The 1970s have well and truly returned, and we don’t just mean with the uncertain economic mood. H&M’s Studio collection for autumn–winter 2020–1 reflects this, too, with a collection called The Refined Rebel, inspired by the 19th-century writer, Violet Paget (who used Vernon Lee as her nom-de-plume), and her residence at the Palmerino villa in Firenze. Despite officially referencing Paget, the style is very much 1970s, with big lapels and a slight flare for suits, including some outlandish colours in green and blue; big-shouldered coats and dresses in a multi-coloured print resembling splashes of paint; recycled polyester frilled blouses; a grey deconstructed sleeveless coat; and chunky-heeled boots. The clothes are gender-fluid, suiting the times, but in the mode of 1970s David Bowie, who was there well before the mainstream. The colour palette is azure blue and malachite green, says H&M, with champagne pink and marbled prints.
   The campaign has been shot separately from different parts of the world, given distancing rules and travel restrictions in place. Barbie Ferreira, Veronika Heilbrunner, Celeste, Alton Mason, Young Emperors and Mia Kong have each done their own interpretations of the collection and the imagery brought together by H&M. Meanwhile, Irina Shayk, Jameela Jamil, Sasha Lane and Indya Moore have donned designs from the range in a series of celebrity images.
   Customers are invited to share their own images from the range.
   â€˜The AW20 Studio collection muse is not afraid to challenge the status quo. This collection is for those that celebrate being oneself above all else. We hope our customers feel inspired to dress with a carefree, rebellious attitude,’ said H&M’s creative adviser, Ann-Sofie Johansson.
   â€˜In keeping with H&M’s strive for innovation, the H&M Studio team experimented with an exciting new campaign format for AW20. Adapted for today’s climate, this new way of working gives our global cast the creative freedom to style, photograph and express themselves in the comfort of their own space. We hope the new collection and campaign encourages everyone to celebrate their style,’ said Kattis Bahrke, H&M’s head of creative marketing and communications.

Top and above: By Mishco’s limited-edition masks have proven to be strong sellers. Below left: Ketz-ke’s bold mask designs.

New Zealand label Ketz-ke, featured in Lucire KSA’s September 2020 issue, has, like numerous other fashion labels, created designer masks. Masks—as predicted in Victoria Whisker’s recent story—have become a fashion item, and Ketz-ke’s more than qualify, with their bold designs. They’re retailing at three for NZ$36·50.
   They’re not alone. A new label set up in August reached a milestone when it sold 50 limited-edition masks per hour. By Mishco, founded by Ayla Bligh, set up to provide work for six women made redundant or suffered reduced hours because of COVID-19, sold out of its limited-edition lines within a week.
   Bligh referred to recent statistics that revealed that over 90 per cent of the 11,000 redundancies in New Zealand during the second quarter of 2020 were faced by women. It was her aim to empower women and keeping production local.
   By Mishco has scaled up production of its cotton–linen blend masks to meet demand, and is launching a line of children’s masks. Locals can collect using contactless methods. The company sold through a Facebook group called Chooice and more information can be found at bymishco.co.nz.

Harold Cunningham

With the start of Geneva Watch Days on Wednesday, CEOs from Breitling (Georges Kern), Bulgari (Jean-Christophe Babin), Ulysse–Nardin (Patrick Pruniaux), H. Moser & Cie. (Edouard Meylan), MB&F (Maximilian Büsser) along with the Conseil d’État de Genève’s Mauro Poggia and other VIPs joined together to open the event. Breitling launched its Endurance Pro sports’ watch at the event, and brought in its spokespeople—Ronnie Schildknecht, Daniela Ryf and Jan van Berkel—to the Hotel Four Seasons for it.
   The Breitling Endurance Pro is described as ‘the ultimate athleisure watch’ with a COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 82, with a SuperQuartz movement (said to be 10 times more precise than regular quartz), and far brighter colours than we’ve come to expect from the Grenchen-based firm.
   The case measures 44 mm, and despite the size, the watch is particularly light, with the company’s Breitlight material, which is 3·3 times lighter than titanium and 5·8 times lighter than stainless steel. Breitlight is non-magnetic, thermally stable, hypoallergenic, highly scratch- and corrosion-resistant, and feels warmer to the touch than metal. Hour and minute hands are coated with fluorescent SuperLumiNova. Price-wise, it is expected to be lower, bringing in new customers.
   The Endurance Pro features a pulsometer scale and a rubber strap that matches the inner bezel ring. Customers have the option of adding Outerknown Econyl yarn NATO straps. The watch is water-resistant to 100 m and comes with a two-year warranty.
   Inspiration comes from the 1970s’ Breitling Sprint, which incorporated a pulsometer, and which also came in a series of bright colours.

Nick Ramsey; Blenders

Blue light glasses are definitely a sign of our times, and that we may be spending far too much time in front of our screens. There are still many cellphones that don’t have blue light filters, and television manufacturers are obsessed about how bright their sets can go—just head into any retailer—and not about the long-term effects of living with their screens for years.
   So, instead of creating technology to serve and adapt to us, in comes another business to help us adapt to technology. Blenders Eyewear is the latest to get into the blue light glasses’ game, with two designs in four colour combinations as part of its introductory line.
   To Blenders’ credit, and in line with their existing sunglasses and snow goggles for those pursuing an active life, the designs are very stylish. The L Series features a square, lightweight frame, with bright colours. The Coastal has a rounder frame, with subtle splashes of colours on the arms. All are priced under US$50.
   Blenders began as a backpack business on the beach in 2012, and grew quickly to become a global brand. Find out more at www.blenderseyewear.com.

Austrian brand Stegmann, founded in 1888 and known for its comfortable wool felt footwear, will release an expanded EcoWool clog line on August 3.
   With an eye on species preservation and supporting heritage sheep breeds, the EcoWool clogs come in four colours: Stonesheep, made with wool from Tyrolean Stone sheep in Austria; Shetland, with wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland; Alpaca, with wool from Peruvian alpacas in the Andes; and Juraschaf, with wool from Juraschaf sheep in Switzerland. The latter two are new to the line.
   The uppers are all shaped and stitched by hand. They are then paired with a sustainably sourced cork–Latex footbed. Stegmann’s production line is carbon-neutral, chemical-free and zero-waste.
   The shoes themselves have been recommended by podiatrists, with their arch, toe, metatarsal bar and heel cup support.
   US customers are invited to place their orders at www.stegmannusa.com.

New Zealand-founded label Icebreaker has shown its autumn–winter 2020 collection, with the staples that we’ve come to love from this outdoor wear label, including tops, vests, shirts, puffer jackets, and leggings. The brand continues to incorporate super-fine merino wool, which in Icebreaker’s case is ethically sourced from growers who have banned mulesing. The wool is biodegradable and annually renewable.

   COVID-19 has forced many to slow down and appreciate what we have. Malo (www.malo.it), the cashmere brand from Firenze, Italy, agrees, with its chairman, Walter Maiocchi, noting: ‘Now it’s time to reflect and slow down. We need to grasp the positive teachings of this new global situation.’ He stresses that his company makes timeless garments that transcend seasons, and this is its contribution to sustainability. The Malo spring–summer 2020 collection, made in Italy, is based around a virtual journey around the country.

   Paradigm Eyewear’s sunglasses have become a favourite among Hollywood celebs, especially its 19-34 model. Both Sofia Vergara (Modern Family) and Hannah Ann Sluss (The Bachelor) have been photographed wearing their Paradigm sunglasses as they went out and about. The 19-34, available in different colours and lenses, retails at US$125 at baxterandbonny.com.