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December 20, 2014

News round-up: Paolo Roversi’s Shang Xia images; Lamborghini’s Pirelli Edition; EstĂ©e Lauder buys Glamglow

Lucire staff/9.39

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Shang Xia, a Chinese lifestyle brand, has launched its new Le Chant du ThĂ© campaign images, photographed by Paolo Roversi. Jiang Qiong Er, the artistic director of Shang Xia, with the collaboration of the Fred & Farid agency in Shanghai, and Roversi himself, came up with the concept, playing on the brand’s Chinese roots. Jiang says, ‘More and more Chinese people, after spending so long dominated by western style, have a need to return to their own cultural heritage.’ By linking it to tea, at the core of Chinese civilization, the photographs feature tea leaves and even a pool of tea, alongside the Shang Xia Lan Yue leather and bamboo bag, the Sculpture overcoat in cashmere felt, and Bridge, a tea service crafted in bamboo.


   Italian supercar brand Lamborghini has announced a limited-edition Aventador LP700-4 Pirelli Edition, celebrating its collaboration with the tyre manufacturer. Pirelli has equipped Lamborghini cars since the beginning in 1963, and the Pirelli Edition, for which orders are being taken now, will be available for delivery in the northern summer. CoupĂ© and roadster models are available. The Pirelli Edition features a two-tone colour scheme (matt black detailing combined with a body in Giallo Spica, Rosso Mars, Bianco Isis, Nero Aldebaran, Grigio Liqueo or Grigio Ater, or gloss black for the upper parts of the car and the air intakes, with four matt finishes in Bianco Canopus, Nero Nemesis, Grigio Adamas or Grigio Titans for the remainder). There’s a smidge more information on the new model at Lucire Men.

   EstĂ©e Lauder will acquire Glamglow, a Hollywood skin care brand with a collection of high-end treatment masks, with the deal to close in January.
   The current line includes five mud-based facial skin mask products, each targeting a different skin care concern: Youthmud for anti-ageing, Supermud for problem skin, Thirstymud for hydration, Powermud for deep cleansing, and Brightmud for the under-eye area. A range of daily cleansers will appear in January.
   The four-year-old company, originally called Hollywood’s Boutique Secret, already retails in Sephora, Douglas, Neiman Marcus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdale’s and, from January, Nordstrom.







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December 11, 2014

Unbridled creativity at Raffles College of Design’s Perspective graduate show

Lucire staff/13.36

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The 2014 graduate show from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce, titled Perspective, took place in the big top of the iconic Luna Park in Sydney on December 9.
   The location could not have been more idyllic, and the weather, which has been very stormy of late, held, allowing all guests and designers to make their way to the show.
   It is almost impossible to make comment about all 30 graduates but having an eye for trend, I can say that there was a yearning felt through a sizeable portion of the work presented to embrace all things Mother Nature, in all her textures and colours: escapism, easier living, freedom and expressionism. There were 30 capsule collections consisting of six looks each.
   The show was opened by Queency Yustiawan, inspired by the work of Russian painter Kazimir Malevich. A dramatic black-and-white dress coat was the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance and reminded me of a bicolour paper plane. I was impressed with the tailoring of the piece.

Below Queency Yustiawan.


   Good tailoring has been spotted across much of the collections showed, which speaks volumes about the college they are graduating from. What I thought was a dying skill, cherished by very few nowadays, has hope.
   My total stand-out was the capsule by Ashleigh Kwong, which displayed pared-back elegance, fresh and interesting prints and shapes, and wearability. There was a little white trapeze dress with a blue print that I would happily wear any time.

Below The stand-out for Lucire’s Viviana Pannell was the capsule collection by Ashleigh Kwong.


   In the glamour department, Shannon Gambino was a shining star, and so was Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van, with her royal blue obsession. Her inspiration reminded me slightly of Toni Maticevski and my favourite piece was a little single-shoulder cocktail dress featuring delicate, layered ruffles. Also notable in this department was Lily Purkiss, who presented a capsule of delicate sheers covering shorter layers: utter purity and elegance. Hailing all the way from Italy, Daniela Monica Da Rui presented a capsule inspired by German expressionism, femmes fatales and film noir. She captured her brief very well as one of the pieces, an elegant black dress appliquĂ©d with sculptural black twigs, made me think of a fairy tale with the iconic Marlene Dietrich playing the lead. Christine Milanja, with her elegant and demurely sexy capsule, also deserves a mention.

Below Shannon Gambino.


Below A royal blue obsession from Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van.
Below Lily Purkiss.
Below Italian designer, Daniela Monica da Rui.
Below Christine Milanja.
   High on wearability were Molly Ya Jung Wu with her pared-down capsule exhibiting very interesting cuts. Rishella Lisha Liang presented a capsule of more wearable menswear and resort-like womenswear featuring appliquĂ©s.
   The best menswear, to my mind, was presented by Noal Yam Gurung. Xtra Senquan Ruan presented an interesting combination of interlocking shapes and draping.

Below Molly Ya Jung Wu.


Below Rishella Lisha Liang, featuring wearable menswear.
Below Noal Yam Gurung created the best menswear of the show.
Below Xtra Senquan Ruan.
   It was a beautiful show and I expect to see much more from these graduates. I just love to see unbridled creativity not yet contaminated by commercial realities and the utter need to push prices down in today’s world. Good things are worth paying a nice sum for and are treasured forever. Some of what I saw could be produced and placed into stores tomorrow.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend
December 6, 2014

Have jacket, will travel: Jonathon Hall gives his holiday menswear tips

Lucire staff/12.08

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New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.









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December 5, 2014

Spanish luxury becomes more visible: Tous, Carrera y Carrera get attention

Lucire staff/20.12

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Above Tous’s autumn–winter 2014–15 campaign and Carrera y Carrera’s Romance en el Loto collection emerge.

The Spanish labels are getting far more active, giving their better known French and Italian rivals a run for their money.
   While Zara’s been flying the Spanish flag for years in the budget sector, the much posher Tous has been promoting its wares Down Under, lately with a new store in Auckland in the Tower Building at 8 Customs Street West, next to the Customs Street House. The brand says it will open in Wellington and Christchurch, and give New Zealanders a taste of its luxury jewellery.
   By opening near Prada, Dior and Swarovski in the Tower Building, Tous believes the area will become a magnet for luxury brands for Auckland shoppers.
   Carrera y Carrera of Madrid, meanwhile, has shown its new Romance en el Loto (romance in the lotus) collection, which it calls a celebration of love.
   The new jewellery collection, with a delicate frog at its core, tells the story of founder Manuel Carrera, who, 50 years ago, spotted Marina—and, unbeknownst to him, he had caught her eye, too. It took some time before he mustered up the courage to introduce himself, and they have been inseparable since. The frog represents a ‘fun way’ of remembering that first meeting and the looks they gave one another. The lotus leaves are a tribute to Marina Carrera, symbolizing elegance, beauty and grace.
   The collection features rubies, diamonds and emeralds, in white and yellow gold.







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November 11, 2014

Kipling’s Always On, as are our spring–summer 2015 picks from Paris and New York

Lola Cristall/22.34

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When we think about the agile monkey symbol, Kipling automatically comes to mind. For fashionistas, it is a brand, but for the literary critics, the name is associated with the world-renowned British author Rudyard Kipling. Neither fashionista nor literary critic is wrong, considering more than two decades ago three designers in Belgium found their inspiration from the author’s The Jungle Book.
   The brand is known for their stylish bags, luggage and travel accessories. Post-fashion week, Kipling took over the remarkable Grand Central Terminal in New York to introduce their Always On collection. The different pieces on display were trendy and practical; music from Harley Viera Newton echoed throughout the site. Have a glance at their styles here:




   On the main part of the site, you’ll find Lucire’s picks for spring–summer 2015 from both the Paris and New York catwalks, and US west coast editor Elyse Glickman looks at Israeli footwear brand Naot, and a recent venture they did with Bellagio Shoes to help the residents of Beit T’Shuvah, a treatment centre that aims to get people back on their feet (pun intended).—Lola Cristall, Paris Editor

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November 7, 2014

Top international hairstylist Richard Kavanagh presents Rodney Wayne’s summer ’15 looks

Lucire staff/14.43

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Top and centre The ‘Sunrise and Shine’ look from Rodney Wayne: cut and colour from NZ$250. Prep hair with Redken Rootful 06, blow-dry with a large flat paddle brush, flat iron for definition, and finish with Redken Fashion Works 12 hairspray. Above The ‘Dusk-oh’ look: cut and colour from NZ$280. For naturally curly hair, apply a generous amount of a styling paste such as Redken’s Rough Paste 12 to shampooed and conditioned, towel-dried hair. Hang head upside-down and dry with a hot hairdryer and diffuser attachment. Use a shine serum such as Redken All Soft Argan-6 Oil for a little extra polish. Finish with Redken Control Addict 28 hairspray.

Rodney Wayne’s latest campaign, breaking this month, gets a jump on summer, with a bright 1970s pop-rock vibe mixed with an androgynous, rave-culture 1990s look, harking back to the international cultural influences of those decades.
   Entitled Do Summer, the campaign is proudly New Zealand in flavour despite its international inspirations, with Rodney Wayne’s global creative director Richard Kavanagh encouraging women to make a bolder statement this coming season with a new look. ‘The smart way to go is with fabulous hair that can take you from the pool to the party and places in between. Our latest looks are designed to help you make the most of the season in individual style,’ says Kavanagh.
   Kavanagh has driven the campaign, photographed by Steven Chee, directed by Lachlan McPherson, with Rodney Wayne’s Matt Butcher, Adrine Singh, Hannah McKenzie and Christie Beard assisting on hair.
   The five looks, ‘Sunrise and Shine’, ‘Dusk-oh’, ‘Honey Dipped’, ‘Twice the Nice’ and ‘Bourdin Patrol’, pay homage to the season, all using Redken products for preparation, finishing and protection.
   ‘Sunrise and Shine’ has been inspired by Annie Lennox and the rave culture of the early ’90s, with copper shades, using a halo technique of colouring, and shorter under-layers. ‘Dusk-oh’ was inspired by the 1970s’ soul sisters, enhancing curls Ă  la Donna Summer and Lorde. ‘Honey Dipped’ takes its inspiration from Michelle Pfeiffer’s Elvira Hancock character in Scarface, with a centre part and honey-dipped ends. ‘Twice the Nice’ sees braids at the core, whether they are herringbonem four-strand, French or classic. Finally, ‘Bourdin Patrol’ takes its name from photographer Guy Bourdin and the 1970s’ hyper-real styles of the models in his shoots.




Top ‘Honey Dipped': cut and colour from NZ$280. Create lived-in luxury with Redken Duo Shield 07 before blow-drying hair with a large round brush. Add a little Redken Powder Grip 03 at the roots for body and texture. Carry some Pillow Proof Two Day Extender to keep your style fresher longer. Centre The ‘Twice the Nice’ cut and colour starts at NZ$280. Redken Rough Paste 12 will help control hair while it’s being braided. Blow-dry with Redken Satinwear 02 for heat protection and light control. Bottom Getting the ‘Twice the Nice’ look: set hair on a small curling iron using a heat-active texturizer like Redken Fabricate 03 for heat protection and light hold. Once hair is set and cooled, brush it out and spray generously with Redken Forceful 23 strong hold hairspray for extra shine and hold.

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November 5, 2014

Heading eastward: glamorous events from Los Angeles to Paris

Lola Cristall/21.27

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Top Poolside at the Peninsula Beverly Hills. Centre Inside the Eileen Fischer cabana at the Organic Spa Magazine event. Above TV host Nancy O’Dell.

The Peninsula Beverly Hills is known for its sophistication, adding a European flair in a Californian setting. It was a perfect location for Organic Spa Magazine to host the launch of their 2014 Los Angeles Experience Wellness Media and Eco-Celebrity Event. Celebrities included John Salley, Katie Chonacas, Jennifer Taylor and their stunning October cover girl Nancy O’Dell. With natural holistic services offered in cabanas by the poolside on the rooftop, overlooking marvellous views, the event was based around the beauty and delicacy of naturally infused products.
   Eileen Fischer’s stylish, restrained fashion appeared alongside Nubian Heritage, founded by Richelieu Dennis and Nyema Tubman, who presented a slew of high-end natural skin care products. Others tapping in to their organic creativity included Ikove, Ayushi, Jurlique, the Organic Face, Susie Frazer, Two Bunch Palms, Organics Brasil, Plantlife, Shankara, Aura Cacia, Tsuiya, GaĂ«lle Organic, Malebranche, Nordic Naturals, Green Spa Network, Vana Retreats, Immunocologie, Ojai Valley Inn and Spa, Natracare, Kari Gran, Riviera Maya, Dahliana Skincare, Fifth Dimension Clothing, Golden Door and Shea Moisture. The brands had one special factor in common: they brought the mind, body and soul together in the midst of natural products.




Top John Salley. Centre Nancy O’Dell and her Organic Spa Magazine cover. Above Organic Spa Magazine publishers Rona Berg and Bev Maloney Fischback with Nancy O’Dell.

   Travelling cross-country, we arrive in New York where Alyson Dutch hosted her Valentine’s Day Gift Guide Event. The Artisan Group was in attendance to present everything from jewellery pieces to skin care products. Brainy Pac presented their conveniently designed hats, where separate compartments permit the wearer to store away important items, including their gadgets, while staying chic. Signature Soul Socks introduced their comfortable socks, with solid soles that can easily slide into a boot. Lulu DK’s jewellery-like metallic temporary tattoos, in gold or silver, illuminate. Grande Lash-MD is perfect for the woman interested in elongating her eyelashes, with a product made out of exclusively natural ingredients. Dollipop Cosmetics featured their radiant eye shadows consisting of a range of various shades from lusterless matte to shimmering gloss.
   In Paris, Deux A’s head designer and founder, Anna-Liza, presented her spring 2015 collection during an intimate gathering in Paris. The collection entitled Naga Botanicus added her personal take on floral creativity, with vibrant, vivid shades and slightly psychedelic features. Casual, basic knee-high skirts to hip-hugging dresses are accompanied by large floral headdresses.—Lola Cristall, Paris Editor







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September 30, 2014

H&M to launch Design Award winner Eddy Anemian’s capsule collection on October 23

Lucire staff/13.05

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Hennes & Mauritz has shown the capsule collection created by la Cambre fashion graduate and winner of the H&M Design Award, Eddy Anemian (left), ahead of its on-sale date of October 23.
   Anemian worked with the H&M design team and was impressed at how faithfully his work was translated into reality, including his ‘couture cutting and sewing techniques.’
   Anemian’s winning H&M Design Award collection was inspired by Tilda Swinton’s character in I Am Love and the neoclassical French painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. He cut floral upholstery fabric into strips, then reconstructed them.
   The H&M capsule collection takes the same idea, and can be seen in a blue floral jacket with strips spreading out from the neckline, then curve back in over the hips, while a yellow floral skirt is constructed from vertical strips. Other items highlighted by the label include a white skirt with ruffles replicating marble patterns, and a white jumpsuit with floral sleeves.
   Anemian hopes to start his own label in the future. His collection will be available on- and offline at selected stores.




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