Paris editor Lola Saab will have a full report from the ready-to-wear shows during Paris Fashion Week later, but, for now, it’s Collette Dinnigan who has provided us with a comprehensive look at her autumnâwinter 2013â14 range.
Called The Incredible Darkness of Being, Dinnigan tells a story of a woman who lives a ‘quiet albeit stylish life’, with a collection that revels in details and intricacy. She is modest, with plainness and rightness, according to the show notes, but there’s also a ‘deep sexuality’. The colour palette features a base of olive, blues and black, with sky blue and red as highlights.
Materials included wool, of which Dinnigan showed great mastery, leather, French lace, and sequins. There was a strong sense of shape and structure in a luxe collection of separates and dresses.
The collection was shown at the Royal Suite of the HĂŽtel le Meurice and Dinnigan had partnered with Woolmark on the collection.
It is Dinnigan’s first collection since becoming a mother to her four-month-old son, Hunter.
Meanwhile, we have video highlights from other designers at Paris: Lanvin, Issey Miyake, Viktor & Rolf and John Galliano. Scroll down past Dinnigan’s photos for the four videos.
Lucire tends to have a smaller presence in Milano, although we have managed to source three videos from the autumnâwinter 2013â14 collections at fashion week.
Fendi has been going back to its roots, and autumnâwinter 2013â14 is no exception. The abundance of fur (mink and fox) will divide observers, while Karl Lagerfeld kept his silhouette sleek and linear. Emilio Pucci, too, successfully blended past and present under Peter Dundas, who managed to combine the Pucci of the 1960s with a mid-2010s sensibility. There were short skirts, high boots and a lot of fun. Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni, meanwhile, called her collection austere but romantic, though austerity didn’t keep her from putting up plenty of fur as well, alongside wool and silk. There were charcoals and blacks, highlighted with green and red.
Byblos, meanwhile, from which we have images but no video (yet), called its collection ‘Ophelia meets Kate Moss’, a strong pre-RaphaĂ«lite woman complements a Goth heroine for its autumnâwinter 2013â14 vision, which had a sombre mood. Here, too, there were thigh boots mixing with a new romantic look, and jacquard and angora the key fabrics.
As London Fashion Week draws to a close and the circuit moves on to Milano, we have videos from Simone Rocha, Lucas Nascimento, Paul Costelloe, Emilio de la Morena (above), Meadham Kirchhoff, Maria Grachvogel, Roksanda IlinciÄ, Tata Naka, Aminaka Wilmont, Haizhen Wang, and Anya Hindmarch. There is also a day five highlight reel.
Doug Rimingtonâs stunning photographs from London Fashion Week will appear in issue 31 of Lucire in a few monthsâ time, when we run a trend report.
Some regular readers may have noticed that we have slightly fewer articles than usualâbehind the scenes, Nigel Dunn at Xplosiv.ly is working hard shifting content from our old server to a new one.
So while things are going on there, today’s entry is a brief one in terms of words, and we’re going to let the videos do the speaking.
In our London Fashion Week autumnâwinter 2013â14 updates, we conclude our day two coverage with David Koma, House of Holland, Thomas Tait, John Rocha, and a highlight reel.
For day three, collections covered on our live player (see our home page) and highlighted below so far are Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (above), Holly Fulton, Margaret Howell, Emilia Wickstead, Mulberry, Kinder Aggugini, L’Wren Scott, Antipodium, Temperley London, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Unique, Mark Fast, Mary Katrantzou, Jonathan Saunders, Matthew Williamson, and Richard Nicoll.
Photographer Doug Rimington notes that he’s spotted Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour without her trade-mark shades today.
Still to come to our day three coverage are Dominic Jones, Paul Smith, and Marios Schwabâif the videos surface during the small hours, we will put them up, otherwise, we will add them to our day four entry.
Above Issa had a Navajo theme for autumnâwinter 2013â14, with Cara Delevingne opening the show.
From London Fashion Week’s autumnâwinter 2013â14 catwalks in our latest update are Sass & Bide, Central St Martin’s, DAKS, Sister by Sibling, Christopher Raeburn, Clements Ribeiro, Palmer Harding, Orla Kiely, Jasper Conran, Marques Almeida, Julien Macdonald, Todd Lynn, Moschino Cheap & Chic, J. J. S. Lee, and Issa.
Completing our day one videos, Sass & Bide showed a lively collection with a monochrome base, but with metallics and yellows adding extra energy. The Central St Martin’s MA programme’s graduates were on-trend as usual, with Elish Macintosh being the name to watch from London.
DAKS advanced its traditional, well tailored lookâwith draping and layering used to good effectâwith digital florals and metallics, all for what might be deemed a very “British” effect. Sister by Sibling, meanwhile, had Paula Yates as inspiration, with a suitably retro style, with cute berets, pencil skirts, and a fun use of wool. We also noted oversized prints and chunky knits.
Christopher Raeburn went nautical with the Maunsell Sea Forts as his inspiration, with blues and stripes signalling his theme, as well as wool coats with a vertical emphasis and bomber jackets. The collection remains environmentally friendly, which is just what Lucire likes to see.
The husband-and-wife team of Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro used florals, oversized prints and tile patterns to good effect, bringing a fresher take to winter, with dropped waistlines showing the tiles to maximum effect. Their autumnâwinter 2013â14 was bold, and one we’re looking forward to.
Orla Kiely had a delicate, 1960s vibe with a presentation featuring secretaries working at their desks, with short coats, pencil skirts, cardigans, fitted dresses and minis, while cute prints, mustard, pink and red offset the black and grey base shades.
Jasper Conran, too, went back to the 1960s, with an orange catwalk, and looks inspired by Mia Farrow. Shift dresses, panelled skirts, stacked heels and leather pumps featured, while colour-wise, there was plenty of orange to match the catwalk, as well as yellow and magenta for a very bright, uplifting autumnâwinter.
Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida excelled with denim once again, ripped and rough but remaining chic, while the trousers were baggy and dragged on the floor, paired with ponyskin biker jackets.
Julien Macdonald returned with a bang, with Las Vegas as his theme, and plenty of metallics, embellishments, mesh and mini-dresses for a dose of decadent impact. Macdonald’s rock chick is going to have fun this winter, showing a bit of skin while she’s at it.
Todd Lynn also looked to America for inspiration, but this was a pre-World War I source, namely the Gopher Gang, ‘a New York tribe who would jump people for their clothes then send them to a seamstress for alterations’. The result was classy despite the theme suggesting roughness: Lynn instead played with volumes (oversized sleeves), layering and deconstruction (the slashing of fabrics, but in all the right places), but kept the styles wearable.
Moschino Cheap & Chic’s punk girl stuck with black but with studs, prints featuring oversized script, fur and animal prints as contrast. J. J. S. Lee kept with her minimalist theme, with lighter shades and a sense of retrofuturism, one trend we keep forecasting as making a comeback in 2013âso we’re calling Lee particularly on-trend. High collars, asymmetric jackets and tasteful coats that go down toward the knee, with black, white, pink and powder blue keeping autumnâwinter light.
Photographer Doug Rimington, shooting for Lucireâs print and tablet editions, noted on his Facebook that Cara Delevingne had just scooted byâas she went in to Issa and opened the show. The collection featured wide-brimmed fedoras, maxi-dresses and kaftans, with inspiration from the Navajo Americans.
Above An elegant yellow wool coat at PPQ, the last show on the first day of London Fashion Week.
While Doug Rimington shoots some stunning photographs for our print edition, we can bring you a full set of autumnâwinter 2013â14 videos from London Fashion Week. Our videos begin with the day one build-up, through to catwalk shows from ZoĂ« Jordan, Bora Aksu, Fyodor Golan, KTZ, Felder Felder, Jena Theo, Jean-Pierre Braganza, the Headonism installation, hosted by Stephen Jones, PPQ, and a day one highlight reel.
ZoĂ« Jordan was inspired by architectureâthis time the baroque cathedrals of Italyâand a dose of postmodernism, with prints featuring the Duomo’s interior and sculpture, and graphic images of cityscapes and skyscrapers. Bora Aksu went back to the 1920s, with a collection inspired by Rosie and Jenny Dolly, featuring flapper dresses and corsets, and scallop edges and embellishments. His was a largely neutral colour palette initially, but fuchsia and pink brightened up his autumnâwinter 2013â14 vision as the collection progressed.
At the Savoy’s ballroom, Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman of Fyodor Golan were inspired by Luis BuĂ±uel’s film Belle de jour, with complex dresses in silk chiffon and organza featuring pleating, folding and embroidery. The most bizarre moment was a model wearing a huge circular headdress, matching her dress, obscuring her face. KTZ covered faces with its tarot- and clairvoyant-themed collection, too, with knives and horns emerging from black masks, while the duo of Marjan Pejoski and Koji Maruyama made extensive use of leather in the clothes themselves. Twins Annette and Daniela Felder showed beautiful tailoring, especially with its trench coats and jackets, with a palette of burgundy, black and navy.
Jena Theo, the partnership between Jenny Holmes and Dimitris Theocharidis, attracted a large audience to its show at Somerset House, with a vibrant colour palette (orange, pink, green, fuchsia) and an equally vibrant inspiration of Hunter S. Thompson’s gonzo journalism in Hell’s Angels.
Jean-Pierre Braganza’s autumnâwinter 2013â14 collection had a science fiction theme, characterized by geometric and gradient prints, with a base palette of black and grey. PPQ, closing off day one, showed colourful puffball dresses, colour-blocked wool coats, and daring and fun eveningwear, ending everyone’s moods on a high.