Celebration of a rich tapestry

Designer Paola Sartirio showed a collection called African’s Life at an event earlier this year at the Rome Fashionpath with director of photography and photographer Paolo Ponsillo at the Cromosoma Art Studio, noting that it pays tribute to the spirit, colours and traditions of the many cultures on the continent. Fittingly, the designs employ recycled materials.

Sartirio said she wanted the designs to evoke belonging and freedom, and used floral patterns and artisanal craftsmanship to achieve them.

It was a collection where Sartirio had to tread very carefully, lest she be accused of cultural appropriation, or stereotyping ‘Africa’ into a single, homogeneous idea. Fortunately, she managed to walk this very fine line, which she says she took very seriously.

‘I read African newspapers, listened to stories, studied symbols and rituals to build a cultural bridge based on respect. Every element was carefully selected to acknowledge and honour its origins.’ she says. ‘My intent is not to imitate but to pay homage to create something born of my own African-inspired vision.’

It’s evident that she was particularly passionate about reflecting the continent’s cultures accurately.

‘It is impossible to speak of Africa as though it were a single, homogeneous entity. Africa is vast and profoundly diverse: each country, each region, even each villlage, harbours its own culture, æsthetic, and symbolism. When I speak of the “many Africas”, I refer precisely to this rich tapestry,’ she explains.

‘For African’s Life, I studied and drew inspiration from a variety of regions: from the bold geometric patterns of west African wax prints (such as those from Nigeria, Ghana, and Senegal), to the delicate embroidery of Tuareg and Berber communities in the north, to the narrative motifs of east African kitenge fabrics. One of the most fascinating influences came from South Africa, where contemporary fashion powerfully intertwines with Zulu and Xhosa traditions. My work is a mosaïc: each piece tells a story I have tried to listen to with both respect and gratitude.’

Sartirio references a book she read, How to Write about Africa, bu Binyavanga Wainaina, where the author notes how African influences on global culture are often overlooked or unacknowledged. ‘It is not my ambition to resolve this complex issue through my work, but rather to gently assert that what appears to be African often truly is—and more frequently, that which does not appear so may have African roots.’

She says the west often misunderstands the continent. ‘One of the greatest misconceptions is the tendency to reduce Africa to a single narrative usually one of poverty, folklore, or exoticism. But Africa is far more than that: it is innovation, art, resilience, and cultural avant-garde. It is also a powerful stylistic force, increasingly asserting itself on the global stage.

‘I believe the most respectful way to tell African stories is to listen to them directly. My dream would have been to collaborate with local artists, artisans, and designers. In their absence, I turned to African authors, making it a priority to elevate internal voices rather than interpreting from the outside. Fashion can be a powerful medium for raising awareness, but only if it is built on genuine relationships, deep research, and recognition of sources. Beauty always emerges from encounters, and the exchange between cultures is not about appropriation, but about the evolution of time.’

It’s quite the journey for the Ligurian designer who started her label in 2018, though she had been interested in fashion since she was four years old when she dressed up in her mother’s clothes.

She says she was ‘drawn not only to the æsthetics of garments but also to their power to convey identity and culture.’

Sartirio originally was educated in art but took up specialized courses in design and tailoring at IED in Rome. She then collaborated with ‘small artisan ateliers’ in her home region. ‘These experiences shaped my creative vision, instilling in me a deep appreciation for detail, quality, and the cultural roots of each creation.’

Her label merges ‘Italian craftsmanship with international æsthetic and cultural influences, reinterpreted through an ethical and contemporary lens, often using reclaimed objects and fabrics.’ This drives her overall look, one that blends structured silhouettes with ethnic or artisanal elements, though her collections resist categorization. Common to all her collections is their attention to detail, conscious use of materials, and a celebration of identity and difference.

Being Rome-based, Sartirio says the capital ‘has a more artistic and contemplative soul compared to Milan’s frenetic dynamism. It’s a city where fashion often engages in a dialogue with history, art, and traditional craftsmanship. In Rome, I feel freer to experiment, whereas Milan is ideal for engaging with the industry and international trends.’

Each collection has a varied inspiration. She says, ‘Every collection begins with a journey, a personal encounter, or a social or artistic reflection. Inspiration can stem from a traditional fabric, a ceremony, a work of art, or a personal story. I have no interest in repeating myself; I aim to tell something authentic and relevant with each collection. I love for each one to have its own voice and narrative strength.’ African’s Life certainly fulfils these ideals, and has been done respectfully, and with respect shown to the continent’s many cultures and voices. We hope it generates continued dialogue and the acknowledgement of Africa as an important driver of global culture in the 21st century. •

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