Lucire: News


October 7, 2015

It’s fine and dandy: Rembrandt shows a classy, complete spring–summer 2015–16 menswear collection

Alex Barrow/14.07

Rembrandt’s spring–summer 2015–16 collection boasts an array of quirky prints, fine Italian shoes, and an æsthetically pleasing mash-up of modern and traditional in the tailoring of their suits. Since their opening in Wellington in 1946, Rembrandt has cemented its fine tailoring reputation throughout Australia and New Zealand, having opened ten main stores between the two countries, as well as a number of outlet stores. A fourth Auckland store at 41 Shortland Street will open in December.
   This year’s collection puts a modern twist on the British dandy of the nineteenth century with an array of less traditional coloured suit jackets, double-buckled leather shoes (we rate the double monk, made in Italy for Rembrandt), silk ruffle lapel pins, and eccentric printed shirts, ties and pocket squares.
   The company has identified marsala as the colour of the year, with it appearing through its accessories’ range as well as its Bryan dinner jacket.
   Rembrandt’s Wayward Heir line, targeting a younger wearer, has straight lines and narrow fits for the season.
   Rembrandt’s forte lies in dressing for black tie events, making the wearer of their suits stand out. With the option to purchase off the rack, order a made-to-measure suit, or hire one for an event, Rembrandt has its customers’ suit needs covered to a high standard. Furthermore, the menswear company also offers high-quality clothing for everyday casual wear.
   With the motto ‘bespoke is in our blood’, the history of Rembrandt draws back to the world wars of the early twentieth century where immigrants from Holland came to New Zealand, specializing in tailoring. With an opportunity on the horizon the company was started and have spent almost seventy years building tailoring knowledge and expertise to create the reputation they have today of fine craftsmanship.
   With the reputable work and class of Rembrandt, the company has partnered up with the Wellington Phoenix, South Sydney Rabbitohs and the New Zealand All Whites in officially tailoring the teams. Rembrandt gives back to the fashion community by proudly co-sponsoring the Fashion and Textile award of the ECC Student Craft–Design Award for 2015.—Alex Barrow

September 17, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring-summer 2016, Day 7 videos: Hugo Boss, Michael Kors, Anna Sui

Alex Barrow/12.24

With Jason Wu as the creative director of Hugo Boss womenswear, his creative flair was evident in this season’s New York Fashion Week. Using long sleek garments to accentuate and celebrate the female form, the collection was made up of fairly plain garments, each with its own sense of ambiance. These included feathered skirts, eye-catching prints, various necklines and an array of fabrics. Crisp colours allowed for the creative features to shine through, accentuating the beauty of subtlety in fashion.
   The packed audience at Michael Kors’s show indicates how celebrated and anticipated this collection was this season. A noticeable feature resonating throughout his pieces were red and blue poppies, featuring either on prints or as physical sewn-on features. Another common style was the box pleat, presented in flaps on both skirts and dresses. Kors’s inspiration drew from ‘earthly elegance’, clothes that have a down-to-earth appeal while still maintaining a classy presence.
   Anna Sui’s collection drew heavily from a tropical Hawaiian theme this year, captured in both the clothes and the elaborate set. However, she incorporated various undertones, most surprisingly a radical punk sub-theme with harsh black tones, tattoo-style sleeves, pin-up patches on bomber jackets and sequinned tassels. The collection altered dramatically and unpredictably throughout the show, yet it maintained the Hawaiian essence.
   Also on the official calendar for day seven were Suno, Thomas Wylde, Stella Nolasco, Naeem Khan, Bibhu Mohapatra, J. Crew, Greg Lauren and Demoo Parkchoonmoo.—Alex Barrow

Hugo Boss Women’s

Michael Kors

Anna Sui


Thomas Wylde

Naeem Khan

Bibhu Mohapatra

Greg Lauren

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September 15, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 6 videos: Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Diesel Black Gold

Alex Barrow/22.22

Not one to shy away from obscure designs, Vera Wang experiments with lingerie paired with heavy overcoats to open her collection this year. Bandeau-style bras are a recurring feature, teamed with various high-waist garments. Wang uses mostly heavy black for each garment; however, in various outfits a burst of glitter features, breaking up the heaviness of the collection. As the show develops blush coral contrasts starkly with the previous pieces; these pieces are a welcome adjustment. Wang’s inspiration is drawn from the sensual Belle du Jour, which can be seen in the independent, strongly feminine styles of the garments
   The Diesel Black Gold collection was essentially inspired by the heavy rock–biker style with black-and-white cottons vamped up with various radical features. Heavy leathers, silver studs, cut-outs and crisp square cuts were refashioned time and time again throughout the show. Diesel used these iconic rocker staples and made them their own—an impressive feat considering the popularity these styles have had over the last few years.
   With the upcoming first anniversary of the passing of the label’s cherished namesake, the designers of Oscar de la Renta had a lot to prove with their first New York Fashion Week show without the founder’s expert oversight. However, they went over and above with the spring–summer 2016 collection. Drawing inspiration from classical Sicilian elegance, the floral and feminine collection radiates with an air of class and creative originality, a trait made the company’s own by de la Renta.
   Also showing on day six were Badgley Mischka, Angel Sanchez, Dennis Basso, Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet, Carmen Marc Valvo, and the Art Institutes, among others.—Alex Barrow

Vera Wang

Diesel Black Gold

Oscar de la Renta

Badgley Mischka

Angel Sanchez

Dennis Basso

Carmen Marc Valvo

The Art Institutes

September 14, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 5 videos: Tommy Hilfiger, Jeremy Scott, 3·1 Phillip Lim

Alex Barrow/23.15

Jeremy Scott’s collection was brilliantly designed to transport the audience to the fast-lane fashion lifestyles of ’60s mods. With puffy curled hair dos, bright radical colours and prints, popping make-up, shapeless mini-dresses, and Latex- and sequin-saturated dresses, Scott no doubt achieved the essence of the blast from the past. The collection is a colourful combination of pop art and the fun and flirty free love of the ’sixties, demonstrating the quirky creativity Jeremy Scott’s designs have become notorious for.
   Phillip Lim’s show grabbed attention with the stage layout. With a large square catwalk interrupted by mountainous dirt pyramids seemingly placed arbitrarily, Lim is clearly looking to portray a wholly ĂŚsthetic appeal. With both soft and deep khakis resonating throughout the 3¡1 Phillip Lim spring–summer 2016 collection’s designs, the adventurous tone is further accentuated by his safari-style wide trousers and shorts, heavy coats and fluid leather jackets, paired with long head ribbons. The set and the designs are perfectly compatible, setting the scene for Lim’s inspiration.
   Tommy Hilfiger’s collection, based on beachy Carribean themes, became an all-encompassing event with the set design depicting a fiery sunset and a water expanse inset in the catwalk. This collection presented mostly colourful swimwear and garments boasting bold tropical prints. Long bohemian maxi dresses were common, as well as colourful stripes typical of Tommy Hilfiger womenswear.
   Also on the day five calendar were Lela Rose, Taoray Wang, Reem Acra, Libertine and Vivienne Tam. Lola Cristall will have her detailed wrap-up from New York Fashion Week later.—Alex Barrow

Jeremy Scott

3¡1 Phillip Lim

Tommy Hilfiger

Lela Rose

Taoray Wang

Reem Acra


Vivienne Tam

September 13, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 4 videos: Derek Lam, Diane von Fürstenberg, Georgine

Alex Barrow/22.59

Georgine’s collection takes mainstream styles of clothing and shakes them up with an abstract element: blue wash denim suits, complete silk office wear, metallic arm warmers, and optical illusion dresses paired with mismatching garments. Forest green is a focal point of the collection as well as lavender hues, sunshine yellow and cherry red. The obscure themes are accented by heavy bright eye shadows that complement the quirky collection.
   Diane von FĂźrstenberg has always been a creator of clothing with bold prints, a passion which doesn’t falter with this season’s NYFW collection, ‘The idea is always to celebrate women to be individual so that they dare to be themselves; be a woman they want to be.’ With this inspiration, her collection dabbles in textured gold fabrics, embroidered tulle, Grecian-style gowns and garments saturated in popping colours and prints. This collection plays with the elements of fashion and appeals to the adventurous ĂŚsthetic of the urban woman.
   Derek Lam drew inspiration from ’70s-esque fashion, evident in his elaborate, loose flared trousers, wide bell sleeves, crisp shirts and knitted vests, as well as the typical suede and tassels. Lam’s traditional focus on the feminine ideal is evident in this collection; however, he has clearly emphasized a particular moody theme through his dark choice of colour palette.
   Others showing on day four with videos below included Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, and Prabal Gurung.—Alex Barrow


Diane von FĂźrstenberg

Derek Lam

Fashion Shenzhen

Public School

Lie Sangbong

Jenny Packham

Ground Zero

Prabal Gurung

September 12, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 3 videos: Son Jung Wan, Hervé Léger, Rebecca Minkoff, Monique Lhuillier

Alex Barrow/23.50

Son Jung Wan’s spring–summer 2016 collection was made up of severely structured pieces with a low-key colour palette. Metallic features stood out in the forms of colour-contrasting footwear, metallic zippers or merely singular stripe features on the garments. As the show developed, the initial crisp white of the clothing developed in colour, using tones of bubble-gum pink, dusky rose and grape, while still maintaining the stark structures of the garments.
   With a nautical theme in this season’s NYFW collection, Lacoste used red white and blue in their sporty style designs. With a resonating urban theme evident in their oversized shirts, sailor shorts and visa caps, the target audience indicated a youthful sailor style.
   Celebrating the feminine figure, the HervĂŠ LĂŠger collection is filled with short, form-fitting dresses which are defined with extensive pattern work over a typically white palette. Patterns include floral grids, metallic work and beading, all used to flatter the female figure.
   Other notable designers which presented their collections on Day 3 were Noon by Noor, Rebecca Minkoff, Mara Hoffman, Francesca Liberatore, Monique Lhuillier, Misha Nonoo, Banana Republic and Alexander Wang, as well as several others.—Alex Barrow

Son Jung Wan


HervĂŠ LĂŠger

Noon by Noor

Rebecca Minkoff

Mara Hoffman

Francesca Liberatore

Monique Lhuillier

September 11, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 2 videos: Givenchy, Jason Wu, Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller, Zang Toi

Alex Barrow/23.14

Givenchy captures the trademark flair that has been evident through previous years of work. At this year’s spring–summer 2016 fashion show, inspiration for the collection was drawn from the delicate mystery of nightwear. Black and white silks with laced camisole-like features were teamed with heavy thick robes to capture the essence of the evening. As the collection developed, the styles took a radical turn towards elaborate, exotic pieces teamed with equally exaggerated headdresses, typical of Givenchy models. In menswear, heavy suits were contrasted with unusual cropped cutout shirts. Throughout the show the black and white them resonated.
   Jason Wu’s collection seems to lack any direct channel of inspiration with different fabrics and styles in his spring–summer 2016 collection. With a noticeable colour palette of red and teal, Wu’s collection experiments with chiffon, lace, tulle, knits, silks and leathers to create a wide appealing ĂŚsthetic collection. With the occasional collaboration of contrasting fabrics in one outfit, Wu’s abilities are no doubt in good form for this year’s fashion week.
   Betsey Johnson’s collection is in a complete league of its own, with its kooky carnival meets punks meets rainbow radical appeal. Elaborate tulle dresses with colour-popping accessories and contrasting patterns make up the collection. Johnson’s vision is clearly one of playing with fashion and testing the boundaries.
   Other designers which showed their collections on Day 2 included Zimmerman, Wes Gordon, Kate Spade, Custo Barcelona, Yigal AzrouĂŤl, Pamella Roland, Nicole Miller, CG, Zang Toi, Idan Cohen, Karigam, and Kye.—Alex Barrow


Jason Wu

Betsey Johnson

Idan Cohen



Nicole Miller

Zang Toi

September 10, 2015

New York Fashion Week spring–summer 2016, Day 1 videos: BCBG, Erin Fetherston, Tadashi Shoji

Alex Barrow/23.16

BCBG Max Azria presented their collection on Day 1 of New York Fashion Week with a hippy flair of contrasting textures, colours, and prints. With a trending theme of bucket hats and chunky leg warmers, teamed with clashing layers of various clothes, the disheveled look was surprisingly effective.
   Erin Fetherston’s collection encompassed the epitome of romance and femininity. With floaty fabrics and pastel hues, as well as downplayed bohemian patterns, the collection played with the romance of ’40s fashion and the flower power of the ’60s and ’70s. The overarching tone however suggested innocence, playfulness and romance.
   Tadashi Shoji’s designs, too, place heavy emphasis on the beauty of floaty fabric. This collection focuses on the fabrics rather than necessarily on the shape of those wearing them. Embroidered silks, textured fabrics and long floral feature gowns are dominant in the collection. Romantic long pastel pieces tend to be a focus point, made ever more beautiful by the minimal styled hair and natural make-up of the models.
   Other designers which presented their collections on Day 1 were Tome, Desigual, Nicholas K, Ohne Titel and Kids Rock.—Alex Barrow


Erin Fetherston

Tadashi Shoji



Nicholas K

Ohne Titel

Kids Rock

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