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Juliet Fay is one of the most enthusiastic
designers we know. Her Aduki label, the penultimate shown
at ID, was appropriately based around
the idea of winter.
Fay’s ‘Shiver’ collection was about ‘escaping
to the reality of winter,’ and ‘the excitement of winter,’ she told
Lucire. An artwork by Lucinda Webb served as her initial
inspiration.
Examining Fay’s designs close-up, we saw an external
pink graffiti print continues into the lining of a jacket (which,
incidentally, worked with a hood and jeans to make a suit). This
clever design was stencilled afterwards.
Local jeweller Ang Jewiss created Fay’s "cloud"
earrings and the theme continued on to vests and jeans with outlined
cloud images. An Aduki cloud dress literally had a silver lining,
playing on the words. There was a leaf motif on a men’s top, while
denim jeans featured pin-tuck pockets. We also saw a bias skirt
with random pinstriping, a ’70s-style polar fleece jacket, a men’s
corduroy trouser with a straight leg and a dusty appearance.
Aduki’s Origami T-shirts are each unique, with
a different panel on every one. Fay says that these are relatively
easy for her to manufacture and, at NZ$80,
present good value.
Fay saved most of her excitement for her sleeve
scarf. She often saw people who tied a top around their waist. She
liked the look but never liked the idea of having the bulk behind
the wearer. The sleeve scarf is just the front. It could be used
tied around the waist, as a scarf, or even as muffs.
Each year Lucire has attended ID,
Carlson is the
final collection. Last year, it was with good reason: Tanya Carlson’s
work has always had a touch of glamour. Previewed a week before
ID at Lucire, Carlson’s ‘Wallflower’
collection has been inspired by twentieth-century art, with ‘Matisse-like
flower motifs, Mondrianesque patterns and shades of Kadinsky,’ according
to her publicity material.
What we saw was more an ode to Dunedin, as we
reported here in March. One of the dresses was so named. As Carlson
explained at her press conference: ‘[When I was] a teenager, I wanted
something to do. I’d dress up to get the milk, so [my collection
is about] the anticipation of an event, imagined or real. Going
to the road and [seeing] a car passing [would qualify as] an “event”.’
CONTINUED
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TOP AND CENTRE ROW,
LEFT: Aduki. ABOVE AND LEFT:
Carlson.
Tanya
Carlson’s work has always had a touch of glamour
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