Included in the round-up of style on Instagram this week is, first, Sydney-based blogging-babe from Harper & Harley, Sara Donaldson. Here she posts a selfie wearing a cute denim dress by Australia’s Lover the Label. Fellow Australian label, Friend of Mine reposted a shot of the super-stylish Big Brother 2013 housemate, Tully Smyth. Tully is wearing their Muscle Beach tank paired with jeans, chucks and a leather biker jacket. Fashion blogger, Yan Yan Chan is reposted by Shakuhachi wearing their Midsummer Nights bustier top with some little cream shorts and some wicked round sunnies: where can I get some?!
   Because I’m Addicted’s Geri Hirsch manages to feature twice this week! Firstly in a chic-ly simplistic selfie wearing ripped black skinnies, a plain white T and black pointy toe heels. Her funky black-and-white houndstooth mani secured her second spot. This mani-shot also shows her gorgeous ring collection which I am truly jealous of.
   Model-of-the-moment Liu Wen also features in a fabulous outfit incorporating Italian-based La Perla lingerie paired with a classic-cut black suit and strappy stilettos. New Mum Sienna Miller also features, looking radiant in a leopard Burberry dress paired with a fluffy cardi at Kelly Hoppen’s book launch in London. Last but not least: Russian writer Miroslava Duma looks cute as a button when attending Chanel’s Numéros Privés opening night party. And that’s a wrap for this week’s style highlights.—Anna Deans

B Type represents a new concept in jewellery design based on personal blood type. Conceived in Milano, the collection is made solely in Italy to the best creative and artisanal standards. ‘You are what you bleed’ is their headline, representing both the collection’s concept and the brand’s philosophies. These pendants sees your blood type as a code that represents you, used as an identification as well as a celebration of the self, on the basis that blood is an element which keeps us alive and connects us.
   B Type jewellery is purely a collection of silver pendants. The blood type code is engraved on these in modern text through old-style craftsmanship. The pieces are timeless, an excellent gift for a loved one being a meaningful and personal gift, suitable for the young and old and both women and men. The drop shape of the pendants creates a delicate look to the pieces as well as representing a drop of blood. B Type’s packaging is intentionally provocative, with the use of blood-bank-type plastic bags with the delicate jewel safely inside. The packaging and the jewels themselves aim to create awareness of one’s own blood type in case of emergency. They also elevate the importance of the free gift of giving blood.
   B Type’s designer, Arianna Callegari, a trained architect, intends to work on a collection incorporating alternative materials such as gold and diamonds. Callegari aims for all her pieces to be special and unique, like one’s blood type. The current collection, shown in Dubai on October 10, is now available.—Anna Deans

Through a sea of black-and-white and sheer chiffon came three stand-outs at the 2013 Massey graduate show, Launch. Sean Kelly’s desert-island-themed collection really stood out, as did the closing designers, Lucilla Gray and her crisp neoprene collection, and Soontariya Utto, with her refined, elegant gowns.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Kelly’s collection, inspired by an island, consisted of layered, tailored menswear in linen-looking khaki-greens and whites. This collection combines exceptional new ideas and design lines with impeccable tailoring. Quirky accessories also featured, such as a fishing-net backpack. Thick, brown leather hats, sandals and other leather items were specifically made for the collection to immaculate standards. Emphasizing impact and wearability through clever styling, Kelly has really hit the nail on the head here.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Gray’s collection created similar impact but for completely different reasons. The colour palette of fresh electric blue mixed with fluro-pink and the whitest white stood out from the dull colours of some other collections. Structured elements were innovatively moulded from neoprene to create out-of-this-world curved shapes where printed chiffon overlays bikini-like undergarments. This fresh collection really caught my eye for all the right reasons. We especially loved the curved, structural sleeve shapes and the tactile print in the white neoprene jacket. Lucille’s collection reminds me of a different take on Nicolas Ghesquière’s use of neoprene at Balenciaga and the Australian designers’ obsession. Perhaps this is the New Zealand response to the comeback of neoprene, which is no longer restricted to the un-shapely wetsuit.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   From the opening outfit of Utto’s collection, there was something special in the making. The precision cutting and the exceptional tailoring to the couture-like nature of her garments all spoke of a refined elegance, which can so often be lost in ready-to-wear clothes. For someone so young, her taste level far exceeds her years. The moulded hips of her ball gowns matched her jewellery, which was made by hand, bringing a tactile old-world feel. The collection was sewn by hand, bringing it to life. Although crafted all in black, it was still evident that a lot of attention to detail had gone into this collection, from the pin-tucking on the structure corsets and bodices, to the cut of detailing and ostrich feather plumage that appeared on collars and peplums. This was a collection made for the red carpet and was a true show-stopper.—Anna Deans and Sopheak Seng, Fashion Editor

Alix Malka

Model and Wag Irina Shayk, who dates Cristiano Ronaldo, appears in a shoot by Alix Malka for the latest issue of 7 Hollywood magazine.
   The ‘Fantasy’ issue for winter 2013–14 also features Laetitia Casta, Karl Lagerfeld, Carine Roitfeld, Jared Leto, Elle Fanning and Courtney Love.
   The bi-annual magazine has an avant-garde slant, and each of the featured celebrities gets their own cover, shot in the same style.
   In tune with 7 Hollywood’s editorial style, Shayk appears in various PVC items, including what appears to be a new take on a firefighter’s uniform.
   Russian-born Shayk, 27, who was covered as a ‘social influencer’ in Lucire issue 28, will go from modelling to actress in the 2014 movie, Hercules: the Thracian Wars. She has also appeared in the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue, and made the cover in 2011.

Alix Malka

As we near the 10th anniversary of H&M’s designer collaborations, the Swedish retailer went all-out in Paris last night to celebrate the launch of the Isabel Marant pour H&M collection.
   Celebrities included Audrey Tautou, January Jones, Alek Wek, Freida Pinto, Astrid Bergès-Frisbey, Olga Kurylenko, Alice Dellal, Mélanie Doutey and Lou Lesage, with live performances by Melle Mel and Rappers Delight, originally of Sugarhill Gang.
   The event’s theme was early 1990s Paris, with shop fronts and street vendors re-created at the Parisian venue, with images and films from Marant’s career displayed on the set.
   The collection hits H&M stores online and at 250 locations worldwide on November 14.
   In a release, Marant said, ‘We wanted to present the collection in a way that felt real and casual, not a red-carpet extravaganza: this is how I see my work. I design for everybody and am constantly inspired by the world I see around me, so it felt natural to have an urban setting as the backdrop of the event. And it had to be Paris, because the city is part of my DNA.’
   Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s creative adviser, said, ‘This street celebration was the perfect way to launch a collection that oozes the energy of cool Parisian style. It felt optimistic and real: a reflection of Isabel Marant’s knack for urban sophistication and bohemia. I think the collection for women, men and teen captures her spirit and I hope our customers are as excited as we are for the launch’
   January Jones said, ‘I just think she appeals to many women because there’s something very sexy and bohemian and chic—clothes than can transform from day to night and it’s very cool.
   ‘I think it’s really cool when a high-end designer does a collaboration like this and makes their designs easily accessible to everyone. The pieces are awesome—and coveted. I know many people that will be waiting in line on the 14th, it’s exciting.’
   Actress and former Bond girl Olga Kurylenko said, ‘I’m just really excited to see the collection. I’ve seen lots of things already and I think it’s fabulous. I’m just here to have a good time and celebrate the new collection.’
   Model Alek Wek said, ‘I think it’s right for every woman. It’s comfortable, it’s chic, it’s quite bohemian. You can mix and match and I think at the end that’s what really style is.’
   ‘This is the second H&M collaboration that I’ve attended. I feel it’s important to collaborate with designers who young girls aspire to, but it’s also for girls like me who love shopping at H&M—to make fashion that is not just beautiful and classy but also affordable,’ said Freida Pinto.

BCBG Max Azria, via Instagram

For those who caught our live stream during day one of New York Fashion Week’s spring–summer 2014 collections, congratulations! We’ll keep the stream up, but, for those of you who missed the shows, we feature them below.
   Nicholas K, BCBG Max Azria, Supima, Tadashi Shoji, Marissa Webb, Candela, the Art Institute of New York and Richard Chai are covered.
   Nicholas K took an Apache inspiration, creating soft, earthy sportswear. BCBG Max Azria also kept things light, with loose shapes and soft shades. Tadashi Shoji kept things feminine with lace, frills, lattice-work and pastels.
   Marissa Webb had a more edgy style with her reinterpreted schoolgirls, with skinny ties, corsets, and leather miniskirts, in brighter colours and tweed. Candela, however, kept things soft with sheer silk and lace, with its installation.
   The Art Institute of New York showcased the work of current students Daniel Jennings, Darhel Anthony, Haley Hysong, Ian Jai Park, Josimar Torres and Michael Doyle, and graduates Diana Sanchez, Isaiah Isaac (both from 2012), Luz Ortiz and Qutishia Lee (from 2013), who hold Associate of Applied Science in Fashion Design degrees.
   Richard Chai’s collection was expressly soft—he cited his inspiration as ‘soft geometry’—though it featured some harder stripes and geometric shapes. However, the detailing was indeed softer, with pleats, sequins, and billowing trouser legs.

Nicholas K

BCBG Max Azria

Supima

Tadashi Shoji

Marissa Webb

Candela

The Art Institute of New York City

Richard Chai

On Lucire’s home page is our live stream from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York. Here’s a slightly larger version, which can be expanded full screen.
   Paris editor Lola Saab is in New York covering the spring–summer 2014 fashions, with photographer Stephen Ciuccoli. A post-Fashion Week report will be published in our pages, along with regular updates with video.

NZFD Online
My Boyfriend’s Back
   Opening the runway for day three was Masterton-based designer Danielle Burkhart’s My Boyfriend’s Back, with its collection, She’s in Bloom. Dark, brooding romance, fresh innocence, and beauty in bloom appeared on the runway in devoré velvet and sheer rose print fabrics, fashioned into dreamy romantic dresses. Boiled wool was crafted into draped, oversized boyfriend capes and jackets, while sheer lace and silk were given the maxi-dress treatment (something Burkhart specializes in well). Colours of deep navy, sweetheart red and soft camel beige were grounded in onyx, slate and whites. The draped layering was there, but with it came structure, which is nice to see. This was a mature departure for Burkhart and showed her progression as a designer who is starting to become more confident in her designs.

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Millicent
   Wellington designer Paula Shepherd’s label Millicent débuted her New Zealand Fashion Week collection, entitled Blur and Focus. This was a collection that concentrated on the juxtaposition of textures, form and fabric. Leather mixed with wool, linen and silk, cotton and jersey, hard and soft, structured and relaxed. Stand-outs from the collection would be the leather pieces which were cut with a surgeon’s scalpel, fashioned into skinny cigarette-style pants with zip hardware detailing, and the finalé dress that Shepherd wore herself, which was shift-like in texture linen and with laser-cut leather sleeves. It was a beautiful cheongsam rose-print knit jersey with thigh-high split: a great fashion show-stopper that would appeal to everyone young and old.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Sheryl May
   Sheryl May’s autumn–winter collection, Reign Falls, comprised spirited pieces that stayed true to the brand, taking inspirations from the streets of London (May’s second home). Her love of print was evident in her choice to bombard the runway with clashing tartans, florals and an avian owl. Skinny leg tartan pants were paired with floral long-line tunics, while the same floral print was repeated on an embellished body-con dress. The stand-out accessory of May’s section was the owl print bag which was paraded on the last model. Its kitchy cool vibe was the perfect thing to lift the spirits among those who were jaded.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Mardle
   For Mardle designer Shiana Weir, the inspiration of Japanese onna-bugeisha (female warriors), French saints and Jeanne d’Arc were the inspiration. A collection of russet colours in jacquards and brocades were showcased in structured pants, and jackets. For a Wellington-headquartered title, it was great to see more of the capital’s presence at Fashion Week.

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Love Hotel
   Love Hotel ended the showcase with its Love on Line collection. The brand stayed with floaty, ethereal chiffon and silk printed kimonos and négligée-style slips. They branched out and did wide-leg culotte dungarees which saw much-needed structure in the collection. While the soft and floaty kimono look works in warmer climates, it was hard to see it working in colder, milder weather. The oversized berets failed to add to the collection: the show could have been edited better.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Daniel K

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Daniel K is just waiting to be discovered by more people. Beautiful, elegant pieces spoke of ease and purity of design. Opening the show was a series of wave-inspired-print pants, dresses and tunics in shades of grey and white. Upon closer inspection, the print had a cellular microscopic print which added to the allure and mystery. Harem pants were cut beautifully and draped perfectly for the right amount of fullness and fluidity. What stood out as the star of the show was the gorgeous knitwear: it was by far one of the best knitwear collections seen to date. The cherry red Wave Knit top and Blue Knot dress will be one of the biggest selling tickets come winter. From the gorgeous colour through to the manipulation of fabric creating texture and lightness, this was by far one of my favourite new discoveries: the show delivered on everything from styling to music. There was drama and a precise vision not only of a runway sense, but a commercial one. Great things are coming for this brand and it will be exciting to see how it further develops.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

BMW New Generation
The BMW New Generation showcase is often met with excitement and trepidation as three unknown designers are thrust into the spotlight. For this year’s three designers, it was exciting to see very distinct and clear personalities and design visions from such young brands.

Beverley Riverina
   From fleece to fashion, the label recalled 1970s’ home crafts as traditional methods of spinning and knitting wool were displayed in every which way possible. From macramé bags through to Afghan-style vests and dresses, everything had a homely quality.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Nara Paz
   Nara Paz was a surprise hit: formal gowns and eveningwear are not what the New Zealand market naturally gravitates to. We may be more a T-and-jeans kind of country, but on the odd occasion where dressing up is required, this designer should be on your speed dial.
   While some of the pieces felt a little bit too understated for evening or too derivative of other designers (nothing is new in fashion; however, be careful when referencing that it doesn’t become copying), the stand-outs from the collection were the beautiful black ensembles that neared the end of the runway. A tailored satin smoking jacket was paired with a “mullet” hem-style tulle layered skirt: it was a fresh and interesting take on evening wear. The black sleeve knit dress with the plunging cut-out back and leather accents was the perfect dress for wowing an appreciative audience from all angles.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Crooked Seven







Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Crooked Seven was also a surprise discovery, clean and modernist with its Mondrian-like print, tartan in cobalt, grey and black, and a flying moth print. This was young, edgy brand that would appeal to a mass market not only here but overseas as well. The splashes of red were unnecessary, but the collection left me hankering for more of its sporty-meets-glamour, easy-to-wear pieces. Reverse sheer shirts and trenches, beautifully cut jackets and pants all were crafted with a refined and mature hand.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   This year also saw the public vote in a week-long competition in which BMW gave away a NZ$5,000 voucher to one of the designers who showcased as part of the New Generation show. Crooked Seven won, and it was not hard to see why.

Swimwear
For the first time this year, New Zealand Fashion Week offered a swimwear showcase, an opportunity jumped upon by Surface Too Deep and Tigerlily. New Zealand is one of those countries where togs are almost ingrained into the psyche of our nation when summer arrives: it was exciting to see NZFW embracing this as a focus to customers.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Surface Too Deep showcased their spring–summer collection, entitled Bonnie and Belle. Kaleidoscopic and floral prints, and classic black were shown in a range of colours and styles. Designer Sarah-Jane Abraham is one clever lady: the cuts of the Surface Too Deep swimwear don’t change too dramatically season to season, but the prints and colours are updated to sit with international trends. Having only recently shown this collection in Australia to a receptive crowd, Abraham was on to a sure thing. Shades of pink, fuchsia, turquoise and sea foam as well as black and jade were printed onto balconet bra tops and high-waisted knicker-style swimwear briefs with cute buckle detailing. This is swimwear designed with real women in mind. The collaboration with Wellington’s Flash Jewellery was the perfect relationship, simplicity and elegance rolled into one outfit. Bring on summer.
   Tigerlily showed tribal Aztec resort wear with string bikinis and beach cover-ups being the label’s mainstays. Fringing, tassels and an eclectic boho traveller vibe were seen, with a palette of dusky oranges, neon pink and chambray blues. It was interesting to see the pieces modelled, though an edited eye could have been cast over some of the looks as all the layering hindered the view of the swimwear.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Pia Boutique
Pia Boutique’s solo début at NZFW was an interesting one. For the 24-year-old designer, this was an opportunity to showcase her spring–summer 2013–14 collection. The collection was nice with lots of prints crafted on to shorts and dresses with an overload of frills on hems and hips. It was a colouring box of magenta, shades of pink in all its guises, turquoise, and cobalt blue. Stand-outs from the collection were the almost-neon-pink lace shift dresses, and the printed gown at the end. While it was nice to see the collection in full, with all the colour variations that some garments came in, a more edited eye could have been cast, and newer design styles added to showcase the designer’s ability.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Salasai


Nikita Brown/Nikita Brown Photography

Finishing the day’s proceedings on a high was designer Kirsha Whitcher’s label Salasai. Her 12 looks were a carefully styled collection of wearable cosmopolitan fashion that would sit well within any market. Clearly the move from Hawke’s Bay to Perth has had a profund effect on Whitcher, as Salasai is fast growing into a more polished brand. Everything from the knitwear to the outerwear and accessories was lust-worthy as the gathered crowd of appreciative and captive fans oohed and aahed at each piece that came down the runway. Best of show was the kimono-cum-bomber jacket (the best bomber of the week). A beautiful silk print of birds and fauna was fashioned with striped knit collar and hem. Creating a beautiful silouhtte, paired with artfully draped harm pants, this was a lookthat could be seen on any sidewalk of any international city. The short sleeve cape style coat was also stand out in its beautiful camel colour. The bird print also appeared in a shirt and pant combo that created the eautiful isllusion of one fo the season hottest trends the jumpsuit. For the boys, drop crotch trousers in deep slate grey and check tartans of black and white was paired with old school jumpers with contrasting colour lines. Ostrich feathers and wool shearling collars added a bit of fun and glamour to the proceedings as did the crystal accessories that adorned the models looks. This was by far the one of the weeks highlights and it was nice to see a show that was so clear in its message and self assurance of bradn identity that it only needed 12 looks to definie what the Salasai brand is all about.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion and Beauty Editor

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography