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Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta
TRY AS I MIGHT, I simply cannot think
of Carolina Herrera without my mind flashing on her esteemed peer
designer, Oscar de la Renta. Of all the people in the New York fashion
industry, I count them as two of the smartest, most aware, with
an innate ability to somehow achieve a consistent high level of
quality in their designs season after season. I count them as among
the smartest members of their peers because it has been proven time
and time again that they have not only the talent to go the distant,
but the good sense to acknowledge when they need to set aside their
egos (and seek outside help) for the betterment of the brand.
Mr de la Renta, at age 71, is still a very
vital member of the industry, but several years ago, with an eye
towards the future, he brought his stepdaughter, Eliza Bolen, on
board in an attempt to capture the Junior League segment of the
social swirl that is Manhattan. Mrs Herrera, truly a diamond in
a mound of cubic zirconia, has also brought her daughter, Patricia
Herrera Lansing, and Herve Pierre Braillard (formerly of the Lars
Nilsson-led Bill Blass design team) in on her staff as a means of
furthering the lifeline of her brand. (Let’s just say that this
is their very public way of attacking the issue of future estate
planning.)
Mrs Herrera and Mr de la Renta both know that
nothing worth having last forever without some form of priming the
pump. They will always be known for their elegantly sophisticated
designs but that doesn’t mean that they would like their life’s
work to become fossilized and out of date. With these additions,
they maintain their signature design aesthetic while injecting the
youthful, modern spirit Mrs Lansing, Mr Braillard and Mrs Bolen
brings to the table.
The wonderful designs they sent down the catwalk
for spring 2004 was a brilliant example of the synergy they were
striving for. Inspired by photographer Henri Lartique’s images of
the French Riviera, Mrs Herrera shifted from soft, flirty summer
dresses to hard-edged pieces like her black jersey–organza racer-back
tank (paired with a white pique ‘Riviera’ skirt) with the greatest
of ease, always leaving just enough elements for both the young,
Junior League set and her base ladies-who-lunch client to be excited
about. Early pieces that caught (and kept) my attention included
her ivory georgette camisole and beige silk–cotton piped pants,
Angela Lindvall in a black wool dress with organza bow detailing,
and Frankie Rayder in a beautiful black georgette–organza top and
black chiffon skirt. For a full-blown evening on the town, Mrs Herrera’s
offerings ran the range from a ivory striped strapless tango dress
and an understated black basket weave lace–organza halter gown to
beautiful evening separates such as her black jet beaded racer-back
tank (paired with a ivory georgette evening skirt) and a black camisole
sweater with a ivory striped voluminous ball skirt.
CONTINUED 
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  ABOVE
AND LEFT: Oscar de la Renta. BELOW:
Yeohlee Teng.
  
Mrs Herrera and Mr de la Renta both know that
nothing worth having last forever without some form of priming the
pump
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