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May 21, 2014

Honouring tomorrow’s designers at The Spirit of Otis Fashion

Lola Cristall/12.48

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Kai He

Top Christina Kim and Natalie Salvador. Above Johnny Was.

According to Coco Chanel, ‘Fashion is architecture. It is a matter of proportions.’
   Otis College of Art and Design, founded in 1918, takes its students toward a path of art and ingenuity. It hosts an unforgettable annual black-tie gala where young designers, mentored by renowned names in the industry, take centre-stage.
   On May 3, Otis College of Art and Design hosted its 32nd annual scholarship benefit and fashion show, The Spirit of Otis Fashion, at the Beverly Hilton, raising US$1 million in support of rising talent in the field of art and design. Approximately 1,000 guests came to celebrate fashion. Students dominated the runway with their visions of contemporary appeal, working side by side with well known designers, including AmĂ© Austin Max of Max Studio, Christina Kim of DOSA, David Meister, Isabel and Ruben Toledo of Lane Bryant, Biya Ramar of Eli Levite’s Johnny Was, Jarrett Reynolds and Adrian Nyman of Nike, Robert Tuggle of Eddie Bauer, Todd Oldham, Rod Beattie of Bleu with Erika Kane for Mattel Barbie, Bobbi Garland of Western Costume, and Manu Aldea of Under Armour. Mentors provided each student with a particular assignment that would inspire and spark their originality. The student collections featured sportswear, formal and casual looks for women, men and juniors. Student winners included Natalie Salvador for Ruben and Isabel Toledo and DOSA, Michelle Song for Todd Oldham, Hye Mi Kim for MaxStudio, Adrian Correa for Eddie Bauer, Anissa Irving for Johnny Was, June Lee for Under Armour, Rachel Lee for Nike, Hyun Jun Cho for Barbie, and Arthur Thammavong for David Meister. Thammavong was also announced as the winner of the Designer of the Year award.
   This year’s honorees included the president and CEO of Eddie Bauer, Michael Egeck (presented with the Creative Vision Award), the designer and founder of Max Studio, Leon Max (presented with the Design Legend Award), and creative New York-based duo, Isabel and Ruben Toledo (presented with the Design Innovation Award).—Lola Cristall, Paris editor





Kai He

From top, left to right David Meister and Arthur Thammavong. David Meister. Two designs from DOSA. Johnny Was. The final two, from Max Studios.

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May 14, 2014

At Cannes: Nicole Kidman in Francesco Scognamiglio; and our other highlights

Lucire staff/13.45

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The hijinks of the Festival de Cannes begin today and we’ve already caught actress Nicole Kidman in a Francesco Scognamiglio dress (above) on the Riviera. We’ll have more highlights later today as we begin filing our reports from the world’s most famous film festival.
   In the main part of the Lucire site, don’t forget we’ve been serializing travel editor Stanley Moss’s novel, The Crimson Garter, now up to chapter 16. If you enjoy a good period yarn set in European locales, Crimson is very enjoyable and we will be publishing the final parts shortly. Meanwhile, in the real world, Stanley also goes in search of black truffles in France.
   Emma and Denis Merkas, a real-life Australian couple, believe in massage as a way to bring greater intimacy and trust in relationships. Their new online course, Melt: Massage for Couples, is very accessible, and you can find out more about it in our beauty feature here.
   We have Paris editor Lola Saab’s New York Fashion Week diary, along with her show reports; while publisher Jack Yan talks to Sheryl McPherson of Salisbury Boutique in Dunedin, one of the city’s most cutting-edge fashion retailers.
   Guest correspondent Peter Jobes test-drives the BMW i3, the pioneering electric car from the German brand. And you can order your copy of Lucire issue 32, in print and for tablets, here.

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April 30, 2014

Video: Kate Moss reveals her 2014 Topshop collection at Oxford Street store

Lucire staff/12.10

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Supermodel Kate Moss launched her latest Kate Moss for Topshop collection at the chain’s flagship store on Oxford Street, London.
   Radio One’s Nick Grimshaw MCed the event, with plenty of press and fans waiting outside the store. Grimshaw called Moss an ‘icon’, while shoppers got a glimpse of the new range, which went on sale today at all Topshop stores, at topshop.com, and at Net-Ă -Porter.
   The second collection continues Moss’s glam boho chic style, with use of fringes and beading, while also featuring paisley prints, leather and tulle with shades of blue, turquoise, mint and gold. Moss also forecasts bright, metallic colours for the season. Our favourites include a hand-beaded dress retailing at ÂŁ600 and a skin-tight gown.
   She has reissued an asymmetric yellow dress from her first collection.
   â€˜I have really missed being involved in the design process, and working with the team at Topshop. I am very excited to create a new collection that bears my name. Now more than ever with London being at the forefront of fashion as it feels like I’m back home working with Topshop,’ said Moss in a statement.
   Topshop boss Sir Philip Green said, ‘I am personally thrilled that Kate wanted to come back to Topshop to work with us again. The first time around was such a lot of fun and she has been sorely missed.’
   Kate Moss’s last Topshop collection was in 2011.



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April 14, 2014

Video interview: Alexander Wang on his collaboration with H&M, at the Coachella Music Festival

Lucire staff/22.39

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Above H&M’s Margareta van den Bosch and New York designer Alexander Wang.

Alexander Wang (王性仁) is the next designer to collaborate with Hennes & Mauritz, with the announcement made on Saturday at the Coachella Music Festival in Palm Springs, Calif. Online above is video footage from the event, featuring interviews with Wang, Kate Bosworth and Emmy Rossum, along with highlights from the party.
   Wang is the first American to collaborate with H&M in a series that began in 2004, and has seen team-ups with Karl Lagerfeld, Comme Des Garçons, Sonia Rykiel, Roberto Cavalli. Stella McCartney, and Viktor & Rolf. The collaboration will be called Alexander Wang × H&M.
   A beaming Wang says, ‘It’s such an honour. H&M is a brand with so much creativity and they’ve done something so different with these collaborations, and I am so excited to be a part of it with the 10th year anniversary and also be the first American brand that they have collaborated with. It’s really exciting and we have a lot of stuff that’s going to be new for the collaboration that I’m just really excited to reveal in November.’
   In his release, he notes, ‘I am honoured to be a part of H&M’s designer collaborations. The work with their team is an exciting, fun process. They are very open to push boundaries and to set a platform for creativity. This will be a great way for a wider audience to experience elements of the Alexander Wang brand and lifestyle.’
   Bosworth says, ‘I’m so excited for Alex. I’ve known him for such a long time and been an admirer for just as long, and I just live seeing all the success at the moment. H&M is such an accessible label and there is something so inspirational obviously about Alex, and I’m really excited to see what he brings to the brand.’
   Rossum adds, ‘Because I love Alex and I’ve been waiting for so so long for him to ask me to do anything 
 I was happy that I could do something in advance so I could finally wear something of his. I think it’s awesome [he] is doing something for H&M and making it more accessible.’
   Wang’s label was launched in the 2007 and known for its contrasts. The Alexander Wang × H&M collection will have womenswear and menswear, and the Swedish retailer says he will ‘propose a new take on the lifestyle product offering that goes beyond fashion.’
   Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s creative adviser, says, ‘Alexander Wang is one of the most important voices in fashion today. He understands exactly what people want to wear and does it with an energy and passion that’s infectious. It feels incredible to be collaborating with him this year.’
   The collection will be available in 250 H&M stores worldwide and online, from November 6.

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April 12, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15: the Innovators, Ae’lkemi, Aje

Lucire staff/3.20

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Ultimo TAFE Sydney Institute of Fashion

The Innovators’ show featured the work of several recent graduates from the Ultimo TAFE school of fashion, carefully selected as promising future stars. I am always delighted to see fashion which is, like the name indicates, truly innovative and unspoiled by commercial reality. However, most of the garments were highly wearable.
   Irish graduate Ciara Nolan (above) opened the show with a very colourful collection including a bold use of cuts exposing skin and prints. These kids show promise, as they already demonstrate prowess in material manipulation, with expert draping and pleating seen in several of the collections, as well as innovative ideas—some of the dresses were held by translucent rods joining shoulders and other parts of the garment.

Ae’lkemi
Ae’lkemi was an ethereal show which opened with blood red outfits, followed by black and white. Lacey and translucent gowns sashayed down the runway, my favourites being a silver white gown with delicate vertical frills on the hip area, resembling feathers, and a white poncho worn as a dress with exquisite detailing on the back. See-through lace gowns and sets were present, and beautiful. My only comment would be that totally see-through garments on nude bodies are not really likely to be worn by many women, so I may have liked them even more if nude lining had been applied to the gowns in some strategic areas. By and large, glamorous, delicate, feminine.

Aje
Whenever I am going to see an Aje show, I expect an unforgettable experience and they never fail to deliver and exceed expectations. Aje’s show was an ode to the first woman explorer of Africa—an installation in the Theatre, with a central stage featuring a large safari tent and models languidly standing and sitting around. There were many highly wearable garments and a stand-out black lace trouser and blouse set that I want to own right now. Glamorous and sexy but with the right balance of coverage to make it highly wearable. A green leather jacket also stood out—beautifully cut and tailored. The designers were greeting guests at the back of the tent and they were their usual selves, relaxed, happy, warm, down to earth. The atmosphere was evocative of exactly the story they were trying to tell with this beautiful collection. Viva Aje! And may their dreamy creativity bring us endless collections to love and cherish.

The buzz
Being one of the lucky ones that got to enjoy the Mercedes-Benz Star Lounge, I had the outstanding opportunity to mingle with stylists, designers, celebrities and media. It was refreshing to hear stories from the designers themselves and also meet some of the people in the background who make their collections possible. Phoenix Keating is a warm and unassuming guy who welcomes you to talk and puts you at ease immediately. I had a nice conversation with him and also bumped into celebrity stylists Joshua Heath and Josh Finn (ex-Australia’s Next Top Model). Always great to exchange impressions with them—Josh Heath was, of course, epitomizing the manner in which a trendy male ought to dress, without crossing the Zoolander line of spoof fashion, and Finn was sweetly dressed with a great printed poncho by Camilla, which only Josh, as a guy, can do justice to.
   I was pleased to meet the leather man of fashion here, Juan Valdes, of Chilean decent and leather tailor to celebrities, high-end designers and a collaborator even to the latest Star Wars movies. We joked that South Americans are like God—they are everywhere!—Viviana Pannell

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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Filed under: fashion, Lucire, tendances, trend, TV
April 8, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15, day 2: Michael Lo Sordo, Cameo, Maticevski and others

Lucire staff/14.43

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Michael Lo Sordo, via Instagram


Top Michael Lo Sordo, spring–summer 2014–15. Above Maticevski, spring–summer 2014–15.

Michael Lo Sordo’s show was interesting from the moment you walked in. It was an original idea to install a sculpture on the catwalk to add interest, around which the models weaved as the glided down the catwalk. The mood of the collection was one of effortless, easy but chic living.
   The catwalk opened with a predominantly white line-up, followed by pastel-duck yellow, soft blue, and pink, which was followed by black. A profusion of elegant layering, original lapel shapes, crop tops and combination of metallic over flat, flowing soft silks—my cup of tea. Lo Sordo showed garments that can be worn in comfort whilst looking elegant.
   Cameo’s show was well choreographed and presented a youthful collection with a mix of easy-to-wear garments in white, green and print, followed by dressier garments featuring peplum dresses, interesting panelling, lace and some very nicely tailored jackets.
   Toni Maticevski’s show presented some of the most extraordinary garments of the week so far. To the beat of immensely moody music, models wore sculptural garments, often fitted bodices adjoining skirts reminiscent of 1950s Dior; black, white, and black-and-white print, with bright orange also in the mix. Some of the cuts were highly original with the piĂšce de rĂ©sistance, for me, being a black gown with dropped shoulders and a very unusual, asymmetric neckline and an ample skirt. See-through panelling in some garments was a feature. All in all, an exquisite collection.
   We Are Handsome presented a sweet swimwear collection with some resort wear thrown into the mix in an outdoors setting. Very Sydney.
   Other videos we have today are Gail Sorronda, NLP, Talulah, the WGSN retail edit, Galanni, Serpent and the Swan, Unif.m, and Romance Was Born; and interviews with Lo Sordo, Sorronda, Leroy Nguyen, Ginger & Smart, By Johnny, Ellery, We Are Handsome, Christopher Esber, Phoenix Keating, Talulah, and Strateas Carlucci.—Viviana Pannell

Michael Lo Sordo

Cameo

Maticevski

Gail Sorronda

NLP

Leroy Nguyen interview

Ginger & Smart

By Johnny interview

Ellery interview

We Are Handsome interview

Christopher Esber

Talulah

WGSN retail edit

Galanni

Serpent and the Swan

Unif.m

Romance Was Born

Phoenix Keating interview

Strateas Carlucci interview

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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April 7, 2014

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, spring–summer 2014–15, day 1: Aurelio Costarella, Carla Zampatti, Kahlo

Lucire staff/9.13

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Lucire features the first day of videos from the spring–summer 2014–15 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, including Aurelio Costarella and Carla Zampatti, and interviews with Costarella and Alex Perry.
   An extensive line-up of Hollywood goddess-inspired frocks was presented in Solaris, Aurelio Costarella’s spring–summer 2014–15 show. Costarella, once again, dares to dream and create something utterly different, completely feminine and demonstrative of his mastery of the female form. Superb tailoring was shown in a palette of black and white as well as fuchsia and orange, lime and blue. The collection featured styles that were body-conscious and also floaty: a profusion of soft feathers, beading work and clever cuts. Aurelio Costarella remains my personal favourite and I expect to see him breaking into the international scene in a big way, as he deserves.
   The Kahlo show was pared down, in a black-and-white neutral palette, boxy shapes, metallic, and leather! I am not too sure of the practicality of wearing leather in summer but it looked cool.—Viviana Pannell

Aurelio Costarella interview

Aurelio Costarella

Carla Zampatti

Alex Perry interview

Viviana Pannell is the founder and designer for Basquesse, a Sydney, NSW-based label, and a correspondent for Lucire.

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March 12, 2014

Video: Alessandra AmbrĂłsio, Behati Prinsloo show off Victoria’s Secret Swim for 2014

Lucire staff/10.59

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Victoria’s Secret models Alessandra AmbrĂłsio and Behati Prinsloo have added to the promotions for the brand’s 2014 Swim collection at the London West Hollywood.
   The press day for the swimwear line saw Ambrosio in a white halter-style bikini, while Prinsloo was impressed with her crop-top from the spring–summer 2014 line. ‘The biggest trends for this season [are] definitely high-waisted bottoms, the longer lined torso bikini tops, the crop-top that I’m wearing—I’m in love with it, I think it’s really fun and you can play sport in it, you can go swimming in it,’ she says.
   AmbrĂłsio pointed out, ‘Another big trend is the cut-out. It’s all about the details that season.’
   Eight years separate the models, though one would not know it from the event: mother-of-two Ambrosio is 32; Prinsloo, the fiancĂ©e of Adam Levine, is 24.
   AmbrĂłsio later visited Extra TV to talk to Mario LĂłpez about the collection.

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