The global fashion magazine December 9, 2024
Volante
Stanley Moss finds old-world glamour in California, heading to the Langham Huntington in Pasadena and discovering sophistication and comfort, as well as a less stressful part of the state that’s more conducive to a real holiday
Photographed by Paula Sweet
The Langham Huntington has 23 acres of manicured grounds
First-time visitors flying into LAX immediately understand the meaning of the words urban sprawl. The LA basin stretches for miles in all directions, mostly flatlands with a few skyscraper clusters here and there jutting up into the vast, open Pacific sky, surrounded by mountains. By night it’s fairyland, a carpet of glittery lights similar to what the Hubble Telescope might capture looking into deep space, criss-crossed by glowing freeway arteries. By day it’s a drab landscape comprised of modern, low-slung structures scrunched together claustrophobically, comparable to the colour and texture of a fat-fried corn tortilla. You see, people’s idea of southern California is mostly founded on media illusion—promoted in movies and television, a land of special effects, outdoor advertising, new construction and veneer, where culture teeters on a foundation of actors and cars, and Hollywood is like a big bucket with a lot of money sloshing around inside. People stand at the edge of the bucket, waiting to grab handfuls of any that escapes.
Eric Sabillon
Oceanwide Plaza’s 27 floors of vertical graffiti is a downtown must-see.
There’s truth in the adage ‘Nobody walks in LA.’ Angelenos spend hours every day in their vehicles, and plan their lives around available parking spots and incessant traffic. The city appears to have taken delivery of most of the Teslas coming off the northern California assembly line. You see so many of the stainless steel Cybertrucks it’s no big deal to spot them; some sport extravagant customized paint jobs. As soon as folks succeed in the entertainment biz the first thing they do is go out and buy the coolest car they can. The pastime of stargazing is augmented by the preponderance of Rollses and Bentleys, flashy low-slung fluorescent Italian fantasies and luxury SUVs easily inventoried on the 101 and Ventura freeways. Those little puffs of smoke drifting out the driver’s window side come from legal high-octane cannabis, Californian air freshener, easily purchased at ubiquitous weed dispensaries. Life on the road.
Once you break free from the crowded highways of the LA basin—which can take up to two hours at an average land speed of plus or minus 15 mph—you discover proximity to nearby mountains, ski areas, beaches, deserts, flower-filled canyons. But if seeking out nature isn’t your thing, you will find many cultural institutions in the city centre, from the established (the Broad Museum), the specialized (the Petersen Automotive Museum), to the quirky (the Museum of Jurassic Technology). In the downtown area, there’s the abandoned Oceanwide Plaza skyscraper complex located at Figueroa and 12th Streets, whose Chinese backers evaporated, where taggers have covered 27 floors of a vacant high-rise tower with graffiti, visible from the 110 Harbor Freeway.
Years ago, Parisian friends planned a visit to California and insisted they wanted to go to Hollywood, get a look at the famous Hollywood sign. We unsuccessfully tried to disabuse them of the notion. When they saw Hollywood Boulevard from the ground they had only this to say, ‘C’est si salle!’ (‘It’s so dirty!’) The brutal reality is that not everyone lives in mansions like the Kardashians, and most neighbourhoods (like the never-ending bedroom communities surrounding Disneyland) are composed of cheap, uninspiring, tightly packed postwar houses.
All the big luxury hospitality brands and many precocious newcomers can be found in Downtown and beachside LA. But a curious service component prevails. You frequently hear some version of the words, ‘I’m not just a server—I’m also an actor [or screenwriter].’ There’s a peculiar ethos of snobbishness, stuck-upism, élitism, a reverence for crass new money. I might be exaggerating. This is the city where the term terminal hipness originated.
Airport wisdom
If you must fly into LA, consider arrival in one of the secondary airports, infinitely easier than the overcrowded and frenetic LAX and its Tom Bradley International Terminal. You’ll avoid a quarter mile walk from gate to curb. Long Beach (LGB) has a fun, recently renovated vintage main building and offers many regional commuter flights. Santa Ana (SNA) is modern, efficient and convenient to the beach cities. Hollywood Burbank (BUR) is outside the uglier traffic zone and better for those staying in the San Fernando Valley. Ontario International (ONT) sits to the northeast of LA and is a gateway to the Inland Empire. It’s also adjacent to the Pasadena area, where the Langham Huntington hotel can be found.
Old world glamour, new world location
Classic architecture and glorious views from every south-facing room
Tucked away at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains, conveniently close to DTLA (the local shorthand for Downtown Los Angeles), the Langham Huntington, Pasadena is a beacon of comfort and global sophistication set in a luxurious residential neighbourhood. A member of the Langham Hospitality Group, the group maintains a small US footprint with a presence in London, Asia and Australia, applying its brand vision to heritage structures in each location. We love this iconic, historic place with its acres of manicured grounds, a safe and peaceful destination far from the everyday Angeleno vibe. While many nearby distractions are available (see sidebar, ‘Pasadena for beginners’), you may find you have no need to leave its welcoming confines, a sanctuary rich in options for restoration and relaxation. A haven where you can let go, have fun, perhaps pretend a little as you revel in the public spaces and dining options.
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The Langham’s signature gold-leafed pink macarons, welcome card with pink wax seal
The Langham excels in classical details, light and space and a wealth of relaxing spots to linger
Newly refurbished rooms emphasize light and California colour
The Langham contains over 400 beds, but you wouldn’t know it, since the lodgings are tastefully concealed, subtly spread over two multi-storey wings of the heritage building, modern suites overlooking the Lanai Pool, duplex bungalows and free-standing private cottages. With an average stay of two nights, you’ll discover an experience-oriented sojourn, family-friendly, dog-friendly, where on-site activities range from seasonal wreath-making, themed teas, bonsai tree-making in the Japanese Garden, seasonal stagings of The Nutcracker in partnership with the Pasadena Civic Ballet in the Viennese Ballroom, and daily fitness classes. Ask the concierge about the puppy yoga class. The Langham schedules a classic afternoon tea, Thursday–Sunday 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Soon to début in the hotel lobby: a history exhibit and a retail store for a line of branded items.
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Among its public spaces, the Lanai Pool makes for an ideal rendezvous point. There’s convenient dining poolside, al fresco, and indoor, close by at the Hideaway.
The historic Picture Bridge overlooks the Lanai pool, serene pond and Japanese Garden, and leads the way to the newest jewel in the crown, the Royce Pool.
Immerse yourself in the hot tub, steps from the Lanai Pool area.
Families will appreciate a visit to the serene pond, located on the path which leads into the Japanese Garden.
Under the able stewardship of chef Jorge Delgado, the Royce Steakhouse features a world-class fine-dining menu inspired by American-style cuisine. A vast menu includes choice cuts prepared on a wood grill. There’s Tasmanian beef on the card, but you’re advised to opt for the dry aged New York prime from Colorado’s Aspen Ridge Farm, or the bone-in ribeye prime from Moyer Farm in Pennsylvania, both outstanding examples of American beef. Wine aficionados will appreciate the extensive international liste des vins.
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Chef Jorge Delgado
The Royce Steakhouse features opulent indigo blue velvet banquette seating with views of the great lawn. There’s also a discrete private dining space behind frosty glass. A table seating up to 12 can be reserved in the white wine cellar just off the restaurant entrance.
Don’t miss the mouth-watering selection of international red wines on display in the second above ground cellar, facing the white wines.
Panoramic view of the Royce kitchen in action.
Chef Delgado’s culinary artistry feasts both the palate and the eyes.
You can also discover fresh seafood specialties from the wood-fired grill.
Chef Delgado and team pose outside the white wine above-ground cellar at the entrance to the Royce Steakhouse.
The Royce Pool, the newest jewel in the Langham crown, opened in mid-2024. In addition to pool loungers, a limited number of brilliant state-of-the-art cabanas are available for daily booking. Included you’ll find a refrigerator stocked with soft drinks, bottled water, and coconut water, seasonal fruit bowl, sunscreen, oshibori towels, television, and privacy curtains. It’s like sunning in an exclusive enclave on the French Riviera, and recollects the classic glamour of 1930s Hollywood lifestyle. Cabanas are priced at US$350 per day (weekends and holidays) or $250 (weekdays) for hotel guests. Here’s a 360-degree view.
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The Langham Club, a lofty island in the sky, is reserved for Club level guests, but also allows daily access, recommended for single business travellers, families and couples. Comfortable seating accented by ongoing food and beverage service, isolation, privacy, and a feeling of real exclusivity.
A day pass for the Asian-inspired Chuan Spa will transport you to a parallel universe of wellness. It’s an otherworldly oasis of peacefulness and rejuvenation.
The Terrace and Tap Room feature sumptuous outside porch lounging and a crowd-pleasing menu card.
The Lobby Lounge, a popular setting for meetings and important life events.
With its 23 acres of grounds, you will find the Langham a family-friendly destination.
Stanley Moss is travel editor of Lucire.
Pasadena for beginners
Christmas Tree Lane: since 1920, an 0·7-mile boulevard of deodar cedar trees on Santa Rosa Avenue in Altadena, lit annually as a Christmas holiday display. This year: December 7, 2024–January 7, 2025, 5.30 p.m.–midnight.
For years the most romantic date in town: bittersweet hot fudge sundae at Twohey’s, US$11·95.
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