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volante:
new zealand
 Capital dining—eating out in Wellington
Jack Yan, the man who entertains
visitors to Lucire HQ in Wellington, New Zealand, summarizes
his favourite places for dining
A FEW YEARS AGO, Megan Johnson at
Thread asked me about dining out in Wellington. Even though
the email was originally private, Megan thought it was good enough
to be published (with my permission).
Today, I still seem to be the one who makes dinner
plans on where to go, and it was time to revisit the old guide and
provide visitors to New Zealand’s capital on where my haunts are.
As a rule, I try not to go to too-trendy joints.
For a start, I can’t stand being grouped in with a bunch of tossers.
Secondly, too-trendy means waiting for food. Thirdly, you might
not get very good service.
Besides, if you are courting or even entertaining
out-of-towners, why take them to places where you can’t hear them
talk or share some heart-to-heart moments?
All premises take American Express and the sole
commercial connection with our magazine is noted.
Cobar
Top of the list. OK, so it means a
drive out to Eastbourne but if you like motoring or checking what
your car’s handling is like, then Cobar at Days Bay offers great
views back of the city, and since a price reduction this year, a
decent feed for more reasonable money. The chicken is consistently
good based on four visits between December 2007 and this writing,
and Caroline and Emma, the proprietors, do offer personal, real
service. At 612 Main Road, Days Bay, 64 4 562-8882; cobar.co.nz.
Villa Margarita
Not technically a restaurant, but a private villa in Pauatahanui,
but the food served by Mark and Margarita Owen and the personal
service are worth it—if they can have you. Better book a weekend
away here (Lucires on
site), but know that great food is part of the package. Arguably
the most international of the properties on this page. At 234D
Flightys Road, Pauatahanui; see villamargarita.co.nz;
call 64 4 234-8870.
Soi Café and Bar
While Soi did indeed advertise with Lucire a few issues ago,
I had been frequenting it long before. A brother-and-sister team
has turned the property at Greta Pt around, making it one of the
trendy, just-out-of-the-city places that serves decent food (with
an east Asian bent, but occidental enough for most) with an amazing
ambience (part of the restaurant is over water). Forget the Tugboat
if you want a watery experience: Soi—which is a romanization of
southern Chinese dialects for water—gives that calming experience
along with the intimacy courting requires. And the space means that
you can have a larger party in another part of the restaurant. It
even has a private function room. At 305 Evans Bay Parade, 64 4
386-3830, soicafebar.co.nz.
Simply Paris
Agnès and Pascal Chivot’s Simply Paris is known for its cakes
and wine list, and they are genuinely French. Anything from the
pâtisserie menu is to die for, and the restaurant deserves
the reputation of being the most French in town. At 181 Cuba Street
(near the Vivian Street end), 64 4 801-5486. URL
simplyparis.co.nz.
Monsoon Poon
Mike Egan’s Monsoon Poon was so successful that it spawned an Auckland
branch, but the original is still popular after all these years
for its Asian-fusion cuisine. If you’re on Blair Street, this is
one to check out (at no. 12), 64 4 803-3555, monsoonpoon.co.nz.
Satay Kampong
Increasingly my new Malaysian haunt when in the Courtenay Place
area. Satay Kampong became famous when it was a shack-type place
in front of a massage parlour on Wakefield Street, taking cash only.
To get the trade in, they made the food exceptional.
So many other Malaysian places have popped up
since, and Satay Kampong has upped its game by opening on Allen
Street (no. 24) and taking all major credit cards. The food is still
very good, but while others have caught up or learned the secret
recipe, it’s still just slightly above the rest. Call 64 4 384-7594,
www.igougo.com.
Kazu
If you are Chinese, then don’t mention the war and you’ll get decent
service at Kazu on 13 Tory Street, 64 4 802-5298. The raw fish is
fresh, unlike some places that we won’t name, but the terayaki chicken
is a good choice. A sister property at 43 Courtenay Place (up the
stairs, 64 4 802-4868) has a similar menu but the addition of Calpis
on the drinks’ list.
St John’s Bar
The former HQ for Wellington Free
Ambulance—older Wellingtonians will remember when the white-and-red
Bedfords exited from the front—has great drinks and a very good
pork steak. At 5 Cable Street; www.stjohnsbar.co.nz,
64 4 801-8017.
Boulcott Street Bistro
Justifiably one of the places that could charge over $30 for a beef
steak—this is considered Wellington’s top of the tree place for
refinement, interior class, and it’s just far enough away from the
buzzy centre to be tosspot-free. At 99 Boulcott Street, 64 4 499-4199,
www.boulcottstreetbistro.co.nz.
Arbitrageur
Known for its wine list, but I think it’s better known for some
Francophone staff who will spend more time indulging français
etranger than their colleagues back home. Best place on Featherston
Street (no. 125) and I would dare include Lambton Quay into that.
URL www.arbitrageur.co.nz,
call 64 4 499-5530.
Mojo
A few places around the city have Mojos, known for coffee and a
high standard for its brand: the idea is that all Mojos exhibit
the same values. See mojocoffeecartel.com.
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Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire.
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As a rule, I try not to go to too-trendy joints.
For a start, I can’t stand being grouped in with a bunch of tossers
Above and left: Soi has a bright ambience and the water has
a calming effect.
Cobar
Monsoon Poon
Boulcott Street Bistro
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