The strongest female ﬁgures
in history show the way forward for twenty-ﬁrst-century women.
As Mireya Ruiz wrote in her notes: ‘the arms are different, but
the battle continues’
Mireya Ruiz focused on the spirit of women in her latest collection,
moving away from the urban London glam rock scene to mediæval
Europe. Her theory is that the strongest female figures in history
show the way forward for twenty-first-century women, showing a collection
that was regal and powerful. As she wrote in her notes in Spanish:
‘the arms are different, but the battle continues.’
Anke Schlöder took audiences into the forest with her autumn–winter
2004–5 collection. With woollen bird caps for her models, her designs
were reminiscent of woodland creatures. Her ‘Forest Indians’, as
her collection was called, did have a slightly native American feel,
in terms of natural colours and allusions to the wildflowers in
abundant, pre-colonial forests.
She presented three forests: winter, rain and
dark forest. Appliqués were used to great effect in the first
forest. Her second rain forest section mixed coarse textures with
shiny fabrics, while adding ornamental details. Finally, the dark
forest has what Schlöder called ‘Rainbow lights’: the bird
caps became multi-coloured like parrots, while gold and red appliqué
and fabrics brightened up the dark base colours of her dresses and
TOP RIGHT AND SECOND ROW: Mireya Ruiz. ABOVE AND REMAINING PHOTOGRAPHS: Anke Schlõder.