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Joma García i Gisbert

FashionLucire fall-winter 2004

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The strongest female figures in history show the way forward for twenty-first-century women. As Mireya Ruiz wrote in her notes: ‘the arms are different, but the battle continues’

Mireya Ruiz
Mireya Ruiz focused on the spirit of women in her latest collection, moving away from the urban London glam rock scene to mediæval Europe. Her theory is that the strongest female figures in history show the way forward for twenty-first-century women, showing a collection that was regal and powerful. As she wrote in her notes in Spanish: ‘the arms are different, but the battle continues.’

Anke Schlöder
Anke Schlöder took audiences into the forest with her autumn–winter 2004–5 collection. With woollen bird caps for her models, her designs were reminiscent of woodland creatures. Her ‘Forest Indians’, as her collection was called, did have a slightly native American feel, in terms of natural colours and allusions to the wildflowers in abundant, pre-colonial forests.
   She presented three forests: winter, rain and dark forest. Appliqués were used to great effect in the first forest. Her second rain forest section mixed coarse textures with shiny fabrics, while adding ornamental details. Finally, the dark forest has what Schlöder called ‘Rainbow lights’: the bird caps became multi-coloured like parrots, while gold and red appliqué and fabrics brightened up the dark base colours of her dresses and knitted tops.

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TOP RIGHT AND SECOND ROW: Mireya Ruiz. ABOVE AND REMAINING PHOTOGRAPHS: Anke Schlõder.


 

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