This range has
been the one of the most impressive to show at LOréal
New Zealand Fashion Week, and will,
without a doubt, follow through internationally to make a mark for
Nom Dand Dunedinglobally
this article as originally laid out, from the LucireLNZFW
New Zealand Fashion Week official site
DOESNT SURPRISE us that
Nom D has headed to New York Fashion Weekit was one of the
best at the first autumnwinter collections of the calendar
in New Zealand last October.
New Zealand label joins the likes of Rebecca Taylor in having a
show during New York Fashion Week, a late entry into the Fashion
Calendar published in that city. We hope itll be as well
received there as it was Down Under.
The final show for Day Two of LOréal
New Zealand Fashion Week was that of this Dunedin-based label. Held
at the unlikely venue of the Auckland Showgrounds in Greenlane,
a catwalk had been created on the stadium floor, and the audience
seated in tiered grandstands either side of the catwalk.
Designer Margi Robertson introduced the audience
to her autumnwinter 2004 range with a medley of brightly coloured
track wear, grounded with basic white and black hoodies, track pants
and singlet tops. Striped leggings and long sleeve tops were layered
under the raw-edged garments in the boldbut harmonialcombination
of oranges, maroon and teal. The ensembles were finished with
a classic white Converse trainer.
The range developed further into a primarily black
and white medley. While still incorporating the stripes, Robertson
styled the range further with the addition of low-slung suspenders
hanging from shorts, trousers and skirts. She appeared to draw inspiration
from the late 70searly 80s independent music
scene by incorporating the idea of pop badges, again in basic blacks
and whites. As at Zambesi, this was a family affair, with Chris
and Margi Robertsons son having worked on some of the prints,
notably the 45 rpm records.
Badges were dispersed throughout the range and
added on the lapels of jackets and fitted tops. The range also gave
reference to the British mod rockers of the late 60s and early
70s, with crisp styling with slim fits and traditional knit
shapes such as plunging V necklines and slim-fitted
polo-necks. Other features referencing this ideal were the presence
of oversized self-covered buttons.
Slim-legged trousers were a common feature throughout
the collection, often contrasted with bulkier upper-body garments.
Fullness was often attributed to the upper arm with oversized
puffed sleeves attached to long slim fitted sleeves in knitwear,
the medium in which Nom D is most commonly associated with. The
continual use of the bold black and white stripes maintained a consistent
look and feel to the range.
An element of semi-deconstruction was also present
as Robertson included sharply tailored waistcoats, jackets and trousers.
She added the technical insides of other garments, such as the inside
of tailored trousers, including pocket bags and waist banding to
the lower hem of a waistcoat. Sharp blazer jackets were slashed
in half and worn almost as an accessory, again laden with pop badges,
branded with peace signs and other social comments.
Robertson also embraced the slogan Dont
Shoot, emblazoned across printed tees and tops, appearing
almost as a political comment of the present day.
This range has been the one of the most impressive
to show at LOréal New Zealand Fashion Week, and will,
without a doubt, follow through internationally to make a mark
for Nom Dand Dunedinglobally.
Alice Goulter is senior Melbourne correspondent