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Cheryl Gorski

Lucire spring-summer 2003-4

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ABOVE: Y & Kei.

 

It was the lion lying with lamb, a veritable Zen moment when the tough and the tender met in the middle to create a new universe

   He is, in his own words, inspired by ‘geopolitics and history’, believing that ‘the elements that affect our society help one to forecast where trends are moving—[g]ood design always respects the past and reflects the future.’ He also defines his style as ‘intellectual purity’ with ‘each piece [being able to] stand on its own, making it both complex and simple.’ His work is meticulously crafted and is very much of the same school of thought that gave rise to London’s Hussein Chalayan and Los Angeles’ Rick Owens. He is experimental in his complex layering but at the same time, his pieces are quite wearable and not that difficult to understand.
   While most everyone else was looking towards Alice in Wonderland and coming up with "pretty pretty" dresses, Mr Hardy went far into the apocalyptic future and gave us a cleaner version of Mad Max 3: Beyond Thunderdome. His colour palette was more along the lines of a sombre grey, black, various shades of brown and off-white. This reviewer like most of what he saw but what stood out in this collection were the sharply cut pants with their high-waisted silhouettes and the various tops shown throughout the viewing. He also knows how to cut a killer coat, yet still remaining true to his vision.
   Although it wasn’t readily apparent, Mr Hardy managed to cover all the bases from day to evening, the proof being his cowl neck halter dress and his crushed linen–cotton strapless cocktail dress. What didn’t work were the pieces where he stretched the boundaries. Some of the more deconstructed designs came across as being a bit forced and lacking conviction. Nevertheless, this was a fine effort by a bright young talent. Mr Hardy is only 30 years old and the world is truly his oyster.


Y & Kei

I SIMPLY LOVED the spring 2004 Y & Kei collection. From their humble beginnings in 2001, the husband-and-wife team of Hanii ‘Y’ Yoon and Gene ‘Kei’ Kang has managed to grow and prosper in a business that doesn’t necessarily welcome newcomers.
   Their philosophy is one based on the Confucian belief of the four pillars (‘to water the earth or to nourish the world with beauty and happiness’). Ergo, from the beginning, their designs were a daring mix of elegantly tailored clothes with astonishing attention to detail, transcending cultural boundaries. They fuse ‘Asian philosophy and [an] avant-garde [sensibility] with an edge of sexiness’ and harmoniously mix vintage with modern, street sophistication, classic with couture, elegant with casual ‘to create innovative clothes for the savvy and self-confident woman [as well as] young women moved quiet, intelligent cuts and alluring beauty.’

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Lucire: fashion magazine homeLucire Fashion FeaturesLucire Living and Beauty Lucire Volante: travel, accommodation guide Lucire fashion news, bulletins and events Fashion shopping guide and directory
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