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February 24, 2015

The wonderment of Flow

Tamara Madison/12.46

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There’s nothing like a carefully plated delicious meal that will get conversation started at the dinner table. Food generally brings families and friends together, and like food, fashion tends to gather hungry crowds just the same. A room full of thirsty appetites, whether desiring a glass of shiraz or craving a fresh take on classic silhouettes is all digested best with a dose of sustenance.
   Flow, a burgeoning fashion label founded by two sisters, Victoria and Veronika, understands how to design in harmony. Their Belgian–Ukrainian label, not to be confused with the Malaysia-based clothing retailer of the same name, embodies the art of creating just the right amount of what the Swedes call lagom, and it shows throughout their collections.
   Pieces are not overly designed. Instead, garments are braised predominantly in pure silk and cotton, then enriched by colour or finishing shape. The sisters experiment with volume, whilst using the unconventional as an undercurrent in designing. The result is a pensive (spring–summer 2015) collection full of playful prints with child-like embraces, Japanese-inspired shapes, and a modern perspective on sportswear.
   The designing pair has managed to produce a smörgÃ¥sbord of distinct and charming garments to satiate fashion palates, especially if it favours edgy, artful, and quirky styles. Nonetheless, the pleasant appeal of a Flow garment might also be the fact that it can be worn by diverse women. ‘The most essential is to have that “special something” inside of you. That feminine, sensitive and elegant, yet kindly ironic thing that is very Flow. It is more about chemistry and common wit,’ the designers said, regarding the Flow woman.
   So, what’s the secret to the flourishing brand? Well, their approach to design is much like a gourmet recipe, using key ingredients to craft a tasty and well balanced dish to savour. Their main course is just also served with a side of passion, meticulousness, and confidence. And, like your grandmother’s recipe secrets, when it comes to the artful process, they prefer to keep it close to home.
   In fact, the sisters are involved in all aspects of the design process. However, having just under a dozen people in their design team certainly helps. ‘When we seek new co-workers, we primarily seek professionals who can become new members of the family. Creation of a collection is a group process and mutual understanding has great influence on the result,’ the designers confessed.
   In their spring–summer 2015 collection, you will see a palette of red, white, and blue with accented colours that look as vivid as a fresh floral bouquet. Pieces like the pyjama-esque silk garment with kookaburra bird drawings are eye-catching. The line is full of sprightly, sophisticated sportswear with a contemporary gracefulness that’s hard to ignore. But, that’s mostly because of the designer’s underlining influence, including the œuvres of Niko Pirosmani and Ivan Semesyuk. ‘The spirit [of the line] is childish and patrician at the same time,’ the designers said.
   Flow’s offerings come in a range of styles, with pieces that can easily be translated into workwear, or casual elegance for the avant-garde art enthusiast. There are silhouettes for the classic fashion darling, as well as separates that exemplify opulence at its very core. The designers have fused a nourishing concoction of culture and art, creating a smart fashion paella, all which seems to give them a discerning compound of depth and simplicity.
   The young brand’s maturity in execution and outlook is well seasoned. And, with only a handful of collections under their belt, there’s much that they have already learned from having a fashion business. ‘It requires lots of time and enormous sources of energy … true fashion is always about the dream, the feeling, and the humanly approach,’ Flow said.
   You may view Flow’s upcoming autumn-winter collection at the BeNext showroom during this Paris fashion week, and at the Tranoï exhibition shown in Milano.
   For more information, visit www.flowthelabel.com.—Tamara Madison



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February 20, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 6 and 7: glamour and soft palettes

Lucire staff/23.16

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Dan Lecca

Above Lie Sangbong’s autumn–winter 2015–16 looks, which also feature in Lola Cristall’s forthcoming New York report.

Our final clips before Lola Cristall’s Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week report for the fall–winter 2015–16 collections are below, with videos from Michael Kors, Jenny Packham, Zang Toi, Lupe Gajardo, the Art Institutes, Bibhu Mohapatra, Lie Sangbong, Francesca Liberatore, Leanne Marshall, Thomas Wylde, Anna Sui, Erin Fetherston, Iijin, Malan Breton, Tokyo Runway, Sergio Davila, Dorin Negrau and AmFAR.
   Our London Fashion Week live player is currently on our home page. On the main part of the site, NYC beauty editor Jamie Dorman has her picks for skin-like foundations, while publisher Jack Yan samples the Peugeot 308 Allure Blue HDi in our ‘Living’ section.

Michael Kors

Jenny Packham

Zang Toi

Lupe Gajardo

The Art Institutes

Bibhu Mohapatra

Lie Sangbong

Francesca Liberatore

Leanne Marshall

Thomas Wylde

Anna Sui

Erin Fetherston

Iijin

Malan Breton

Tokyo Runway

Sergio Davila

Dorin Negrau

AmFAR

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February 18, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, day 5: from romantic silks to Taoray Wang’s dramatic style

Lucire staff/1.58

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Above Vivienne Tam’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection paid respect not only to Tam’s Chinese culture but the occidental interpretation of it in chinoiserie. (Courtesy Vivienne Tam; photographed by Dan Lecca.)

Day five of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York was the biggest day of the week, as we showcase videos from the fall–winter 2015–16 collections below from Parkchoonmoo, Carolina Herrera, La Petite Robe, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Pamella Roland, Reem Acra, Prabal Gurung, Vivienne Tam, Libertine, Badgley Mischka, J. Crew, Lela Rose, Naeem Khan, Michael Costello, and Skingraft. Taoray Wang, Oudifu and Georgine appear on our pages for the first time.
   Carolina Herrera showed an aquatic-themed collection with wool and organza, with blues and greys. Chiara Boni’s La Petite Robe got us into the Italian mood with classic songs played as the audience arrived, and through the show itself, with ‘Volaré’ and ‘’O Sole Mio’, displaying a creative use of stretch jersey and sheer fabrics. Reem Acra went romantic with embellishments, layers and lace, with blacks, reds and golds; Vivienne Tam also used lace to good effect with her collection, along with rich, floral patterns evoking chinoiserie and Victorian costume.
   Taoray Wang, helming a label that first appeared for the spring–summer 2015 catwalks, was a pleasant surprise, with her sense of drama and volume: statement coats, big collars, turtle necks, dotted prints and angular shapes made us sit up and notice, and we believe she’s a label to watch out for. This was a classic winter collection that we believe will hit the mark well when autumn hits the US. Georgine used plenty of metallic, shimmering fabrics as it took us back to the second half of the 1970s.
   A more comprehensive report led by Paris editor Lola Cristall will appear in an upcoming issue of Lucire.

Parkchoonmoo

Carolina Herrera

La Petite Robe

Taoray Wang

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Pamella Roland

Reem Acra

Prabal Gurung

Vivienne Tam

Libertine

Oudifu

Badgley Mischka

Georgine

J. Crew

Lela Rose

Naeem Khan

Michael Costello

Skingraft

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February 15, 2015

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York fall–winter 2015–16, days 3 and 4: vibrant and embellished

Eleanor Wright/23.19

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Above Custo Barcelona’s fall–winter 2015–16 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York (courtesy the designer and Getty Images).

Noon by Noor’s fall–winter 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York delivered a stunning display of clean forms and exquisitely shaped silhouettes. Composed in a dark palette featuring monochromatic textures and materials with delicate pops of gold, silver, purple and sparkling embellishments, this latest line is a testament to creativity and coherence.
   Son Jung Wan divulges into a realm of purple, blue, grey, gold and red to deliver a spectacular range of looks featuring glistening gowns, fur-embellished sleeves, treated metallic fabrics and skilfully structured jackets. Each piece makes a statement that dares to be different and each look perpetuates an individuality stemming from thematic inspiration.
   David Tlale’s collection for New York Fashion Week is absolutely mesmerizing with soft forms and earthy tones. The palette resonates with deep grey, light browns, soft creams and gold in contrast with the sultry flow of the fabrics and the fluid compositions of the designs.
   Ranfan demonstrates that orange is definitely the new black with a vibrant collection of rich orange, yellow, red and pinks offset with cool hues of grey, blue, white and black compositions. Geometric floral prints, fur and shimmering fabrics are featured throughout this eclectic line conveying a strong ethereal presence in each look.
   The Custo Barcelona collection, Shake Before Use, composed a myriad of their signature intricate detailing through designs, patterns, forms and textures across their collection. A carefully articulated blend of plaid, tweed, fur, metallic, geometric graphics and many more styles clash together in effortless unity.—Eleanor Wright

Nicole Miller

Monique Lhuillier

Lacoste

Noon by Noor

Son Jung Wan

Hervé Léger

Mara Hoffman

Venexiana

Vivienne Hu

Ranfan

David Tlale

Carmen Marc Valvo

Custo Barcelona

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January 28, 2015

Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis, Alice Dellal at Chanel couture; announced as models for new campaign

Lucire staff/11.35

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Frédéric David/Chanel



Olivier Saillant/Chanel

Paris editor Lola Cristall will have her report from the Paris haute couture shows shortly in Lucire. Among them, Chanel showed its spring–summer 2015 collection beneath the dome at the Grand Palais, in one of the most memorable.
   By way of preview of Lucire’s upcoming piece, here are glimpses of a very delicate, light and airy collection from Karl Lagerfeld, shown in front of a celebrity audience that included Chanel ambassadors Kristen Stewart, Vanessa Paradis and Alice Dellal (who have all been chosen to be the faces of the Chanel handbags’ campaign to be released in April), Anna Mouglalis, Gaspard Ulliel, Clotilde Hesme, Alma Jodorowsky, Anne Berest, G-Dragon, Dylan Penn and Stacy Martin.
   The greenhouse setting was intentional as a bouquet appeared, with orange, red, pink, blue, yellow and green as Chanel’s colours for spring. Short tops, jackets and blouses, long coats, dropped waists, both full and pencil-cut skirts, wide brimmed hats and tweed jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves contribute to the vintage garden look. Embroidered flowers, tulle and sequins sparkle for the evening.









Olivier Saillant/Chanel

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January 27, 2015

Getting Miss Universe 2015 Pauline Vega’s hair: stylist Julián Macías shares his secrets

Lucire staff/13.33

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Miss Universe Colombia, Paulina Vega, was crowned Miss Universe 2015 in Doral, Fla. on Sunday. Julián Macías, the CHI hairstylist who worked on Vega’s hair at the final, used a new range called the Miss Universe Style Illuminate Hair Care Line, which Farouk Systems launched during the competition.
   â€˜Begin by spritzing the hair with Miss Universe Style Illuminate’s Set the Stage blow-dry spray for intense heat protection from damage and breakage while eliminating frizz and resisting humidity,’ he said. ‘The lightweight formulation detangles, smoothes, and softens, while dramatically decreasing blow-dry time. This is especially needed to get each contestant ready quickly for each event.
   â€˜Comb through to evenly distribute and with the Miss Universe CHI Professional Hair Dryer, dry hair with your hands to remove the bulk of moisture, lifting hair at the base to provide ample volume.
   â€˜When hair is still slightly damp, section the hair into four parts: top, sides, back and nape. Starting at the nape area, with a large CHI round ceramic brush, finish blow-drying by again lifting the hair at the root area. Continue to dry the rest of the section by smoothing and rounding the ends under. Continue throughout the entire head.
   â€˜Next, take a medium round CHI ceramic brush and wrap larger sections throughout the head, twirling them around the brush. Give each section a blast of hot air followed by cool air to set in the curl.
   â€˜When releasing each section, continue to twist as you remove the brush. By unwrapping the twirl, this helps to create those soft sultry waves.
   â€˜For added curl definition and volume, the Miss Universe CHI 1¼-inch titanium curling iron was used to bump the ends under and add several more defined curls. The base was sprayed with Restage dry shampoo for added lift and texture. This will also absorb any perspiration and oils from the warm temperatures of Miami.’
   Macías concluded, ‘To finish, spray with Rock Your Crown firm hair spray for the perfect hold during quick changes while a misting of Spotlight Shine spray is needed to add shine and glisten to hair just like her crown.’
   Ulta currently retails the CHI Miss Universe Style Illuminate Line at www.ulta.com.

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Filed under: beauty, hair, Lucire, New York, trend
January 25, 2015

Pawesome: Karen Walker Eyewear toasts her summer 2015 collection

Lucire staff/8.55

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Tom Schirmacher

Karen Walker Eyewear has announced its summer 2015 collection, and, in the brand’s inimitable style, sees Toast, a King Charles cavalier spaniel, as the model.
   Brands all over the world want celebrities with strong social media followings, and Karen Walker is no exception. The rescued “it” dog has 154,000 Instagram followers and has already donned shades on her account. Now as the spokesdog for Karen Walker Eyewear, she’s expected to be wearing her new brand on the streets of New York.
   In a release, Walker cheekily says, ‘We were after a model for this campaign who could fit with our caramelly colour palette and also someone whose hair would work with our three wind machines hitting her from every angle to create a slightly ’70s vibe. Toast ticked every one of those boxes.’
   The new campaign, hashtagged #toastmeetskaren, has been photographed by Tom Schirmacher, and creative-directed by Mikhail Gherman. Grooming for Toast was by Hannah Raymond, and hair by Gavin Harwin.
   The collection has five new styles, featuring two-tone patchwork with gold trim, dusty colours, and CR39 lenses for UV protection. The eyewear is double-polished and cured for strength.
   The company can claim Beyoncé, Rihanna, Scarlett Johansson, Lena Dunham, Gwen Stefani, Alexa Chung, Lady Gaga, Lorde and Florence Welch among its wearers. The range hits stores in February 2015.



Tom Schirmacher






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January 13, 2015

The 2015 Golden Globes’ most stylish: Lupita Nyong’o and Emma Stone

Lucire staff/12.41

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Courtesy Giambattista Valli


Courtesy Lanvin

Lucire fashion editor Sopheak Seng had two very clear picks at the 2015 Golden Globes: Lupita Nyong’o in Giambattista Valli haute couture embroidered silk gown, and Emma Stone (nominated for Birdman) in a custom Lanvin beaded jumpsuit with a taffeta bow (left).
   There was also Keira Knightley, nominated for The Imitation Game, in a sequinned Chanel green muslin dress with feather embroidery, based on look 50 of the Paris–Salzburg 2014–15 collection. Chanel says 31 of its staff, the plumassier Lemarié and the embroiderer Lesage worked on making her dress.
   Dakota Johnson (Fifty Shades of Grey) wore a Chanel haute couture embroidered long bustier dress from the autumn–winter 2014–15 collection, complemented by the Chanel Muse ring in 18 ct white gold, diamonds and cultured pearls.
   Diane Krüger wore a shimmery Emilia Wickstead gown accessorized with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Joaillerie 101 Art Deco watch.
   Our videos feature Eddie Redmayne, winning best actor for The Theory of Everything, confessing to cutting his honeymoon short to be at the Golden Globes 2015; and Chris Pratt and Anna Faris on the red carpet being dubbed the Globes’ ‘cutest couple’.




Chanel


Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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