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April 4, 2014

Iranian-born Mahshid Mahdian wins Emerging Designers’ Award at ID Dunedin

Lucire staff/7.59


Chris Sullivan/Seen in Dunedin

Mahshid Mahdian, from Brera Academy, Milano, won the ID Dunedin Emerging Designers’ Award and its NZ$10,000 prize on Thursday night.
   Mahdian’s collection, Shadow, was inspired by shadows in Burano Island in Venezia, and features geometrical shapes and innovative technologies.
   The Tehrān-born designer was encouraged by Mittelmoda’s Stefano Sopelza to enter the awards.
   Judge and World creative director Francis Hooper said in a release, ‘While overall, the standard of finalists were amazing, the winners stood out because their unique character and personality as a designer came through in their garments.
   â€˜Mahshid captured a moment in a heartbeat 
 When you looked at her collection, you knew she had it just right. It delivered on that inexplicable X-factor.’
   Alanna Barca of RMIT won the CaffĂš l’AffarĂš second-place prize of NZ$4,000; Chin Hau Tay of RMIT won third place with the Dunedin International Airport prize of NZ$2,000.
   A special prize was awarded to Vaibhav Singh of NIFT, who wins an internship with Martin Grant in Paris.

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March 17, 2014

Designer L’Wren Scott, 49, found hanged in apartment—death treated as suicide

Lucire staff/18.03


Above Mick Jagger and L’Wren Scott pictured last November.

Fashion designer L’Wren Scott, 49, has been found dead in her Manhattan apartment, with her death being treated as suicide by New York police.
   Scott was found hanged by her assistant, whom she had texted earlier in the day to go to the apartment, at 10 a.m. EDT.
   No suicide note was found, according to police, whose investigations continue.
   Her company was in millions of pounds of debt. The firm, LS Fashion Ltd., had a loss of ÂŁ3·5 million, and it had been run at a loss for several years before. Some ÂŁ4·6 million was owed to creditors, with ÂŁ1 million due within a year. LS Fashion Ltd. had ÂŁ1·1 million of assets.
   Scott’s autumn–winter 2014–15 show at London Fashion Week had been cancelled. Late last year, Scott launched a line in collaboration with Banana Republic.
   She was born Luanna Bambrough in Utah. Having reached 6 ft in height by age 12, she learned to make her own clothes as she struggled to find anything that fitted her. She modelled in Paris before heading to Los Angeles to become a stylist and costume designer. Her label started in 2006.
   Her designs were a favourite of this publication, and US First Lady Michelle Obama, and celebrities such as Angelina Jolie, Amy Adams, PenĂ©lope Cruz and Christina Hendricks were among her fans.
   A spokesman for the British Fashion Council said, ‘We are deeply saddened at the news of L’Wren Scott’s tragic death.
   â€˜She was an iconic woman who inspired so many, and a designer whose contributions to the fashion industry were both extraordinary and unique.
   â€˜She will leave behind an exceptional legacy, however we are so incredibly proud to have had her in our midst.’
   She was the long-term girlfriend of the Rolling Stones’ Sir Mick Jagger. They had been together for nearly 13 years and Jagger had spoken about her fashion collections in the past.
   Jagger had arrived in Australia for the Rolling Stones’ tour there, which may be cancelled.
   Bianca Jagger, Sir Mick’s ex-wife, led tributes, saying, ‘Heartbroken to learn of the loss of the lovely and talented L’Wren Scott. My thoughts and prayers are with her family. May she rest in peace.’
   Supermodel Naomi Campbell wrote on WhoSay: ‘I am deeply shocked and devastated by the news. L’Wren was someone I knew since I was 17. We travelled the world together many times. L’Wren was someone I always loved. She was the epitome of elegance and femininity yet still had a girlish quality. I will miss her honesty and I will miss her friendship. My heart goes out to Mick and all who loved her and were loved by her. May she Rest in Peace.’
   Actress Nicole Kidman issued a statement, reading, ‘Nicole and L’Wren were close friends for 25 years. She is heartbroken and in shock right now, and unable to say anything.’

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February 27, 2014

Miranda Kerr, Jessica Alba among celebrities at H&M Studio’s Paris show at Grand Palais

Lucire staff/10.35


H&M

Hennes & Mauritz’s Paris shows are becoming a regular occurrence on the circuit. Last night’s H&M Studio autumn–winter 2014–15 catwalk show during fashion week, with guests including Miranda Kerr, Jessica Alba, Jourdan Dunn, Emmanuelle Alt, Troian Bellisario and Solange Knowles, showed designs that mixed masculine and feminine, including slip dresses, aviator jackets and men’s blazers. Fabrics included silk crĂšpe, silk satin, cashmere, velvet and faux fur. H&M Studio’s collection not only contrasted feminine and masculine, but luxury (thanks to sequins and embroidery) and simplicity (with slim cuts and clean designs).
   Held at the Grand Palais, there were some 600 guests present, while a global audience watched online at hm.com with host Mademoiselle Agnes and models Andreea Diaconu, Joan Smalls, Izabel Goulart and Saskia. HollySiz performed live at the catwalk show.
   H&M Studio’s collection is a limited edition, created by a dedicated team within the Swedish fashion giant.
   â€˜It’s so good to be at H&M Studio in Paris to see this limited-edition collection. H&M is such a wonderful brand—it’s affordable, wearable, and very fashion-forward,’ said Kerr.
   â€˜I love H&M—it’s so exciting to be here, so much fun. The way I dress I mix things together, and I love to shop at H&M, I always find something new when I’m there,’ said Alba.





H&M

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January 30, 2014

A sense of nostalgia from the Body Shop’s White Musk Smoky Rose scent

Anna Deans/1.40

The Body Shop is getting in for this Valentine’s Day with its new White Musk Smoky Rose scent which adds to its cruelty-free White Musk range. This sensual scent includes fused scents of bergamot, pink pepper, and blackcurrant.
   White Musk Smoky Rose is available as the pure eau de parfum and eau de toilette as well as many other cheaper options. There are the White Musk Smoky Rose body lotion, bath and shower gel and fragrance mist, suiting all budgets—prices start at NZ$25 for the gel and finish at NZ$56 for the eau de parfum.
   The White Musk Smoky Rose exudes youth and floral sweetness with a note of aqua. To us, it evokes a sense of a fresh summer breeze and a fresh teen romance, with school-day memories and associated nostalgia. Head down to the Body Shop and give the scent a test to see what memories it draws for you.—Anna Deans

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January 25, 2014

Christine Margossian forecasts spring minimalism and platinum locks for L’OrĂ©al Professionnel

Lucire staff/2.06




Eric Ouaknine

Above, from top Christine Margossian’s ‘Mutine’, ‘Re-belle’ and ‘It-side’ looks.

L’OrĂ©al Professionnel has shown its new hairstyles for spring–summer 2014, as conceived by its ambassador Christine Margossian. Margossian was named the Meilleure ouvrier de France (MOF) when she was 24 in the early 1990s, with her medal awarded to her by President Mitterand. The psychology-trained hairstylist has had a decades-long partnership with L’OrĂ©al Professionnel, and has been coming up with new trends each season.
   Her new “it” look for the season is named Touch of Pink, summarized with the keywords of optimism, freshness and natu­ral.
   Margossian forecasts a minimalist style, and says that platinum-blonde hair with pastel-pink touches are in. One can choose to have the hair down, letting it ‘fly with the wind,’ keeping it up using twists, or a headband.
   The styles are based around a layered bob, featuring very light blonde highlights using L’OrĂ©al Professionnel’s Lightening Paste Platinum. Splashlights will remain on trend for spring, with pink diluted hair chalk. They also employ the brand’s Volume Architect Tec-Ni Art, SOS Volumetry, Infinium and Crystal Gloss hair sprays.
   The first look, ‘Mutine’, features few pastel pink twists to show off one’s platinum locks.
   The second look, ‘Re-belle’, sees an extra-large chignon with plenty of volume, held up with a headband. Here is where Margossian sees pink pearls and the smoking jacket to complement the look.
   The third, ‘It-Side’, has fine twists on the side, and works for both day and night wear.

Credits
Hair by Christine Margossian for L’OrĂ©al Professionnel

Photographed by Eric Ouaknine
Make-up by Stéphane Dussart
Art-directed and styled by Laure Delvigo
Video by Miguel Cyrille
Special thanks to Max Chaoul Couture, and Lise & Serge
Graphic design by Yvan Babillon

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January 24, 2014

Lucire’s Instagram round-up, January 24

Lucire staff/11.13

Kicking off this week’s most interesting and stylish Instagrams is Australian blogger Sara Donaldson of Harper & Harley, photographed by Ana Suntay-Tañedo. Finding the ideal outfit for summer work and socializing is a toughie, especially with the longer days—so to solve this, Donaldson has chosen an ensemble of a Zimmermann dress, Windsor Smith sandles and a Givenchy bag, encapsulating the season’s look well.
   But it’s not summer everywhere. Kristina Bazan of Swiss blog Kayture headed to Paris to shoot a fine jewellery video for Love Gold, and she is snapped outside Chanel at the Place de la VendĂŽme. The look’s spot on, with the Chanel umbrella, but it’s the pairing of a black coat with stonewashed skinny jeans that’s particularly chic for the cool, zero-degree temperatures in the French capital. (You can see more of the Love Gold shoot on Bazan’s blog.)
   On the subject of black coats, our own Instagram shows the Royal New Zealand Ballet’s principal guest artist Gillian Murphy trying on a Tamsin Cooper coat, especially designed for her. Murphy liked the elegance and practicality of the coat and picked it over two others that Cooper had brought up. Cut at knee length, it’s ideal for this winter.
   The black-and-white trend is really emerging this week. Judged the most influential blogger of the year, Kenza Zouiten has shown off her outfit for the Elle-galan (the Swedish edition of Elle had a gala earlier this month). You can see Zouiten’s own photos in a larger format—she wears a stunning dress by Ida Sjöstedt with a clutch by Malene Birger, and pulls the look off immaculately.
   And coming back to summer, our own fashion editor Sopheak Seng successfully styles with black and white stripes for the races, as he dressed models for the Wellington Cup’s barrier announcement on Wednesday. Taken behind the scenes is one of his models, from Kirsty Bunny Management, wearing Deryn Schmidt, available at Kirkcaldie & Stains.
   While our own Anna Deans is away today, we thought we’d cheekily check in to her ’Gram to see her latest hairstyle, which she posted during the week. It’s inspired by Brigitte Bardot—and she means the youthful French icon rather than the right-wing activist. Australian model Miranda Kerr, meanwhile, has shown off her make-up by Lisa Storey and hair by David Keough, both of Los Angeles, with bright lips and the apples of her cheeks highlighted—skilfully. Both these images, and some of the others that are coming through from cosmetics’ companies, are indicative of a more purposeful make-up look in the Zeitgeist over the natural face.
   Doutzen Kroes, meanwhile, has gone on her Instagram to promote the Victoria’s Secret Sport line, which she also promoted in person last week in Florida. It’s a bit of fitspo this week to get you pumped for the weekend!

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January 10, 2014

H&M shows David Beckham line for kids, Olympic sportswear capsule collection

Lucire staff/22.31




Above H&M has new designs in both its Olympic-tested Sport range and the David Beckham bodywear line, extending into a kids’ range.

Hennes & Mauritz has shown extra collections for the winter, including an extension of David Beckham’s into childrenswear.
   The Beckham Bodywear collection for boys will launch in February, following the key trends of the main Beckham line—which this season means wide and thin stripes, that supposedly come from the footballer’s love of vintage sportswear.
   H&M continues its sporting theme with its latest Go Gold collection, which celebrates the retailer collaboration with the Swedish Winter Olympic team for Sochi 2014. The capsule collection from H&M Sport features both functional and casual designs, and H&M says selected pieces have been tested by members of the Olympic team.
   â€˜Functionality is a priority,’ says H&M. The collection has lightweight down and breathable running jackets, as well as accessories such as sneakers, backpacks and sunglasses.
   â€˜The athletes of the Swedish Olympic Team are really excited about the H&M outfits for Sochi 2014—both for their functionality and their style,’ says Swedish swimmer and Olympic medallist ThĂ©rĂšse Alshammar in a release. ‘It’s great to share the Olympic look with fans through the Go Gold collection at H&M Sport, and it was fun to contribute with our input during the design process.’
   Staying with sports, H&M Sport also releases a tennis collection inspired by Tomas Berdych’s clothing for the Australian Open. Berdych had design input into the range, which features stripes and colour blocking. The range hits stores on- and offline now.
   Finally, lighter shades are the order of the day at H&M Conscious, made from sustainable materials, and, this season, taking its inspiration from modern dance.
   The company will head back to the Paris catwalk on February 26 with its H&M Studio collection.







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January 8, 2014

YSL, ïŹrst of two bio-pics on Yves Saint Laurent, opens today amid controversy

Lucire staff/7.48



Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

Top Pierre Niney as Yves Saint Laurent and Guillaume Gallienne as Pierre Bergé in YSL. Above Pierre Niney as Yves Saint Laurent and Charlotte Le Bon as Victoire Doutreleau.

The first of two bio-pics on fashion design legend Yves Saint Laurent opens today in France.
   YSL, directed by Jalil Lespert, stars Pierre Niney, whose make-up is so convincing that Saint Laurent’s last surviving dog reportedly mistook him for his master. Saint Laurent’s former partner and business manager, Pierre BergĂ©, has also called Niney’s performance convincing.
   Women’s Wear Daily noted that Niney studied footage of Saint Laurent and took sewing and drawing classes to prepare for his role.
   BergĂ© has endorsed Lespert’s film, which covers the period between 1957 and 1976, and provided the producers with access to the Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent foundation archive.
   Even from the trailer, there is a sense of visual verisimilitude, and the film has already received acclaim from Paris Match and Elle.
   BergĂ© has said, ‘The film does not take sides, but tells the truth. All men have a dark and a light side. My life with Yves Saint Laurent was not a fairy tale, but I would not change anything.’
   However, critics of Lespert’s film claim that it glosses over Saint Laurent’s genius. Thomas Bidegain, scriptwriter for the rival bio-pic, told The Daily Telegraph that YSL was ‘simply recounted by BergĂ©, like Mozart recounted by Salieri.’
   One can see the origins of Bidegain’s claim. In a positive review in L’Express, Mathilde Laurelli notes that YSL recounts a ‘pygmalion du couturier,’ and that it could be more objective.
   However, she and other reviewers tended to praise the film for exploring Saint Laurent’s inner demons, and the clothes from the archive.
   The rival film, which also claims “official” status, has the blessing of François Pinault, the owner of the Yves Saint Laurent brand. Saint Laurent, to be released in May, is directed by Bertrand Bonello, and stars Gaspard Ulliel as the designer. LĂ©a Seydoux plays Loulou de la Falaise and JĂ©rĂ©mie Renier portrays BergĂ©.
   Yves Saint Laurent started at Dior in the mid-1950s and succeeded the designer on his death in 1957. He was drafted in 1960 to fight in the Algerian War of Independence. On his return, BergĂ©, an art dealer who had met Saint Laurent while he was in a military hospital, tried to have Saint Laurent reinstated at Dior, but the house refused. They successfully sued for breach of contract. They went on to start the Yves Saint Laurent label along with some of the Dior staff. Saint Laurent was appointed Chevalier de la LĂ©gion d’honneur in 1985. The following year, the company took control of its fragrance business and floated on the stock exchange. In December 2007, President Nicolas Sarkozy appointed Saint Laurent OfïŹcier of the LĂ©gion d’honneur. Saint Laurent died in 2008.


Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

Top Charlotte Le Bon plays Victoire, Dior’s muse, later at Saint Laurent. Above Yves Saint Laurent and Victoire Doutreleau in 1962.







Thibault Grabherr and Anouchka de Williencourt/SND

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