A kinder, gentler alternative to Retin-A: palmitoyl pentapeptide
Two recent studies made news at the World Congress of Dermatology, when the compound palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was found to rival Retin-A in smoothing rough skin and deep facial wrinkles without the inflammation associated with retinoid treatments.
   According to Dr Karl Lintner, with Sederma SA in Paris (sponsor of the two studies), the results suggest that palmitoyl pentapeptide is as effective as retinol at regenerating the skin but without the irritation that often occurs secondary to retinoid use. (The study can be found at www.pslgroup.com/dg/2177E6.htm.)
   So where do you find this latest weapon against skin ageing? As with Argireline, it's turning up in all the cosmetic markets—from mass market lines like Olay's Regenerist, to Philosophy's very popular Save Me treatment.
   The keys, as on the first page, are where you'll find the palmitoyl pentapeptide on the ingredient list and what other ingredients comprise the formula. Shop around, read the labels and ask for samples wherever possible to find the right fit in your skincare regimen. Here are a few choices to get you started.

Philosophy When Hope Is Not Enough a.m. Firming Serum
$35 (1·0 oz)
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com

Philosophy Save Me
$60 (1·0 oz)
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com
(Also contains a stable form of Vitamin C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, retinyl palmitate and retinol.)

Philosophy When Hope Is Not Enough p.m. Firming Cream
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com
$45 (2 oz)

Face Lift Collagen 5 Intensive Eye Repair for Deep Wrinkles
www.walgreens.com
www.drugstore.com
$12·99 (1·5 oz)

Face Lift Collagen 5 Intensive Wrinkle Reducing Cream for Deep Wrinkles
www.walgreens.com
www.drugstore.com
$12·99 (1·5 oz)

Face Lift Collagen 5 Cell Regeneration Cream
www.drugstore.com
$16·49 (1·5 oz)
(Also contains olive fruit oil, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and ascorbic acid.)

4VOO Distinct Man Rejuvenating Eye Gel
www.4voo.com/education/ed_eyegel.htm
$49

Pentapeptide-SF from New Spirit Eye Contour Serum
www.newspirit.com/literature/techbulletins_pentapeptide.htm
(Also contains multi-mineral complex [copper, magnesium, zinc], alpha lipoic acid, Vitamins A, E, stabilized Vitamin C (Ester-C), and anti-inflammatory botanicals such as pomegranate, bilberry, green tea, and algæ extract.)
$35 (30 ml)

 
The best of both worlds: combining peptide technology
If you can't choose which route to go, pick both. Some lines, like Doctor's Dermatological Formula (DDF), have capitalized on both promising ingredients—to tackle wrinkles from both sides of the peptide battle.
   Here are a few products that offer a lot of bang for the buck! •

DDF Wrinkle Relax
www.ddfskin.com
www.drugstore.com
www.sephora.com
$75

Desert Essences Age Reversal Serum
www.drugstore.com
www.nutritionblvd.com
$29·99 (1·0 oz)

Desert Essences Age Reversal Skin Cream
www.drugstore.com
www.nutritionblvd.com
$29·99 (2·0 oz)

 
M. K. Johnson is Director of Beauty—Special Projects at Lucire.

ABOVE, FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Philosophy When Hope Is Not Enough a.m. Firming Serum. Philosophy Save Me. Philosophy When Hope Is Not Enough p.m. Firming Cream. Face Lift Collagen 5 Intensive Eye Repair for Deep Wrinkles. Face Lift Collagen 5 Intensive Wrinkle Reducing Cream for Deep Wrinkles. Face Lift Collagen 5 Cell Regeneration Cream. 4VOO Distinct Man Rejuvenating Eye Gel. Desert Essences Age Reversal Skin Cream. (All photographs courtesy Drugstore.com except 4VOO eye gel and Desert Essences cream, courtesy the manufacturers.)