Luke Calder

Sylver & Shackel celebrated its first anniversary at Willis York in Wellington. Its jewellery collection featured in a beautiful installation at the Wellington salon, and Lucire loved its boudoir feel.
   Founders Sylvie Poupard-Gould and Joanna Shackel find their materials from vintage finds: they visit auction houses to source, rescuing antique pieces, then repurpose the jewellery, blending precious and non-precious materials into the designs. The designs are timeless, reflected in the promotional photography from Luke Calder (of LCP in Wellington), with models from Kirsty Bunny Management.
   Both Poupard-Gould and Shackel have travelled extensively, giving them both an international insight into design and style.
   The new offerings are divided into five sub-collections: In-temporal (with vintage components), Les Classiques (timeless design), Collective ID (stamped and branded), Rocco (channelling an inner rock chick), and Ltd. Edition (made-to-order custom pieces).
   The event was supported by Broken Shed vodka and San Pellegrino, and fans of the label ensured that Sylver & Shackel did rapid business with its latest collection that evening.
   Poupard-Gould has an additional connection to this magazine: she named it in 1997.—Sopheak Seng, Fashion Editor, and Lucire staff

Luke Calder

This week’s Instagram pics include two of Lucire’s own, publisher Jack Yan and fashion editor Sopheak Seng. Sopheak shows his excitement for seeing his fabulous styling on a banner for the local Wellington Cup Carnival, while Jack is with the designer of Mardle, Shiana Weir, at an event hosted by her label and TwoWorlds, Design Cartel, Desiree, and Nevada Brown.
   In other Kiwi news, X-Factor runner-up Benny Tipene promotes his new single coming out on December 6: in a very attractive manner I might add. Meanwhile Lorde and David Little attend the New Zealand Music Awards both wearing New Zealand’s own, Zambesi.
   British pop-sensation, Rita Ora, celebrates her 23rd birthday in style with a truly scrumptious-looking cake. Over in LA, fashion-blogging superstar Rumi Neely is seen in not one, but two Australian labels. She wears the Vampire Skirt by Friend of Mine and Light Ceramic top by Bec & Bridge—doesn’t she look fabulous?
   Current it-girl Jennifer Lawrence, fondly known here at the office as J-Law, promotes her massive new blockbuster and the second in the terrific Hunger Games series, The Hunger Games: Catching Fire. Now showing at cinemas, it’s a definite must-see. Last but not least, Doutzen Kroes posts a drool-worthy shot of herself in sexy Christmas themed lingerie: included purely due to its extreme hotness.—Anna Deans

Above Dita von Teese’s Von Follies lingerie range’s Sophisticat collection arrives at Farmers this week.

New Zealand department store group Farmers will retail Sophisticat, the latest lingerie collection, in opulent satin and lace, from Dita von Teese’s Von Follies range, this week.
   The balconette bra retails for NZ$59·99, the bikini brief for NZ$34·99, the G-string for NZ$29·99, and the suspender for $59·99.
   Von Teese launched her lingerie collection in Australia in February 2012, selling via Target.
   Living Nature, meanwhile, is extending its product line more aggressively in November. It has released its manuka honey gel, using certified natural preservatives, fragrances and ingredients. It’s ideal for everything from cuts and graces and insect bites to fungal infections and minor sunburn, and retails for NZ$19·50 for 10 ml or NZ$32 for 50 ml.
   There are soothing properties in Living Nature’s Nourishing Body Wash, free from sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), which can irritate the skin and eyes. Instead, it uses plant nutrients, including botanicals, and works on sensitive skin, suitable even for babies and toddlers and those with eczema or dermatitis, says the company. It retails for NZ$30 for 200 ml.
   Its third entry is the Slate mineral eyeshadow (RRP NZ$20), ideal for creating this season’s smoky eye look. It uses natural mineral colour, and is free of synthetic chemicals and ingredients. The ingredients, including the minerals, are all sustainably sourced. The minerals help protect the eye from UV rays.
   The packaging is recyclable, and users can opt for individual shades for Living Nature’s eye-shadow compacts (RRP NZ$10)—each houses two shades or, if the applicator is removed, four.
   Living Nature skin care and cosmetics’ products are certified natural by BDIH Germany and listed as a Safe Cosmetics Champion on the Skin Deep Cosmetics’ Database.
   Our friends at Tory & KO. have opened a second store on the ground floor of the Old Bank Arcade, Wellington, New Zealand along with a luscious website. ‘We are delighted to showcase our jewellery in a stylish, new retail environment while still retaining our bespoke jewellery boutique store upstairs,’ says co-director Kirstin O’Brien. ‘Our Wellington-based jewellery workshop creates our signature jewellery for the Pretty, Charm and Stella collections and we have recently brought in a beautiful collection from Paris called Les Nereides, which is presented in our new store.’
   Meanwhile, we’re looking forward to the British Fashion Awards on December 2. David Walliams will host this year, with nominees including Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, Sarah Burton, Christopher Kane, and Tom Ford. Lucire will have post-event coverage.

Above Dita von Teese’s Sophisticat collection begins at NZ$29·99 at Farmers.

Above Living Nature pushes new product for November 2013.

Above Tory & KO. débuts a stunning new website along with a new retail store within the Old Bank Arcade.

Through a sea of black-and-white and sheer chiffon came three stand-outs at the 2013 Massey graduate show, Launch. Sean Kelly’s desert-island-themed collection really stood out, as did the closing designers, Lucilla Gray and her crisp neoprene collection, and Soontariya Utto, with her refined, elegant gowns.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Kelly’s collection, inspired by an island, consisted of layered, tailored menswear in linen-looking khaki-greens and whites. This collection combines exceptional new ideas and design lines with impeccable tailoring. Quirky accessories also featured, such as a fishing-net backpack. Thick, brown leather hats, sandals and other leather items were specifically made for the collection to immaculate standards. Emphasizing impact and wearability through clever styling, Kelly has really hit the nail on the head here.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   Gray’s collection created similar impact but for completely different reasons. The colour palette of fresh electric blue mixed with fluro-pink and the whitest white stood out from the dull colours of some other collections. Structured elements were innovatively moulded from neoprene to create out-of-this-world curved shapes where printed chiffon overlays bikini-like undergarments. This fresh collection really caught my eye for all the right reasons. We especially loved the curved, structural sleeve shapes and the tactile print in the white neoprene jacket. Lucille’s collection reminds me of a different take on Nicolas Ghesquière’s use of neoprene at Balenciaga and the Australian designers’ obsession. Perhaps this is the New Zealand response to the comeback of neoprene, which is no longer restricted to the un-shapely wetsuit.

Matthew Beveridge/Matthew Beveridge Photography

   From the opening outfit of Utto’s collection, there was something special in the making. The precision cutting and the exceptional tailoring to the couture-like nature of her garments all spoke of a refined elegance, which can so often be lost in ready-to-wear clothes. For someone so young, her taste level far exceeds her years. The moulded hips of her ball gowns matched her jewellery, which was made by hand, bringing a tactile old-world feel. The collection was sewn by hand, bringing it to life. Although crafted all in black, it was still evident that a lot of attention to detail had gone into this collection, from the pin-tucking on the structure corsets and bodices, to the cut of detailing and ostrich feather plumage that appeared on collars and peplums. This was a collection made for the red carpet and was a true show-stopper.—Anna Deans and Sopheak Seng, Fashion Editor

Mark Tantrum

Nespresso and Wellington seem to be natural bedfellows: Wellingtonians pride themselves on a decent cup, while Nespresso aims to bring the café experience into the home with its high-pressure machines as well as its gourmet coffees. And while Wellingtonians love supporting their local brands, Nespresso’s new upscale boutique on Lambton Quay, which opened last week, appeals to those who want not only to replicate the coffee professionals make, but customize their blend exactly to their tastes.
   The 21 Nespresso grands crus include a coffee for every palate, while the range of coffee machines seems to grow regularly with more innovations.
   Hosted by Guillaume Chesneau, Nespresso’s country manager who travelled from Auckland, and in the presence of HE the Swiss Ambassador Mario Weichelt Krupski, the Prime Minister, the Rt Hon John Key, Emirates Team New Zealand skipper Dean Barker, and actor–director Taika Waititi, the launch of the Wellington boutique was suitably classy and in line with the swish gadgetry Nespresso is known for. Wellington personalities such as famed restaurateur Martin Bosley, Museum Art Hotel proprietor Chris Parkin, Yellow Brick Road’s Rachel Taulelei, and The Wellingtonista editor Joanna McLeod were present, too, while Lucire was represented by fashion editor Sopheak Seng and publisher Jack Yan. Warren Maxwell (Ngāi Tūhoe) performed live music.
   The PM relayed in his speech that of the Key household’s two coffee machines—one very expensive, professional one, and the consumer-market Nespresso—it was the latter that was still working, before noting that he would support the grands crus in the blue packaging in advance of the 2014 General Election.
   Waititi, meanwhile, was responsible for the artwork outside the store, made out of Nespresso capsules (it can be seen on this fan site on Tumblr).
   The boutique is located at 215–29 Lambton Quay, Wellington, New Zealand.

Mark Tantrum

While some designers strive to create an ideal vision of the perfect female customer, others choose to let their customer use fashion to define their own definition of perfection. Annah Stretton, now easing her way into to the US and other countries’ markets via her jaunty online boutiques, fits the second category and does it with the flair of one of her famously fitted jackets. I discovered this on my 2010 visit to Wellington when in town to cover the Cocktail World Cup (of 42 Below vodka notoriety).
   Soon after I purchased my first Annah-designed investment-piece jacket (which still turns fashionista heads here in LA three years on), Lucire publisher Jack Yan filled me in on her other accomplishments in publishing and public speaking. In 2013, she succeeded in getting my attention again, and not just because of all of the curve flattering frocks and expanded number of shops. Shortly after I arrived in Wellington, on the heels of covering the Food and Wine Classic (FAWK) in Hawke’s Bay, a cartoon incarnation of Annah peeked up at me from one of the stacks at the Lucire offices.
   Rock the Boat (her third effort), content-wise, is focused on a core readership of success-driven New Zealand women. The business leaders and movers-and-shakers, therefore, will be more recognizable to that group. However, from the perspective of an outsider (an American woman) looking in, this book is still a fun read with a lot of very positive messages and life lessons. Although it is obvious why she’s billed as the New Zealand answer to Oprah, one has to appreciate that she’s made sure her own larger-than-life persona does not overshadow the input and impact made by her “guest stars” (including the equally vibrant Cuisine publisher Ray McVinnie, who MCed several FAWK events, as well as World of Wearable Art founder Dame Suzie Moncrieff, and Saatchi & Saatchi CEO Kevin Roberts). This, in turn, turns readers not familiar with New Zealand personality, culture and industry to read on, learn and be genuinely inspired.
   From a design standpoint, Rock the Boat, like her spring–summer 2013–14 collection of frocks, tempts a reader to pick it up and try some things on for size. Though æsthetically some of this year’s dresses and this year’s book chapters may be a little too busy visually, other visually appealing chapters will fit and feel just right for an individual reader. Then again, that’s the beauty of the new generation of eclectic, self-help and motivational books aiming for a wide readership. Not every idea or message will be a fit, but chances are if you shop around—especially on this Stretton-led cruise—you will get some divine inspiration when charting your own course.—Elyse Glickman, US West Coast Editor

The Royal New Zealand Ballet’s Tower Tutus on Tour, which débuted at the St James Theatre in Wellington last night, offers something for everyone—especially younger ballet-goers, who will enjoy the second half.
   As the intent of Tutus on Tour is to showcase the RNZB in different centres, especially those that might not have had a chance to experience New Zealand’s world-class ballet company first-hand, there is a simple set, with five vignettes in the first half.
   Flower Festival at Genzano, ‘Charlie’ from Frenzy, Little Improvisations, Through to You and the wedding pas de deux from Don Quixote form the first, with the second ballet the highlight. Set to Split Enz’s ‘Charlie’ and danced by Maree White and Loughlan Prior on the first night, the contemporary routine was choreographed by Mark Baldwin, and impressed with the style and movement shifting naturally.
   The pas de deux from Don Quixote was the other “grown-up” highlight, with leaps and fouettés concluding the first half.
   The second half is definitely for the younger audience. Peter and the Wolf, narrated by Te Radar, is more literal, and in case an audience member couldn’t work out the interpretation, the narrator stepped in to explain what was going on. There were humorous moments for adults, too—watch for the wolf attack on the duck—and the audience was definitely entertained by a different, modern take on the Prokofiev ballet, choreographed by Catherine Eddy and Brendan Bradshaw.
   Tutus on Tour succeeds in its aim of sharing the Royal New Zealand Ballet with the country—as is its intent. There are 46 centres to go after Wellington, with the tour concluding December 5. More details are at the RNZB’s website, with prices starting at NZ$25.—Jack Yan, Publisher

The Royal New Zealand Ballet is on tour again! Tower Tutus On Tour sets out to remind the nation why we have one of the most highly rated ballet companies in the world. Their “tiki tour” of our fine country shows the Royal New Zealand Ballet going back to its roots with snippets of the classics we love.
   Going to over 47 locations nationwide, help our prestigious ballet company celebrate its 60th birthday with a “blast from the past.” Tower Tutus On Tour is a compilation of highlights from the RNZB’s repertory. This includes performances from Flower Festival at Genzano, Ihi FrENZy, Through to You, Little Improvisations and Don Quixote. The highlight being a fresh and scintillating version of Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf.  Tower Tutus combines classics we love, mixed with the passion we want to see in shows such as secret life of a dancer. This tour is such a undertaking that the company need to split in two so they can cover the whole country, which means they are no doubt going to be in an area near you.
   The Royal New Zealand Ballet aims to celebrate all its history in one dazzling show. This is an occasion not to be missed for all ballet and music lovers, as well as anyone who likes to see a fantastic show. Show your support for the RNZB with tickets from just $25. Booking is available online through Ticketek. The tour begins October 23 and finishes December 4.—Anna Deans