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ITH THE CHANGE of the seasons, you do a lot more than put away your winter jackets and heavy blankets. For most people, it means adopting a whole new attitude and mindset. For me, it means I change my exercise routine, my eating habits and my grooming regimens. To go along with all these changes, I also change my men's fragrance. Research conducted by the New York City-based Fragrance Foundation shows that each of us has our own unique odour identity 'which is the sum total of our heredity (genes), skin type (dry, oily, light, dark), hair colour, diet, whether or not we take medications, are under stress, the environment in which we live, etc.'
   It is also true that our sense of smell is not as keen in the winter as it is in the summer because heat increases the impact of odour. In the summer there are so many fascinating "smell signals" around us, and we are more conscious of our sense of smell and certainly enjoy it to the fullest. Therefore, in hot weather, each fragrance application goes a long way and it is recommended that lighter scented fragrances should be worn. Furthermore, even if a fragrance is applied in the morning—especially in the heat of summer—don't expect it to last throughout the day. It should be refreshed approximately every three to four hours because dry skin does not hold fragrances as long as oily skin or "wet" winter skin.
   The fragrance types that were forecasted to dominate in the summer 2004 season continue their reign in 2005. For day, the experts at the Fragrance Foundation continue to advocate for 'fresh and clean scents' with a push towards 'more aquatic notes, modern fougeres often brightened with a touch of aromatic notes … and bright, zingy citrus scents that speak to notions of energy and good health.' For night, the emphasis is still on 'warm, luminous spices, gourmand notes, amber, soft musks and warm woods combined with a fresh note to modernize and make the scent wearable.' Accordingly, the typical evening scent for men is 'warm, arousing, and even a touch animalistic.'
   The following men's (and selected women's) fragrances caught our fancy and we thought we would share them with you.

Aramis Life, My Summer
Aramis continues to expand its line of fragrances starting with Aramis Life, My Summer (100 ml eau de toilette, US$42, 2), a new addition to the Aramis Life Collection inspired by tennis legend André Agassi. While, the original, Aramis Life (3), was clearly more a daytime fragrance, My Summer is more of an evening scent. With a formulation comprising of a frozen citrus lime top base supported with a middle note of masculine floral accord build around orris and finished off with a bouquet of roasted nuts, saffron and malt extract with a touch of leather, My Summer is a refreshing yet opinionated scent. Its initial vibrancy is ably supported by a dry down that is very subtle. The frosted glass bottle is also a subtle reference to the coolness factor Aramis is attempting to infuse within the overall packaging of this scent.
   The Summer Life gift set, featuring the eau de toilette and shower gel, also débuted in May 2005 and has a suggested retail price of US$47. Both the EDT and gift set can be found at fine department stores in 120 countries and territories worldwide.

Aramis Bermuda Tonic
For summer 2005, Aramis also introduced Aramis Bermuda Tonic (100 ml eau de toilette, US$39), an exciting, new take on the original Aramis EDT introduced in 1964. While I will always be faithful to my one and only, Davidoff Coolwater, I am being sorely tempted to go astray by Bermuda Tonic, an EDT that seriously evokes the essence of the fragrant flowers and tropical breezes of the islands. It is a fragrance of distinct character and enticement with its refreshing top notes (fresh crisp green notes), touches of citrus wrapped in the floral heart of the eucalyptus flower and bottom notes of rum, milk and soft woods. It's really a near-perfect scent, in that it's not too sweet with a very minimal alcohol base. Escape in your mind with Bermuda Tonic to the secluded beach vacation you may yet take while you ignore the fact that you are really tied to the office with a desk piled with files.

Pour un Homme de Caron
The first fragrance created specifically for a man in 1934, Pour un Homme de Caron (125 ml eau de toilette spray, US$70, 4) from Caron Paris at the time embodied all that was innovative and daring—and still does. Its minimalist elegance starts with the flask-shaped bottle and continues with a ground-breaking composition that is one of the top 10 most popular masculine fragrances in the world, a legacy passed down from one generation of men to another. The top notes (absolute and essence of lavender, selected from over 100 varieties grown in the soils of Provence) combine with the middle notes (vanilla and still more lavender) and the basenotes (musk and amber) to create an olfactory delight.
   Pour un Homme de Caron (EDT splash 125 ml–750 ml, US$66–190 and line extension items, stick deodorant to after shave, US$20–40) are available at the Caron Boutique (675 Madison Avenue, 61st and 62nd Streets in New York City, 1 212 319-4888) and select department stores. Call 1 877 88-CARON for more information.

Realities for Men
Introduced late 2004, Realities for Men (3·4 fl oz cologne spray, US$55, 1) by Realities Cosmetics Company is a clean, fresh scent created for the man 'who has it all—a challenging career, a meaningful relationship and an insatiable appetite to experience all the world has to offer.' Well, I don't know about all that but I know that I like this cologne spray. Created by Pierre Negrin of the House of Givaudin, Realities is a well-balanced blend of woods (citrus and sueded wood), a freshness derived from the middle notes of Italian grapefruit, mandarin and wet greens; and the rousing finish of nutmeg, ginger and a blend of teas, all designed to create a sense of well-being and balance. Here, too, the dry-down is quite unobtrusive, and the smell becomes a part of you in the best way possible.
   I am also quite enamoured with the broad-shouldered glass bottle with its gunmetal silver cap, double banded in olive. It's all so masculine and strong-looking. What's not to like about that?
   The Realities for Men Cologne Collection also includes a 1·7 fl oz cologne spray (US$45), a 3·4 fl oz after shave (US$45), a 4·2 fl oz after shave soother (US$35), a 6·7 fl oz hair and body wash (US$20), and a 2·6 oz deodorant (US$15).

CONTINUED

For day, the Fragrance Foundations advocates for ‘fresh and clean scents’ with a push towards ‘more aquatic notes, modern fougeres often brightened with a touch of aromatic notes … and bright, zingy citrus scents that speak to notions of energy and good health.’ For night, the emphasis is still on ‘warm, luminous spices, gourmand notes, amber, soft musks and warm woods combined with a fresh note to modernize and make the scent wearable’

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Read the first Lucire Men supplement in the July 2005 issue of Lucire. To make sure you don’t miss out, click on the image at right to subscribe or buy a single copy. (Click 'Yes' if pop-up boxes appear—you're being switched to our secure server and it is completely safe.)