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September 23, 2016

Gillian Saunders takes top honours at 2016 World of Wearable Art Awards’ Show, with Supernova

Lucire staff/11.00




WOW

New Zealand designer Gillian Saunders has scooped the Brancott Estate Supreme Award at tonight’s World of Wearable Art (WOW) Awards’ Show. Saunders, who had entered 15 garments before her winning entry, Supernova, has won eight awards prior to 2016, but this is the first time she has taken out the top prize.
   Saunders, who was born in England, has been involved in television and theatre for most of her working life. She was trained in Yorkshire, and went on to Christchurch, New Zealand, where she worked as a props’ maker for the Court Theatre.
   â€˜I had been making stage props for theatre and TV for years. WOW was the perfect challenge—could I make props for the body as well?’ she said.
   Supernova was inspired by ‘Thierry Mugler’s Chimera dress [from the autumn–winter 1997–8 collection], … the iridescent spiny fins of the Hippocampus from the Percy Jackson movie The Sea of Monsters, and some incredible NASA images taken by the Hubble Telescope,’ she noted. ‘Once all these elements were combined, Supernova was brought to life.
   â€˜The large gems represent new stars being born and the dark shadows represent deep space. Each scale has been individually cut, shaded with marker pens and then hand-sewn on to the garment. Each gem has had its sticky backing removed and then glued on by hand.’
   Saunders also won the Avant-Garde section in this year’s competition, judged by WOW founder Dame Suzie Moncrieff, Zambesi’s Elisabeth Findlay, and sculptor Gregor Kregar.
   Dame Suzie said, ‘Supernova has the design innovation, the construction quality and vibrant stage presence in performance to win WOW’s top award.’
   Saunders’ 2013 design, Inkling, won the Weta Creature Carnival Award and an internship for her at Academy Award-winning Weta Workshop. It is currently part of the WOW international exhibition, touring around the world, and presently at the EMP Museum in Seattle, Washington, where it will be displayed till January, after which the exhibition will head to the Peabody Essex Museum in Boston, Mass.
   She also won the Avant-Garde section in 2007 with Equus: behind Closed Doors, while in 2009, Tikini was second in the Air New Zealand South Pacific section.
   Designers from New Zealand, China, India, England, Australia, and the USA won awards in each section.
   The American Express Open section this year saw Renascence, by Yuru Ma and Siyu Fang of Shanghai take first place. The Spyglass Creative Excellence section was won by Mai (I), by Pritam Singh and Vishnu Ramesh of Gujarat. Queen Angel, by Adam McAlavey of London, won the MJF Lighting Performance Art section.
   Baroque Star, by Natasha English and Tatyanna Meharry of Christchurch, won the Weta Workshop Costume and Film section, netting the duo a four-week internship at Weta Workshop, plus travel, accommodation, and prize money.
   The Wellington Airport Aotearoa section was won by Maria Tsopanaki and Dimitry Mavinis of London, with their creation Princess Niwareka. The World of Wearable Art and Classic Cars Museum Bizarre Bra section was won by Julian Hartzog of Tarpon Springs, Fla., with Come Fly with Me.
   Of the special awards, Dame Suzie chose Incognita, by Ian Bernhard of Auckland, as the most innovative garment, giving it the WOW Factor Award. Renewal, by Alexa Cach, Miodrag Guberinic and Corey Gomes, won the First-Time Entrant Award. The Knight by Jiawen Gan of the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology won the Student Innovation Award. The Sustainability Award, recognizing the protection of our environment and the use of materials that would otherwise be discarded, was won by Bernise Milliken of Auckland, for Grandeer. Digital Stealth Gods, by Dylan Mulder of Wellington, won the Wearable Technology Award. The Wellington International Award, given to the best international entry, was won by Daisy May Collingridge of Woldingham, Surrey, England, for Lippydeema. Collingridge also won the UK–Europe Design Award with this entry.
   Khepri, by Miodrag Guberinic and Alexa Cach of New York, NY, won the Americas Design Award. Yu Tan of Shanghai won the Asia Design Award with The Renaissance Happens Again, while Cascade, by Victoria Edgar of Geelong, Victoria, won the Australia and South Pacific Design Award.
   The David Jones New Zealand Design Award was won by Voyage to Revolution, by Carolyn Gibson of Auckland.
   The Cirque du Soleil Performance Art Costume Award, chosen by Denise Tétreault, Costumes Lifecycle and Creative Spaces Director of the Cirque du Soleil, was won by Digital Stealth Gods, by Dylan Mulder. Mulder receives prize money, flights and accommodation for a one-month internship at Cirque du Soleil’s headquarters in Montréal, Québec.
   WOW runs in Wellington, New Zealand, through to October 9, and will be seen by 58,000 people live during its run. It employs over 350 cast and crew.
   This year, 133 entries by 163 designers (some worked in pairs) were received, competing for a prize pool of NZ$165,000.



WOW


Renascence, by Yuru Ma and Siyu Fang, Shanghai.


Mai (I), by Pritam Singh and Vishnu Ramesh, Gujarat.


Queen Angel, by Adam McAlavey, London.


Baroque Star, by Natasha English and Tatyanna Meharry, Christchurch, New Zealand.


Princess Niwareka, by Maria Tsopanaki and Dimitri Mavinis, London.


Come Fly with Me, by Julian Hartzog, Tarpon Springs, Fla.


Incognita, by Ian Bernhard, at AUT, Auckland.


Renewal, by Alexa Cach, Miodrag Guberinic and Corey Gomes.


Grandeer, by Bernise Milliken, Auckland.


Digital Stealth Gods, by Dylan Mulder, Wellington.


Lippydeema, by Daisy May Collingridge, Woldingham, Surrey.


Khepri, by Miodrag Guberinic and Alexa Cach, New York.


The Renaissance Happens Again, by Yu Tan, Shanghai.


Cascade by Victoria Edgar, Geelong, Victoria.


Voyage to Revolution by Carolyn Gibson, Auckland.

August 31, 2016

Mumm showcases Grand Cordon, delivering by drone; Anna White launches; Karl Lagerfeld débuts autumn campaign

Bhavana Bhim/19.24




Karl Lagerfeld

On August 30 and 31, the new Mumm Grand Cordon champagne was exhibited at Croatia’s Hula Hula Beach Club. For each order of champagne at the Club, a bottle was flown over the sea by a drone. Music accompanied the delivery—those receiving the champagne would get a particularly special experience, emphasizing Mumm’s current ‘celebrate’ theme, and its taste for daring innovation.
   The new bottle was created by Ross Lovegrove and has no front label. The G. H. Mumm signature and emblem are printed directly on to the glass, while the Cordon Rouge sash is actually a real red ribbon indented in the glass. The new design meant changes to the traditional champagne production process.
   Karl Lagerfeld Paris has launched its autumn 2016 advertising campaign, Love from Paris, Karl ××, coinciding with the label’s launch in North America. Lagerfeld himself art-directed and photographed the campaign, which was styled by Charlotte Stockdale, and modelled by Joan Smalls and Hailey Baldwin. It’s a predominantly black-and-white collection with colour splashes, featuring prêt-à-porter clothes and accessories.
   Also on the theme of new and luxury: a new leathergoods label, Anna White, has launched in New Zealand, with a contemporary line consisting of the AW1 tote, Liberty shoulder bag and Protagonist clutch. Right now, Anna White is also offering a limited-edition Classique tote, retailing at NZ$650. The range has simple lines with a quality look. It’s the ideal chance to own stylish bags before others jump on board—Anna White’s off to a good start.—Bhavana Bhim with Lucire staff



August 3, 2016

Raf Simons appointed chief creative officer of Calvin Klein

Lucire staff/13.20


Willy Vanderperre

Raf Simons, formerly of Jil Sander and Christian Dior, has been appointed chief creative officer of Calvin Klein, including all its sub-brands.
   Calvin Klein, Inc. said in a release it wished to unify all its brands (Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home) under a single creative vision.
   Simons’ first collections will appear for the fall 2017 season. He will oversee all aspects of design, global marketing, communications, and what the company calls ‘Visual Creative Services’.
   Pieter Mulier was appointed as creative director, working under Simons. Mulier will execute Simons’ creative and design vision for the ready-to-wear ranges, and manage all men’s and women’s design teams under the Calvin Klein brand.
   The company is targeting US$10,000 million in global retail sales. Bringing Calvin Klein Jeans and Calvin Klein Underwear back under the Calvin Klein, Inc. umbrella in 2013 was part of this strategy.
   â€˜The arrival of Raf Simons as chief creative officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,’ said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. ‘Not since Mr Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.’

Filed under: design, fashion, Lucire, New York
July 26, 2016

News in brief: new releases from Kenneth Cole and Madam C. J. Walker; London Fashion Week on Instagram

Lucire staff/12.11

Kenneth Cole’s Black Bold fragrance, from Parlux, is an evolution of the earlier Kenneth Cole Black. The men’s fragrance, on sale in August, is inspired by New York, and is aimed at ‘the man who will take on any challenge, regardless of the odds and who is brave enough to believe that they can make an impact,’ says the company. Kenneth Cole himself notes, ‘For more than 30 years, the company has embraced the essence of New York—its boldness, its energy, and its diversity. I wanted Black Bold to do just that: to celebrate the confident individuals who are the protagonists in their own personal stories of resilience, optimism, and ambition.’
   Cole collaborated with Firmenich master perfumer Harry Fremont. The new scent has top notes of citrus and herbal tones, rounded out with ground nutmeg and a touch of lotus flower, and finished with elements of wood and leathery musks. The campaign, featuring model and artist David Alexander Flinn, was shot by Gregory Harris. The eau de parfum begins at US$46 for 1 fl oz; US$58 for 1·7 fl oz; and US$76 for 3·4 oz.
   Meanwhile, Madam C. J. Walker Beauty Culture’s Jamaican Black Castor & Murumuru Oils Defining Butter Crème has launched at Sephora and Sephora.com, retailing at US$26. The new hair formula revives and gives body to hair, helping give soft curls. The Crème features murumuru oil, giving a conditioning coating that seals in moisture. It is paraben-, sulphate-, and phthalate-free.
   Finally, the British Fashion Council has joined the Instagram age, and invites netizens to follow London Fashion Week for spring–summer 2017 at @londonfashionweek.

July 19, 2016

Gigi Hadid helms Tommy Hilfiger’s The Girl fragrance campaign

Bhavana Bhim/15.18

Tommy Hilfiger has announced the launch of The Girl by Tommy Hilfiger, a new eau de toilette, with a campaign featuring Gigi Hadid, the company’s global ambassador for womenswear, accessories and fragrance.
   Launching at the end July 2016, the new scent is anchored in a dynamic digital campaign, which reflects Gigi’s optimistic attitude, confidence and effortlessly cool style. As part of her ambassadorship, Gigi has also teamed with the iconic American designer to create her first capsule collection, which further celebrates her modern take on style fused with Hilfiger’s signature “classic American cool” heritage.
   Hadid explained, ‘The Girl means being true to yourself and having fun while you’re at it. For me, that’s appreciating every moment, laughing at myself and surrounding myself with everything that makes me feel happy.’ Her influential attitude and fun-loving personality is encapsulated in the campaign.
   The scent opens with a burst of green pear, violet leaf and green figleaves before moving to the heart of velvety jasmine petals and silky muguet. Cedarwood and cashmeran envelop the fragrance for its signature finish that captures Hadid’s sense of individuality and confidence.
   The Girl by Tommy Hilfiger eau de toilette will be available at exclusive retailers.—Bhavana Bhim

July 16, 2016

Launch of John Varvatos’s new fragrance, Bad-Boy Biker, at New York Men’s Fashion Week

Bhavana Bhim/2.56

John Varvatos introduced his newest fragrance, Dark Rebel Rider, during a celebratory concert featuring Tyler Bryant and the Shakedown at his New York City Bowery store.
   The event was held immediately following the John Varvatos spring–summer 2017 fashion show on July 14. The night featured a special performance by Tyler Bryant and the Shakedown, a band specially selected by John Varvatos. There to support the Dark Rebel Rider launch were musicians Machine Gun Kelly and Travis Mills, as well as actor Corey Hawkins and athlete–model Dale Moss.
   â€˜Dark Rebel Rider is an extension of the Dark Rebel fragrance collection, which originally launched in 2015. The fragrance is inspired by the bad-boy biker, who walks to his own beat and has an edge but also doesn’t try too hard,’ said John Varvatos. ‘Just like my clothes, the Dark Rebel Rider fragrance is iconic, timeless and represents a courageous attitude. It is a clear expression of a personality that defies the norm.’
   The alluring scent features bitter orange, saffron with black violet and Somalian frankincense amongst the heart of the fragrance. The fragrance is the result of a long-standing collaboration between Varvatos and Givaudan vice-president of perfumery, Rodrigo Flores-Roux. ‘Dark Rebel Rider captures the heart and soul of rebelliousness and bad boy idols through ultra-sexy leather and ambery notes,’ said Flores-Roux. ‘It is luminous but has incredible gravitas and depth; it is supple and sensual but delivers a punch. It is voluminous but never heavy, it is an extraordinary olfactive chiaroscuro.’
   The fragrance is available now exclusively at Bloomingdale’s, and other retailers beginning August 2016, with an MSRP of US$89 for 4·2 fl oz.—Bhavana Bhim

July 13, 2016

Ellen DeGeneres launches eyewear line in collaboration with Modo

Bhavana Bhim/17.04


Ellen DeGeneres has launched her own range of eyewear in collaboration with Modo, a contemporary lifestyle brand.
   The eyewear range features both sunwear and optical collections. With a mix of seriousness and fun, DeGeneres’s personality and vision is showcased through the variation of designed lenses in a mix of colours and shapes.
   With a passion for interior design, architecture and fashion, DeGeneres brings her unique vision to this beautifully designed, high-quality collection.
   â€˜I am excited to partner with Modo on my new collection of ED eyewear,’ said DeGeneres. ‘We have regular opticals and sunglasses in some amazing designs that will have you shouting, “I wear, you wear, we all wear ED eyewear!”‘
   Sunwear styles are available at US$155 at EDbyEllen.com as well as Eyefly.com, in 17 styles in stainless steel or acetate. The optical collection will be available for purchase in September at additional retailers.
   â€˜We are thrilled about the launch of ED Ellen DeGeneres eyewear on EDbyEllen.com,’ said Alessandro Lanaro, CEO of Modo. ‘Modo appreciates this partnership with Ellen and the ED team, and we look forward to this collaboration.’—Bhavana Bhim

July 11, 2016

Lane Bryant announces collaboration with Prabal Gurung, launching March 2017

Bhavana Bhim/15.49


Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Above: A design from Prabal Gurung’s spring 2016 collection. This is the sort of easy design that Lane Bryant fans might expect in the New Year.

Lane Bryant, the iconic label catering for sizes 14–28, has announced the exciting new collaboration with the celebrated American ready-to-wear designer Prabal Gurung. Gurung will be creating a limited-edition line of women’s fashion with his signature style exclusively catering for the 14–28 customer.
   Linda Heasley, CEO of Label Bryant, noted in a release, ‘Prabal is a master at mixing materials, fabrics and textures—he pulls it off in such a way that each piece becomes its own artistic statement. His ingenuity at mixing sporty ease with unabashed glamour has made his label a huge success. We are delighted to welcome him to Lane Bryant and offer his innovative fashions, spirit and unique styles to the Lane Bryant customer.’
   Gurung grew up in Nepal, and worked with Indian designers before moving to New York, interning for Donna Karan while studying at Parsons School of Design. His diverse background and eye for modern luxury and glamour is possibly why he is appealing to a range of clients around the world. Gurung has dressed a range of celebrities and dignitaries such as Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Priyanka Chopra. He brings a modern and unique vision to the collaboration.
   Gurung will be the fifth designer collaborating with Lane Bryant joining the successful Christian Siriano, Lela Rose, Sophie Theallet and Isabel Toledo collections. Gurung’s brand recognizes the importance of domestic production, particularly in respect to the quality of the finished product, and he aims to bring this awareness to an international audience.
   Gurung shared, ‘Designing clothes for the modern woman, one who is fashionable and unafraid of how she feels about herself, has always been my source for inspiration. I truly believe that confidence is the key and I continually strive to create clothing that allows women to look and feel their absolute best. I am thrilled to be working with Lane Bryant on this collaboration and look forward to dressing this bold and fashionable customer.’
   Lane Bryant will document the design process for the first time, making it available to a web-based audience on Lane Bryant social media sites.
   The collection is set to hit stores March 2017, and will be sold under the Prabal Gurung Exclusively for Lane Bryant label.—Bhavana Bhim

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