The result? Acetyl-hexapeptide may not be as effective as Botox in relaxing expression lines, but it doesn't require a needle either

MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: DDF Anti-wrinkle Eye Renewal Treatment (photograph courtesy Drugstore.com). ABOVE, FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Desert Essence Age Reversal Face Serum (photograph courtesy Drugstore.com). Biotoc. DDF Wrinkle Relax (photograph courtesy Drugstore.com). Bioque Serum XL. Crème de Vie. Clair Lipo-Tox (photograph courtesy DietJuice.com).

ITH BOTOX PARTIES all the rage, and Retin-A still setting the standard in the battle against wrinkles, it was only a matter of time before the cosmetics industry launched its counter attack. Two new heavy-hitters have bounded onto the scene and are rapidly gaining market share in this very fickle beauty business.

No-needle wrinkle relaxing?
PERHAPS the most commercially viable Botox alternative, acetyl-hexapeptide (trade name Argireline), developed by Spanish company Centerchem (www.centerchem.com), is showing promise as a less toxic, much less invasive alternative to the controversial injections.
   According to the company's web site, ‘Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamine (neurotransmitters that are believed to cause the formation of the expressions leading to lines) release.’
   That's the claim. The result? It may not be as effective as Botox in relaxing expression lines, but it doesn't require a needle either. Whether this truly works as claimed remains to be seen, though many companies using the compound cite the study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (vol. 24, no. 5, October 2002, p. 303) as proof that the compound works. The study used a 10 per cent concentration in an oil/water emulsion. The results showed reduced wrinkle depth up to 30 per cent upon 30 days’ treatment.
   So if the idea of being injected with botulinum neurotoxin sounds bit too scary and a bit too pricey, then products touting acetyl hexapeptide may well be worth a try. There are lots of options available, in all price categories.
   How do you choose what's right for you? According to beauty advisers in the know, the best bet is to go for a formula that has the optimum concentration (around the 10 per cent mark) and look for other, more traditional wrinkle-fighting ingredients like antioxidants (Vitamins A, C, and E) in the mix, and few to no irritants like SD alcohol.
   Some products of note include the following.

Zia Natural Skincare Ultimate Day Renewal (containing acetyl-hexapeptide-3)
www.zianatural.com

Desert Essence Age Reversal Face Serum (and Cream)
www.affordablecountrylife.com/age-reversal-face-serum.html
www.drugstore.com
$29·99 (1·0 oz)

Biotoc
www.biotoc.net/page2.htm
$79 (0·5 oz)

Bioque Serum XL
www.bioque.com
$85 (1·0 oz)

Crème de Vie
www.cremedevie.com
$112 (1·7 oz)

DDF Wrinkle Relax (also contains palmitoyl pentapeptide, described in the next section)
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com
$75 (0·5 oz)

DDF Anti-wrinkle Eye Renewal Treatment
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com
$48 (0·5 oz treatment, included in kit)

Clair Lipo-Tox from Eudora International
www.dietjuice.com/clairlipotox.html
$150 (0·5 oz)

BTX Double Action Gel
www.naturalskincare.com/newpdcts.html
$38 (1·0 oz)

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