Frédéric David/Chanel

Olivier Saillant/Chanel

Paris editor Lola Cristall will have her report from the Paris haute couture shows shortly in Lucire. Among them, Chanel showed its spring–summer 2015 collection beneath the dome at the Grand Palais, in one of the most memorable.
   By way of preview of Lucire’s upcoming piece, here are glimpses of a very delicate, light and airy collection from Karl Lagerfeld, shown in front of a celebrity audience that included Chanel ambassadors Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis and Alice Dellal (who have all been chosen to be the faces of the Chanel handbags’ campaign to be released in April), Anna Mouglalis, Gaspard Ulliel, Clotilde Hesme, Alma Jodorowsky, Anne Berest, G-Dragon, Dylan Penn and Stacy Martin.
   The greenhouse setting was intentional as a bouquet appeared, with orange, red, pink, blue, yellow and green as Chanel’s colours for spring. Short tops, jackets and blouses, long coats, dropped waists, both full and pencil-cut skirts, wide brimmed hats and tweed jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves contribute to the vintage garden look. Embroidered flowers, tulle and sequins sparkle for the evening.

Olivier Saillant/Chanel

Miss Universe Colombia, Paulina Vega, was crowned Miss Universe 2015 in Doral, Fla. on Sunday. Julián Macías, the CHI hairstylist who worked on Vega’s hair at the final, used a new range called the Miss Universe Style Illuminate Hair Care Line, which Farouk Systems launched during the competition.
   ‘Begin by spritzing the hair with Miss Universe Style Illuminate’s Set the Stage blow-dry spray for intense heat protection from damage and breakage while eliminating frizz and resisting humidity,’ he said. ‘The lightweight formulation detangles, smoothes, and softens, while dramatically decreasing blow-dry time. This is especially needed to get each contestant ready quickly for each event.
   ‘Comb through to evenly distribute and with the Miss Universe CHI Professional Hair Dryer, dry hair with your hands to remove the bulk of moisture, lifting hair at the base to provide ample volume.
   ‘When hair is still slightly damp, section the hair into four parts: top, sides, back and nape. Starting at the nape area, with a large CHI round ceramic brush, finish blow-drying by again lifting the hair at the root area. Continue to dry the rest of the section by smoothing and rounding the ends under. Continue throughout the entire head.
   ‘Next, take a medium round CHI ceramic brush and wrap larger sections throughout the head, twirling them around the brush. Give each section a blast of hot air followed by cool air to set in the curl.
   ‘When releasing each section, continue to twist as you remove the brush. By unwrapping the twirl, this helps to create those soft sultry waves.
   ‘For added curl definition and volume, the Miss Universe CHI 1¼-inch titanium curling iron was used to bump the ends under and add several more defined curls. The base was sprayed with Restage dry shampoo for added lift and texture. This will also absorb any perspiration and oils from the warm temperatures of Miami.’
   Macías concluded, ‘To finish, spray with Rock Your Crown firm hair spray for the perfect hold during quick changes while a misting of Spotlight Shine spray is needed to add shine and glisten to hair just like her crown.’
   Ulta currently retails the CHI Miss Universe Style Illuminate Line at www.ulta.com.

Tom Schirmacher

Karen Walker Eyewear has announced its summer 2015 collection, and, in the brand’s inimitable style, sees Toast, a King Charles cavalier spaniel, as the model.
   Brands all over the world want celebrities with strong social media followings, and Karen Walker is no exception. The rescued “it” dog has 154,000 Instagram followers and has already donned shades on her account. Now as the spokesdog for Karen Walker Eyewear, she’s expected to be wearing her new brand on the streets of New York.
   In a release, Walker cheekily says, ‘We were after a model for this campaign who could fit with our caramelly colour palette and also someone whose hair would work with our three wind machines hitting her from every angle to create a slightly ’70s vibe. Toast ticked every one of those boxes.’
   The new campaign, hashtagged #toastmeetskaren, has been photographed by Tom Schirmacher, and creative-directed by Mikhail Gherman. Grooming for Toast was by Hannah Raymond, and hair by Gavin Harwin.
   The collection has five new styles, featuring two-tone patchwork with gold trim, dusty colours, and CR39 lenses for UV protection. The eyewear is double-polished and cured for strength.
   The company can claim Beyoncé, Rihanna, Scarlett Johansson, Lena Dunham, Gwen Stefani, Alexa Chung, Lady Gaga, Lorde and Florence Welch among its wearers. The range hits stores in February 2015.

Tom Schirmacher

Courtesy Giambattista Valli

Lucire fashion editor Sopheak Seng had two very clear picks at the 2015 Golden Globes: Lupita Nyong’o in Giambattista Valli haute couture embroidered silk gown, and Emma Stone (nominated for Birdman) in a custom Lanvin beaded jumpsuit with a taffeta bow (left).
   There was also Keira Knightley, nominated for The Imitation Game, in a sequinned Chanel green muslin dress with feather embroidery, based on look 50 of the Paris–Salzburg 2014–15 collection. Chanel says 31 of its staff, the plumassier Lemarié and the embroiderer Lesage worked on making her dress.
   Dakota Johnson (Fifty Shades of Grey) wore a Chanel haute couture embroidered long bustier dress from the autumn–winter 2014–15 collection, complemented by the Chanel Muse ring in 18 ct white gold, diamonds and cultured pearls.
   Diane Krüger wore a shimmery Emilia Wickstead gown accessorized with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Art Deco watch.
   Our videos feature Eddie Redmayne, winning best actor for The Theory of Everything, confessing to cutting his honeymoon short to be at the Golden Globes 2015; and Chris Pratt and Anna Faris on the red carpet being dubbed the Globes’ ‘cutest couple’.

Chanel

Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

Taylor Swift headed out on Monday in Tribeca, New York, with her mother, father and younger brother, wearing a fashionable ensemble of a Ralph Lauren navy roll-neck sweater and coat, over a tartan skirt and woollen tights, topped with a green woollen hat.
   The singer, who recently turned 25, and who remains one of the most talked-about musicians in the occident, looked fashionable in navy and magenta. She wore a bright red lipstick and thick eyeliner.
   The family enjoyed brunch at Locanda Verde on Greenwich Street.
   Green, rather than navy, was the choice of Lauren Silverman, wearing a Melissa Odabash bikini with a straw hat and netted top while on holiday in Barbados with Simon Cowell and their son, Eric.
   Our last video is a summary of One Direction’s best moments of 2014. Still riding high, the former X Factor stars have scooped many awards, and as a group, earned $75 million in 2014.

Shang Xia, a Chinese lifestyle brand, has launched its new Le Chant du Thé campaign images, photographed by Paolo Roversi. Jiang Qiong Er, the artistic director of Shang Xia, with the collaboration of the Fred & Farid agency in Shanghai, and Roversi himself, came up with the concept, playing on the brand’s Chinese roots. Jiang says, ‘More and more Chinese people, after spending so long dominated by western style, have a need to return to their own cultural heritage.’ By linking it to tea, at the core of Chinese civilization, the photographs feature tea leaves and even a pool of tea, alongside the Shang Xia Lan Yue leather and bamboo bag, the Sculpture overcoat in cashmere felt, and Bridge, a tea service crafted in bamboo.

   Italian supercar brand Lamborghini has announced a limited-edition Aventador LP700-4 Pirelli Edition, celebrating its collaboration with the tyre manufacturer. Pirelli has equipped Lamborghini cars since the beginning in 1963, and the Pirelli Edition, for which orders are being taken now, will be available for delivery in the northern summer. Coupé and roadster models are available. The Pirelli Edition features a two-tone colour scheme (matt black detailing combined with a body in Giallo Spica, Rosso Mars, Bianco Isis, Nero Aldebaran, Grigio Liqueo or Grigio Ater, or gloss black for the upper parts of the car and the air intakes, with four matt finishes in Bianco Canopus, Nero Nemesis, Grigio Adamas or Grigio Titans for the remainder). There’s a smidge more information on the new model at Lucire Men.

   Estée Lauder will acquire Glamglow, a Hollywood skin care brand with a collection of high-end treatment masks, with the deal to close in January.
   The current line includes five mud-based facial skin mask products, each targeting a different skin care concern: Youthmud for anti-ageing, Supermud for problem skin, Thirstymud for hydration, Powermud for deep cleansing, and Brightmud for the under-eye area. A range of daily cleansers will appear in January.
   The four-year-old company, originally called Hollywood’s Boutique Secret, already retails in Sephora, Douglas, Neiman Marcus, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdale’s and, from January, Nordstrom.

The 2014 graduate show from the Raffles College of Design and Commerce, titled Perspective, took place in the big top of the iconic Luna Park in Sydney on December 9.
   The location could not have been more idyllic, and the weather, which has been very stormy of late, held, allowing all guests and designers to make their way to the show.
   It is almost impossible to make comment about all 30 graduates but having an eye for trend, I can say that there was a yearning felt through a sizeable portion of the work presented to embrace all things Mother Nature, in all her textures and colours: escapism, easier living, freedom and expressionism. There were 30 capsule collections consisting of six looks each.
   The show was opened by Queency Yustiawan, inspired by the work of Russian painter Kazimir Malevich. A dramatic black-and-white dress coat was the pièce de résistance and reminded me of a bicolour paper plane. I was impressed with the tailoring of the piece.

Below Queency Yustiawan.

   Good tailoring has been spotted across much of the collections showed, which speaks volumes about the college they are graduating from. What I thought was a dying skill, cherished by very few nowadays, has hope.
   My total stand-out was the capsule by Ashleigh Kwong, which displayed pared-back elegance, fresh and interesting prints and shapes, and wearability. There was a little white trapeze dress with a blue print that I would happily wear any time.

Below The stand-out for Lucire’s Viviana Pannell was the capsule collection by Ashleigh Kwong.

   In the glamour department, Shannon Gambino was a shining star, and so was Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van, with her royal blue obsession. Her inspiration reminded me slightly of Toni Maticevski and my favourite piece was a little single-shoulder cocktail dress featuring delicate, layered ruffles. Also notable in this department was Lily Purkiss, who presented a capsule of delicate sheers covering shorter layers: utter purity and elegance. Hailing all the way from Italy, Daniela Monica Da Rui presented a capsule inspired by German expressionism, femmes fatales and film noir. She captured her brief very well as one of the pieces, an elegant black dress appliquéd with sculptural black twigs, made me think of a fairy tale with the iconic Marlene Dietrich playing the lead. Christine Milanja, with her elegant and demurely sexy capsule, also deserves a mention.

Below Shannon Gambino.

Below A royal blue obsession from Tiana Ha Phuong Thao Van.
Below Lily Purkiss.
Below Italian designer, Daniela Monica da Rui.
Below Christine Milanja.
   High on wearability were Molly Ya Jung Wu with her pared-down capsule exhibiting very interesting cuts. Rishella Lisha Liang presented a capsule of more wearable menswear and resort-like womenswear featuring appliqués.
   The best menswear, to my mind, was presented by Noal Yam Gurung. Xtra Senquan Ruan presented an interesting combination of interlocking shapes and draping.

Below Molly Ya Jung Wu.

Below Rishella Lisha Liang, featuring wearable menswear.
Below Noal Yam Gurung created the best menswear of the show.
Below Xtra Senquan Ruan.
   It was a beautiful show and I expect to see much more from these graduates. I just love to see unbridled creativity not yet contaminated by commercial realities and the utter need to push prices down in today’s world. Good things are worth paying a nice sum for and are treasured forever. Some of what I saw could be produced and placed into stores tomorrow.

New Zealand menswear tailors Rembrandt Suits and Wayward Heir have revealed their summer 2014–15 collections, paying homage to the coveted summer holiday. Designer Jonathon Hall puts the loyal jacket front and centre in the Rembrandt collection, with the pièce de résistance being the crease resistant ultimate travel jacket, the Halcyon.
   To prove their confidence in the jacket, professional footballer Paul Ifill tested the Halcyon (captured in the video below), and Hall recently took the jacket on a 15-day tour of Europe’s fabric fairs (search Instagram for the hashtag #halcyonontour, and see some of the photographs at the bottom of this article).

   With the holiday season fast approaching, Hall takes us through Rembrandt and Wayward Heir’s top ten must-haves for a summer escape.

   1. Rembrandt’s wool–mohair Halcyon, the definitive travel jacket. This unlined lightweight jacket, available in navy and silver-grey, is strong and durable with an exceptional resistance to wrinkles, making it the ultimate fabric for travelling across town, or around the world.

   2. Rembrandt cotton-stretch Beck trousers: narrow fit with plenty of stretch, perfect dressed up or down and exceptionally comfortable to wear on long-haul flights.

   3. An unlined cotton or linen jacket; for a more relaxed look choose between Wayward Heir’s Rimini and Rembrandt’s double-breasted Cornwall jacket.

   4. Blue Hoxton cotton-stretch jeans: they perfectly fill the gap between a jean and a chino.

   5. Wayward Heir Japanese selvedge Garage jeans: a great pair of jeans can take you anywhere.

   6. At least one slim white shirt, a classic that you can wear with anything, for any event.

   7. A Rembrandt Liberty print shirt: dress it up, dress it down, enjoy.

   8. Good shoes. Ones that you’ve worn in. Don’t travel with a brand new pair of shoes, you’ll regret it.

   9. A Rembrandt reversible belt: it can do double-duty with either black or brown shoes.

   10. Pocket squares: even if you’re not wearing a tie, a pocket square in your jacket completes any look. Just make sure one of them is white linen.

Travel tip

When flying, the best way to keep creases out of your jacket (even the crease-resistant Halcyon) is to hang it. A seat-back hook is better than folding, but ideally you could request it gets hung in the cabin wardrobe.