textiles’ collection.
   Tickets for the exhibition are now available from the NGV online, retailing at A$26 for adults, concession A$23·50, A$10 for children aged 5 to 15, and families (two adults and three children) for A$65.

Interview clips

With subtitles

Promotional video

The Christian Dior story (archival video)


Copyright ©1954 Mark Shaw/mptvimages.com


Christian Dior





Wayne Taylor

Above, from top: Christian Dior adjusts the accessories to the Zaire dress, on his star model Victoire, during rehearsal for the autumn–winter 1954–5 haute couture show. Christian Dior and model, c. 1950. From the media announcement, Ella Bond in the Dior bar suit from the spring–summer 1947 haute couture collection. Sandra Sundelin models the Dior Embuscade suit from the autumn–winter 1950–1 haute couture collection and Alejandra Zuluaga the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection. Alejandra Zuluaga in the Gruau gown from the autumn–winter 1949–50 haute couture collection and Maddison Lukes in the Francis Poulenc dress from the spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection. Maddison Lukes wears Dior’s Francis Poulenc dress from his spring–summer 1950 haute couture collection.

Supermodel Kate Moss stars in official video for ‘The Wonder of You’, from second Elvis Presley–RPO album

Lucire staff/0.45

Sony’s The Wonder of You by Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, a new album featuring 15 tracks from the King of Rock ’n’ Roll, has a high-profile promoter in the form of supermodel Kate Moss.
   Moss appears in the official video for ‘The Wonder of You’, where she appears in a custom-made black leather suit recalling Presley’s 1968 one in his NBC TV special (later referred to as the Comeback Special), as well as several other outfits inspired by his looks.
   She lip-syncs part of the track in the black-and-white video, which appeared on Presley’s official Vevo channel from Friday, and is embedded below. It is the first in a series to promote the album.
   The video was filmed at Abbey Road Studios, where the new album was recorded. Moxie Pictures’ Vaughan Arnell came up with the concept, after he noticed there was a resemblance between classic Presley images and some of Moss’s fashion shots.
   The new album, produced by Don Reedman and Nick Patrick, is a follow-up to last year’s If I Can Dream: Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, which sold one million units and débuted at number one on the UK album charts. Presley became the biggest solo artist in UK music history with the début of that album, overtaking Madonna.
   A bonus track on The Wonder of You by Elvis Presley with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra sees Presley in a duet of ‘Just Pretend’ with German songstress Hélène Fischer. Other tracks on the album are ‘A Big Hunk o’ Love’, ‘I’ve Got a Thing About You Baby’, ‘Suspicious Minds’, ‘Don’t’, ‘I Just Can’t Help Believin”, ‘Just Pretend’, ‘Love Letters’, ‘Amazing Grace’, ‘Starting Today’, ‘Kentucky Rain’, ‘Memories’, ‘Let It Be Me’, ‘Always on My Mind’, and, of course, ‘The Wonder of You’.

December 8, 2016

Gigi Hadid headlines Reebok #PerfectNever event with Aly Raisman, Lena Dunham, Ruby Rose, Zoë Kravitz, Jessica Mendoza

Lucire staff/22.19


Fresh from her recognition as model of the year at the British Fashion Awards, Gigi Hadid appeared as the high-profile headliner #PerfectNever Revolution event for Reebok, for whom she is a spokeswoman. Hadid, along with Olympic medal-winning gymnast Aly Raisman, actresses Lena Dunham, Ruby Rose and Zoë Kravitz, joined broadcaster Jessica Mendoza as host in a panel discussion on the notion of perfection, tying in with Reebok’s Be More Human campaign.
   The panel discussed the pressures of perfection and how they combat impossible standards. Originally streamed live, it can be viewed on Reebok’s website, at reebok.com/perfectneverpanel. For those who get redirected because of Reebok’s national websites, it is embedded below instead.
   Hadid said, ‘A lot of people expect us to be perfect, and it’s often the times when we haven’t been perfect that have made us more human and more relatable.
   â€˜My Mom always talked about growing in different areas, and I think that’s really important. I think that’s where sports became a really big part of my life, and I learned many ways that you learn from your mistakes that I use in every aspect of my life now.’
   Dunham said, ‘The reason that I started doing my job was to connect with other women, with other people, and to let them know that their flaws, their complexities and their darkness were an important part of who they are. So any time I can engage with something that busts open narratives, traditional narratives, about who women are supposed to be, I’m there.’
   Ruby Rose said, ‘The #PerfectNever campaign resonated with me because I think that it embodies female empowerment and it’s about being authentic to yourself, being true to yourself and being the best that you can be. We are all so unique and if you can’t be true to that and be authentic to who you were born to be, then you are not living the life you deserve.’
   Kravitz said, ‘The #PerfectNever campaign is important to me because I think it’s something we don’t see enough in the world. I think it’s important for women to embrace the fact that we’re not perfect and celebrate that.’
   Mendoza called the event ‘one of the most powerful panels I’ve been on.’
   Inga Stenta, senior director at Reebok, noted, ‘Reebok’s mission is to empower people to be the best versions of themselves not just physically, but mentally and socially.’
   Hannah Jeter, Olivia Culpo and Shanina Shaik also joined the audience at the #PerfectNever Revolution, representing Six: 02.
   Hadid then joined guests in a mass boxing workout with trainer and Gotham Gym owner Rob Piela. To conclude, guests saw an installation where balloons featuring negative ideas turned into positive ones, while social media commentary hashtagged #PerfectNever also featured.

December 5, 2016

Video: British Fashion Awards 2016: Gigi Hadid is model of the year, Simone Rocha and Craig Green scoop top designer honours

Cecilia Xu/23.51




British Fashion Council

In a room of 4,000 outstanding individuals, designers, supermodels and stars, the 2016 British Fashion Awards took place in London tonight. With many renowned and iconic designers such as Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Donatella Versace present, as well as the new and upcoming, the show sure was a varietal and multifarious mix.
   Of the top awards of the night, Craig Green won the British Menswear Designer Award, while Simone Rocha won the British Womenswear Designer Award, and Alexander McQueen won the dominant British Brand of the Year award.
   David Beckham presented the Outstanding Achievement Award to Ralph Lauren, a celebratory award to the individual for their significant contribution to the global fashion industry. Gigi Hadid scooped her sister Bella and best friend Kendall Jenner in the International Model of the Year Award, a defining and prestigious award so it was no surprise to see emotions on stage as she accepted the honour.
   Jaden and Willow Smith were surprised with the New Fashion Icon award; with no nomination prior, the award comes as a revelation on the night.
   My personal adoration this year was for Gucci, so it came as no surprise to see Alessandro Michele take home the Accessories’ Designer of the Year award. With such a rich and flamboyant collection for Gucci in 2016, this prestige was well deserved, don’t we all agree? Gucci, all in all, has done extremely well this year as a wrap, as the brand sweeps away two awards, with Marco Bizzarri taking the International Business Leader award.
   Vêtements, an urban and streetwear brand that has been taking Instagram by storm, and the likes of the youth especially in Asia this year, won the award for International Urban Luxury Brand.
   Britain’s Emerging Talent Award was taken by Molly Goddard, Franca Sozzani won the Swarovski Award for Positive Change, Bruce Weber, as announced earlier, was honoured with the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and the International Ready-to-Wear Designer was taken by Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga. And last but not least, 100 Years of British Vogue took the Special Recognition Award of 2016.
   VIPs attending included David Gandy, Molly Goddard, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Bailey, MBE, Nicole Scherzinger, Derek Blasberg, Adwoa Aboah, David and Victoria Beckham, Jack Whitehall, Karlie Kloss, Lily Donaldson, Vivienne Westwood, Nadja Swarovski, Abbey Clancy, Jourdan Dunn, Olivia Palermo, Eva Herzigová, Winnie Harlow, Anya Hindmarch, Giovanna Engelbert, Laura Bailey, Julien Macdonald, Jordan Kale Barrett, Hamish Bowles, and Lady Gaga. The British Fashion Council’s Dame Natalie Massenet and Caroline Rush looked like stars as they walked the red carpet.—Cecilia Xu








British Fashion Council

Red carpet

Molly Goddard, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Bailey, MBE

Dame Natalie Massenet, Nadia Swarovski, Caroline Rush, CBE

Lady Gaga

Simone Rocha, Derek Blasberg, Adwoa Aboah

Eva Herzigová, Jack Whitehall, Amber Valletta, Winnie Harlow

Anya Hindmarch, Giovanna Engelbert, Laura Bailey

Julien Macdonald, Nicole Scherzinger, Jordan Kale Barrett, Hamish Bowles

Craig Green

100 Years of British Vogue

Simone Rocha

Franca Sozzani

Ralph Lauren

Molly Goddard

Bruce Weber

Vêtements

Marco Bizzarri

Alessandro Michele

Alexander McQueen

Demna Gvasalia

Jean Paul Gaultier reports for Swarovski

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