CARLSON is one of Dunedin, New Zealands most recognized
names. She made the decision to not show last year at LOréal
New Zealand Fashion Week, preferring to concentrate on her
business without the added stress of a major catwalk show.
Consequently, both the press and the public alike
will get their first glimpse of Carlsons autumnwinter
2004 range at Vodafone ID Dunedin
The collection, entitled Wallﬂower,
is unashamedly nostalgic, celebrating the art of dress-up. It additionally
celebrates the anticipation of the event itselfso if this
is Carlsons prelude, then next season could be something even
A glimpse at the collection shows that Carlson has
featured suiting, sportswear and her signature silk organza
and Chantilly lace slips. Suiting the autumnwinter trend,
she has a fine wool hoodie, bomber jacket and a duffle coat. Inspiration
comes from a range of eras, from the 1930s to the 1960s, the latter
exemplified by a car coat.
Her colour palette celebrates nature: her press
release states, ocean, shell, sea foam, oil and rain through
to caper, tamarillo, flame, kelp, lemongrass, pearl and ember.
The names of the garmentsthe Depression
dress, for instanceshow a brooding, moodier winter from Carlson.
A plaid kilt is her Ode to Dunedin, a tribute to Carlsons
Its a fitting name. Carlson told Lucire
that she grew up in Dunedin and as we lunched, she was recognized
She studied economics and art at school and admits
that she was not multi-disciplined. By 13 or 14, she
had decided on her fashion career. Her concern, however, was that
a designer cant be fantastically on form al the time.
Its like asking a chef to prepare 65 new pieces each season.
Another surprise admission from one of the countrys
most successful designers followed: she waits for inspiration and
believes that she is undisciplined, though not to the
point of being a procrastinator.
But this season looks to be a winner for Carlsonagain.
The construction of the pieces remains very classical, with some
trademark twists. Most importantly, they tap into a cooler
winter, one that seems particularly on the pulse of the Zeitgeist
as an uncertain post-Oscars mood hits New Zealand. The public
will be able to judge for itself at Vodafone ID
Dunedin Fashion Weekend as the designs hit the catwalk on Saturday,
Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.
Vodafone ID Dunedin Fashion Weekend official site
TOP: Matisse skirt.
CENTRE LEFT: Chantilly dress. CENTRE
RIGHT: Depression dress. ABOVE: