A haven in Bangkok

After a long journey taking up thousands of kilometres, one of the best oases you can have is to find yourself among the kindness of the Thai people. And one haven that we’ve discovered is the So/ Bangkok, giving the traveller not just the amenities of a world-class spa and a relaxing infinity pool, but those special design touches that modern travellers desire.

It’s not just the Instagram generation demanding visual appeal: most of us are, in the 2020s, bored of same-again hotel décor that doesn’t express the place you’ve just spent thousands of dollars of airfares getting to. So/—the virgule is part of the official name, signalling that it is “designer”—recognizes this, and builds it in to its experiences from the start.

Long before checking in, they send you a questionnaire, informing you that their suites are themed along natural elements: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth, the five that make up the basis of east and southeast Asian culture and science. You could choose what theme you’d feel at home with, and So/ accommodates.

The check-in experience expresses the kindness that one associates with Thailand, with a team that treats you respectfully, with no request or question too trivial. A VIP check-in on the ninth floor takes you away from the hustle of the ground level, surrounded by comfort with complimentary drinks, as a So/ team member explains the rooms and the amenities. The Club Signature lounge on the 25th floor, designed by Christian Lacroix, not only has the French designer’s colourful touches, but stunning views of the Bangkok skyline. The main dining space is called Red Oven, and brings the world’s cuisine to one spot, be it western or Asian. But after flying in from Stockholm via Dubai, we wanted to see the suites.

What strikes you on entry are the floor-to-ceiling windows, a dedicated bathroom area with large bathtub and separate rain shower—and that’s in the So/ Cozy suites, with between 65 m² and 73 m² floor area. Go even further up the line to one-bedroom and fancier accommodation and you can even experience up to 233 m² in a duplex suite, complete with butler’s pantry.

The Ytsara amenities in the bathroom help with having indulgent baths, while the climate control, including air conditioning, allow for perfect conditions, whether you choose to stay in your room—which we did for the entirety of day one—or for sleeping. Never mind the humidity outside, it’s not an issue inside on the 24th floor where we were.

The wood suites have, expectedly, wood-look floors, while our earth suites have a blue theme and silhouettes of wildlife, the work of Lacroix again, and Thai designers Smith Obayawat and Pongthep Sagulku.

The private bar is complimentary as far as the non-alcoholic items are concerned, so one need not worry about drinking all the water—a must in hot Thai weather.

A large flat-screen TV has dozens of channels in multiple languages: Thai and English, of course, but we also found Arabic, French, Italian, German, Mandarin, Korean, Japanese, and more. Casting from devices is also remarkably easy, and the wifi performed faultlessly. Electric controls for the curtains by the bed mean you don’t need to bother getting up—just relax and be rid of that jet lag.

We didn’t try the l’Or espresso machine since neither of us drink coffee. We were more impressed by the city views, looking across other parts of Bangkok, and spotting the traffic below.

Red Oven, the main dining area, impresses even further as the windows to the skyline reach up two storeys in height, while the buffet allows you to make up the perfect meal. Those fussy with occidental tastes can choose the pasta and cheeses sourced from different countries; Asian palates are more than capably catered for. Spring rolls and fresh cuts of meat—why not? Red Oven would prove to be a godsend on many occasions, as it’s the breakfast spot as well, while à la carte lunches tempt you to stay in-house on the rainy days of summer.

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Above, from top: Club Signature, designed by Christian Lacroix. Thai food selection at Red Oven. Choice of cheeses at Red Oven. Pasta kitchen at Red Oven. Buffet dinner at Red Oven. Poolside on a cloudy day.

There’s an outside area where you can enjoy the warmth and air, as well as marvel at the remarkable pace at which the Thai capital has changed, with construction sites and new buildings in the neighbourhood. Since Lucire began covering Thailand in 2001, we’ve watched this city become more sophisticated with each visit.

The Club Signature lounge was quiet during the days, and you are so spoiled by the architecture that Lacroix’s work can almost be missed if you don’t look up to appreciate it. Meanwhile, the in-house spa gives a 90-minute Serenity of Five Elements treatment that proved deeply relaxing, especially after a transcontinental flight. Using vibrations on the body’s muscles helped relieve tension, as did the luxury oils that were applied. You walk out feeling refreshed, almost as if you had a very good night’s sleep. So/ claims to have the best luxury spa in Bangkok. We saw nothing that would dispel that claim.

Rain did prevent going poolside on the 10th floor at the infinity pool, and any pool parties that the hotel would otherwise have run.

When energy levels and weather allow, So/ is located right across from Lumphini Park, so despite the bustle of Bangkok streets, there is greenery and nature to be around.

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Indulgence at the So/ Spa on the 11th floor.

Giant monitor lizards measuring 1 m to 3 m frequent the park and, as far as we could tell, tolerate the humans and share the space. The Sathon neighbourhood is, in many ways, a condensed version of Bangkok itself, with night markets, a red light area off Si Lom Road, a department store, and plenty of eateries for authentic Thai cuisine—or even some chrysanthemum tea to get some relief from the fancy hotel food. Tuktuk drivers can get you places cheaply for the added tourist experience.

The Si Lom Complex shopping mall had very pleasant food—the Baan Ying restaurant, laying claim to ‘original Siam cuisine’ had quick, delicious fare that was right for our tastes, while Asia Books, in the same complex, is a gold mine for the bibliophile, with a better selection of English titles than most occidental bookshops.

During the king’s birthday commemorations, a large choir performed live on Si Lom Road, with police guiding pedestrians around the singers, all while the red light bars did their business across the road.

We were impressed by the beauty of a golden Buddha statue on Si Lom Road, and while the Baan Ying meal felt substantial at the time, it was back to the Red Oven for a fuller dinner.

At departure time, the So/ team will even negotiate a flat fee with the taxi driver for the half-hour journey back to Suvarnabhumi Airport, ensuring no surprises and a continuation of their friendly, accommodating and warm-hearted hospitality. Not that we were in a hurry to return—So/ Bangkok had proved to be a healing and uplifting stop on our international journey. •

Visit So/ Bangkok’s website here.

Jack Yan is founder and publisher of Lucire. Amanda Satterthwaite is a writer and photographer for Lucire.

Above, from top: Lumphini Park. Sharing the park with a giant monitor lizard. Riding in a tuk-tuk. Selection of books at Asia Books. A Buddha statue on Si Lom Road.

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