TO PINPOINT the appeal of British fashion, Kay Barron, staff
writer at The Face, is clear. Britain is known as a
breeding-ground for some of the fashion world's biggest stars. The
humour and irreverence that makes us push creative boundaries is
London Fashion Week autumnwinter 20045
was the embodiment of this sentiment and, over the course of six
days, those hardy enough to withstand the batteringinflicted
by late nights, early mornings, high heels and hangoversbore
witness to an array of spectacles, both innovative and eccentric.
If David Lynch were to conceive a fashion show,
Boudicca's disorientated dominatrixes, clad in high-tech tailored
garments and staggering through a muddy, moonlit field would be
it. The theatrics continued at the labyrinthine Astoria Theatre
where Robert Cary-Williams presented a typically off-the-wall extravaganza
that featured calipered dancers, firework-distressed chiffon dresses,
and a leather harness complete with swishing horse tail.
Other whimsies of note included Anne Sofie Backs
Permatanned models, Steven Jones‚ fabulously outsized berets for
Gibo and Red or Dead's Save our Allotments‚ a relaunch show at which
the audience was seated according to vegetable row.
This was also the season of impressive, one-to-watch‚
débuts. Hailed as the new Pucci, printmeister Jonathan Saunders
embellished body conscious 80s silhouettes with kaleidoscopic
shards of burnt orange, fuchsia and metallic foils. Fellow St Martin's
protégé, Giles Deacon, garnered column inches for
his highly acclaimed Disco Jacobean Fantasy‚ by securing the services
of Misses Elson, Herzigova and Auermann.
Most notable among the trends, which included
monochrome palettes, constricted tailoring and old-fashioned glamour,
was the enthusiastic use of fur both in the collections. An ambitious
precedent was set early in the week at Clements Ribeiro's wittily
bohemian show during which booming lyrics asserted, Im
mad about animals but raccoons and cats become a little boring.
Just as well perhaps, but their Christian Loboutin booties adorned
with Saga mink twisted tassels and a sheared mink skirt were anything
but dull, especially when paired with Pearly Queen-style frock coats,
top hats and tartan stockings.
wittily bohemian show featured booming lyrics asserting, ‘I’m mad
about animals but raccoons and cats become a little boring’
TOP ROW: Rafael
Lopez, with silverfox tail on belt at right. CENTRE
LEFT: Robert Cary-Williams. CENTRE
RIGHT: Alastair Carr. ABOVE: