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September 30, 2014

H&M to launch Design Award winner Eddy Anemian’s capsule collection on October 23

Lucire staff/13.05

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Hennes & Mauritz has shown the capsule collection created by la Cambre fashion graduate and winner of the H&M Design Award, Eddy Anemian (left), ahead of its on-sale date of October 23.
   Anemian worked with the H&M design team and was impressed at how faithfully his work was translated into reality, including his ‘couture cutting and sewing techniques.’
   Anemian’s winning H&M Design Award collection was inspired by Tilda Swinton’s character in I Am Love and the neoclassical French painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. He cut floral upholstery fabric into strips, then reconstructed them.
   The H&M capsule collection takes the same idea, and can be seen in a blue floral jacket with strips spreading out from the neckline, then curve back in over the hips, while a yellow floral skirt is constructed from vertical strips. Other items highlighted by the label include a white skirt with ruffles replicating marble patterns, and a white jumpsuit with floral sleeves.
   Anemian hopes to start his own label in the future. His collection will be available on- and offline at selected stores.




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September 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York spring–summer 2015: more favourites from the first five days

Lucire staff/20.58

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Through Lucire’s history, there have been a select group of labels that get featured thanks to their consistency of design and their integrity. It’s no coincidence that they are among our favourites over days three through five at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York: BCBG Max Azria, Marissa Webb, Carmen Marc Valvo, Venexiana, Custo Barcelona, Vivienne Tam, Nanette Lepore, Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra. We were impressed with Taoray Wang and have included this designer for the first time in our pages. Lola Cristall leads our post-event coverage.
   Remember you can watch our live player on our home page for coverage from New York as it happens.

BCBG Max Azria


Marissa Webb

Carmen Marc Valvo



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Venexiana


Custo Barcelona


Vivienne Tam



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Nanette Lepore


Carolina Herrera



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Taoray Wang



Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Reem Acra



Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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September 6, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, spring–summer 2015, days 1 and 2: the global traveller advances

Sopheak Seng/20.06

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Lola Cristall and Maitland Waters will file their end-of-week report from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, but, in the meantime, fashion editor Sopheak Seng has spotted his favourites from the first two days of the spring–summer 2015 shows.

Nicole Miller


   Vibe: Summer holidays in Rio.
   Clothes: Fresh floral tropical prints in sharp cut-out dresses and pants, graphic black-and-white wave print on coats and jackets, as well as skirts. Flounces on hems of dresses and skirts recalled the South American vibe that Miller drew upon for her collection. What stood out was the opening outfit, the cross-front dress with the tight fit silhouette and its flounce hem: the playful nature carried the collection as well as the final pieces which had flowers and fruits embroidered in sequins.
   Look: Beachy waves, sun-kissed faces, holiday glamour.

Zimmermann

   Vibe: 1970s hippie tarot readers meets modern day beach glamour.
   Clothes: Soft, floaty and ethereal was the call of the day, with ruffles and flounces a-plenty at the Zimmermann show. The opening was a beautiful wisteria-coloured lace gown with tiered gathers and asymmetric neckline; the collection then moved to masculine and feminine juxtaposition playing throughout the collection with floaty dresses paired with military-style parkas, with cargo pockets or pinstripe vests and tailored suit jackets. Stand-outs were the swimsuits, particularly the black one-piece halter with giant bow detailing, the opening dress as well as the peachy coral-coloured pant suit with cascading asymmetric ruffle blouse.
   Look: Centre-parted gypsy folk hair with sleek ponytails and flushed coral cheeks.


Tome


   Vibe: Uptown girl meets Indian maharanis.
   Clothes: Glamorous clothes infused with a touch of India in the sari-style asymmetric crop tops and ties. The sleeveless trench-style coats with the duo colour lapels, gorgeous pleated skirts in shades of saffron, rose and black. The Rajastani men’s-style shirts with waist sashes, the Madame Grès-inspired pleated gowns that finished the show, and the floral embellished shell tops were all stand-outs.
   Look: Simple, elegant chic fish braids with orchids.

Tadashi Shoji


   Vibe: Elegance and beauty in Venezia.
   Clothes: Inspired by the famous golden palace in Venezia, the Ca’ d’Oro, and its reflections, there was a lightness and glow in this collection. The restrained beauty of the collection started from the first look of the white lace trench dress. The collection featured, heavily, lace, tulle, organza and lots and lots of pleats. All of this did not feel forced as it would have been in anyone else’s hands. The collection of caped gowns should make for some very stand-out red carpet moments come awards’ season. The beautiful collared shirts and shirt dresses crafted in lace and organza were stand-outs as well as the use of mesh piecing in some of the dresses felt fresh.
   Look: Elegant chignons and fresh-faced beauties.

Nicholas K


   Vibe: Urban nomadic warrior.
   Clothes: Nomadic draped sportswear, inspired by a road trip to Morocco. The brother–sister designer duo gave great sport luxe separates that are made for living and travelling in. Fatigue-style jackets and trousers were the order of the day as were draped and fringed skirts and dresses designed for the urban nomad. Standouts were the draped hooded jackets and knicker-boxers in silk as were the leather jackets. Accessorized with horsehair jewellery by Victoria Simes and lace-up heels by Kiyoon Baek, these collaborations added a sophisticated edge to the collection.
   Look: Sun-kissed skin and sleek nomadic hair.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

Street style in New York

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August 30, 2014

Triumph launches its Magic Wire bra and shapewear lines at Manhattan party

Lucire staff/23.15

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Neilson Barnard

German lingerie brand Triumph launched its Magic Wire brassière and shapewear lines at the House of Triumph at Old Bowery Station, Manhattan, New York, on Thursday, with celebrities Taryn Manning, Gina Gershon, Jill Hennessy, Debi Mazar, Katrina Bowden and AimÊe Garcia in attendance.
   Magic Wire is the first Triumph bra (available up to a G cup) with a flexible silicone wire, which the manufacturer says provides the support of an underwire without the discomfort. The use of silicone leads to a very light weight.
   The bust support system is within the bra’s padding, while a mesh stabilizer offers additional support that moves with the body.
   Magic Wire is available on both Triumph’s Body Make-up and Contouring Sensation bra ranges.
   The event featured champagne, live music by harpist Erin Hill, a contortion and dance performance, and a digital fireworks’ display. Guests were also treated to professional bra fittings with the Magic Wire bras.
   Magic Wire dĂŠbuts in the US during the first week of September 2014.

























Neilson Barnard

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August 28, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day three: Hailwood and Kate Sylvester up the standard

Sopheak Seng/15.11

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Lucire’s fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng and photographer Matthew Beveridge look at day three’s mixed bag of shows.

New Generation
   Vibe: Four up-and-coming designers showcasing what they have to offer the fashion world as the voices of the future.
   Clothes: Like a pick-and-mix bag of lollies, there were some dud and then some great pieces. Overall, the collections seemed forced and not polished enough. Construction of the garments left something to be desired, as there were twisted seams and puckering on most trousers and dresses, and a lack of cohesion in ideas, novelty and innovation. Stand-outs, which were few and far between, were Itzme, with their androgynous take on soft tailoring and sportswear. A bright colour palette of fuchsia, purple and orange showed great potential but was let down by shoddy construction and finishing. Nomsa Mabuto showed a good collection of predominately separates of coats, pants and shell tops in a colour palette of varying shades of green.


Trish Peng
   Vibe: Sportswear for ready-to-wear, gowns and party dresses.
   Clothes: Laser-cut bomber jackets and circle skirts with anoraks and ’80s ruffled off-the-shoulder tops and bright multi-coloured striped pieces. The collection then diverged into party dresses in bright pop colours. This was where the collection was let down: poor fabric and construction choices meant that under the glare of the lights, the gowns didn’t feel luxurious enough—and this was viewed between people’s heads in row B. Also the fits of the gowns on some of the models were not great, either. It is the little details that are often overlooked that add to the polish of a collection.
   Look: directed by L’OrĂŠal Professionnel New Zealand ambassador, Michael Beel, who created an origami-inspired criss-cross weave pattern in the models’ hair, then gathered into a low ponytail. Simple and elegant.

Designer Selection
   Vibe: In-season showcase to consumers. Fun, commercial fashion.
   Clothes: All in-season summer pieces from the 30-odd designers that were showing as part of New Zealand Fashion Week. Think bright, fun, commercial pieces that you could buy off the racks the moment you walked out of the show. The middle section of the show was presented by Woman’s Day, who showed a selective range of garments in red and white styled by Lulu Wilcox, featuring models in turbans and carrying red heart-shaped balloons, reminiscent of a Banksy street art piece. Closing the show was Jockey, who set hearts a-flutter with five All Black players, including Victor Vito, showcasing the spring–summer 2014–15 underwear looks for men, and model Nikki Phillips showing the women’s range.

Hailwood
   Vibe: Wearable streetwear with a glamorous edge. Rock concert chic.
   Clothes: Streetwear-oriented, the collection was denim-heavy but moved into Hailwood’s take on his draped velvet gowns that work for every body shape. The dĂŠvorĂŠ silks and velvets were great, as were the sequinned jackets and dresses that closed the show. Stand-outs, however, were his denim range and the oversized unicorn motif ponchos. Super-cool, relaxed dressing.
   Look: Dirty, gritty, but pretty. Messy and textural.

Kate Sylvester
   Vibe: Romantic, literary geek chic, celebrating nonchalant luxury and refined classics.
   Clothes: Vintage-inspired with references to menswear and long days in an English countryside, tucked up in your boyfriend’s clothes, his pyjama bottoms or boxers with his robes and shirts. Great masculine-inspired tailoring in regatta stripes and polka dots. Sheer dresses and blouses added a soft romantic air to the collection as did the long Isadora Duncan-style fringe scarves casually draped around the models’ necks. Loved the return of males on the Sylvester runway and stand-outs were the camel trench, open shirt, and striped trousers casually rolled up with brogues. All this romantic vision was helped along by a cascading shower of ripped pages from a book.
   Look: Just rolled out of bed, slightly textural hair with just flushed make-up.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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August 27, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day two: from softly and rosy to Zambesi’s superheroes

Sopheak Seng/16.05

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Fashion and beauty editor Sopheak Seng, and photographer Matthew Beveridge, cover day two of New Zealand Fashion Week, with Pardon My French, Lucy McIntosh, the NZ Weddings show, Pia, Andrea Moore and I AM, Juliette Hogan and Zambesi.

Pardon My French
   Vibe: ’Sixties beatniks with a touch of glamour.
   Clothes: Skinny leather pants spliced with rose gold zips and ponte, houndstooth composed of flying swallows, turtlenecks, oversized cocoon coats, draped skirts and dresses crafted in shades of beige, white, black and greys, all paired with ballet flats, a floppy beret and chunky hosiery.
   Look: Poker straight hair by Sara Allsop of Dharma for GHD and smoky kohl-rimmed eyes by Samantha Holley for MAC.

Lucy McIntosh
   Vibe: Grungy punk seen through a refined, modern eye.
   Clothes: Androgynous and structured coats and jackets in fine cashmere wools—full-length or blazer, there were different variations with some in the new shape of the double-breasted vest. Mini- and midi-length pleated skirts all worn underneath. Almost an ’80s throwback. The stand-out was the rose-print jacquard that featured on pants and jackets.
   Look: Messy dirty glamour hair with a touch of bronze on the cheeks and nude lips.

NZ Weddings show
   Vibe: Bridal and all things cute and white.
   Clothes: Gowns upon gowns of lace, tulle and sheer. Stand-outs were Hera Bridal with their Ăźber-cute children’s range of flower-girl dresses; and the Mint lace and tulle dress. The show signalled the death of the strapless gown as well as the princess style, as there were more streamline gowns on show, with cut-out detailing and a focus on the back. Crane Brothers and Barkers both showed great grooms’ attire with Barkers offering up a shorts option for the fashion-brave.
   Look: soft goddess cascading curls with romantic blushing bridal make-up.


Pia
   Vibe: Cruisy summer days at the pier.
   Clothes: Considering she is known for her graphic digital prints, there was not a lot of that on show as the focus was more on garments in solid colours of beige, white chambray, soft mints and blush pinks. The only prints that were featured were strawberries, watermelons and anchors, which all felt derivative. New shapes in tunics and fabrics provided interest as did the Adidas slides with white sport socks.
   Look: Beach–boho hair with a slick of white eyeshadow that looked zinc-like.

Andrea Moore and I AM
   Vibe: Surrealism meets ’70s Charlie’s Angels and a bit of Studio 54; I AM was athletic sport-luxe.
   Clothes: Great coats in a cacophony of colour from emerald, through to beet pink and cobalt blue. Dresses and jumpsuits featured heavily in the collection as did lace and faux fur. Stand-outs were the striped faux fur coat and fur-trimmed bags, and Moore’s new venture into eyewear and jewellery. A great deal of editing wouldn’t go amiss; however, it was good to see the brand expanding into a whole lifestyle idea.
   Look: ’Seventies Farrah Fawcett blow-outs, bouncy hair with bright fuchsia and burgundy lips.

Juliette Hogan
   Vibe: Juliette Hogan goes dark grunge.
   Clothes: Typical Juliette Hogan with a focus on all things feminine: pleated skirts and moody florals featured throughout the collection. However, it was the final pieces in the collection that really stood out: a floor-length sequinned maxi-skirt with casual T-shirt paired with white New Balance sneakers as well as the full floor-length gown in the same fabric. They gave us something new to the Hogan brand we have all come to know and love. Heavy on the black. A live band also gave something unique. Having to wait for over an hour for the start wore thin, but this was a show which lightened the mood of the weary guests.
   Look: Clean, fresh-faced beauties, chic New Yorker.

Zambesi
   Vibe: Futuristic superheroes, Flash Gordon song on repeat with strobes of blue and bright white lights and Zambesi decal on the runway.
   Clothes: No sequins or sheer in sight: the focus was on soft tailoring as well as structured suiting and casually cool clothes. Palette of black, cerulean blue, grey, khaki, olive, and touches of mauve and lilac. Stand-outs were the dressing gown-style coats in the softest of wools, the oversized knitwear, the cerulean blue boots, the tone-on-tone suits as well as the giant XXXV logo (commemorating Zambesi’s 35 years in business) blankets that were worn as capes, superhero-style, by the models.
   Look: Faux hawk fins that ran down the centre of the females, as well as the clip-in extensions for the male models, it was all about texture and grit. Fresh-faced.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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August 26, 2014

New Zealand Fashion Week autumn–winter 2015, day one: Nom D to Stolen Girlfriends’ Club

Sopheak Seng/14.13

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New Zealand Fashion Week’s autumn–winter 2015 shows, now shifted to August, kicked off strongly with Nom D. Fashion editor Sopheak Seng was there, with Matthew Beveridge in amongst the photographers.

Nom D
   Vibe: Rock concert glam. Standing-only “seating” made it feel like you were more at the concert rather than a fashion show. Along with the seven balaclava-wearing drummers, this was a great opening to New Zealand Fashion Week. Black earplugs also added to the chicness of it all.
   Clothes: Nom D favourites and signatures that have been reinterpreted in new cuts and fabrications, kilts, gauzy knitwear, great printed Ts, sleeveless vests, coats and pinafores. Loved the bombers, and floor-length kilts, all wearable by so many different age ranges, as evidenced in the crowd that attended. Also loved the cut-out felt helmet-like hats from Marmalade Hats—samurai warrior anyone?
   Look: Poker-straight hair that looked like flat dreadlocks, wrapped and twisted into ponytails or worn flat against the hair, seemingly moving to the beat of the drumming. Painted black and white ears.

Shen
   Vibe: Grown-up glamour with urban concrete jungle sport-luxe thrown in.
   Clothes: Camo prints in olive and khaki jacquards featured in bombers and sheath dresses, diaphanous draped and tucked sheer dresses, and soft tailoring. An east-meets-west influence with lots of kimono and bell sleeve action on the runway, also evident in the gold paisley foil pieces. Collection needed editing and proper styling but not bad for a first outing.
   Looks: Chic chignons and fresh-faced beauties.

Lela Jacobs
   Vibe: Haunting beauty in a post apocalyptic world. Hanging light bulbs illuminated the runway while models walked in a trance-like state down the runway. Opening with black and then into whites and creams and an almost mocha colour.
   Clothes: draped diaphanous silks and voiles paired back with open weave knits, chunky and fine layered again with draped harem-like pant. Loved the androgynous feel of the collectionm with pieces all easily translating to both men’s and women’s looks, the lamb’s wool cape and printed silk pieces and the mini glove necklaces. Truly Lela Jacobs at her best.
   Looks: sooty eye make-up paired with centre-parted hair, braided into an almost Hasidic style.

Underground
   Vibe: Cool kids hanging in old silos with great fashion and music playing. Exhibition-style layout with each silo showcasing a different designer.
   Clothes: Standouts were Meadowlark (beautiful jewellery, septum nose rings and signet rings and bracelets piled high on the arms); Jojo Ross (a beautiful white dress with a water feature inside that constantly changes—clever girl); Jimmy D (slogan-heavy ’90s collection which had catchphrases from Russian bride advertisements).

Salasai
   Vibe: Polished eccentric arty folks and the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat.
   Clothes: Great bombers, pinafores, dungarees, double-layer fit and flare dresses and great shirts. A muted colour palette of chocolate and deep burgundy kept the collection clean and sophisticated. The abstract prints will be sell-outs, also no menswear, made this a very strong collection for Kirsha Whitcher.
   Look: clean chignons and a flush of yellow eye shadow.

Stolen Girlfriends’ Club
   Vibe: Glam rock meets bogan motorheads at a party. The longest runway and stadium lighting from the Western Springs Speedway showed the garments in their best of the day.
   Clothes: A bit ’70s and a bit ’90s. Mustards, duck-egg blues, black and greys. Mixed in with some metallics and glitter. Hell for leather with nearly every second look featuring leather splicing, or a leather jacket. Not sure about the knitted bell-bottom trousers but loved the mustard turtlenecks on the guys, as well as the finalĂŠ looks of the glitter skater skirts and pants.
   Look: Grungy cool wet-look hair, slicked back off the face, and great sunglasses to combat the glare of the lighting.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

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August 12, 2014

H&M collaborates with Kate Mara and Johnny Wujek on New York stores’ windows

Lucire staff/15.12

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Hennes & Mauritz

Hennes & Mauritz, with its flagship Fifth Avenue store open in New York alongside other locations in the city, is collaborating with actress Kate Mara (Fantastic Four) and stylist Johnny Wujek to kick off Fashion Week there.
   Mara and Wujek will curate windows in nine H&M New York stores, and introduce their picks in select stores in the US, as well as online.
   On September 4, they will meet fashion students at the Fifth Avenue store for a panel discussion, as the first event of Fashion Week. It also marks the launch of the H&M Studio range for autumn–winter 2014–15.
   The pair are close friends and H&M says the windows will reflect their personalities: Mara with a chic, approachable sensibility, and Wujek with bold and quirky styles.
   Their inspiration has come from black-and-white photography of New York’s cityscape, and its light projections, bridges and building windows.
   â€˜It was a no-brainer for us to work together on this as we both have a true appreciation for accessible high fashion and our favorite city of New York,’ said Mara in a release.
   Wujek added, ‘Immediately I said yes to work on this incredibly creative project with H&M and Kate. H&M is a pioneer in the field of fashion and being asked to creative-direct their store windows for the opening of New York Fashion Week was my Mannequin dream come true—one of my favourite movies growing up. I can’t wait for people to walk by and see the beauty we make in the H&M windows.’




Hennes & Mauritz

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