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Pringle subsequently used fur to trim dresses,
Cary-Williams painted it silver and Alistair Carr made it sporty.
St Martins MA graduate, Erik Frenken,
adorned a vivid turquoise fabric with tarnished silver disks and
Saga fox and mink to produce a rich blouson jacket in a collection
that went on to claim the Lancôme Design Award for Innovation.
Rafael Lopez disappointed with a meagre collection
in which the ill-considered use of fox tails suggested that a backstage
game of pin the tail on the model had just taken place. Fortunately,
House of Jazz hit the right note with a white fox fur coat and a
fake snow finalé that was pure Hollywood, whilst accessories
designers Lara Bohnic and Stuart Vevers shored up rave reviews with
Saga white fox clutches and mink tassle bags respectively. Rumour
has it that the latter have found an ardent fan in the bootylicious
Beyoncé Knowles.
Closing the week, Julien Macdonald sent out a
gloriously brash retinue of high-maintenance ladies dressed to the
nines in fox shrugs, mink bombers, pussy cat bows and pencil skirts.
Their Swarovski crystal-studded talons flashed under the disco lights
and a pounding soundtrack of Britney, Donna Summer and the Scissor
Sisters had the audience clapping and whooping throughout.
As she presented the Harrod’s Design Initiative
award at the St Martin’s MA show,
British Vogue’s fashion director Lucinda Chambers announced
that ‘London is the definitive place to find fresh young talent.’
It is a shame then that what was a week of many delights was marred
by diminished attendance figures amongst the fashion press and buyers
and by rumours that Macdonald may add his name to a long list British
designers who have defected to the more lucrative fashion capitals
of New York, Paris and Milano.
Blame has been laid at the feet of both the government
and the British Fashion Council for failing to provide adequate
support and they would be wise to pay heed. (One might add the accreditation
body’s failure to acknowledge dot coms such as Lucire.—Editor)
Talent is nothing if it is not nurtured and if steps are not taken
to rectify matters we will lose that which makes us unique. •
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LEFT COLUMN, TOP AND
TOP LEFT: Rafael Lopez. TOP RIGHT:
House of Jazz. REMAINING PHOTOGRAPHS:
Julien Macdonald.
It is a shame then that what
was a week of many delights was marred by diminished attendance
figures amongst the fashion press and buyers
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