Paco Flaqué wasn’t joking when he said that young designers
were the future life-blood of Pasarela Gaudí. A section especially
for young designers—some relatively established, such as Karina
Savarese, others less so, such as Mar Rodriguez—showed more avant-garde
and deconstructed thinking from Barcelona.
Mar Rodriguez dared with lace; Maria Jesus Henarejos
displayed a more restrained, old-style aristocratic elegance. Karina
Savarese took deconstruction to new heights as far as Pasarela Gaudí
was concerned, though her halter wedding dress was less extreme.
Higinio Mateu forecasts tartan and, interestingly, worked in thin
red trim details while sticking to a green and red palette.
Emo-Esther Montoya bridged the gap between Spanish
elegance, European street styles and hip-hop with one of the more
distinctive collections—one only wishes we saw a few more from her.
Montoya, from the few outfits shown, blended ties,
hip-hop-inspired lettering and linear patterns in a cross between
cultures. It was one of the more internationally minded collections—a
European Union of designs, meant in the best possible way in evoking
the sisterhood of cultures.
Marta Fernandez’s designs showed natural floral
forms, whether on cotton or velvet, and quite happily suggested
orange as her colour for autumn–winter. One favourite: an asymmetric
orange coat with exaggerated lapel. M. Angels Botello’s selection
was more sporty: athletic ties from a sweatshirt and zips appeared
alongside ribbons—though maintaining a feminine silhouette with
flowing skirts, cut just above the knee.
We adored the designs of Caridad Frutos. While
using simple, solid black, white and red colours, this label was
not afraid of playing with distinctive knitting and crocheting techniques.
A high-cut red dress with circular strands of wool rope, and a white
knitted tube with an abrupt, angular black panel just below were
two highlights from this label.
Nuria Sendra showed some of the few menswear items,
with her black cape being one of the more memorable. Maria Barros
went from knits to silk brocade with a stunning orange-and-gold
gown, recalling Tibetan monasteries.
Paco Flaqué said that young designers were the future life-blood
of Pasarela Gaudí. A section especially for young designers showed
more avant-garde and deconstructed thinking from Barcelona
LEFT: Maria Jesus
Henarejos. ABOVE, FROM TOP LEFT:
Maria Barros. Caridad Frutos. Emo-Esther Montoya. Caridad Frutos.
Wedding dress from Karina Savarese. Marta Fernandez.