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Riccardo Tisci leaves Givenchy; autumn–winter 2017–18 prêt-à-porter format unknown


NEWS  by Lucire staff/February 2, 2017/6.31


Max von Gumppenberg and Patrick Biener

Above: From Givenchy’s spring–summer 2017 haute couture collection, which, along with its menswear shown in January, was Riccardo Tisci’s last for the brand.

Women’s Wear Daily has broken the news that Riccardo Tisci has left Givenchy.
   Tisci’s last collections for the brand were his menswear and haute couture ones, shown in Paris in January. He departed at the end of the month amicably, according to the trade newspaper.
   His final designs for Givenchy will be red-carpet ones for the Grammy Awards and the Oscars.
   WWD speculates that Tisci could be heading to Versace.
   As a result of his departure, Givenchy will not have a runway show at Paris Fashion Week, and the autumn–winter 2017–18 collection will be designed by the studio.
   No successor has been named.
   Bernard Arnault, CEO of Givenchy parent company LVMH, stated, ‘The chapter Riccardo Tisci has written with the house of Givenchy over the last 12 years represents an incredible vision to sustain its continuous success, and I would like to warmly thank him for his core contribution to the house’s development.’
   Tisci said, ‘I want to thank the LVMH group and M. Bernard Arnault for giving me the platform to express my creativity over the years. I now wish to focus on my personal interests and passions.’

Filed under: fashion, Lucire, Paris

Documentary series coinciding with Christian Dior’s 70th anniversary starting February 9 on More4


NEWS  by Lucire staff/February 1, 2017/21.50



Top: Maria Grazia Chiuri takes a bow after her first collection. Above: From the archives, Christian Dior himself measuring a model.

With Christian Dior celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, with a feature appearing in an upcoming Lucire and an exhibition at the NGV, it’s the perfect time to take a look back at one of France’s (and fashion’s) most storied names.
   More4 will broadcast a two-part series in the lead-up to London Fashion Week, called Inside Dior, an observational documentary airing on Thursday, February 9 at 9 p.m., and the following week on February 16 at 9 p.m.
   From a house that began with one head designer, and his pioneering New Look, to a billion-dollar brand, the series examines Dior’s past and present.
   The first episode begins with a star-studded party at Christian Dior’s restored summer mansion, La Colle Noire, outside Grasse in the south of France, hosted by Charlize Theron. The Dior cruise 2017 show at Blenheim Palace and a haute couture show form the core of the episode, with behind-the-scenes footage of Dior staff getting ready for the shows, and clients who are entertained at opulent, formal dinners in Paris. It also deals with the company’s search for a new creative director to replace Raf Simons.
   The second episode follows Dior’s first female creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, preparing for her first collection at Paris Fashion Week (noted in Lucire issue 36). It also looks at Christian Dior’s beauty business, examining François Demachy, the company’s nose, on creating a Dior perfume, and Peter Philips, its make-up director, on creating a catwalk look. The episode ends as celebrities Kate Moss, Rihanna, and Natalie Portman arrive along with the world’s press at Chiuri’s first Dior spring 2017 catwalk show.


Above: Bella Hadid and other models walk at the conclusion of the Dior cruise 2017 show.

H&M Studio teases spring–summer 2017 women’s and men’s ahead of Paris Fashion Week début


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 27, 2017/5.58

As in previous years (click here for 2014, and here for 2016), H&M Studio will show a collection during the autumn–winter prêt-à-porter shows at Paris Fashion Week, but this time, it’ll be for spring–summer 2017—and it’ll go on sale the next day.
   Hennes & Mauritz has teased the men’s and women’s collections ahead of their public début on March 1.
   The collections show a muted colour palette of black and white, punctuated with items in a bright fuchsia–pink shade. H&M is looking forward to a relaxed spring, with sheer fabrics as well as leather. One women’s print features the word ‘Love’ in small white letters on black stripes; dresses are full and voluminous, and ruffles give a bohemian look. The men’s looks are androgynous, including headbands, sheer sleeves and hoods, long coats, thin collars, and, for the man who dares have colour in his life, the same pink tone is available. (See Lucire Men for a preview of the men’s designs.)
   The Swedish retailer will also launch H&M Studio Kids. Images of that collection go live on February 7.

Chanel shows off spring–summer 2017 haute couture, with Lily-Rose Depp as the bride


NEWS  by Nathalia Archila/January 25, 2017/0.37

On January 24, Chanel released its spring–summer 2017 haute couture collection. House ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Anna Mouglalis, Caroline de Maigret, Alma Jodorowsky, G-Dragon and Shin Hye Park, singer Cécile Cassel, English actresses Lucy Boynton and Ellie Bamber, Chinese model Liu Wen, as well as French actresses Diane Rouxel, Laura Smet, Olga Kurylenko, Sigrid Bouaziz, Anamaria Vartolomei, Céline Sallette, Anne Berest and Karidja Touré were all present at the Grand Palais.
   The collection’s look was all about a crazy femininity: structured shoulders, straight or tubular lines, defined and slightly raised waists. Alongside major hues of white, silver and grey, the palette moved from beige, pink, yellow, blue and pastel green through to black and navy.
   The show began with crisp tweed suits with clean couture lines, pleated and belted in toned-down but vibrant colours. Some of the suits had elegant tied bows around the neck in bold. From there, the show continued with a scene of silver silhouettes, adorned with feathers, sequins and glitter.
   The last segment of the show continued with slimmer dresses and skirts, many of which were polished by light pink and silver ostrich feathers on their linings. Karl Lagerfeld’s spring 2017 couture show grand finalé was Lily-Rose Depp, the face of Chanel No. 5, in a pink bridal gown with ruffled sleeves and skirt that left everyone in awe.—Nathalia Archila

Filed under: Lucire

In brief: Belstaff shows autumn–winter 2017–18; Chanel previews spring ’17 advertising


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 10, 2017/19.25




Belstaff

Belstaff has shown its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection in London, for both men and women. The Jolly Roger collection, inspired by World War II Royal Navy uniforms, even has vintage wax treatments on some designs to give them a worn look. Belstaff notes that the pea and duffle coats have been re-created, while the parka is based on a Belstaff design created for the British military in 1960. Creative Director Delphine Ninous said, ‘The formal naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks. This sense of temporary escapism is reflected in edgier elements such as naval tattoo designs and the Jolly Roger flag, giving a sense of rebellion and individuality.’ Tones are red, brown, blue and military green; base colours are charcoal grey, black and navy, with highlights in spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.



Belstaff

   Meanwhile, Chanel has previewed its advertising campaign for its spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter collection. The campaign itself has been overseen by Karl Lagerfeld, with contrast at its core. A pop Lolita metamorphoses into a cyberpunk; a tweed jacket has an electronic circuit board as a motif; an off-white silk and lace coat covers a black babydoll. There’s a startling modernity to the images, tying in to the Data Center Chanel catwalk show in Paris last October, which saw high-tech meet the 1990s.









Chanel

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne in Chanel bag campaign


NEWS  by Lucire staff/January 5, 2017/10.06

Kristen Stewart, Caroline de Maigret, Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne will appear in Chanel’s new campaign for its Gabrielle bag. The new advertisements break April 3.
   All four have links to Chanel, either as campaign faces over the years, or, in the case of de Maigret, having a friendship with Karl Lagerfeld.
   The Gabrielle bag was first shown at the house’s spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter catwalk show. The bag has a thermo-formed base, a light calfskin body, and a double chain in leather with golden and silver metal. The look was inspired by the shape of augmented reality glasses, and by the binocular cases seen at racecourses.
   In creating the Gabrielle, Lagerfeld pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s 1955 original handbag.

Chanel opens new boutique at national heritage site in le Marais


NEWS  by Cecilia Xu/December 7, 2016/21.34



Opened December 3, like a walk through history and Parisian elegance, the new Chanel boutique in the Hôtel Amelot de Bisseuil, also known as the Hôtel des Ambassadeurs de Hollande, is one of the most beautiful showcases of the prestigious brand yet.
   Careful to retain all historical detail, wear and time, the space encompasses two ephemeral boutiques. The first, an untouched 127 m² space, showcases the ready-to-wear collection and accessories within an interior of bare and exposed stone walls adorned by transparent glass, and a floor made of resin but has the likeness of Corten steel.
   The second boutique, at only 37 m², showcases Chanel shoes in the style of a great artists’ studio. With the most minimal setting of black clothes-rails and wooden tables peeping through, the space is an adoration of history, archæological preservation and the Hotel’s pride in history. The interiors are left exactly as is in this national heritage site, with no changes or adornment.—Cecilia Xu



Jessie J and Make Up For Ever team up for #Iamanartist; video shot by Rankin


NEWS  by Cecilia Xu/December 2, 2016/19.20

Make Up For Ever has announced an artistic collaboration with iconic superstar and artist Jessie J, to advocate and celebrate self-expression through make-up.
   â€˜Life is a stage’ is what Make Up For Ever believes in: that people are the artists of their own lives, and this was the driving force behind the #Iamanartist campaign with Jessie J.
   â€˜I enjoy revealing different parts of my personality in my look which makes Make Up For Ever such a great partner,’ said Jessie J. ‘The core of the brand is what I am about: creating characters to showcase who you are, exploring and expressing yourself in the way you want through make-up, colours and energy. I definitely feel that my make-up reflects how I feel whether you want to do just a lip or a full-blown smoky eye, your mood can be reflected in your make-up and this is why “Life is a stage”!’
   The collaboration is introduced with Jessie J covering Frankie Valli’s original song ‘Can’t Take My Eyes off You’ in a new video directed by Rankin. Sammy Mourabit has created her make-up in upcoming visuals and videos.
   The campaign’s purpose is to ignite the artistic spirit, inviting make-up enthusiasts to get creative, and express themselves throughout the year with the hashtag #Iamanartist, uniting them in a community of inspired individuals.
   Founded in 1984 by make-up artist Dany Sanz, Make Up Forever offers a wide collection of vivid colours, face and body foundations, and expert artisan formulas.—Cecilia Xu

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