ET AGAIN this season, four of New Zealand's best-known designers came forth to show their spring�summer 2000 collections at London Fashion Week. Well received six months ago, Nom D, World, Zambesi and Karen Walker were back to take on the Brits again.
On a brilliantly sunny autumn day in London, the New Zealanders, showing at the West Lawn Tent at the Natural History Museum, were quietly confident and, in some ways, delivered collections quite different from what was expected.
Nom D First to show, Nom D, with a strong focus on the knitwear that has made their name. With a subdued palette of cream, olive and black, highlighted with red, fine knits came in the shape of sleek poncho tops, panelled funnel necks with back hook fastenings, and long, lined tunics with the back as important as the front in many items. Skirts were long, tube-like with clever back pleats to give movement and swing without bulk, in fine knits or papery-looking fabrics.
World: Transformer Collection World produced a varied collection, ranging from simple black items with quirky "hair" highlights in bright colours, forming sleeves, cuffs, scarves and a fake ponytail; and a similar line of black dresses with three-dimensional neon-coloured net shapes, attached at hip level for pockets or as a built-in backpack; through to shiny stretch tops and tweedy skirts with kitsch spots and organic tops and skirts in crushed organza, and woven stainless steel, believed to be the first time such a material has been used for clothing. The cylindrical crushed top and its sisters with neck, wrist and waist detail were ultimately the most beautiful part of the collection.
ET AGAIN this season, four of New Zealand's best-known designers came forth to show their spring�summer 2000 collections at London Fashion Week. Well received six months ago, Nom D, World, Zambesi and Karen Walker were back to take on the Brits again.
