Yeohlee, too, went with stripes in her collection,
though her design rationale was very different. Starting with the
American arts and crafts' movementwhere simplicity, forthright
materials and workmanship rule the dayYeohlee transplanted
its ideas into modern design.
This approach deserves some examination. The arts
and crafts' movement was about championing the individual craftsman,
so how is that replicated in an age of mass production and machinery?
The answer seems to be in the design and the choice
of fabrics. While Yeohlee doesn't aim to replicate the movement's
products exactly, there are woven and loomed yarns of cotton, linen,
silk, mohair and alpaca. Colours are purposely kept muted.
Yeohlee's spring 2003 collection was not old materials
only. Lycra blends make their way into the designs, for example.
As with Perry Ellis, there is an exploration of
the past, brought bang up to date for the present season. However,
Yeohlee manages to make her work slightly futuristic as well. She
recognizes that modern customers might not have the opportunity
to change between day and evening clothes, so her designs suit both
periods. Construction is championed along with practicalityanother
2000s touch that arguably has its roots in the arts and crafts'
movement but also in eastern design (hardly surprising, given her
Malaysian roots).
We were delighted that Yeohlee Teng stayed true
to showing a collection that generated some useful discourse about
fashion. For those who understand design movementswhether
it is the arts and crafts' movement, the Bauhaus insistence that
design should not be for the rich only, or the universality of natural
proportionYeohlee has delivered once again this season.
Emilio
Cavallini
Perry Ellis
Yeohlee
LEFT, TOP ROW: Emilio
Cavallinis gym-wear. CENTRE ROW,
LEFT: Emilio Cavallini spring 2003, demonstrating that this
collection would be unforgiving to all but the leanest, fittest
figures. CENTRE ROW, RIGHT: Lycra
has been blended into this coat design from Yeohlee. BOTTOM
ROW: Yeohlee spring 2003, emphasizing the natural, arts-and-crafts
approach to her designs this season.
|