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In brief: Deadly Ponies Man’s 2017 latest; Vivienne Westwood previews Berlin festival; Patricia Barker is new RNZB artistic director


NEWS  by Lucire staff/June 13, 2017/21.01




Andrei; modelled by Henry Humphreys, hair by Lauren Gunn/Colleen, make-up by Lochie Stonehouse/MAC Cosmetics

Deadly Ponies Man has launched its latest collection for 2017, inspired by the ocean, using Ink bovine leather and shearling, and brass highlights. It’s meant to convey the idea of a ‘moody seascape’ and an ‘intrepid voyager’, which the promotional images suggest. That’s interpreted with classic items such as the Phantom duffle (now a weekender with zips going right down the side) and a range of travel accessories; and if the seascape idea isn’t evident enough, a notebook inside Deadly Ponies Man’s compendium has pastel blue and white hues resembling water washing up on beaches.




   Bread & Butter by Zalando previewed its second festival of style and culture in Berlin, with the theme of Bold. Jefferson Hack moderated the evening, with Dame Vivienne Westwood the VIP of the evening. Others who spoke included Zalando brand marketing VP Carsten Hendrich; and a panel featuring Aitor Throup, Adwoa Aboah, Erika Bowes, Fergus Purcell and MikeQ. A light show, an interactive mirror installation, and a real-time face-projection mapping photo booth followed, with a live performance by Abra and DJs Zora Jones, Bambii and Why Be concluding the night. Other guests included Marie Nasemann and Peaches. The main event takes place September 1 to 3 at Arena Berlin, with more updates via Bread & Butter’s Instagram and Facebook.
   Patricia Barker is the new artistic director of the Royal New Zealand Ballet, and takes up her post this month, succeeding Francesco Ventriglia. Barker is a former prima ballerina and, most recently, artistic director of Grand Rapids Ballet in Michigan. Ventriglia has programmed the RNZB’s 2018 national tours and Barker will realize these. Ventriglia is the guest choreographer for the company’s major commission, Romeo and Juliet, for which rehearsals begin now—the company says this will ensure a smooth transition with the outgoing and incoming directors working side by side for two months. RNZB board chair Steven Fyfe noted, ‘From a large number of excellent applications from New Zealand and all over the world, the board was greatly impressed by Patricia’s vision for all aspects of the RNZB’s activities, together with her experience as an artistic leader. Her knowledge of both contemporary and classical repertoire, as a dancer, coach and director also makes her an outstanding fit for the RNZB.’
   Barker is the RNZB’s 12th artistic director and the second woman to hold the position (after Una Kai in 1973–5).










Isa Foltin; Alexander Körner

Stella by Tory & KO.’s new boutique: home fragrances, cruelty-free cosmetics, and contemporary jewellery


NEWS  by Jack Yan/June 7, 2017/23.06




Above: Tory & KO. will offer jewellery, cosmetics and home fragrances at its new store, opening Friday.

Jewellers Tory & KO. have announced a new luxury boutique on the ground level of the Old Bank Arcade in Wellington, New Zealand, and are introducing two bespoke home fragrances, as well as a range of mineral-based, cruelty-free, Canadian-made cosmetics, a hand cream, and candles to be sold at the new premises.
   The new store, focusing on jewellery, cosmetics and giftware, will have Stella branding and complements the existing store, which remains on the mezzanine floor of the Old Bank Arcade. It opens on Friday, June 9.
   Co-founder Victoria Taylor notes that the Stella by Tory & KO. range has been part of the company for some time. Stella is the company’s contemporary line, with many of its designs having a celestial theme. The jewellery uses gold, silver, champagne and galaxy diamonds, and deep blue midnight sapphires. ‘It’s precious jewellery, and nothing synthetic has been used,’ she adds.
   It grew from the main range and attracted such widespread support from the company’s clients that Taylor and co-founder Kirstin O’Brien felt it was time to launch its own concept space.
   ‘We wanted to create a luxurious experience for our customers, where they can enjoy the excitement of our ever-growing Stella by Tory & KO. brand and enjoy the additional sparkle provided by our new cosmetics range and bespoke, in-house created candle and home fragrances,’ says O’Brien.
   Stella is named for O’Brien’s daughter.
   The upstairs atelier continues to offer bespoke and one-off pieces, says Taylor.
   Tory & KO. can count the Duchess of Cambridge among its wearers, along with Amber Valletta, Robin Tunney, Evangeline Lilly, and numerous other celebrities. It also received a commission from the Governor-General of New Zealand on the occasion of HM Queen Elizabeth II’s 90th birthday.
   The new store is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Monday through Thursday, and till 7 p.m. on Friday. On Saturday, the opening hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sundays and public holidays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.—Jack Yan, Publisher




News in brief: Redken appoints Mana Dave artistic director; PangeaBed’s mattress focuses on ‘sleep fitness’


NEWS  by Lola Cristall/May 31, 2017/0.30

Mana Dave of Auckland, New Zealand salons Blaze and Pony Professional, is now Redken’s artistic director for New Zealand.
   Dave’s role will see him direct the growth of Redken’s New Zealand team, shape the salon creative programme, and offer creative direction for New Zealand Fashion Week shows and seasonal fashion trends.
   He already facilitates classes at Redken Fifth Avenue in New York, and has worked alongside colourist Tracy Cunningham and Redken artistic education director Sam Villa.
   ‘Within New Zealand I have the vision for our team to be seen by the industry as the lead team for high-impact education and fashion-forward hair trends,’ he said. ‘Our artistic team is working with some of New Zealand’s premier fashion partners like Stolen Girlfriends’ Club, Zambesi, Knüfermann and Huffer on a variety of projects and ultimately I want to see more of them on the international stage showcasing their amazing work.’

PangeaBed is all about quality, creativity and luxury. Bobby Shamsian, president, and co-founder Martin Regueiro, seek to provide customers with stable and highly well constructed pieces intended to deliver both restful nights and elegance to a room. The copper-infused 100 per cent pure Talalay Latex offers a comfortable sleep, directly adapting to the body. Each layered material aims to target a certain element, increasing a peaceful state of mind while decreasing considerable strain and tension brought about from stress. The Latex creates a cooling effect with an antibacterial factor; the cool gel dramatically decreases heat, reducing the tossing and turning throughout the night, the quilted cover is luxuriously lavish for a cozy and snug sleep. The overall concept intends to create a night of ease, relaxation and absolute tranquillity.
   Presented in an elongated box, the mattress easily unravels and inflates to the proper size. The brand stands by its motto, ‘The world at rest.’—Lola Cristall, Paris Editor





Michael Beel scoops top honour at Industry New Zealand Hair Awards; Derek Elvy inducted into Hall of Fame


NEWS  by Sopheak Seng/May 29, 2017/23.54




Guy Coombes

Talented hairstylist and regular Lucire contributor Michael Beel of Buoy Hairdressing has taken out the top prize at this year’s Industry New Zealand Hair Awards in Auckland.
   His collection is a major departure from his usual work, which sees him focus on big volume and luxury hair. This collection recalled that glamour but in a more ’80s grunge vibe, with short choppy bobs and chic mullets. This was pieced together with bold colouring in chunky panels to create texture and visual interest.
   As part of the prize for winning New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year, Beel has also won a trip sponsored by Wella to work backstage at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York.
   While the competition was tough this year with many stand-out and strong collections from all over the country, Beel’s collection stood out for his artistry and direction, in being able to predict and read the Zeitgeist of fashion hair trends.
   Beel was not the only winner of the night from the Buoy salon team. Derek Elvy, who founded the acclaimed salon was inducted into the Hall of Fame for his long, outstanding career in hairdressing.
   Creator of the industry awards, Sara Allsop, said that Elvy being this year’s choice was an easy one.
   ‘His photographic work was ground-breaking in the ’90s. He paved the way and set the standard in production and creativity which showed New Zealand hairdressers what could be achieved when you collaborated with other creatives. At the time no one else was doing anything close to what he produced.’
   In the 21st century, Elvy continued to be awarded for his creative photographic collections.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor



Photographed by Guy Coombes
Hair by Michael Beel
Colour by Chinney Yeap
Styled by Sopheak Seng
Make-up by Hil Cook
Models from Kirsty Bunny Management and street cast

AmFAR Gala at Festival de Cannes day nine: Rita Ora, Iris Mittenaere, Jasmine Tookes, Bella Hadid at charity do, raising €20 million


NEWS  by Lucire staff/May 26, 2017/20.23




Gareth Cattermole; Anthony Ghnassia; Daniele Venturelli

The AmFAR Gala is traditionally the biggest do during the Festival de Cannes, and this year was no exception.
   The events had kicked off on Wednesday with a party for Persol, the Torino-founded eyewear brand, which celebrated its centenary. In partnership with AmFAR, the event took place on a yacht berthed in Port Pierre Canto, and was attended by Will Smith, Adrien Brody, Toby Maguire, Bérénice Béjo, Jasmine Tookes and Eva Longoria, with Dionne Warwick kicking off the celebrations.
   But all eyes were on last night at the AmFAR Gala, with support from Moët Hennessy, Harry Winston, Bold Films, Persol, Renault, and Harvey Weinstein, held at the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Celebrities and VIPs included Will Smith (who livened up the evening by carrying out one of the auctions), Diana Ross, Dustin Hoffman, Leonardo DiCaprio, Nicole Kidman (in Chanel), Christoph Waltz, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jessica Chastain (in Prada), Tobey Maguire, Chris Tucker, Bella Hadid (in a very sheer Ralph & Russo), Diane Kruger (in Alexander McQueen), Eva Longoria (in Elie Saab), David Beckham, Harvey Weinstein, Coco Rocha, former Miss France Laury Thilleman, reigning Miss Universe Iris Mittenaere, Nicki Minaj (in Roberto Cavalli), Adrien Brody, Uma Thurman and her Levon Roan Thurman-Hawke, Irina Shayk, Doutzen Krœs, Olivier Rousteing, Lara Stone, Petra Němcová, Karolína Kurková, DNCE, Lindsay Lohan, Cindy Bruna, Kiwi Victoria’s Secret model Georgia Fowler, Sophie Taylor, Millie Mackintosh, Maria Borges, Valery Kaufman, Carine Roitfeld, Elsa Hosk, Hana Jiříčková, Hailey Baldwin, Jon Kortajarena, Paz Vega, de Grisogono boss Fawaz Gruosi, Jasmine Tookes, Praya Lundberg, Sonia Ben Ammar, Leo Bahadourian and Anne-Sophie Bahadourian, footballer Juan Arbelaez, incoming Hennessy master blender Renaud Fillioux de Gironde, Jean-François Michel, Tommie Pegues, Hani Farsi, Alex Dunnet, Sylvain Ercoli and Dali Ercoli, Costadis Spyropoulos and Elmina Spyropoulos, Nathalie Normand, Camille Charriere, Kanako Sakai and Kouka Webb. Rocha presented the auction lot from Moët Hennessy, featuring a unique lot (no. 84 of 250) of Hennessy 8, a blend of rare eaux-de-vie and a unique companion sculpture signed by artist Arik Lévy, who also attended. Hadid, meanwhile, served champagne on stage, and the AmFAR fashion show, which featured, inter alia, Kurkova, Shayk, Kaufman, Baldwin, Hadid, Hosk, Tookes and Jiříčková, curated by Roitfeld, earned over €3 million for the dresses. Other performers on the night included Ross, Ora, Minaj, and DNCE.
   A Timothy White photo of Elizabeth Taylor went for €80,000. One successful bidder paid €350,000 to play soccer with Beckham, and another paid the same amount for a five-day trek to visit HH the Dalai Lama. A 1958 Jaguar XK150 sold for €600,000, beating a Richard Hambleton-painted van that sold for €250,000. A week in the Maldives sold for over €700,000 (note: it was for 60 people), as did a huge JR sculpture of an Olympic diver. A week on board a Serenity yacht for 30 guests went for €450,000. A Haas Brothers sculpture went for €500,000. A collection of George Hurrell Hollywood portraits sold for €2 million. Some €20 million (down on previous years’ dos) was raised at this year’s gala, the funds going to Aids research.































































Gareth Cattermole; courtesy de Grisogono; Anthony Ghnassia; Cyrille George Jerusalmi; Daniele Venturelli; Tristan Fewings; Pascal le Segretain

Persol centenary









Antony Jones; Jacopo Raule

Three by Ekman: the Royal New Zealand Ballet shows its witty, ingenious side


NEWS  by Jack Yan/May 20, 2017/12.01



Stephen A’Court

Swedish-born choreographer–director Alexander Ekman, it transpires, was the first person Francesco Ventriglia called when he was first appointed artistic director of the Royal New Zealand Ballet. Ekman, says Ventriglia, creates choreography that is ‘different, brave, intelligent, witty and fun,’ and he sees the work as being the equivalent of ‘good food’ for the dancers. The three ballets in Three by Ekman are certainly that: modern and relevant, yet somehow also timeless in their appeal. Tuplet, Episode 31 and Cacti keep audiences gripped, while taking us on a journey into unexplored territories.
   They aren’t fully unexplored, mind: regular RNZB attendees will remember Cacti from last year’s trio of ballets in Speed of Light, but seeing it again this time was a renewed pleasure, and connecting it to two more Ekman ballets gives it an extra dimension. As the third ballet, Cacti was a fitting conclusion: when you’re in Ekman’s world, you almost want to stay in it in an attempt to understand the creativity that drives this talented and important modern choreographer. It’s a world that’s energizing, spontaneous, but cheekily self-aware.
   The first foray into that world is Tuplet, a clever 18-minute introduction where the dancers’ own breaths, voices, and the sounds of their bodies become the rhythm. Composer (and a fellow Swedish-born international talent) Mikael Karlsson’s music has a dose of Bart Howard’s ‘Fly Me to the Moon’ as performed by Victor Feldman helped set the mood. Video projections, which were also designed by Ekman, feature slowed-down black-and-white clips of jazz musicians, highlighting the improvised nature of the dance, performed by six dancers standing on white square mats. New Yorker and Parsons alum Nancy Haeyung Bae designed the costumes, which aided the movement well, and Amith Chandrashaker the lighting, which balanced the the dancers with the video screens above. The conclusion was clever and a taste of Ekman’s humour: he showed silent films of audiences applauding as the live one at the St James Theatre did the same while the curtain fell.
   A video introduction to Episode 31 followed, showing the RNZB’s dancers learning the ballet. It’s a tradition of Episode 31, where a short film is made in the city in which it is performed. The film shows that the dancers were not restricted to the studio, as they ventured out from the Theatre in flash-mob style to various Wellington landmarks such as the cable car and the Botanic Garden; Mayor Justin Lester is caught walking by as the company vigorously dances Episode 31 on the waterfront. (The video is below, though we recommend you don’t spoil the experience.) The dance is a celebration of youth, energy and pace, fitting given its origins as a piece created for Julliard (and first performed in 2011; the video there made use of New York City landmarks such as the Subway). Karlsson once again composed the music, with costumes by Julliard’s Luke Simcock, and lighting by Nicole Pearce. Simcock’s visually deconstructed black and white costumes happily mix genders (e.g. skirts and collared dresses with prints of jackets), as does the make-up on the dancers (mustachioed faces on pale white). The pacy performance itself is contrasted with one dancer who moved in slow motion across the front of the stage; the curtain rose and fell to show vignettes of the action going on behind, leaving you wondering: are we really seeing vignettes or are the dancers repositioning themselves intentionally in preparation for the next reveal? The lighting rig came down, flooring was lifted up and moved, and a second slow-motion dancer wandered with a sign reading ‘Beautiful’ in a stark, all-cap Helvetica (the design of this sign itself is an exercise in irony). As with other Ekman ballets, spoken words accompany the action, with poetry (and this is the programme’s list) by Christina Rossetti, William Allingham, Eleanor Farjeon, Robert Louis Stevenson, William Hughes Mearns and Edward Lear.
   A second video came after the interval, where Ekman is seen on a ferry to Somes Island in Wellington, contemplating choreography and its connection to its surroundings. Will I affect the island or will the island affect me? You can’t but help find Ekman’s quirky personality endearing and you form a connection with the choreographer—and understand that there is a method here, from a man who constantly looks for ways to push ballet forward.
   There’s less chaos in Cacti than in Episode 31. Here, spoken word also features, in an unsubtle dig at postmodernism and the pretentious reviews modern dance might get (one only hopes this article is not an example), with a recording written and voiced by Spenser Theberge. The New Zealand String Quartet accompanies the action here, with both composed and improvised music, at least for the first part of Cacti, before classical music (Haydn, Schubert, and Beethoven) takes over. The 16 dancers move their white tiles, shouting and clapping as they added to the rhythm, before bringing in cactus plants on-stage. Ekman himself designed the set and costumes; Tom Visser also worked on the set and designed the lighting. The second part, a duet between characters Aram and Riley, is another humorous Ekman take, where the audience can hear the streams of consciousness from the pair (played by Alexandre Ferreira and Laura Saxon Jones today). As noted in our review last year, Cacti breaks down the pretence and complexity of ballet into basic statements: the two characters are disengaged from any story and just want to get the dance done. The stuffed cat that is thrown on stage still surprises on a second viewing, and we note that it was a different colour this time.
   When Cacti was part of Speed of Light, we only got a dose of Ekman’s style. This time, we were immersed, and Three by Ekman feels more satisfying and complete. It’s one of the RNZB’s most enjoyable modern ballets, and it’s consistent throughout, not just in the expertise of the dancers, but in the tone and ingenuity of the three works.—Jack Yan, Publisher

Three by Ekman tours till June 15. For venue and booking information, visit www.rnzb.org.nz.

The Body Shop, Botanicals Fresh Care, Ultra Doux: L’Oréal advances natural beauty and environmental initiatives


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/May 9, 2017/23.32



Top: Shidong Yan, director of the Centre for Environmental Education and Communications of Ministry of Environmental Protection; Tom Szaky, TerraCycle founder and global CEO; Haoran Liu; Zhenzhen Lan, Vice President, L’Oréal (China). Above: The Body Shop British Rose Premium Selection (NZ$95·50), and the British Rose collection.

It’s nice that the Body Shop can also source from its home country of the UK, and the British Rose collection ensures that its origins—as well as one of botany’s most celebrated flowers—are in the name.
   The collection is made with organic, hand-picked and air-dried roses, used to create a youthful and fresh scent. These products are rich in vitamin C to give the skin a gentle, soft and silky effect. The British Rose collection includes the Instant Glow Body Essence (NZ$47·25), a body lotion with a lightweight and lasting formula that hydrates the skin over 24 hours, leaving it feeling smooth and soft. The British Rose shower gel (NZ$17·50) is perfumed with essences of hand-picked rose; the Petal Soft hand cream (NZ$9·95) is lightweight, won’t grease the skin, and is absorbed immediately. The British Rose Instant Glow body butter (NZ$38·95) is a velvet-soft moisturizer that is light to the touch but rich on moisture, providing 24-hour hydration; and the exfoliating gel body scrub (NZ$42), with real rose petals, helps reveal smoother, fresher skin. The Beauty Bag (NZ$39·50) includes the shower gel, body butter and hand cream (in 60 ml, 50 ml and 30 ml respectively), and the Premium Selection (NZ$95·50) has the shower gel and body butter but in larger quantities (250 ml and 200 ml respectively), the same hand cream, and a 250 ml bath foam.
   Parent company L’Oréal is getting into the natural beauty market with a second line specifically for hair, called Botanicals Fresh Care. Now available in New Zealand, the new hair care line sources from Egyptian geranium leaves, Cretian safflower, Bulgarian coriander seed oil, and French camelina flowers, from the most sustainable producers.
   Geranium essential oil is an antioxidant rich in fatty acid; safflower oil is rich in lipids; coriander seed oil has Omega 6 properties; and camelina oil is rich in Omega 6 and Omega 9.
   The Botanicals Fresh Care range is divided into four: Botanicals Geranium Colour Radiance for coloured hair, Botanicals Safflower Rich Nourishment for dry hair, Botanicals Coriander Revitalizing Strength for fragile hair and Botanicals Camelina Smooth Ritual for frizzy hair. The products are vegan, free of silicone, parabens, and colourants, retailing at NZ$17·99 each.
   Finally, Ultra Doux—which occidental readers might be more familiar with as a Garnier range—is a separate L’Oréal line in China, aimed at the mass market who wants natural hair care. The brand has teamed up with TerraCycle, a specialist in recycling hard-to-recycle consumer waste. At an event in Shanghai, L’Oréal China VP Zhenzhen Lan, Chinese government rep Shidong Yan, TerraCycle CEO Tom Szaky, and Ultra Doux spokesman Haoran Liu launched the partnership, which is claimed to be the first comprehensive solution for hair care packaging waste in China.
   Individuals or communities can sign up to a recycling programme, and collect the packaging, to be shipped free to charge to TerraCycle. The organizations expect that millions of pieces will be collected, so they do not wind up in landfills or incinerators. For every unit of waste collected, the programme will contribute 1元 to the individual’s charity of choice. All plastic waste collected through the programme will be made into desks and chairs and donated to a school in China.
   Ultra Doux has also opted for renewable, bio-derived plastics and sustainably sourced cardboard for its packaging, as well as more naturally derived ingredients.—Nathalia Archila and Lucire staff



Tailor Skincare launches Your Blend, an innovative, customized two-step moisturizing formula


NEWS  by Jack Yan/May 5, 2017/23.47




Jack Yan

Tailor Skincare, riding high from the award-winning Renew, launched its Your Blend line at Power Yoga Living Studio in Wellington on Friday.
   Founder Sara Quilter, wearing Wilson Trollope and, appropriately for a yoga studio, barefoot, welcomed Tailor staff, clients and supporters—including her parents—and told a confident and heartfelt story on why she created Your Blend.
   Your Blend, described as a ‘personalized multifunctional, morning and night moisturizer’, is a two-step formula, using two extracts as a customized solution for each wearer’s skin and lifestyle. A quick online consultation, which takes into account genetics, environmental factors and skin type generates a recommendation for the two extracts. Your Blend addresses both the skin type (extracts numbered 1–3) and skin concern (4–6), in attractive packaging designed in-house by their communications’ and marketing manager, Stacy Heyman.
   Tailor Skincare recommends adding Renew for best results.
   In a quick post-speech chat to Lucire, Quilter mentioned the inspiration hit her while holidaying in Bali, and she was driven by her belief that everyone should get the best skin care possible.
   The event saw Good Buzz kombucha, Peter Yealands wine, and Soul Organics super juices served to VIPs.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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