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May 19, 2015

News in brief: Taylor Swift’s Tiger ring; Otis College’s 33rd fashion show; Swiss retails limited-edition Partime watch

Lola Cristall/14.03

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Jason Merritt

One of our favourite items from Carrera y Carrera, the Tiger ring, appeared on the finger of Taylor Swift at the Billboard Music Awards at the weekend. The Madrid-based jewellery company noted that Swift, presenting her new music video for ‘Bad Blood’, wore the ring in white gold, smoky quartz and diamonds from the Bestiario collection with her white cut-out jumpsuit. Madonna, Jennifer López, and Olivia Palermo have chosen the Tiger ring in the past.
   Otis College of Art and Design’s 33rd annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show at the Beverly Hilton Hotel was a lavish escape, revolving around the theme, A Celebration of Water. This year’s honorees include Carlos Alberini, the chief executive of Lucky Brand, designer Trina Turk, and Gary Schoenfeld, the president and CEO of PacSun. Mentors included: Bob Mackie, Trina Turk, Zaid Affas, Joe McCarty for Lane Bryant, Liliana Casabal for Morgane Le Fay, Mary Jo Bruno, Anne Cole, Isobella & Chloe, Heather Brown for PacSun, Ryan Keenan for Quiksilver, Alan Hardy for DC, Kesha Pomeroy for Roxy, and Urban Outfitters. Year after year, the event reflects the students’ hard work and approach to the fashion industry while being guided by a number of professional designers. Student Jessica Choi was recognized as Designer of the Year. Guests gathered to watch 100 ensembles take centre-stage.
   Finally, Swiss International Airlines is retailing a special Partime watch from June as part of its duty-free range this summer. Available only on board Swiss flights, the Partime watch is a limited edition, joining the 11 other models already offered. The complete collection will also be shown at the China Watch & Clock Fair in Shenzhen from June 25 to 28. (A video of the Partime’s movement can be seen at the bottom of this article.)—Lola Cristall, Paris editor, and Lucire staff





















Kai He; courtesy Otis College of Art and Design

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Sonam Kapoor, Nina Agdal, Eva Longoria, Andie MacDowell, Weronica Zalazinska hit Cannes’ red carpet on day 6

Lucire staff/8.17

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Pascal Le Segretain


Bruno Bebert


Gisela Schober

Sonam Kapoor was arguably the highest-profile actress (when you factor in our audience numbers) walking the red carpet at the première of Inside Out on Monday, wearing a sorbet-coloured haute couture feathered gown from Elie Saab. At the weekend, the actress had unveiled Michelin star chef Vikas Khanna’s book, Utsav: a Culinary Epic of Indian Festivals, providing the book with added international exposure.
   Eva Longoria, meanwhile, took to the Inside Out red carpet with a silver Gabriela Cadena dress with sheer side panels and a train, earning plenty of coverage as she attended on behalf of L’Oréal Paris (which announced that her look did, once again, feature the Superstar Mascara—ideal for Cannes—and the Infaillible 24h Matte foundation in Sand, the Super Liner Smokissime, and, for the lips, the Infaillible Mega Gloss in 502, Hold Me Close).
   Fellow L’Oréal signature face Andie MacDowell, wore a coral Elie Saab gown with plunging neckline, commemorating 30 years of working with the French cosmetics’ giant.
   It’s a hard act to follow for many in MacDowell’s footsteps who also appeared on day six. Weronica Zalazinska, who proves that you can blog and get L’Oréal to notice you at age 19, was only fitted for her gown in Warszawa on Friday, but made her Cannes red-carpet début on Monday. Turkish actresses Cansu Dere (in a fitted white suit and matching cape) and Fahriye Evcen (also in white, but a column dress) also appeared for the beauty brand, for their own markets.
   Spanish model Eugenia Silva chose a black Dior gown, having de Grisogono’s Boule earrings, bracelet and ring set off against her dress, Sara Sampaio wore Vionnet spring–summer 2014 with Avakian Diamond Links bracelet and Diamond Riviera earrings, while Nina Agdal went for an aquatic theme with her light aqua Gyunel dress with gauze train, complemented by de Grisogono Gypsy earrings.
















Pascal Le Segretain; Andreas Rentz; Venturelli; Gisela Schober


L’Oréal Paris Turkey

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May 18, 2015

Olivier Rousteing, Kendall Jenner and Jourdan Dunn promote H&M–Balmain collaboration

Lucire staff/9.06

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Top Jourdan Dunn, Olivier Rousteing and Kendall Jenner for H&M and Balmain. Above Olivier Rousteing. Below left Ann-Sofie Johansson of H&M.

Hennes & Mauritz’s next designer collaboration, on sale November 5, is with Balmain of Paris.
   Founded by Pierre Balmain after World War II, the veritable house rode a high soon after launch, being the choice of Hollywood stars. Now under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing, Balmain has recaptured its “must-have” nature among celebrities, and Rousteing himself, as H&M points out, headed to the Billboard Music Awards’ red carpet last night in Las Vegas, Nevada to join friends and fans Kendall Jenner and Jourdan Dunn, who are promoting the campaign alongside him.
   Using the hashtag #HMBalmaination, the two brands are signalling their collaboration on social media. ‘I want to talk to my generation: this is my main aim as a designer. H&M allows me the unique possibility of bringing everyone into the world of Balmain, get a piece of the dream and create a global #HMBalmaination: a movement of togetherness, fuelled on a hashtag. The collaboration felt extremely natural to me: H&M is a brand that everybody connects to. It calls for unity, and I am all for it,’ said Rousteing in a release.
   â€˜We are excited to have Balmain as our guest designer at H&M and create a truly involving experience for everybody,’ said Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative adviser. ‘With its mix of couture spirit and streetwear attitude, Balmain owns a unique style, at once opulent and direct, sensual and energetic. It is also closely linked to the show business and music worlds, which adds another element of surprise.’
   The collection will hit 250 stores worldwide and online at hm.com.

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May 12, 2015

Full Harper’s Bazaar archive joins those of Vogue and WWD, digitalized by ProQuest

Lucire staff/15.10

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With the entire Vogue US archive already available to researchers, it was a matter of time before its rival, Harper’s Bazaar, followed.
   ProQuest has announced that it is creating the first digital archive of the magazine, from 1867 to the latest issue. It joins ProQuest’s earlier digitalizations of Vogue and Women’s Wear Daily. The archives are known for their ease of search as well as their high-resolution imagery.
   â€˜We know scholars and students are using more than journals and books to conduct their research,’ said ProQuest’s senior director of product management for humanities, Stephen Brooks. ‘Digitization programmes such as this one with Harper’s Bazaar unlock valuable, historical primary sources from the confines of print, making them easy to access, text mine and use within researchers’ workflows.’
   Harper’s Bazaar, originally Harper’s Bazar, was the US’s first fashion magazine. Carmel Snow, Diana Vreeland, Elizabeth Tilberis, Alexey Brodovitch, Man Ray, Richard Avedon, Patrick Demarchelier, Andy Warhol, Daisy Fellowes, Gloria Guinness, and Eleanor Hoyt Brainerd have all featured prominently in the magazine since its inception.

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May 6, 2015

Reese Witherspoon launches her own US south-inspired fashion and lifestyle venture, Draper James

Lucire staff/23.34

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Academy Award-winning actress Reese Witherspoon is behind a new southern US-inspired retail brand, Draper James, appealing to those who would like their fashion, accessories and home décor with a touch of Dixie.
   Witherspoon has named the brand after her grandparents, Dorothea Draper and William James Witherspoon, who are said to be her greatest influences.
   Witherspoon, who grew up in Nashville, Tenn., recently moved back there, and says the brand pays tribute to her own past. It’s not retro-focused, either: Witherspoon is intent that Draper James reflects what the US south is today.
   Fashion items are feminine, bright and playful, and include dresses and separates; accessories include jewellery and handbags, and home items include stationery, manchester and cocktail napkins.
   She will work with southern artisans and items will be produced in southern factories, says the company.
   â€˜Draper James was built on the backdrop of Reese’s southern past which is both timely and relevant. Not only is the south having a cultural surge, but it has a rich ecosystem that we tapped into on every level,’ says Draper James CEO, Andrea Hyde.
   The ecommerce site launches first at draperjames.com, with a physical store in Nashville to come. Instagram and Twitter presences are up, and the company is using the #DraperJames hashtag.

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May 5, 2015

Video: who wore what at the 2015 Met Gala? Beyoncé, FKA Twigs, Rihanna stand out

Lucire staff/11.11

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Taylor Hill


Jamie McCarthy

Who wore what at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute 2015 Gala, benefiting the CFDA–Vogue Fashion Fund, with the theme, China: through the Looking Glass?
   We spotted Jessica Hart in a red Valentino Chinoiserie-style velvet dress, really getting into the spirit of the theme, accessorized with Carrera y Carrera jewellery; Kate Beckinsale made a similar choice for her jewels, and opted for a golden gown from Diane von Furstenberg and heels from Christian Louboutin.
   In our videos below, Sarah Jessica Parker surprised with a massive Philip Treacy custom headdress and a gown with a long train, designed by her in collaboration with Hennes & Mauritz. She wasn’t alone in donning head pieces: Tabitha Simmons (in Dolce & Gabbana) and Selena Gomez (in Vera Wang) went for them, too.
   Katie Holmes, sporting a fashionable bob, meanwhile, wore a sparkling, backless, beaded Zac Posen gown, with rose embroidery on the train. Kerry Washington, accompanied by her husband Nnamdi Asomugha, wore a satin Prada gown with a long train and floral embroidery. Another celebrity couple was Robert Pattinson and FKA Twigs—one of Lucire’s news-makers as we summed up 2014—with Twigs wearing a high-slit gown with a nude print, complete with male genitalia, while Pattinson opted for something more conservative.
   Beyoncé was late to the event but eventually emerged wearing a very revealing, sparkling Givenchy gown, designed by Riccardo Tisci, that was barely there, inspired by I Dream of Jeannie—which also explains the ponytail. Another celebrity followed by the celeb titles, Kim Kardashian, wore a form-fitting white dress designed by Peter Dundas, from his first collection for Roberto Cavalli.
   Miley Cyrus’s hair also gained attention with its new look, with blue and green tints, while she wore a black studded Alexander Wang gown with large cut-outs, accessorized with an Ana Khouri ear cuff. Rihanna arrived later at the event, wearing a startling yellow Guo Pei robe with a train so large it required three assistants.
   The last video features Sofía Vergara in a Grecian-inspired Marchesa gown, and her fiancé Joe Manganiello. Vergara wrote on Instagram, ‘Gracias! So excited to be going to the Met Gala … We r ready!!’

Sarah Jessica Parker

Katie Holmes

Kerry Washington

Robert Pattinson and FKA Twigs

Beyoncé

Kim Kardashian

Miley Cyrus

Rihanna

Sofía Vergara and Joe Manganiello

Summary

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May 1, 2015

It’s full circle for style.com: back to its origins in fashion retail

Jack Yan/14.17

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Top Earlier today, attempting to get into Style.com meant a virus warning—the only trace of this curiosity is in the web history. Above Style.com is back, with a note that it will be transforming into an e-tail site.

If there’s one constant in fashion, it’s change. The other one, which we notice thanks to a number of our team being well schooled on fashion history, is that trends always return, albeit in modified form. Both have come into play with Style.com, which announced earlier this week that it would become an ecommerce site.
   When Lucire started, we linked to style.com, but it wasn’t in our fashion magazines’ directory. It was, instead, in our shopping guide.
   In 2000, that all changed, and it began appearing under our fashion magazine links, where it was until today. An attempt to log in to the home page was met by a virus warning, preventing us from going further. We figured that this was part of the transformation of the website as it readied itself for the next era, discouraging people from peering. However, having had these warnings splashed across our own pages two years ago courtesy of Google’s faulty bot, when our site was in fact clean, there was a part of us taking it with a grain of salt. In either case, given the impending change, it was probably the right time to remove the link.
   This evening, Style.com is back and virus-free, with an overlay graphic announcing that the website will be changing. Plenty of our media colleagues have analysed the closure over the past week: the Murdoch Press has gossiped about how the layoffs were announced, WWD suggests editor-in-chief Dirk Standen didn’t know it was coming, based on rumours, while Fashionista puts it all into context by analysing just where ecommerce is within the fashion sector, and that content should be the answer over clothing sales.
   What is interesting is no one that we’ve spotted has mentioned how the style.com domain name (we’ve carefully noted it in lowercase there) has effectively come full circle. Perhaps we really are in the age of Wikipedia-based research, as this fact is not mentioned there at all.
   When Lucire launched in 1997, style.com was the website for Express Style, later more prominently, and simply, branded Express, a US fashion retailer. It’s not hard to imagine that had Express remained at the URL, it would have become an e-tailer; it has, after all, made the move into ecommerce at its present home, express.com. Like a fashion trend that comes back two decades later, style.com has gone back to its roots: by the autumn it’ll be e-tailing.
   The omission from the above paragraph is the sale of the style.com domain name by Express to Condé Nast in the late 1990s. We never completely understood the need to start a new brand to be the US home of Vogue and W; for many  years, typing vogue.com into the browser in the US would take one automatically to Style.com. Then, somewhere along the line, Condé Nast decided that vogue.com should be the online home of Vogue after all.
   But having made the decision to forge ahead with Style.com, Condé Nast did it with a lot of resources, and took its site to number one among print fashion magazine web presences in a remarkably short space of time. It devoted plenty of resources to it, and it’s thanks to Style.com that certain things that were once frowned upon—e.g. showing off catwalk collections after the show—became acceptable. Designers used to enjoy the fact that we and Elle US delayed online coverage, the belief being that the delay ensured that pirates could not copy their designs and beat them to the high street.
   To get itself known, Condé Nast bought advertising at fashion websites that were better known, including this one (yes, in 2000 that really was the case), at a time when online advertising cost considerably more than it does today.
   The muscle from the best known name in fashion publishing changed the way the media interacted with readers. Designers figured that if they wanted coverage, they would have to accept that their work would be shown nearly instantly. We became used to that idea, so much so that we now have to show the catwalk videos live in the 2010s.
   In some ways, the change makes sense: we’re talking about an Alexa rank in the 4,000s, which translates to plenty of traffic. The name is known, and most shoppers will make some association with Vogue. The official word is that Franck Zayan, formerly head of ecommerce for Galeries Lafayette, will helm the revised website, and he’s reporting that brands are coming on board rapidly.
   One shouldn’t mourn the loss of Style.com as a fashion news portal, since the content we’re all used to is bound to appear at Vogue. And in all the years we had it in our magazines’ directory, it was listed under our Vogue entry anyway. We await the new site to see what Condé Nast will do with it, and it may yet return to the spot where it once was in the 20th century, in the shopping guide.—Jack Yan, Publisher

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April 30, 2015

BCBG Max Azria releases Magnum Belgian Chocolate Wrap, fashion with a chocolate scent

Lucire staff/11.46

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Top The BCBG Max Azria for Magnum Belgian Chocolate Wrap. Above BCBG Max Azria chief creative officer Lubov Azria modelling the wrap.

Unilever’s Magnum already established itself as a fashionable brand, teaming up years ago with Karl Lagerfeld and Rachel Bilson. This time, Magnum has teamed up with BCBG Max Azria with their BCBG Max Azria for Magnum Belgian Chocolate Wrap, a wrap that gives off a scent that is reminiscent of the experience of enjoying a Magnum ice-cream bar.
   Harvard scientist and scent inventor David Edwards and master perfumer Christope Laudamiel worked on the scent with Unilever.
   Using Onotes (styled oNotes by its makers), a scent platform created by Edwards and his team, the wrap’s scent has been called ‘decadent’ by Unilever, and marks the first time Onotes has been used in a fashion accessory.
   Unveiled Wednesday at the BCBG flagship store in New York, the wrap features a swirling brown and caramel pattern—which itself already conveys the Magnum ice-cream—and is made of suede and viscose.
   â€˜In fashion, we focus so much on sight and touch,’ said Lubov Azria, chief creative officer of BCBG Max Azria, in the release. ‘The design of the wrap was inspired by the smooth feel of chocolate and the visual of a melting Magnum Double Caramel ice-cream bar. But to find a way to incorporate the aroma as well means the BCBG Max Azria for Magnum Belgian Chocolate Wrap has taken fashion beyond the realm of the visual and tactile, giving everyone a new and innovative way to experience fashion as a true feast of the senses.’

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