Patti Hansen would not find
herself out of place in the 2000s if she was wearing their herringbone
wool jacket and slim-cut trouser suit
Y & Kei
FOR FALL 2004, the acclaimed husband
and wife team of ‘Y’ (Hanii Yoon) and ‘Kei’ (Gene Kang) fuse Asian
philosophy with an edge and sexiness usually considered more European,
while crafting a cohesive vision of clothing inspired by the 1930s
reworked with a touch of 1970s’ glam. This means the beautiful flapper
dresses from the spring collection have now been updated to become
a delicate ruffled blouse. Baby doll, dropped-waist ruffled dresses
are now freshly reinterpreted to become artful modern pieces shown
with edgy cropped denim jackets (with fur and chiffon collars).
Patti Hansen, a supermodel from the 1970s, would
not find herself out of place in the 2000s if she was wearing their
herringbone wool jacket and slim-cut trouser suit (with a red silk
blouse with lace collar accents). I liked the Fortuny pleat accent
in their crushed charmeuse camisole. Rianne was ever the stylish
pirate in their felt jacket (with metallic thread top stitching)
and wool herringbone cropped trouser paired with a pleated silk
jacquard chiffon blouse—and I mean that in the nicest way possible.
The entire collection had a sense of fun that, at its centre, had
a sense of subtle luxury, modern edginess and beauty.
This review would not be complete if I didn’t
say something about the full collection of accessories, each as
wonderfully crafted as the clothes. The suede open-toe heels were
rather memorable, especially with the silk ribbon tied around the
ankle. Delicate silk rose shawls were trimmed with fringe; and the
antique clasps and silk ribbon added to strings of pearls gave the
jewellery an heirloom feel that worked very well to advance the
theme of the collection. •
Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor of
Lucire. Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire.
Photographer Cheryl Gorski of www.cherylgorski.com
is a regular contributor to Lucire.