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Lucire: Volante


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Lucire: Volante
Scenes from Chicago Michigan Avenue Bridge and Wicker Park

A taste of Chicago, 2013-style


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Local flavour

Viceroy of India (2520 West Devon Avenue, Chicago, IL 60659, 1 773 743-4100)

If it is curry, spice and silks you crave, Devon Avenue is your kind of street, with miles of jewellery stores, sari shops and excellent Indian fare. However, Viceroy is regarded by locals as a jewel in the area’s restaurant crown. An aromatic, extensive lunch buffet entices with oven-fresh nan, zesty curries with killer sauces and flawless, juicy tandoori chicken.

Tecalitlan (1814 West Chicago Avenue, 1 773 384-4285)

Given how Tecalitlan scores on all fronts—freshness, quality, service and value—it is a little surprising that Mexican food enthusiasts consider this one of Chicago’s best kept secrets. For starters, literally, you get a lush and spicy salsa and hearty out-of-the-oven tortilla chips. Next, order grilled steak, chicken, pork, vegetarian or chorizo (nice texture and bite) any way you want—tostadas, tacos or burritos. If you’re hungry, go all the way with a “Suiza”-style burrito (covered with cheese), dress it up with cebollitas asadas (grilled onions) and finish with a strawberry liquada or margarita. ¡Olé! A satisfying meal for two often comes out to US$25.

iCream (1537 North Milwaukee Avenue Chicago, IL 60622, 1 773 342-2834)

A tasty little mash-up of 1950s’ kitchen and Bill Nye’s science lab, tailored for dessert lovers. While national ice cream chains like Cold Stone and yoghurt-come-lately places like Pinkberry succeed by appealing to customers’ do-it-yourself sensibility, some argue they lack a true “home-made” authenticity. Wicker Park-based iCream, however, succeeds in revamping the concept, not just with a cool minimalist setting, but also by bringing all the indulgences under one roof—ice cream, yoghurt, pudding or shakes customizable with a bewildering mix of flavour and topping options. For the overwhelmed or less ambitious, iCream has convenient posters suggesting such wild creations as ‘Cinnamon Something or Other’, ‘PB OMG’, ‘Pomegranate Green Tea’ (great as a yoghurt blend), ‘Pearmagranate’, and ‘Frooti Tooti’.

Fannie May Candies
Fannie May Candies sells ice-cream at the many locations across town. However, as most of them are inspired by their such iconic Chicagoland favourite bon-bons as Trinidads (white chocolate and coconut enrobing a gooey dark chocolate centre), Turtles and Mint Meltaways, try the candies first and be sure to bring home a box for the chocoholic in your life (their eternally popular Colonial assortment is a foolproof gift). Those who want salt with their sweet should (literally) follow their nose to Garrett Popcorn Shop. The beloved giant tins make great storage boxes for tools and kitchen gadgets after the goodies are gone.



Haute dogs
Signs emblazoned with big red Vs punctuate the streets of Chicago’s neighbourhoods, from north to south. The V here, however, stands for Vienna Beef Hot Dogs, which could for also stand for ‘victory’ as the enduring foundation of one of Chicago’s most iconic quick bites. Viennas have found there way to restaurants across the United States (including Taste Chicago in Burbank, Calif., founded by Chicagoan Arelene Mantegna and actor-husband Joe Mantegna). That said, however, there is nothing like experiencing these dogs on their own turf. Venues like Poochie’s (below), SuperDawg, Devil Dog and other pre-cursors to the food truck endeavour to make their sandwiches best in show.


The (deep) dish on pizza

Although downtown institution Pizzaria Uno is said to be the birthplace of Chicago deep-dish pizza, there are many classic venues all over the city that deliver the goods when it comes to crunchy, cheesy, piled on perfection: Giordano’s, Carmen’s (above), and Lou Malnati’s are all winners, whether you crave hearty sausage pizzas or vegetarian varieties (most do superb spinach pies). Other local favourites include Leona’s (famous for their decadent “white” Alfredo pizzas and good thin crusts) and Home Run Inn (a South Side tradition).


Where to stay

The J. W. Marriott Chicago (151 West Adams Street, Chicago, IL 60603; 1 312 660-8200) represents the perfect marriage of a downtown Chicago “grand hotel” sensibility and 21st century boutique hotel glamour. Though it feels like it has been part of the Loop forever, it in fact was recently built into the former home of a bank. The décor, blending scarlet, ivory, cream, gold and black, ties together the lobby’s wide open spaces as well as the individual suites, which take on the character of a fine private apartment on Astor Street, one of Chicago’s most exclusive residential areas, down to the oversized bathtub. Other amenities include a nicely maintained gym, free wifi and fruit-infused water in the lobby, and loads of convertible meeting and event space.

If ultra-modern is more your style, check out and into the Radisson Blu Aqua (221 North Columbus Drive, Chicago, IL 60601, 1 ‎866 539-0036), designed by architect Jeanne Gang, which is one of the most stunning architectural attributes of Chicago’s “New East Side” skirting Lake Michigan. In addition to being home to Filini, it is also poised to become an icon in its own right with its location alone. Its block stands on the convergence of the the downtown Loop area, the Michigan Avenue Bridge, live theatres and the southern tip of the Magnificent Mile where high street and boutique shopping converge seamlessly. Walk to the opposite end of the Magnificent Mile to check out the newest branch of Topshop, the flagship Crate & Barrel and über-chic Oak Street. It is also an easy walk to the Art Institute of Chicago, which has one of America’s best collections of impressionism and mediæval art outside of New York City. •

Below left The Radisson Blu Aqua on North Columbus Drive. Below right Inside a suite at the J. W. Marriott.

 

 



 

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Elyse Glickman is US west coast editor of Lucire.