Top Rembrandt is in a blue mood for winter. Above Wayward Heir takes on a indie musical inspiration for the season.

Rembrandt and Wayward Heir have launched their autumn–winter 2014 collections, available on- and offline.
   Rembrandt has a blue mood, with refined tailoring, including a blue dinner jacket to help men stand out this season. Designer Jonathon Hall says the blue ties in with the season’s key fashion colours of burgundy and earthy brown.
   The label says its other key pieces are the Cooper jacket and Lotus trousers, in blue Reda Italian merino, and the navy and red Caxton jacket. The emphasis is on warm, soft looks for the season, with a slimmer fit in the Lewis and Cornwall jackets, and the Astor trouser.
   Wayward Heir, meanwhile, has a musical inspiration from indie, garage, punk and contemporary music in its An Heirful collection.
   Its press kit included a cool electric guitar lapel pin from the range, and an LP with a Beatles-like logo—although playing the LP we were entertained to the sounds of Strauss waltzes for the afternoon.
   But it’s the fashion that speaks greater volumes and designer Suzanne Roff says there’s a Pete Doherty moodiness to her winter ’14 vision.
   There are vintage tweed checks in the Proto jacket and blue flannel for the peak-lapelled Milano-Punk skinny suit. Wayward Heir also has a slim-fit double-breasted jacket which it dubs Carnaby, and narrow is the order of the day with the Punk trouser and Garage jean. Prints feature images of cassettes and ghetto-blasters, and there’s under-collar guitar embroidery on jackets and suits.

Above Looks from Rembrandt’s autumn–winter 2014. Below Wayward Heir has a modern, youthful style.

H&M

Hennes & Mauritz’s Paris shows are becoming a regular occurrence on the circuit. Last night’s H&M Studio autumn–winter 2014–15 catwalk show during fashion week, with guests including Miranda Kerr, Jessica Alba, Jourdan Dunn, Emmanuelle Alt, Troian Bellisario and Solange Knowles, showed designs that mixed masculine and feminine, including slip dresses, aviator jackets and men’s blazers. Fabrics included silk crèpe, silk satin, cashmere, velvet and faux fur. H&M Studio’s collection not only contrasted feminine and masculine, but luxury (thanks to sequins and embroidery) and simplicity (with slim cuts and clean designs).
   Held at the Grand Palais, there were some 600 guests present, while a global audience watched online at hm.com with host Mademoiselle Agnes and models Andreea Diaconu, Joan Smalls, Izabel Goulart and Saskia. HollySiz performed live at the catwalk show.
   H&M Studio’s collection is a limited edition, created by a dedicated team within the Swedish fashion giant.
   ‘It’s so good to be at H&M Studio in Paris to see this limited-edition collection. H&M is such a wonderful brand—it’s affordable, wearable, and very fashion-forward,’ said Kerr.
   ‘I love H&M—it’s so exciting to be here, so much fun. The way I dress I mix things together, and I love to shop at H&M, I always find something new when I’m there,’ said Alba.

H&M

Betsey Johnson

From day seven of New York Fashion Week’s fall–winter 2014–15 collections are Nanette Lepore, Michael Kors, Kaufmanfranco, Lie Sang Bong, Bibhu Mohapatra, Betsey Johnson, Donna Karan, Zang Toi and Anna Sui.
   Day eight coverage, which begins on our live player at 11 a.m. EST, features Hernan Lander, Rachel Zoe, J. Mendel, and the FTL Moda & Art Hearts Fashion show presented by the Aids Healthcare Foundation, which will conclude the week.
   Doug Rimington and Sarah Beresford will cover London Fashion Week, and Paris editor Lola Saab will return home to cover her city. An end-of-week wrap-up from Lola Saab, features’ editor Maitland Waters, and photographer Stephen Ciuccoli will follow in Lucire.

Nanette Lepore

Michael Kors

Kaufmanfranco

Lie Sang Bong

Bibhu Mohapatra

Betsey Johnson

Donna Karan

Zang Toi

Anna Sui

Our day six coverage from New York Fashion Week’s fall 2014 collections features videos from Badgley Mischka, Tory Burch, Jenny Packham, Tommy Hilfiger, Libertine, Concept Korea, the Art Institute of New York, Skingraft and Naeem Khan.
   Highlights of day six included Pamella Roland, Diesel Black Gold, Libertine, Naeem Khan and Skingraft—as we’re filing this report later than usual due to additional events after the shows, we’ll include more of today’s proceedings in our wrap-up.
   You can catch day seven’s coverage via our live player. It’s set to be a huge day, commencing with Bibhu Mohapatra at 9 a.m. EST, followed by Michael Kors, Nanette Lepore, Liesang Bong, Kaufmanfranco, Betsey Johnson, Clover Canyon, Anna Sui, Zang Toi, and Michael America.

Badgley Mischka

Tory Burch

Jenny Packham

Tommy Hilfiger

Libertine

Concept Korea

The Art Institute of New York

Skingraft

Naeem Khan

We had an enjoyable day five at New York Fashion Week’s fall 2014 shows—a day which would have to be the most glamorous out of them all so far. Below are videos from Mathieu Mirano, Noon by Noor, Dennis Basso, Carolina Herrera, Milly by Michelle Smith, Brian Lichtenberg, Angel Sanchez, Alon Livné, Katya Leonovich, and Reem Acra. WGSN’s Sue Evans weighs in in the final video on fall trends.
   A day five highlight, for us, was Zac Posen. We’ve covered Posen since he began showing at New York Fashion Week, and his fall–winter 2014–15 vision demonstrates just why he is a master of red-carpet looks. Here is a designer who understands that the beauty is in the details and the cuts, not showering us with multiple inspirations; and the cocktail dresses and evening gowns, with tangerine, ruby and forest green brightening the catwalks. Donna Karan celebrated her 30th anniversary in style with glamorous gowns, too; but it was low cuts and high splits that marked out her sexy vision for fall.
   Reem Acra built the glamour quotient for Monday, too, with column dresses and embroidery pointing in a lighter direction. Mathieu Mirano blended the ideas of motorcycle gangs with the crown jewels, and it was his use of leather on bodices and jackets that we loved, especially since he pulled off an elegant style with his designs. Sequins, furs, fringes and pencil skirts—Mirano was spot-on with his fall collection.
   Noon by Noor’s Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa were inspired by crystals and minerals, expressed with geometric patterns, prints and embellishments, with a colour palette that included a pale blue–grey, purple and yellow. Angel Sanchez went with minimalism and transparency, in an edgy collection he called Dark Innocence. Dennis Basso had a rich collection with voluminous skirts, sequins and fur coats, and that richness extended to royal colours—blues, emeralds and purples among them. Milly by Michelle Smith had a ballet inspiration, using layers to good effect, along with furs, tulle and fringes.
   Katya Leonovich showed a collection that felt “21st century” in an almost retrofuturistic way. Asymmetry and geometry, along with metallic fabrics, were key themes, but executed with an eye on the 1960s and Edie Sedgwick. Alon Livné went back to art-déco and Art Nouveau, and showed both simple, beautifully cut gowns as well as fringes and beading, a nod to the 2014 trends.
   Carolina Herrera’s fall–winter 2014–15 collection used geometry and impactful graphics, along with beautiful silks and cashmere. We loved her gowns and sumptuous coats, and this had to be one of the most balanced collections with the right mix of restraint (thanks to the cuts and Herrera’s understanding of elegance) and embellishment (embroidery, pleating and prints).
   Day six features J. Crew (beginning at 9.30 a.m. EST), followed by Badgley Mischka, Libertine, Naeem Khan, Concept Korea and Pamella Roland at 6 p.m. You can catch these on our live player.

Mathieu Mirano

Noon by Noor

Dennis Basso

Carolina Herrera

Milly by Michelle Smith

Brian Lichtenberg

Angel Sanchez

Alon Livné

Katya Leonovich

Reem Acra

WGSN’s Sue Evans on fall trends

After day four at the New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2014–15 collections, we have videos from David Tlale, Katya Zol, Lela Rose, Custo Barcelona, Parkchoonmoo, Georgine, Vivienne Tam, DKNY and Meskita. Today (day five), we’ll follow Mathieu Mirano, Caroline Herrera, Noon by Noor, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Milly by Michelle Smith, Katya Leonovichii and Reem Acra, which you can catch on our live player beginning at 9 a.m. EST.
   This was the day of brighter colours and more upbeat moods, if days one through three were about black and grey. Then again, this was also the day of Custo Barcelona, whose shows—ever since we began covering them for the fall 1999 season—have been happy affairs, along with Betsey Johnson’s. In Custo’s case, it has been Custo Dalmau’s willingness to inject colour and vibrancy into each collection without proceedings becoming stale, and fall 2014 is no exception. There were more furs and layering returned in a big way, which points to greater volumes coming into play for the season.
   But Lela Rose and Meskita were happy to depart from black, too, with gold, magenta and silks for the former, and Alessandra Meskita went away from earthy tones for more royal blues, burgundies, pinks and icy whites. Katya Zol also made good use of icy shades, as well as some seemingly comfortable leather trousers, while her models had a single line of gold down the centre of their faces. Parkchoonmoo was all about boldness, enjoyable geometric prints and glitter—and did so in refined fashion. Prints were also the order of the day at Czar by Cesar Galindo. Georgine went for luxury, with furs and silks, along with a helping of prints; and South African-born David Tlale, too, delivered elegant, refined and flowing looks with silk and gold ornamentation lifting his designs further.
   Vivienne Tam, meanwhile, derived her digital print design from inspiration from cave murals in Dunhuang, China. The prints were exquisite and detailed, and Tam managed to bring elements of her Chinese culture into the collection in a way that has cross-cultural appeal.
   The colour accolade, however, falls not with Custo on day four, surprisingly, but Diane von Furstenberg, with reds and cobalt blues lifting black and gold geometric prints as the designer also celebrated the 40th anniversary of her wrap dress. Her collection, cheekily entitled Bohemian Wrapsody, is about ‘A glamorous vagabond, she is on the run with her dreams and color.’ And that’s definitely, in the words of our Anna Deans, a wrap.

David Tlale

Katya Zol

Lela Rose

Custo Barcelona

Parkchoonmoo

Georgine

Vivienne Tam

DKNY

Meskita

Czar by Cesar Galindo

At the Pavilion

Our day three videos from New York Fashion Week fall–winter 2014–15 are up, from Ruffian, Hervé Léger by Max Azria, Lacoste, Adeam, Mara Hoffman, Monique Lhuillier, Jill Stuart, Koonhor, Iván Aguilar, and the Asia Fashion Collection, while we also feature “studio stops” at Ruffian, Vivienne Tam (who shows tomorrow), and Bibhu Mohapatra.
   Ruffian was an enjoyable and upbeat way to kick off day three, with rich fabrics and florals, though keeping with the fall trend of blacks as the base colour. Hervé Léger by Max Azria similarly had a black base but contrasted with beading and trim, including ‘cage corsets’, an update of the label’s bandage dresses. Feathers and fur were used generously, along with shredded hems. Iván Aguilar gave day three an upbeat Brazilian vibe with his first collection in New York with something more sexy, revelling in volume with large collars and sleeves, and beige replaced black in a welcome way. Jill Stuart also played with volumes, with coats and maxi capes contrasting with mini-dresses—definitely a highlight of Saturday’s shows.
   Kati Stern of Venexiana gave lovely, glamorous gowns, with her usual sumptuous fabrics, forecasting a figure-hugging fall on the world’s red carpets. Monique Lhuillier also forecasted a narrower silhouette with some frills as distractions, though by the second half of her show the theme was wide, flowing gowns and with prints and lace. We loved it. If there was a collection that deserved the adjective beautiful on day three, then it was Mara Hoffman’s: Moroccan-inspired prints and exquisite beading, with jacquard and silk, and richly embellished maxi-dresses. Adeam’s effect was lighter: designer Hanako Maeda went for powdery shades and lighter greys for her frocks, in a collection inspired by Yasunari Kawabata’s 1935 love story Yukiguni (雪国, translated to Snow Country). Lacoste had a relaxed style and its blacks and dark blues were offset, too, by beiges and greys, in Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection, inspired by a visit to Chantaco. South Korean-born Son Jung Wan was also happy to go against black with dark blues and golds, also putting volume to good use.
   The Asia Fashion Collection incubator, supported by Vantan and Parco, brought together designers from the orient, with a selection by the Taiwan Textile Federation and Hong Kong Trade Development Council, and students from the Vantan Design Institute. There was everything from old-school glamour to boho chic, and gowns to microskirts, while music went from instrumental to French to highlight the international flavour of this catwalk show.
   Day four begins at 11 a.m. EST with Lela Rose, which you can catch on our live player. Also on the schedule for Sunday are David Tlale, Katya Zol, Custo Barcelona, Park Choo Moo, Vivienne Tam, Georgine, and Meskita.

Ruffian

Vivienne Tam

Bibhu Mohapatra

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Lacoste

Adeam

Mara Hoffman

Monique Lhuillier

Jill Stuart

Koonhor

Ivan Aguilar

Asia Fashion Collection

Our day two videos from New York Fashion Week’s autumn–winter 2014–15 collections feature Carmen Marc Valvo, Zimmermann, Jay Godfrey, Nautica, Rebecca Vallance, Trina Turk, Nicole Miller, Charlotte Ronson, Rebecca Minkoff, Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan, the Academy of Art University collections, and Lee Jean Youn.
   New York continued to be in a dark and black mood for winter, though there was delight in the details: Lee Jean Youn bringing together city sophisticate, romantic and casual dressing in his vision, Rebecca Minkoff with edgy tailoring and a chic, younger vibe, and Carmen Marc Valvo with his urban warriors, his fabrics suggesting armour.
   Nicky Zimmermann went for volume and wasn’t afraid to have eye-catching prints, and Hache kept things lively with animal prints and tartan. We loved Nautica for its snowboarding inspiration, while Bostonian label Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan (with her four beautiful daughters walking out with her for the bow) gave New York a classical, elegant vibe for day two. (Emerson is Fraser-Swan’s middle name, and she is related to Ralph Waldo Emerson.)
   Day three begins at 2 p.m. EST, and you can catch the first show (Ruffian) on our live player. Lacoste, Jill Stuart, Hervé Léger, Mara Hoffman and others will follow.

Carmen Marc Valvo

Zimmermann

Jay Godfrey

Nautica

Rebecca Vallance

Trina Turk

Nicole Miller

Charlotte Ronson

Rebecca Minkoff

Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swan

Academy of Art University

Lee Jean Youn