The sportswear influence on Maria Gambina—one of the three higher-profile
Portuguese imports at the show—was fairly strong, with an Olympic-inspired
collection. The emphasis is more on sport than the Olympics, with
patches mimicking medals reading ‘Old Winners’. The circular theme
denoted not only medals, but records, too, while the stripes conveyed
a sense of old record shops.
T-shirts and V-neck jerseys featured in this collection,
along with several bomber jackets and windbreakers. Elastics, ribbons
and felts were used liberally along with some high-tech fabrics.
Colours, meanwhile, were typically sporty: blues, reds and yellows
complemented black and white.
This was a competent, well edited collection from
Gambina, which will secure some staple sales come autumn. Her striking
red concertina skirts may have been for show, but they certainly
added pizazz to the latter part of her collection. Deconstruction?
TOP LEFT AND LEFT:
Maria Gambina. BELOW AND BELOW LEFT:
Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira celebrated twentieth-century fashion
icons from the worlds of cinema, music, theatre and the arts in
general. However, he didn’t make this so obvious that we were looking
at replicas of Catherine Deneuve or Audrey Hepburn. Instead, the
icons served as starting-points in a collection that was in fact
about ‘the art of dressing well’. This was, put simply, an elegant
collection in black and white, for both men and women. The dresses
weren’t about the red carpet: they were about making the wearer
feel special, which they accomplished no end.
Vieira continues to be based in S. João
da Madeira, Portugal, his birth town.
Miguel Vieira celebrated twentieth-century
fashion icons from the worlds of cinema, music, theatre and the