
CONTINUED
Cynthia Steffe has a different take on retro
and based her collection on the images of photographer David Bailey’s
book, The Birth of the Cool. The photographs of Brigitte
Bardot and Jean Shrimpton inspired the looks of young beauties unaware
of their sensuality.
In this sophisticated collection, Steffe brings
ladylike touches to her fitted silhouettes, and as a nod to casual,
satin bomber jackets, floral printed denim, cargo capris and jogging
pants. The corset belt, flat shoes, hand-crochet and macramé
inserts, and an important zipper element, add to the look. The single
shoulder-length fringed earring emphasize the sideswept hairdo which
seemed to recall the ’40s with the ’50s and the ’60s in inventive
new ways.
No one has gone further from the retro style than
Y & Kei, fusing Asian philosophy and European avant-garde, targeting
the young and hip. Relaxed, unstructured, unbuttoned and unironed,
the Korean husband and wife team, Hanii ‘Y’ Yoon and Gene ‘Kei’
Kang have taken their designs to new heights and lengths.
The collection is sculptural in presentation,
statues stepping out of niches modelling clothes enhanced by dramatic
accessories: helmets, single sleeves, handcrafted necklaces, belts
and unique bags and shoes.
Corky Davidov is special correspondent for Lucire.
Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire.

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Y and Kei springsummer 2003. TOP
LEFT: Printed silk tube top, oversized nylon athletic
pant, Mao hat with embroidery and ribbon. TOP
RIGHT: Silk and rayon shirt with floral crochet motif, distressed
leather belt, cotton trousers. ABOVE
LEFT: Hand-sprayed sleeveless top, cotton Tae-Kwon-Do trouser
with antique coin and brass belt. ABOVE
CENTRE: Norigæ bustier with lace, suede patchwork
cotton trousers with jersey, rouched skirt. ABOVE
RIGHT: Jersey V-neck top, Norigæ cotton miniskirt with
dyed cotton ruffle. LEFT COLUMN, LEFT:
Knit tank top with embroidered and suede patchwork, cargo trousers
in pigment cotton, mother-of-pearl jewelled armpiece in silk chiffon,
netting and lace, suede belt with metal flower buckle. LEFT
COLUMN, RIGHT: Quilt tunic in jersey with flower motif, five
pocket capri pant, rubber Tae-Kwon-Do helmet.
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