Letting tradition fly

When you look at Drape Dead Elegance’s work, you see the lavish, beautifully crafted ikat fabric blended with an international sensibility, but carefully and respectfully done. It would be easy to use the phrase east meets west, but through design, styling, and cuts, Drape Dead Elegance has managed to combine traditional craft and weaving from India, specifically the state of Odisha, with æsthetics that capture US and occidental buyers. Additionally, Drape Dead Elegance is sustainable.

Behind the label is Bay Area-based Dr Smaranika Nikki Sarangi, who hails from Odisha itself, a state that she describes as ‘culturally highly rich in handicraft and weaving.’

She adds, ‘This is a heritage that has been flourishing for many generations … I grew up watching these crafts and took inspiration from them to create my label.’

Fashion was something that had been in Sarangi’s sphere since she was a child, and even then she wanted it to be her career. However, ‘Due to the societal thought process in India, I was drawn towards a more structured and secured career in science. But, in my subconscious mind, fashion was always there. With time I moved ahead with my research work and fashion took a back seat,’ she explains.

She studied in neighbouring West Bengal, getting a Ph.D. in microbiological sciences and immunology at the University of Kalyani, and began work as a research scientist in India.

‘I was in touch with a few universities in the US as part of my day-to-day work,’ she recalls. ‘In the process, I planned to move to the US with my family to explore bigger opportunities. I worked here as a research scientist for a few years and loved my time in this country. Hence I decided to stay back.’

While in the US, Sarangi made some creative designs out of her own interest, but did not have any formal training. She would do ‘a lot of upcycling’ with her old dresses. ‘Seeing my keen interest, my husband encouraged me to study and take a formal degree in fashion. I liked the idea and joined West Valley College in Saratoga, Calif. Coming from a science background, I never had any exposure to things that are related to this craft. As I started learning deeper, I developed more and more affinity towards this subject.’

She completed her degree in apparel design and production, and considers that the start of her fashion career.

While studying, she had a vision for her own label—something not uncommon with many students—but Sarangi was clear that it would blend Indian and western cultures in everyday clothing. ‘I presented my ideas in my fashion school and received a lot of appreciation. This encouraged me to take it further and bring them to bigger platforms. Last year [2023], I got an opportunity to showcase my designs in one of the finest shows in the Bay Area, Fashion Community Week in San Francisco and Silicon Valley Fashion Week. The kind of response I received from both these prestigious shows was incredible. At this point I understood that it is time for me to take my brand to the next level.’

The name, Drape Dead Elegance, comes from Sarangi’s experimentation with draping. ‘The flowing and flattering æsthetics bring in a lot of elegance to my designs.’

Basing herself in the Bay Area makes sense for her, due to its diversity and its reputation as a technological hub. ‘To bring in creativity for a highly logical audience is a unique challenge in itself. This inspires me to go an extra mile and create some never-seen-before unique designs,’ she says.

To realize her vision, she wound up working with the village weavers in Odisha, artisans who hold a multi-generational legacy working with ikat, when she was searching for the best source of the fabric. ‘I was moved and inspired by the hard work and detailing that they do for every piece of cloth that they produce,’ she said.

Ikat is a silk–cotton fabric created by traditional dyeing, or bandha, where warp and weft threads are tie-dyed to produce the pattern.

‘Ikat is an age-old fabric which is considered highly auspicious due to its connection with Hindu deities. Once you find the right connection, it is not difficult to source the fabric. India has a lot of unique handloom and weaving techniques which contribute to the rich heritage of the country. Ikat is a hand-woven fabric which fits into my goal of sustainability in blending Indian culture and heritage to modern high fashion. Since I got a lot of exposure to this fabric from my childhood, it was an automatic choice for me.’

She also makes sure that the artisans are properly compensated for their efforts. ‘The weavers put a lot of hard work and detailing for every piece of cloth that they produce,’ notes Sarangi, but that they are traditionally hampered financially by intermediaries, whom she says hinder their financial and personal growth. ‘I decided to work directly with them and make a small difference in their day-to-day living and make my brand purpose-driven in the process. By this I can help in uplifting their lives to some extent.’

With production sorted, Sarangi gets her inspiration her next collection. ‘I take inspiration from nature and various architectural structures. I have an inherent thought process to get ideas by looking at anything and everything. So I would say there is no specific source from which I get inspired,’ she says.

Her designs intentionally blend east and west. ‘I try to have a balance between the two in my designs so that none of them lose their importance. This helps the audience have a unique experience of both the worlds which is the theme of my brand. I also want them to get a piece of art and culture through my designs.’

Sarangi also had a 1970s-inspired collection at one point, and she admits to a fascination with the era. ‘I believe the trends are inclining towards it again in the fashion worlds,’ she says.

Her next forecast is where she next wants to take the Drape Dead Elegance brand. We have already seen the garments clothe celebrities, for instance. Sarangi says, ‘I want to take my brand to rise to bigger platforms and make traditional fashion mainstream.’ With the press and catwalk appearances she has been getting in, this goal could well be achievable. •

Drape Dead Elegance can be found on Instagram at @drape.dead.elegance.

Jack Yan is founder and publisher of Lucire. Model credits, from top: Kate Valeria; Laia Albert; Dremiah La’Shae; Cierra Palmeri; Michala Downs; Alicia T.; Charlotte.

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First published in Lucire issue 44 and in the November 2021 issue of Lucire KSA