TOP ROW: Nadya
Toto. CENTRE ROW AND RIGHT: New
talent Tyler Longshaw. ABOVE: SkottsS².
‘New Geometry’ was the theme of Nadya Toto’s
show, a calculated mix of grey, winter white and black in a variety
of shapes. She seemed to have the most fun with tweed, gaily mixing
textures such as a houndstooth alongside a Prince of Wales plaid.
For evening, a very full and asymmetrical plaid skirt with skin-hugging
top was outstanding. Accessories played a big role this time. Toto
showed bright and funky leggings under dresses and tunics, plus
her latest accessory for fall, a tiny tulle mini-skirt to wear over
leggings or pants, and a striking ombre-knit flouncy shawl.
And, of course, the de rigueur designer
début. This time around we met Tyler Longshaw, who
has spent a scant one-and-a-half years at the drawing board, recruited
from Toronto. ‘Everyone was so helpful,’ he says. ‘Because so much
of Montréal’s fashion scene is young and street-oriented,
it was a good fit.’ With a definite modernist mediæval feel,
Longshaw takes his historical references from Barcelona, London,
Paris and Milano. Although largely a menswear designer, the small,
tightly edited show featured six takes for women. He combined the
romance from the age of chivalry with decidedly modern athletic
and streetwear shapes. I especially liked the black cropped long-sleeved
top that appeared totally seamless with a black and red leather
armour-inspired vest with corset detailing, all set atop an unchaste
black micro-skirt, also with lacing and extended front panels.