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FashionLucire fall-winter 2004

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Bahar Korçan Istanbul

IN THE PROGRAMME NOTES for her fall 2004 collection presentation at Bryant Park, Bahar Korçan asks us to embrace the ‘rootless-ness’ that is often so prevalent in fashion, as well as in our lives. We should ‘cling to it, hold on’ because when we are rooted to any one place, ‘you are still and small, [and] don’t belong.’ This is a philosophy that she practises in the process of creating her designs. Her collections, since 1992, have been inspired by the ‘thousands of stories hidden under every stone [she] step on [in Istanbul and] the magic within this city and Turkey.’ But at the same time, she designs ‘for women all over the world.’ As such, one is able to discern the cultural references of her native land but still embrace the international flavour of the overall collection.
   A harmonious coming together of skill, fine textures and technology, Ms Korçan sent down her runway designs that were at once beautiful, timeless creations a woman would be proud to have in her wardrobe for many seasons over. The severity of her pitch black cashmere coats was broken up by the addition of tulle hems. She adorned various silk dresses with Antep lace insets; and won me over with designs that were feminine but made a strong statement about her vision. Stand-out pieces (and personal favourites) include her black wool beaded dress paired with a cashmere coat with tulle hem, her soft pink silk skirt (with tulle and white wool cardigan under a short powder pink cashmere coat, a lovely ecru wool slip dress under a equally lovely powder pink jacquard leaf print coat and her ecru mini dress with front tulle detailing. For evening, her designs were reminiscent of the strong design vision Ralph Rucci imbues into his own designs. I loved her long cream monk coats with decorative pleating on the sleeves and voile detailing on the neck. Her hand-woven silk gowns had the right amount of everything to make them stand out from the rest of the collection. She never crossed the line in doing too much to any one design. She always knew when she had done her best and when to let go. That is a good thing.
   Based in Turkey, Ms Korçan’s collection is sold in over 170 retail and specialty stores around the world. She was the first Turkish designer to win the Du Pont Winter 2000–1 Premier Vision competition in Paris, and has exhibited in cities such as Düsseldorf and New York.

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Ms Korçan sent down her runway designs that were at once beautiful, timeless creations a woman would be proud to have in her wardrobe for many seasons over

 

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