continued

This page: Snapshots of Eze village. Centre: The off-road leading to the Gallimard perfumery. Third photograph: The bridge leading out of Eze—a way to catch villains sneaking out gold Napoléons.
 

   The price of parking in Monaco, or, for that matter, Monte-Carlo, is not extreme. It is surprising how affordable the principality remains, even if the police are well-dressed and look like they had stepped out of GQ. Taking a stroll from the yacht club toward Monte-Carlo, I was reminded why the Côté d'Azur attracts people. It's not snobbery or the weather but the way the light plays with the sea here; it is more intense, reflecting off the nature and the architecture more playfully to evoke slightly different shades. But yes, the people are well-dressed; it is an offence to be otherwise, as a sign warning bathers about ugly briefs and Monaco law stated near Monte-Carlo.
   The area around the Casino will be instantly recognizable to anyone who has seen films set here, even those made 30 years ago. The restaurants have not changed; all that seems to shift in any way are the cars, changing to keep up with model years. A Rolls-Royce and a few Porsches and a Ferrari were parked outside the Casino, backs to the steps and primed for when a high-roller decided to depart. The gardens outside were blossoming with the reddest flowers while there was additional serenity from the sound of water at the Fontaine aux Oiseaux; the Hôtel de Paris bustling as one would expect during the summer, with older customers who decided to either leave gambling to the young ones or, in the case of some, leave their wives for young ones.
   After a lengthy promenade in the Riviera sunlight during which I walked from the hills near Monte-Carlo and wandered back into the city, I headed to Le Florestan, a comfortable restaurant on the rue Princesse Florestine, for lunch. The food—the pavé saumon San Danièle, but along the Mediterranean coast seafood is too good to turn down—and the manner were excellent and I had no problems leaving a 20 per cent service for the staff. A reasonably priced lunch for Monaco, at under €25, which included three drinks (orangina, mineral water and coffee).
   I completed several postcards for friends, mailing what I could from the Monaco post office, leaving one more for Eze, my next stop along the wonderful Moyenne Corniche. I never bored of driving it and with the French highway patrol as tolerant of driving practice along one of the country's best roads as it is, there is much to be said for the route.
   Eze itself remains beautiful, even if it profits a trifle more from the tourist trade. Spending a penny costs 30 cents. The queue at the Poste is huge: only one person was on duty that day was we rushed to send packages and postcards before closing time at 4·30 p.m.
   Atop the mediæval village perched on a cliff is the château, 430 m above the Mediterranean, from where one can spy Italy and St Tropez. Head back toward the village and across the road is the Gallimard parfumerie, which has been here for a quarter of a millennium. This is the spot for the pilgrimage of les nez, the perfume capital of the world from where one can buy the products as well as soap and flowers.
   But time did not wait. I would next find that turn-off to the Alpine route, then come back toward the Corniche, before visiting Cannes and St Raphaël. The dreaded tourist feel would be far worse in Cannes. • Jack Yan

Part Two: ‘Finding tranquillity’ (November 11)

Visit Roger Moore's official site
Visit Tony Curtis Virtual Art Gallery
Visit The Persuaders fan site, endorsed by Messrs Curtis and Moore
Visit The Morning After: the official Persuaders/ITC appreciation society

Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.