 
Portugals
finest showcased at Moda Lisboa, mixing seasons and seeking
varied inspirations from a mere conversation to twentieth-century
icons, reports Tiago E. Santo
PHOTOGRAPHED BY RUI VASCO/MODA LISBOA
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ABOVE: AlvesGonçalves,
a favourite of the author, injected pink detail into its lined coat.
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HILE
fashion adrenalin ran wild backstage with last-minute preparations,
international press waited long hours, pushing and shoving to defend
their treasured territory along the catwalk.
Moda Lisboa is no exception to this fashion chaos.
From March 25 to 28, Lisboa lets some of its best designers loose
on the catwalk, to give the world a glimpse of what to expect from
the Portuguese for autumn–winter 2004–5. As the 22nd edition of
Moda Lisboa came to an end, an enthusiastic press commented on new
designers, materials and on the potential of exporting.
In order to understand what exactly distinguished
the Portuguese fashion geniuses from other European designers, I
decided to mingle a bit with influential buyers, other foreign press
and VIP guests. After various chats
and just as I suspected, details are what the Portuguese are most
credited for, besides good textures, materials, design and finishing.
As for runway trends, one should aim for a variety,
going from chic sportswear to ripped and stretched textiles, and
layers under long faux fur coats.
Fashion designers have used colour abundantly,
contrasting the forecast cold and rainy weather. Black and anthracite
are also big players but it seems to be less of a must.
Last but not least, miniskirts and short dresses!
Who ever thought these items could extend more than a year as a
fashion "must-wear"?
We saw fewer designers knowing how to differentiate
a winter from a summer. The received wisdom is that people are prepared
to wear whatever, whenever!
CONTINUED
As for runway trends, one should
aim for a variety, going from chic sportswear to ripped and stretched
textiles, and layers under long faux fur coats
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