After the announcement that New Zealand label Starfish was closing down, which Lucire covered first last Friday, customers received a farewell message in their email today.
Starfish will have a closing down sale with up to 35 per cent off, at both its website and its flagship Wellington store on Willis Street.
The email indicates that the company will trade for a few more weeks while liquidators at Price Waterhouse Coopers collect claims from creditors.
‘While it is sad to say good-bye we’re proud of all we’ve achieved,’ reads the email, signed by founder Laurie Foon and her team. ‘Starfish has been an amazing platform to not only put all of our creative passion, but to also be part of our communities in Wellington, Christchurch and Auckland. We feel privileged to have been able to make a contribution to the NZ fashion scene as well as being able to voice our thoughts on social issues from motorways to pioneering ethical clothing.’
They thank customers ‘who have loyally followed us, loved our clothes and given us massive encouragement along the way. It’s been more than we could have dreamed of. We’ve loved meeting you and hope that Starfish has been more than just clothing to you.’
Starfish was founded in 1993 by sisters Laurie and Miriam Foon. It was Lucire’s first featured label in 1997, and remained in our pages regularly as one of our favourites. It was highlighted in Summer Rayne Oakes’s international guide to eco-fashion, Style, Naturally.
Above Starfish’s Laurie Foon, photographed in 2011.
Above From Starfish’s heyday: the summer 2010–11 collection, Free Radical.
The companies behind Starfish have appointed liquidators, according to public notices placed in metropolitan newspapers today.
Both Starfish Retail Ltd. and Starfish Wholesale Ltd. went into liquidation as of May 8, with creditors expected to make their claims with Price Waterhouse Coopers in Wellington, New Zealand by June 12.
Starfish has had a long history in Wellington, and is one of the labels most closely identified with the city. Founded by sisters Laurie and Miriam Foon, initially selling out of the boot of their car, the company soon became known for its commitment to corporate social responsibility and the environment. Laurie Foon was Lucire’s first feature interviewee in 1997, at a time when Starfish was behind a movement to stop the city motorway bypass. It was one of many social causes that the company stood behind in its 20-year history.
The companies that are in liquidation now were incorporated the year after, though the label itself started in 1993.
Starfish also launched a more premium label, Laurie Foon, in the 2000s.
Its fashion consistently ranked among this magazine’s picks for each season, and was a highlight of New Zealand Fashion Week for Lucire fashion editor Sopheak Seng.
Alongside Untouched World, Starfish was highlighted in Summer Rayne Oakes’s international guide to eco-fashion, Style, Naturally.
Throughout its history, Starfish remained passionate about the environment and stayed true to its ethos. On principle, it resisted offshore manufacturing when many of its rivals opted for cheap labour.
Starfish’s liquidation follows the closure of long-time label Ashley Fogel and another highly regarded Wellington brand, Alexandra Owen.
Boring Gets You Nowhere is the title of the autumn–winter 2013 collection from World; and no sentiment rings truer for the brand than this. It is by not being boring that this label continues to grow, but by experimentation with outlandish yet still highly commercial and wearable fashion. Others perilously traverse this fine tightrope but World somehow manages to succeed.
For its first full catwalk show in Wellington, World’s team brought out its A-game. The performance demonstrated true showmanship at its highest level: glitter, sequins, fur and possibly the kitchen sink were thrown into the mix. The result was a collection worthy of envy: clothing that runs the gamut of fine tailoring, couture dresses and to-die-for craftsmanship.
For women, the oversized tweedy suiting is perfect for either the office or as an alternative take on cocktail dressing: a long black velvet gown will allow you play femme fatale or damsel in distress, however you choose to dress it up. Ball gown-styled lace dresses and two-tone fur-collared coats stood out in the womenswear range. Bright winter florals and warm golden and dusky jacquards, appearing in peplum styled jackets and ’80s pagoda shoulder dresses, gave the collection a point of difference. The brand has a strong Wellington customer base: once you strip away the crazy styling, hair and make-up, most of the garments are workable in everyday life. The brand’s following and versatility were evident by the number of attendees wearing current and archival pieces from the World brand.
For men, designers Benny Castle, Francis Hooper and Denise L’Estrange-Corbet pulled out all the stops to make it a truly bright winter. Scarlet red, deep navy, rich chocolates, vivid violets and turquoise are fashioned into impeccably tailored suits, complemented by whimsical printed shirts and colourful accessories. Winter tweeds and checks are crafted into exquisite hunting coats with contrasting shawl collar lapels and blocked panel coats. A stand-out for me would be the scarlet red cord pants and navy and check suit jacket, or the couture line floral print suit (only a number of these were made).
The brand’s creative hair director, GHD ambassador Michael Beel, and make-up director Olivia Wild saw to it that there was plenty of glitter, gold dust, Swarovski crystals and everything in between, creating fantastical looks that helped to translate the clothing to another level. Clara Bow- and Mary Pickford-styled bobs and finger waves were the call of the day, done the traditional way of course, the bobs clipped and pinned together with a multitude of gold bobby pins. Volume was key with many of the models wearing cloud-like creations adorning their heads, sprinkled in gold-dust and glitter and studded with spikes. Speaking to the duo beforehand, the brief was ‘The Great Gatsby meets Downton Abbey on an acid trip’. Eyes were smoky and sultry, while lips were scarlet red and sprinkled with glitter and crystals. Talon-like nails were prominent thanks to the creative nail technician at Buoy, continuing the nail art trend that has appeared on many international runway shows.
The collection is available for purchase from World stores now.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor
Lucire has had a private preview of Mardle’s spring–summer 2013–14 collection, Bisou, Bisou. And to show that Mardle is the thinking woman’s choice for stylish staples, each of the outfits is named after a Kiss song.
Designer Shiana Weir has put the emphasis more on evolution, rather than revolution, given her feedback from her customers. She recognizes that unlike Europe and the US, New Zealand customers tend not to favour huge changes between seasons.
Characteristic of the collection is the X panel, either through using complementary fabrics on the garment. Similarly, Mardle has used a script X on a print, signalling the custom of signing kisses with an x.
The I Stole Your Love relaxed T blends Modal and polyester, and brings in a light, sheer look for spring–summer. We also liked her Nothing to Lose jacket, with removable shoulder pads that are held in place inside the garment with Velcro. The Shock Me mini-skirt has a distinctive black-and-white pattern, while the Crazy Crazy Nights dress has sequinned sleeves and a nice blush and gold Lurex finish. The Mardle Lizzie leather belt completes the outfits. Weir has also a colour palette that includes black-and-white, gold, and gun-metal grey.
The labels proudly bear the Mardle logo and ‘Made in New Zealand’, which will have plenty of appeal to its Kiwi customers. Mardle can be found online at www.mardle.co.nz, with its stockists (including Dunedin’s Salisbury Boutique and Havelock North’s Salsa) listed here.—Jack Yan, Publisher
In stores now are Nicki Minaj’s latest Viva Glam lipstick and Lipglass from MAC.
The new offerings are in pastel lavender pink, with the full selling price going toward helping men, women and children living with, or affected by, HIV and Aids.
Priced at NZ$40 for the Viva Glam Nicki 2 lipstick and NZ$38 for the Lipglass, they are strictly limited editions.
Rapper and songwriter Minaj, who was announced as MAC’s spokeswoman for its Viva Glam campaign in July 2011, had been putting her name to the company’s products since 2010. She succeeded Lady Gaga.
MAC says the Fund has raised over US$200 million for HIV–Aids through the sale of its Viva Glam lip products.
Having viewed the Zambesi winter collection late last year in amongst the craziness of New Zealand Fashion Week, I had forgotten what my favourite pieces were (as so happens when you view collections six months before they are due in store and in quick sucession). When the invitation to attend the Wellington store’s winter launch appeared, the chance to stroll down memory lane and rediscover my favourites, and find some new gems, was welcome.
Zambesi is one of those labels that is best appreciated up close. What appears to be plain shirting fabric is, in fact, a very fine mesh; or a print is turns out to be something else upon closer inspection. With the models rocking some looks from the collection, it was a joy to rediscover those well turned-out and brilliantly cut coats and jackets, tailored in fine wools and pieced together with wax-finish leathers. There were the beautiful brocades and jacquard prints featured on pants and dresses, the gorgeous knitwear, and one of my favourite standout prints of the season, the chequerboard print in butter yellow and ink navy.
Stand-outs from the small showing in store were: the lace and knit dress—a beautiful, tight, sleeved dress with almost lace crochet detailing with tiny sequin embellishments, the perfect day-to-night outfit; and the black sheer silk shift dress with bandage-like side detailing and fringe work. The movement when the model walked was exquisite and very on trend with the flapper-esque feel to it all.
From the menswear range, everything, from the military-style coats to the sharply tailored Slimane-like suiting, was very slick and super-stylish. The chequerboard pattern shirt is a must for winter, crafted in beautiful almost lace-like fabric. Also on the must-haves, one of the many coats that are in the collection: my favourite was the double-breasted wool coat with piece leather sleeves—cut with a surgeon’s scalpel this is a classic that will never date.
The hair for the show had a very cool vibe to it—a mix of dishevelled chic, a wet look mixed with dry rough-and-tumble—directed by Buoy creative director Michael Beel. It was the perfect touch to the collection.
Zambesi’s winter collection is in store now.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor