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News in brief: bags from Maison 203 and Deadly Ponies; Bird and Knoll shows resort collection


NEWS  by Lucire staff/May 3, 2017/23.29




Federico Marin

Maison 203’s new clutches for spring–summer 2017 have a funky, modernist ĂŠsthetic with a dash of futurism to them. Designed by Odo Fioravanti, the clutches take inspiration from architecture, and have up-to-the-minute metallic shades for summer, as well as gold and bronze.
   The new clutches, dubbed Bern, Armure and Ivy, are available on the Maison 203 website, or at its store in Venezia (Via Cartizze 5, 31049 Valdobbiadene (TV)). A new store will open in Zaragoza on May 20.
   Deadly Ponies’ Pearlies collection, launching May 5, takes a very different inspiration: that of Henry Croft, a road sweeper who donned a “pearly suit”, clothing decorated with mother of pearl buttons, to charity events. The Pearly Kings and Queens, a charity which arose from Croft’s efforts, still exist today, helping communities in London.
   There are totes and clutches in the pearly tradition, but the highlight is on the wool felt Lucky Charm, an NZ$89·95 piece that can be used as an accessory to one of its bags or as a key holder. All proceeds from Lucky Charm sales will go to Lifewise, an Auckland-based community social development agency dedicated to ending youth homelessness.
   Deadly Ponies’ creative director Liam Bowden said, ‘In New Zealand, our homelessness problem is increasing at an alarming rate. Everyone deserves to have a place they can call home, and this project gives us an opportunity to pitch in and help to house New Zealanders in need.’
   Lifewise’s Victoria Hearn said, ‘Access to housing is a basic human right. Without a safe place to live, it is difficult for young people to access education, gain employment and be independent. I love that Deadly Ponies are acknowledging the very real issue of homelessness in New Zealand and that they’re using their new Pearlies collection to do their bit to help improve outcomes for vulnerable Kiwi youth.’
   Finally, Bird and Knoll has released its Days Like These resort collection for spring–summer 2017, inspired by travels through MĂ©xico, described by the company as one ‘of luxe simplicity with a bohemian edge—perfect for “days like these”.’ There’s no mention of the Matt Monro song ‘On Days Like These’, but the designs convey that same sense of la dolce vita, even if the inspiration is Mexican and not Italian.



Doutzen Kroes and Hunkemöller launch wanderlust-themed bikini collection at Berlin party


NEWS  by Lucire staff/May 1, 2017/1.47



Hunkemöller.co.uk

Hunkemöller and spokeswoman Doutzen Kroes launched Doutzen’s Summer Stories, a bikini range in which the celebrity model has had a hand in designing, at Fabrik 23 in Berlin on April 18.
   Doutzen’s Summer Stories’ collection captures the Zeitgeist perfectly: it’s inspired by the wanderlust theme, or ‘backpacker chic’, as the company calls it. It’s very fitting in an age of international travel and exploration, and their social media documentation. What often appears on social media isn’t a coordinated, styled look, but something thrown together, based on the wearer’s comfort. What if a collection actually offered that look? It’d save hunting around—and that’s likely what Hunkemöller’s banking on for spring–summer 2017. Officially: ‘From beach to festival, the entire collection has been designed so that you can create complete looks whatever your plans are.’
   The Fabrik 23 party was along the same lines, with guests dressed as though they were taking a faraway island holiday, and a Cuban band performed live along with Latin dancers. Kroes joined in with the dancing.
   The collection has details such as fringes, tassles, coins (we love this detail) and shells, with colours in tints of red, blue and pink (entitled Arabian Spice, Deep Lagoon, and Coral Wash respectively), black (Nero) and off-white (Snow White). The collection also includes crochet dresses, tunics and a one-suit. It goes on sale online at hunkemoller.co.uk on May 2, and in stores on May 5.


Doutzen’s Summer Stories launches in Berlin by Lucire






Hunkemöller.co.uk

Teresa Maccapani Missoni teams up with Eloquii on capsule collection


NEWS  by Lucire staff/April 11, 2017/12.44


Designer Teresa Maccapani Missoni, from the famous Italian fashion family, has teamed up with Eloquii on a limited-edition capsule collection.
   Missoni intentionally avoided the family house’s signature stripes, preferring to craft her own direction with the retailer.
   The 24-piece Teresa by Eloquii collection is inspired by memories of the designer’s travels to Sardinia, the African continent and India. There are intricate details, including lurex crochet, hand-beading and embroidery, while silk crĂȘpe and chiffon are among the fabrics used.
   Missoni said in a release, ‘I wanted to excite the Eloquii customer with a collection that is unique yet timeless. I feel strongly about giving this customer choices that stand apart from trends and that instil confidence.’
   Eloquii specializes in fashion for US sizes 12 to 28. The collection is priced from US$75 to US$325, and available online at Eloquii.com.

Wellington’s eclectic, multicultural streetwear label Paris Club launches


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 27, 2017/22.54


Having worked with design teams in London, Hong Kong and Australia, creative director Di returned to Wellington, New Zealand to launch her own streetwear clothing label.
   Paris Club, inspired by youthful living, energy, eclectic fun, and trends in 2017 streetwear, features over 250 styles of printed Ts, hoodies, sweaters and embroidered caps, all at an affordable price.
   Paris Club adds a new twist and an extra dash of energy to existing streetwear styles and brands by taking graphics, typography, and the latest trends and making them more boisterous and energetic, with irony, parody and joyful sarcasm, while being comfortable and functional.
   The I Feel Like Pizza long sleeve T is inspired by Yeezy’s collection but leans towards the love of food. Lazy, Lola Bunny, and the Icecream cap are honest reflections of the millennial’s heart, and throwbacks of vintage childhood cartoons. Minimalist black-and-white designs, featuring the Paris Club slogan, dominate; the label reports that girls seem to have taken the biggest liking on menswear in the collection, and boys on the pinks within the range.
   Inspired by Italian, French and Tokyo street styles, the brand seeks to create diversity and integrate a variety of cultures and their streetwear trends to create an eclectic, multi-cultural, style-lovers’ club.
   Ts retail at NZ$32·99, caps NZ$29, and hoodies from NZ$49, available at www.parisclub.co, with free shipping on domestic orders over NZ$100 and international shipping from NZ$6.







Catching our eye: stand-outs at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards


NEWS  by Chris Park/March 26, 2017/11.52

Thirty finalists were selected to showcase their capsule collections at the 2017 ID Emerging Designer Awards’ runway show. Hosted on a crisp autumn evening in the iconic Dunedin Railway Station, the finalists were chosen by a panel of judges from over 150 different entrants, with designers coming from all over the world.
   Head judge Tanya Carlson said that, although it might sound clichĂ© and make her sound like a broken record, she truly believes that the standard of the submissions continues to rise and we were fortunate to see some of the talent.
   Here were some of the designers which particularly caught our attention.

Marina, Talia Jimenez, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
Winner of the Golden Centre Prize for the Most Commercial Collection




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   First off the runway, the collection featured playful digital prints of overlapping marine animals. Jimenez balanced the vibrant imagery by using mostly pastel colours for the prints and keeping the overall colour palette minimal.
   The collection was inspired by a trip to the Sydney Fish Markets in Piermont, where she experienced an overwhelming cacophony of marine-themed advertisements, overfilled crates of prawns, and mud crabs tied up in string everywhere.
   The prints were featured on PVC overalls faced with cotton worn with merino turtleneck knits, and oversized raincoats, referencing clothing traditionally worn by fishermen. The prints might be fun but the imposition of the prints on top of “fishermen” alludes to the over-exploitation of the marine ecosystem, and our excess indulgence in the spoils of the sea.




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Close-ups from Talia Jimenez’s Marina collection.

The Daily Show, Megan Stewart, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand
NZME and ‘Viva’ Editorial Prize for Best New Zealand Collection







Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   This collection is a sharp critique on the distortionary effect that electronic communication and mass media have on our perception of reality. The distortionary effect is expressed in a very literal sense by the use of distorted imagery from television shows and twisted knits.
   She references digital media and the pixels of a screen by incorporating 90-degree angles and rectangles in her patterns, which further add to the warping when the square clothing twists around the human form.
   The television imagery was selected and distorted by Stewart herself, before being printed onto hessian-like material. The shoulder construction hangs by the elbows, adding to the warping effect on our perception of the clothing.
   The bright playful colours and mesmerizing patterns belie the warning messages that Stewart transmits to the viewer, of how being absorbed into media will warp one’s perception of reality.

XXX, Nehma Vitols, University of Technology, Sydney, NSW
H&J First Prize








Chris Park/The Park Brothers

   Vitols’s collection was ethereal. The pieces looked like they were hovering in front and behind the models rather than being worn by them, and yet it the composite fabric used by Vitols that gave it a stiffness belying the translucency of the wraith-like materials.
   Nehma created this material by taking silk organza and bonding it with stiff cotton organdy, then applying laser-cut Tyvek detailing in white to add visual depth. As the models walked down the runway, the fabric would shimmer and float, as if it had a mind of its own.
   The pieces were cleverly constructed from scraps of fabric left over from creating archetypal garments, held together using a combination of ties made out of leftover strips of fabric, contrast top-stitching and golden zips, which provided some weight and textural contrast to the sheer fabric.
   The complexity of the construction, the innovative materials and the brilliant execution led to Vitols taking out the grand prize at ID for 2017. Congratulations!—Chris Park, Special Correspondent




Chris Park/The Park Brothers

Above: Detail from Nehma Vitols’s collection, XXX, which took first prize at the ID Emerging Designer Awards.

H&M: more Conscious Exclusive details and images featuring Natalia Vodianova, plus first peek at childrenswear


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 24, 2017/17.33

Hennes & Mauritz has released further images from the H&M Conscious Exclusive collections, previewed in Lucire in February.
   A plissĂ© dress made of Bionic, a sustainable polyester made from recycled shoreline waste, was part of the preview, but H&M has revealed more about other designs made from the fabric.
   The company has screen-printed distorted peonies and mimosa on to the fabric for ‘dream-like prints’, while an image of a dreaming woman has been quilted into its jacket.
   Designers have also added sequins to a recycled polyester cocktail dress, while a tuxedo comes in organic silk and Tencel twill. There’s a fishnet bag made from shoreline waste, and earrings from recycled glass and plastic.
   Children’s designs also feature for the first time, with tulle dresses and structured blazers and trousers.
   H&M head of design and creative director Pernilla Wohlfahrt said in a release, ‘For this year’s Conscious Exclusive collection at H&M, we thought not only about the look of the pieces, but also how they feel and sound. It’s a collection to please all our senses, and also our desire to be sustainable in everything we do.’
   â€˜H&M’s Conscious Exclusive collection shows how the best style can be mindful of the planet, to help protect it for the future. It’s such a desirable collection, with pieces made in sustainable materials that you want to wear for seasons to come,’ added model Natalia Vodianova, who fronts the campaign.
   Vodianova also founded Elbi, a digital philanthropy platform connecting users with a charities worldwide. H&M says it will continue to partner with the platform.
   The collections will go on sale in c. 160 stores worldwide, from April 20.







La Vie en Rose launches new bra campaign, focusing on comfort and individual beauty


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 10, 2017/23.43

Canadian brand la Vie en Rose has unveiled a brassiĂšre campaign focused on each woman’s individual beauty, a theme that has been emerging lately in marketing intimate apparel.
   Its rival on the other side of the Atlantic, Triumph, has a campaign recognizing a woman’s many roles, and that she must find the perfect fit. La Vie on Rose, meanwhile, also recognizes that women have different needs but she must have comfort. The execution is very different: the Canadian label has a group of models from different ethnic backgrounds, ages (albeit still young) and bust size, promoting each woman’s confidence.
   La Vie en Rose’s Marie-NoĂ«l Gervais, VP for ecommerce and marketing strategy, said, ‘Nothing makes a woman more beautiful than the confidence she radiates. At la Vie en Rose, we are convinced that a woman can be confident only if she is comfortable first. Our new Confidence through Comfort campaign is not a repositioning, because comfort has always been a priority for la Vie en Rose. It is an evolution of our image, a clear affirmation of who we are, and of our products’ DNA.’
   She added, ‘We have a social media community that shares a lot with us. They want to feel good first, please themselves before anyone else and accept and enjoy who they are and how they look.’
   A new style, the Sweetheart (above), was also launched to coincide with the new campaign. The design offers the wearer a ‘perfect contour’ without extra padding, and offers a moderate cleavage.


The Modist launches retail site for modest fashion, while Getty Images and MuslimGirl.com announce photo library


NEWS  by Lucire staff/March 9, 2017/10.01

The Modist, an online store for modest fashion, opened yesterday, shipping to over 100 countries. The store has a selection of over 75 designers, including Marni, Alberta Ferretti, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou, ensuring a contemporary, fashionable selection. The store is accompanied by an online magazine called The Mod, which includes styling tips and interviews. Says founder Ghizlan Guenez, ‘Our mission is to build a strong sense of purpose to empower a woman’s freedom of choice and to acknowledge how similar women across the world are, despite our diverse backgrounds, cultures and lifestyles—a relevant conversation at this time. We aim to break down preconceived notions while building a community and dialogue that invigorates, informs and celebrates the fashionable, modern, modest woman.’
   The Modist’s COO, Lisa Bridgett, notes that the market potential in the modest fashion segment is projected to reach US$484,000 million by 2019.
   Also in recognition of a more global, inclusive society, MuslimGirl.com and Getty Images announced yesterday a content partnership that aims to convey a more authentic representation of Muslim women. The imagery is far more realistic and positive, battling stereotypes and misconceptions. The photographs feature girls with and without hijabs, and Muslim women in everyday situations at home, with friends and at work.
   â€˜One of the ways I open up my talks is by asking the audience to search Muslim women images on their phone browsers, which is always met with their awe at the unsettling results,’ said Amani Al-Khatahtbeh, founder and editor-in-chief of MuslimGirl.com. ‘I don’t want to be able to use that example anymore, and I could not be prouder to partner with Getty Images on finally taking on such an important and influential task.’

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