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Lucire Living 2003

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ABOVE LEFT: Skin Biology’s copper-peptide line. ABOVE: BioHeal, a proven solution for at-risk skin.

 
Pickart on alpha lipoic acid
‘Alpha lipoic acid is a molecule that functions in fat metabolism. It is also a key antioxidant that is both lipid and water soluble. Its antioxidant properties give it some anti-inflammation qualities. While most ageing effects are due to innate genetic programmes, some ageing effects are due to the generation of free radicals within the cell which activate a cellular messenger called nuclear factor kappa-B. Nuclear-factor kappa-B then enters the nucleus of the cell and causes the DNA to produce proteins that can cause cellular damage. Alpha lipoic acid (and other antioxidants) can block the development of nuclear factor kappa-B and protect the cell from damage. Alpha lipoic acid also acts synergistically with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and vitamin C.
   ‘In animal studies, alpha lipoic acid has remarkable success in blocking the development of degenerative diseases. It is the most effective protective antioxidant supplement.
   ‘Alpha lipoic acid also helps ageing cells increase their energy production. This enhances their ability to repair cellular damage and expel cellular waste products. Because of this action, alpha lipoic acid, as a one per cent lotion, has been used as a skin treatment for aged skin.
   ‘Prof Nicholas Perricone, author of The Wrinkle Cure (Rodale Press, about $18 and highly recommended), is a research dermatologist with Yale University who has designed a line of skin cosmeceuticals (Nicholas Perricone, MD Cosmeceuticals). He also has conducted studies on alpha lipoic acid and found it has skin renewal properties and can diminish scarring that has been caused by acne after approximately six to eight weeks of use. He sells a version of alpha lipoic acid for skin renewal (2 oz, $85) from a web site at nvperriconemd.com and in many high-end stores. Even if you use topical alpha lipoic acid on your skin, you should still supplement with an oral dose of about 30–100 mg alpha lipoic acid taken along with your vitamins.’
 

 

   Perricone has licensed the use of the topical form of lipid-soluble Vitamin C to Jan Marini Skin Research, though the products are similarly priced. The line, C-ESTA, was developed together with Perricone. Jan Marini’s C-ESTA Serum has Vitamin C Ester and DAE complex ‘in a patented delivery vehicle combined with other essential factors.’ The price, depending on vendor, is about US$75.
   Perricone’s product line, though it effectively addresses the issue of inflammation and its effect on the skin, it is not the only option available. Dr Loren Pickart’s copper-peptide based line, available from his web site at www.skinbiology.com, also fights inflammation and free-radical damage with an approach that was originally developed for wound healing.

Dr Loren Pickart’s Skin Biology and the copper-peptide revolution
DR PICKART originally developed copper-peptide technology for treating wounds and scars. He is the inventor of numerous treat­ments for tissue regeneration and has designed copper-peptides for skin renewal, hair growth stimulation, hair transplantation, wound healing, bone repair and intestinal healing. To convert these scientific breakthroughs into useful products for hospital and cosmetic uses, Pickart founded ProCyte Corporation in 1985. ProCyte developed the first generation of tripeptide copper products. Pickart then founded Skin Biology in 1994 to create a second generation of more effective, skin-regenerating copper-peptides.
   ‘The greatest interest in copper peptides is in the area of reversing the effects of human ageing and ultraviolet damage on human skin. During ageing, skin becomes thinner and tends to accumulate various skin lesions and imperfections. The dermis and epidermis thin and the subcutaneous fat cells diminish in number,’ states Pickart on his web site.
   The application of copper-peptide creams is highly effective in promoting collagen development, increasing the thickness of the epidermis
Dr Perricone himself suggests that copper-peptide creams could be helpful for inflammation in his book The Wrinkle Cure, and lists Pickart’s site as a source for information and products
and dermis, reducing wrinkles, increasing skin elasticity and ‘results in a removal of skin imperfections such as blotchiness and sun damage marks,’ said Pickart in Specialty Chemical’s Spechchemonline.com.
   ‘The best regenerating copper peptides (RCPs) are in skin products with the second-generation RCPs from Skin Biology or the first-generation RCPs from Neutrogena and ProCyte. These are products that have credible, published, scientific evidence of effectiveness. Not all copper peptides are skin-regenerating. Other companies do sell copper-peptide skin products; however, our tests of many of these products find little or at best marginal activity on skin. Some of these actually inhibit skin repair. Others use peptides from yeast or bacteria that are known to cause skin allergies and asthma in sensitive persons.
   ‘Skin Biology’s new and patented, second-generation copper-peptides are breakdown-resistant, long-acting, and produce strong skin regeneration. They also can be used with hydroxy acids and Retin-A. The single peptides (tripeptides or pentapeptides) used in many products tend to be fragile, short-acting, and cannot be used with hydroxy acids,’ reads his site.
   Dr Perricone himself suggests that copper-peptide creams could be helpful for inflammation in The Wrinkle Cure, and lists Pickart’s site as a source for information and products.
   Another very gratifying aspect of Pickart’s approach to the care of skin, is his commitment to sharing complete information regarding his products and his methods. The studies evaluating his products are available on his web site at www.skinbio.com, as is valuable information on many forms of skin regeneration, including information regarding The Wrinkle Cure and Perricone’s use of Alpha Lipoic Acid. He also includes information regarding Dr Sheldon Pinnell of Cellex-C and SkinCeuticals fame (both makers of high-potency Vitamin C products). Pickart also explains every element of his formulations throughout his vast web site.
   Dr Pickart has built a very high level of loyalty to his products by consistently taking reactions and comments from his clients—adjusting formulations when necessary to continually make products that exceed customers’ expectations. Another key to SkinBio’s success is Pickart’s recipes that have focused categorically on improving the plight of clients with very sensitive, reactive skin. Potent Vitamin C products frequently require a very acidic base, causing burning, stinging and redness in some skin types. Copper-peptide products offer welcome relief to troubled, sensitized complexions while providing the firming, brightening benefits of harsher treatments.
   The price is also very appealing, with his most popular skin creams, the Protect & Restore line, starting at just $22·95. Products are also available in trial sizes and cost-saving kits. •

M. K. Johnson is director of Beauty—Special Projects at Lucire.

For more information about Dr Perricone’s product line, speaking engagements, and books, visit www.drperricone.com.

Information regarding Dr Pickart, SkinBiology products, and copper-peptide skin regeneration, visit www.skinbio.com. Some information in this article used with permission of Dr Pickart.

Amazon.com links
Buy The Perricone Prescription $27·50 $19·25
Buy The Perricone Prescription Personal Journal : Your Total Body and Face Rejuvenation Daybook $14·95
Buy The Wrinkle Cure $13·95 $11·16

 

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