Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada’s menswear collection was inspired by contemporary
and pop art, and artists such as the Russian–American Mark Rothko.
Ruiz de la Prada has mixed 1930s and 1940s images with modern ones,
and showed one of the most vibrantly coloured menswear lines. Multi-coloured
checks appeared on jackets and trousers, while a startling green
velveteen suit recalled one of the "in" colours for spring
in New York. Stars, circles and irregular
stripes also appeared, as a Ruiz de la Prada trademark.
Josep Font was a favourite at Lucire among the early shows,
because of the clothes’ exquisite style and luxury. Sticking to
black as a base colour, Font off-set the garments with dashes of
reds, tobacco browns and greens.
The clothes feature contrasting materials, as
seems to be prevalent this season: coats with felt stitching over
silk crêpe dresses, and artificial leather against devoré
Visible seams were another feature, while the
trend of 2004—extra detailing—continues for autumn at Josep Font.
The label itself identified laces, trompe l’œil bows and
lapel kerchiefs. Roses and other flower shapes featured prominently,
stressing the collection’s femininity. Jewelled touches appeared,
as did Font’s bird motifs, extravagantly constructed in one case
with stars and studs.
ABOVE AND BOTTOM FAR
LEFT: Josep Font. LEFT AND
BELOW LEFT: Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. BELOW
RIGHT: David Valls.