OF the oddest things I’ve observed with each autumn– winter
collection at Barcelona is that the greatest genius comes from big
firms and established labels. While many of Barcelona’s independents
rocked, one of the best collections was from one of the biggest
labels in the country, at the end of this season of Pasarela Gaudí.
TCN’s Toton Comella had her roots in undergarments
and still demonstrated her skills there with feminine designs in
lilac and red, and her trademark grey. Coats, scarves, jackets,
dresses and skirts complemented the undergarments with similarly
sombre shades. Eveningwear featured tulle and lace, but stayed monochromatic.
Konrad Muhr proved more adventurous with
a collection that mixed, for instance, cotton with copper lacquer.
Mohair was mixed with 3D nylon. The
inspiration has come from streetwear, with prints and logos emblazoned
on T-shirt fronts. He kept his usual psychedelic prints, but contrasted
them this season with simpler graphics. They offered a more convincing
take on street styles, until you spotted more luxurious touches
such as Muhr’s chain jewellery, and skirts and trousers with silk
Josep Font had shimmery fabrics in gold,
black, blue and grey, but before you think of millennium-era ball
gowns, we note that he had plenty of Iberian flair to the designs.
Prints and patterns gave Font’s regal reflective fabrics a more
ornamented feel. The high collars extended to menswear, where Font
continued thinking royally, though for men the ornameted fabrics
were not present. Trench coats and winter coats featured strongly,
as did velvet.
The riding jacket was the theme at Lydia Delgado,
who accessorized with jewellery and stones on her clothes. Pleating
was a feature, but Delgado went with the overall trend of Barcelona
with red and black, the former generally being an offset, minor
colour. Greys and browns rounded off the colour palette. There were
more solid colours, with Delgado preferring to focus on the cut
rather than dazzling the audience with patterns and prints. Skirts
were draped, and generally cut low. She may have been known as a
‘Mediterranean Chanel’, and what she sent down was stunning, though
being the third show with hints of equestrianism, the schedule was
not in her favour.
Venezuelan-born Hannibal Laguna showed
one of the outstanding collections of the week. His use of jewellery
treaded that fine line between ornamentation and simplicity; one
silver dress (in the ‘Trends’ section of this magazine) had stones
that had a waterfall effect. It’s perhaps not surprising, as Laguna
has had his own line of jewellery for four years, in association
with Maria Pérez CB. In essence, we
thought this was the most feminine and glamorous collection of the
week, with gowns galore and plenty of reflective fabrics.
TOP ROW: TCN.
MIDDLE ROW: Konrad Muhr, Josep Font.
ABOVE LEFT: Hannibal Laguna. ABOVE
RIGHT: Joaquim Verdú.
the full story with more images from Joma García i
Gisbert in the June 2005 issue of Lucire.
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