‘I argue a lot with myself!’ she said. ‘To be a good designer, you need to understand both [management and design]. Prioritizing is the best way to juggle the two.’
   The design process itself is theme-based. ‘I love drawing inspiration from themes and designing with them in mind. It has a discipline; I have always worked that way, so it comes very naturally.’
   Each one of the collections—Jets White Label, the top brand; Jets Black Label, competing with Eres, La Perla Studio, Melissa Odabash and Shan; and Jets Blue Label, on the level of Vix

‘Retro trends are also a backlash to technology and progression: the more the world progresses, the more people seek safety in what they know’

and Tigerlily—has an individual theme. White has Hollywood Sirens, an appropriate approach to the premium positioning; others have more ethnic influences. There is a retro feel, which Allen says was ‘kickstarted at the beginning of the millennium, with everyone looking back retrospectively over the last century.
   ‘The retro trend is still fuelled by films and culture such as Down with Love and large retrospective exhibitions in Europe and the US. Retro trends are also a backlash to technology and progression: the more the world progresses, the more people seek safety in what they know,’ she said.
   The placement print—this season a giant butterfly—has been a Jets signature, according to Allen, that has been there since Jets’ relaunch.
   The Jets brand, approaching its 20th anniversary, was axed by its parent company, Seafolly, in the late 1990s as part of a consolidation. Allen resurrected it in 2001 as part of the Sanvero company, which she owns with Adrian Allen. They have taken no time—though a lot of hard work—to establish Jets as the premium label in the country. Novel features such as moulded seamless cups, titanium underwires and Tactel Lycra microfibre will appear in future collections.
   Seafolly remains a leading manufacturer and claims top-selling status at Selfridges, but the two compete in different market strata.
   Allen herself has B.Des. in fashion and textiles, with first-class honours, and completed a postgraduate course at the Istituto Marangoni in Milano, which goes some way in explaining how she successfully appeals to the European buyer.
   Jets’ premium ethos and marketing efforts are expected to keep the brand in the high end of the market-place: there is no sign of the star dimming. Some things are better the second time around; Jets is no exception. •

Jack Yan is founding publisher of Lucire. The author wishes to thank Jane Aliband and Nicole Henrikson for their assistance on this article.

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MAIN PHOTOGRAPH: Jets Black Label Earthly Separates pure cotton shirt with tie detail at neck and sleeves and banded tie pant in geranium. ABOVE, FROM TOP: Jets Black Label Kauai reversible banded tie-front halter in smoke–aqua. Jets Black Label Maldives frangipani halter one-piece with shelf bra in white.