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Other designs at the top of the show that stood
out include his black cashmere ‘tailleur’ with braided
aubergine leather insets, classic Ralph Rucci designs such as his
monkish charcoal wool jersey dress, his dark violet silk–wool
sheath with sheer fabric insets, and his black feathered boucle
coat over corresponding black feathered cocktail tulle pyjama pants.
Johanna, wearing his bias-cut charcoal pinstripe silk with a beaded
black bodice ‘Franz Kline’ cocktail dress, was a vision
of ethereal loveliness. And every piece in his gloriously fabulous
eveningwear finalé section of his RTW
collection has no rivals. All things being equal, standout pieces
here include his Cy Twombly tube gown with pleated stole, Linda
in his tweed beaded charcoal cashmere gown, Elise in his taupe duchess
satin coat and pants over a grey freshwater pearl embroidered bodice,
and Erin O'Connor, one of Mr Rucci's favourite models, in a statuesque
aubergine alligator, satin duchess and gazaar "suspension"
infanta gown.
Chado Ralph Rucci spring 2005 haute couture collection
And the visual treats continued with an abbreviated showing of his
spring 2005 haute couture collection. Cancelled in mid-January due
to a family emergency, as an audience member, it was like winning
the Powerball Lottery, your interfering mother finally retiring
to Boca Raton, getting a promotion at your work and finding the
man of your dreams—on all the same day. It doesn't get any
better than this. He showed 15 pieces from his cancelled show and
every piece was a winner.
From Michelle in an orange double-faced wool dress
and Rachel in a white double-faced wool suspension suit with accenting
orange patches, it was like Christmas all over again. Every design
here deserves its own pedestal, but the “cream” still
rose to the top. Hannalore in an embroidered nude bodice jacket
and suit is a keeper for the ages; Coco was a goddess from heaven
in a dark caftan with gold matchstick embroidery. The show ended
with Eugenia in an ivory floral infanta gown that was too beautiful
for words.
Once again, everything fell into the place. The
make-up by Shu Uemera, hair by Laurent Philippon for Bumble &
Bumble, the jewellery by Dean Harris, and accessories (fur, gloves,
bags, shoes) by Pologeorgis, Daniel Sorto, Carlos Falchi, and Manolo
Blahnik were just right on the money.
Mr Rucci has long been an underground superstar
on the New York fashion scene, and the present accolades and personal
adoration he's now receiving is long overdue. All the success he's
now enjoying is richly deserved. By quietly working under the radar
for so many years, he's managed to work out the kinks, perfect his
craft, so to speak and blossomed into a designer that is spoken
of with high regard throughout the international fashion scene.
So now, it's onward and upward for Mr Rucci and his boundless imagination.
And I, for one, can hardly wait to see what he has in store for
the fall 2005 haute couture collection in Paris and the spring 2006
in September in New York City. Viva Ralph Rucci! Long live the king.
•
Phillip D. Johnson is features’ editor
of Lucire.
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