Hydrangea Cottages (www.pancake-rocks.co.nz) is situated just 500 m past the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. Two of the cottages have awe­some seaviews, each has a deck or balcony to soak up the sun on and the sounds of the sea worked wonders sooth­ing away those work stresses. Hydran­gea also runs horse treks which takes riders into the Puna­kaiki Valley and along the beach to the Pancake Rocks. All in all it was beautifully restful and I only wished we could have stayed longer than two nights.
   We stayed in and cooked a roast chook that night, enjoying the privacy and relaxed feel of our delight­ful cottage. The next morning, after a wonder­fully peaceful night’s sleep, I took a trip across to the famous Pancake Rocks (thus called because they look like a stack of pancakes!) with my trusty camera. It was a gorgeous, sunny day—and what a beautiful spot to stroll around. The Blowhole is a really stunning and popular attraction: at high tide the water is sucked in and blown out of a hole in the rocks, creating a geyser effect!
   After a leisurely hot chocolate and a look around the arty galleries situated at the Rocks, I drove the half hour or so down to Greymouth to check out the Jade Boulder Gallery (the west coast is renowned for its greenstone or jade carvings and jewellery). I enjoyed a latte, a yummy smoked salmon and an avocado bagel for lunch; afterwards, I popped into the gallery of local photographer, Stewart Nimmo, whose stunning framed photographs of the land and seascapes around the coast make great souvenirs to take back home.
   We had hoped to visit the award-winning Bay House Café (www.bayhousecafe.co.nz), at nearby Cape Foulwind, for dinner that night, but it had recently changed ownership and was closed for reno­vations. I was disappointed as I had heard such great things about this place, but it goes on the list of “must-dos” next time round.
   Sadly, it was back home the next day. Knowing I probably wouldn’t be back for a while, I meditated on the stunning coastal scenery on the drive back up to Westport. With some convincing (of my shopping-phobic travelling partner) I managed to have one final stop off at a quaint wee cottage on the coastal road out of town where some local artists had a sea-view gallery of gorgeous glassware and other beautiful items for sale. The west coast is becoming more renowned for its local arts and crafts and I found many unusual pieces which would have made great gifts or keepsakes.
   With its gorgeous scenery, developing accommodation and arts and café scene, the wild west coast is a splendid place to rest awhile. Perhaps the best thing is that it hasn’t yet turned into a really commercial touristy area, so you can still enjoy yourself without too many madding crowds. But be quick, as this piece of paradise may not stay this way for long! •

Jo Donnelly is director of PlanitNZ, www.planitnz.com.

It hasn’t yet turned into a really commercial touristy area, so you can still enjoy yourself without too many madding crowds

MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: The Pancake Rocks, formed of limestone shaped through natural erosion. ABOVE: The Blowhole at the Pancake Rocks. BELOW LEFT: More of the Pancake Rocks.