Montréal's NAFFEM affirms fur's universal appeal

by Susan Kelly

Photographed by Bruno Petrozza

HAT do women really want? A great fur coat, of course!’ quipped Betty Balaila, NAFFEM president and business director for superstar fur designer Zuki. She was just one of the more than 800 industry and fashion luminaries present at the kick-off gala for the 2002 edition of NAFFEM (North American Fur and Fashion Expo Montréal) last April 28.
   ‘Just as MiFur in Milan defines European fur fashion and the Hong Kong Fur Show leads the way for Asia, the Montréal NAFFEM is the most important North American show,’ said Balaila.
   And the event embodied the essence of fur fashion trends. Yes, there was a harkening to a time when icons of feminine beauty invariably trod the red carpet in mink or ermine that swept down to their high heels. But there’s a very forward attitude, as if constantly poised to launch the next best thing.
   Champagne flowed as the 20th anniversary of the fair was feted in a setting of old-time opulence. A 1937 photo of Vivien Leigh by Rawlings graced the programme while the hangar-like Palais des Congrès hall was transformed into a sumptuous fin de siècle theatre.
   Local fashion icon Iona Monahan was given the Maurice Memorial Award, ‘in recognition of her outstanding contributions to the encouragement of creativity in fur fashion.’ The fashion editor emeritus of Montréal’s English-language newspaper previously received the Order of Canada in 1987.
   And lest we forget, the roots of this industry emanate from the women of the First Nations. ‘The theme, A Tribute to Women, is so apropos,’ said Ethel Blondin-Andrew, a native Canadian and secretary of state for youth and training. ‘Especially when you think of all the outstanding women involved in this industry. In Canada both First Nations and Inuit women were the ones who first cured furs and used them to make clothing and other items. It’s a tradition that has remained so vital to our people.’
   But the night was mostly about fashion. The Tribute to Women show featured a montage of photographs of beautiful women throughout history. Then selected works from 25 collections paraded the runway, a sampling of the more than 200 launched at the show. It was all ably staged by Montréal’s redoubtable Hans Koechling of The Image Is.
   The stalwarts of Canadian fur design were represented. Paula Lishman’s signature knit fur went urban chic in shades of grey, slate and black. D’Arcy Moses, one-time urban designer who returned to the Mackenzie Valley in search of his Cree roots, masterfully combined native and contemporary design. In addition to his own collection, the ever-brilliant Zuki turned out an all-chinchilla one for Canchilla Associates and sportswear for FurWorks Canada.
   Zuki favoured a more subdued palette than the eye-bending brights of last season. This time it was pastels or shades of soft brown and ivory. There’s also far less of his signature intarsia, opting as did many of his competitors for even more inventive shearing, grooving patterns into the beaver pelts. ‘Most of my collection is reversible,’ he said. ‘It’s a big trend and exciting to work with.’

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Top left: D’Arcy Moses combines native and contemporary. Top right: Landi. Centre left and bottom left: Zuki, with a collection that is largely reversible.