|
ABOVE LEFT:
Skin Biologys copper-peptide line. ABOVE:
BioHeal, a proven solution for at-risk skin.
Pickart on alpha lipoic acid
‘Alpha lipoic
acid is a molecule that functions in fat metabolism. It is also
a key antioxidant that is both lipid and water soluble. Its
antioxidant properties give it some anti-inflammation qualities.
While most ageing effects are due to innate genetic programmes,
some ageing effects are due to the generation of free radicals
within the cell which activate a cellular messenger called nuclear
factor kappa-B. Nuclear-factor kappa-B then enters the nucleus
of the cell and causes the DNA to produce proteins that can
cause cellular damage. Alpha lipoic acid (and other antioxidants)
can block the development of nuclear factor kappa-B and protect
the cell from damage. Alpha lipoic acid also acts synergistically
with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and vitamin C.
‘In animal studies, alpha lipoic acid has
remarkable success in blocking the development of degenerative
diseases. It is the most effective protective antioxidant supplement.
‘Alpha lipoic acid also helps ageing cells
increase their energy production. This enhances their ability
to repair cellular damage and expel cellular waste products.
Because of this action, alpha lipoic acid, as a one per cent
lotion, has been used as a skin treatment for aged skin.
‘Prof Nicholas Perricone, author of The
Wrinkle Cure (Rodale Press, about $18 and highly recommended),
is a research dermatologist with Yale University who has designed
a line of skin cosmeceuticals (Nicholas Perricone, MD Cosmeceuticals).
He also has conducted studies on alpha lipoic acid and found
it has skin renewal properties and can diminish scarring that
has been caused by acne after approximately six to eight weeks
of use. He sells a version of alpha lipoic acid for skin renewal
(2 oz, $85) from a web site at nvperriconemd.com
and in many high-end stores. Even if you use topical alpha lipoic
acid on your skin, you should still supplement with an oral
dose of about 30100 mg alpha lipoic acid taken along with
your vitamins.’
|
|
Perricone has licensed the use of
the topical form of lipid-soluble Vitamin C to Jan Marini Skin Research,
though the products are similarly priced. The line, C-ESTA,
was developed together with Perricone. Jan Marini’s C-ESTA
Serum has Vitamin C Ester and DAE complex
‘in a patented delivery vehicle combined with other essential factors.’
The price, depending on vendor, is about US$75.
Perricone’s product line, though it effectively
addresses the issue of inflammation and its effect on the skin, it
is not the only option available. Dr Loren Pickart’s copper-peptide
based line, available from his web site at www.skinbiology.com,
also fights inflammation and free-radical damage with an approach
that was originally developed for wound healing.
Dr Loren Pickart’s Skin Biology and the copper-peptide revolution
DR PICKART
originally developed copper-peptide technology for treating wounds
and scars. He is the inventor of numerous treatments for tissue
regeneration and has designed copper-peptides for skin renewal,
hair growth stimulation, hair transplantation, wound healing, bone
repair and intestinal healing. To convert these scientific breakthroughs
into useful products for hospital and cosmetic uses, Pickart founded
ProCyte Corporation in 1985. ProCyte developed the first generation
of tripeptide copper products. Pickart then founded Skin Biology
in 1994 to create a second generation of more effective, skin-regenerating
copper-peptides.
‘The greatest interest in copper peptides is in
the area of reversing the effects of human ageing and ultraviolet
damage on human skin. During ageing, skin becomes thinner and tends
to accumulate various skin lesions and imperfections. The dermis
and epidermis thin and the subcutaneous fat cells diminish in number,’
states Pickart on his web site.
The application of copper-peptide creams is highly
effective in promoting collagen development, increasing the thickness
of the epidermis
Dr Perricone himself suggests
that copper-peptide creams could be
helpful for inflammation in his book The Wrinkle Cure,
and lists Pickart’s site as a source for information and products
|
and dermis, reducing wrinkles, increasing skin elasticity and ‘results
in a removal of skin imperfections such as blotchiness and sun damage
marks,’ said Pickart in Specialty Chemical’s Spechchemonline.com.
‘The best regenerating copper peptides (RCPs)
are in skin products with the second-generation RCPs
from Skin Biology or the first-generation RCPs
from Neutrogena and ProCyte. These are products that have credible,
published, scientific evidence of effectiveness. Not all copper peptides
are skin-regenerating. Other companies do sell copper-peptide skin
products; however, our tests of many of these products find little
or at best marginal activity on skin. Some of these actually inhibit
skin repair. Others use peptides from yeast or bacteria that are known
to cause skin allergies and asthma in sensitive persons.
‘Skin Biology’s new and patented, second-generation
copper-peptides are breakdown-resistant, long-acting, and produce
strong skin regeneration. They also can be used with hydroxy acids
and Retin-A. The single peptides (tripeptides or pentapeptides)
used in many products tend to be fragile, short-acting, and cannot
be used with hydroxy acids,’ reads his site.
Dr Perricone himself suggests that copper-peptide
creams could be helpful for inflammation in The
Wrinkle Cure, and lists Pickart’s site as a source for information
and products.
Another very gratifying aspect of Pickart’s approach
to the care of skin, is his commitment to sharing complete information
regarding his products and his methods. The studies evaluating his
products are available on his web site at www.skinbio.com,
as is valuable information on many forms of skin regeneration, including
information regarding The Wrinkle Cure and Perricone’s use
of Alpha Lipoic Acid. He also includes information regarding Dr
Sheldon Pinnell of Cellex-C and SkinCeuticals fame (both makers
of high-potency Vitamin C products). Pickart also explains every
element of his formulations throughout his vast web site.
Dr Pickart has built a very high level of loyalty
to his products by consistently taking reactions and comments from
his clients—adjusting formulations when necessary to continually
make products that exceed customers’ expectations. Another key to
SkinBio’s success is Pickart’s recipes that have focused categorically
on improving the plight of clients with very sensitive, reactive
skin. Potent Vitamin C products frequently require a very acidic
base, causing burning, stinging and redness in some skin types.
Copper-peptide products offer welcome relief to troubled, sensitized
complexions while providing the firming, brightening benefits of
harsher treatments.
The price is also very appealing, with his most
popular skin creams, the Protect & Restore line, starting at just
$22·95. Products are also available in trial sizes and cost-saving
kits.
M. K. Johnson is director of BeautySpecial
Projects at Lucire.
For more information about Dr Perricone’s
product line, speaking engagements, and books, visit www.drperricone.com.
Information regarding Dr Pickart, SkinBiology
products, and copper-peptide skin regeneration, visit www.skinbio.com.
Some information in this article used with
permission of Dr Pickart.
Amazon.com links
Buy The
Perricone Prescription $27·50 $19·25
Buy The
Perricone Prescription Personal Journal : Your Total Body and Face
Rejuvenation Daybook $14·95
Buy The
Wrinkle Cure $13·95 $11·16
|