TOP ROW AND CENTRE
ROW, LEFT: Fátima Lopez. REMAINING
PHOTOGRAPHS: Ana Salazar.
ONE of the best-known Portuguese
fashion designers presented a surrealistic collection. Fashion is
taken to the limit by unreal and irrational beauty represented by
lace dresses embroidered with sequins with black pearl finishing,
graphic and symmetrical lines, contrasts of loose–tight and long–short.
Fabrics such as fur, mink, hand-painted silk,
muslin, metallic Swarovski crystal jerseys, pure wool and textured
denim were constants on the catwalk as details spoke for themselves.
Pointed ankle boots with fur buckles, fur bags with metallic straps
and glasses all carried Lopes’s touch.
WHAT BETTER to demonstrate opposites
than man and woman? Seduced by the idea, Ana Salazar made this her
theme for her autumn–winter collection. The rigorous interplay of
amplification contrasts with the subtleties of details like flowers
and pop-up textures. Fabrics such as satins, silk knitwear, striped
quilted fabrics or crocheted fabrics help to define the difference
between what is considered to be a woman’s lifestyle and what is
expected of a man’s personality.