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Phillip D. Johnson

FashionLucire spring-summer 2004

Phillip D. Johnson examines the freshmen and sophomore classes of New York Fashion Week: Y & Kei, Vasseur-Esquivel, Dres, Gustavo Arango, B. Michael, Riaka D., Multi by Bree, Paul Hardy, Paris Gordon, and Ashaka Givens & Lorraine West

PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GORSKI, RICHARD SPIEGEL AND THE AUTHOR

 


Ashaka Givens remained true to her roots of ‘making women feel confident and beau­tiful’ by show­casing pieces that played well to her strengths as a designer

Initial capHE FASHION INDUSTRY lives and dies based on the amount of new blood that enters its ranks. As such, those who made up the freshmen and sophomore class of the spring 2004 market week in New York City contributed in innumerably positive ways to it an overwhelming success. Not every collection was an across-the-board success but they gave it their all; and the experience will serve to sharpen their future efforts that much better. At least, that is the hope.


Ashaka Givens and Lorraine West


ABOVE, FROM TOP: Givens and West.

WHEN YOU START TALKING about young up-and-coming designers who have the potential to go all the way, you have to begin with Ashaka Givens and Lorraine West, two bright and talented designers with their studio and showroom based in Brooklyn (315 Gold Street, Suite 3 South). Ms Givens, 30, a 1996 graduate of Manhattan’s Fashion Institute of Technology, believes that ‘the spirit transcending my work corresponds with my motto [in that] creative expression has no limits, and always delving deep within yourself is the key to individualism’. This is reflected in her use of fabrics and materials used in creating her designs, which over the years, have included leather, raffia, jerseys and silks, with an underlying focus on the intrinsic relationship between nature and the body.
   ‘When designing I usually become inspired by culture and fabrics,’ says Ms Givens. ‘… I also play with balance, soft and hard. For instance, a silk chiffon top with burned and delicately beaded edges. It just mixes it up for me. I love working with jersey fabrics because it’s easy to wear and comfortably drapes over a women’s frame. For men, I tend to favour working with leather and denim to create funky takes on a classic look.’
   Her clientèle includes many of the top names in the music and film business including Erykah Badu, actress Rosario Dawson and André Benjamin of the Grammy-nominated group, Outkast. Her designs have been on view on various award shows including the Grammys, the American Music Awards, the MTV Video and Music Awards, the VH1 Music and Fashion Awards, and the Soul Train music awards.
   For spring 2004, she remained true to her roots of ‘making women feel confident and beautiful’ by showcasing pieces that played well to her strengths as a designer. Her selection of gowns ran the gamut from a white floor-length jersey cowl neck design with an asymmetrical hem ($342) to a strapless silk yellow hand-beaded gown ($1,283). Her cocktail dresses and other separates followed the same theme: beautiful designs that make a woman feel like a Hollywood star, all at reasonable prices. Other standout pieces from the collection include her sassy mermaid cascade skirt, a halter cowl neck top dress with a fringed cascade bottom and virtually all the blouses and tops shown at the viewing. The collection itself is reasonably priced, with the average cost of a top or a bottom being $92 and a dress $182. Moreover, of course, her designs were the perfect companions to Ms West’s jewellery.

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